Crossover to driver wire ?'s

Jeff Beaird
Jeff Beaird Posts: 217
edited October 2008 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
O.K. here it goes... I see(hear) Audiojunkies spending thousands of dollars on super high tech stuff(DAC's, Speaker wires, connectors, etc.) but I see hardly any info or talk about improving the wires from the crossovers to the actual speaker drivers..? WHY..?
I think this would be a very weak link in the chain. I spend $2000 to get the audio signal to the speaker and let a 10 cent wire carry the signal the rest of the way?
I open up these old Polks (Monitor 4's, 5's, 7's and 12's)and the wires have to be 22 ga. wires.
What the hell..?????????

Please explain....:eek:
Thanks, Jeff...
Post edited by Jeff Beaird on

Comments

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited October 2008
    There's plenty of talk of upgrading drivers, mostly from the SL2000 to the RD0-194.

    As for internal wiring, I use Neotech solid core 16-18 ga on the highs, and 14 ga on the lows.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Jeff Beaird
    Jeff Beaird Posts: 217
    edited October 2008
    Face wrote: »
    There's plenty of talk of upgrading drivers, mostly from the SL2000 to the RD0-194.

    As for internal wiring, I use Neotech solid core 16-18 ga on the highs, and 14 ga on the lows.

    Copper or Silver? Nevermind...
    Thanks, Jeff...
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited October 2008
    Silver if I'm looking for more highs, and if it's in the budget.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited October 2008
    I build speakers, so I take this question seriously.

    My speakers are soldered internally. You'll lose signal in the connections more than the wires themselves. Sometimes I'll solder crimp connectors to the wire for the tweeter, but only on a stingy model where the tweeter might blow.

    I tend to go with 14 gauge internally, unless it's a very heavy load(1 ohm subs) or very high power(300+ watts per driver)