Veneer needed for SDA 2B's

ajcllc
ajcllc Posts: 138
edited November 2008 in Vintage Speakers
I have a pair of oiled oak SDA 2B's that need veneer on the top of one of them because of water damage that caused bubbling. Does anyone know of a close match to the original veneer that you've had success with and where it can be purchased? Thanks.
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited November 2008
    I'm also just entering into this project due to a couple of dings and scratches on one speaker, but my 2B's are walnut veneer.

    I'll be watching the post if anyone else has gone through this, and I will share what I find here too. I was going to start out with a google search and also see what's available at the local home centers first.

    I have a feeling that doing the entire tops and top edges of both speakers will be necessary for them to look right, and I might get away with not doing the bottom edges as they are far enough away and not as noticable.

    As a side note, I was hoping to be able to remove the tops like you can on the SRS 1's and 2's, but I think my 2B's at hot melt glued and stapled instead of bolted on.
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  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited November 2008
    I would re-do the entire cabinets on any speaker cabinet so everything looks beautiful and it will be impossible to make a perfect match by just doing a top or side. The pay off will be huge once project is completed. Here is a good place to start.
    http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/index.html
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  • HB27
    HB27 Posts: 1,518
    edited November 2008
    Pics would help in identifying your veneer. It's hard to guess what you need without pics.
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  • ajcllc
    ajcllc Posts: 138
    edited November 2008
    Here is a picture:
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  • strider
    strider Posts: 2,568
    edited November 2008
    I think it's going to be pretty difficult to match the finish of a +/- 20 year old piece of veneer to a new one. I'd consider doing top and bottom on both speakers to make sure it matches. I've bought veneer from VeneerSupplies.com, very good selection and service. They've also got a companion site with tons of info, beginning level and up, called joewoodworker.com. When I replace my end caps I'm most likely going to use either 3/4" mdf or 2 pieces of 1/2" and use the original caps as a guide.
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  • HB27
    HB27 Posts: 1,518
    edited November 2008
    Looks like oiled oak to me. You're lucky. It's probably the easiest to match. Use the joewoodworker.com link above and send him the pics. They're great on customer service and I'll bet they have everything you need to refinish these for a good cheap price.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    edited November 2008
    When I inquired at Polk about the finish used on the SDA's, I was told it's lacquer.
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited November 2008
    What about the stain?

    Also looks like oak to me.
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  • ajcllc
    ajcllc Posts: 138
    edited November 2008
    Joe the woodworker is telling me it is red oak.
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  • John30_30
    John30_30 Posts: 1,024
    edited November 2008
    That jpeg looks like a satin or low-gloss finish, which would totally make sense if it's lacquer. Oil is easiest to mix to match, apply, and touch-up but it will age differently from lacquer. Typically, lacquer yellows with age and oil will maybe go browner or stay the same. Urethane and varnish stay clear usually.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited November 2008
    A little tip I've picked up through the years is....if you can match up the species and grain pattern with a new piece of veneer,after it's glued on and the edges trimmed,carefully,use a refinisher over the whole cabinet. The glop will color the new panel to match the rest pretty well. Another possibility would be to "ebonize" the cases with either black stain & clear coat or thinned down black enamel. Careful not to develop too much thickness or the wood's grain won't show through anymore!;)Geoff
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