SDA 2b's

shanedrew
shanedrew Posts: 84
edited July 2008 in Vintage Speakers
Hello,

Looking for a blade pin style sda cable for SDA 2B's. I plan on doing upgrades (crossovers tweeters & etc.) to these later. Got them today and looking to use these stock for now. Thanks for any help!

Aloha,

Shane
Post edited by shanedrew on
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited July 2008
    Normally, I would suggest that you insert the bare end of a single speaker cable into the pin hole in each speaker, it will give you the SDA effect. But, since you're using monoblocks, that changes everything. Most people make their own cables.

    Or you can just do what I recently did. I upgraded the crossovers, tweeters, and binding posts on my studio 2B's(same as yours). I installed the RDO-198 tweeter, Dayton 1% caps, upgraded the stock bindings posts, and also added a second pair of binding posts in place of the pin/blade connection.

    Here's the schematic you'll need for the "TL" upgrade. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26710&d=1186358580

    Btw, beautiful gear! I'm using a MC-2105 and MX-115 with my SDA-2B's, and a MX-119, MC-7270, and MC-126 in my other rig.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • candyliquor35m
    candyliquor35m Posts: 2,267
    edited July 2008
    Here's what I use:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?p=394328#post394328

    and again make sure your monoblocks are common ground or you'll have a early 4th of july.

    Once you get to listen to them, you'll probably realize they don't need anything done to them including the crossovers and the tweeters.
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  • MillerLiteScott
    MillerLiteScott Posts: 2,561
    edited July 2008
    Shanedrew,

    Please do not consider using romex as an interconnect. If I was more computer savy I would link the threads on the 2B/4.1TL up grade using Sonicaps and Mills resistors and also the Avel Isolation transformer application for an interconnect when using mono block amps. Just search for those in the vintage an DIY section and you will find everything you will need to know to make those 2B's an even better speaker.

    Congrats and nice gear. Don't F it up with romex.
    I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    edited July 2008
    Polk no longer sells the pin/blade cable, but that really doesn't matter because you are running mono blocks and really need the AI-1 cable, which is even harder to find. You're going to have to make your own AI-1 and pin/blade cable. Use the search function, there's plenty of how to info here.

    Another option, IF you can tie the negative outputs of your amps together, you'll just need to make a pin/blade cable.

    Edit....Scott types faster...LOL

    I agree 100% with Scott. Do NOT use Romex. In fact, anything that candya$$ suggests to you, IGNORE it completely.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • shanedrew
    shanedrew Posts: 84
    edited July 2008
    Thanks for all the responses! 2B's look pretty next to the Mac's. For now I will use McIntosh new Integrated with the new TM-2 module. The first Mac receiver with autoformers. I will eventually hook this up with a Naim Supernait, Superline, Linn lp-12, CD5X and 1 Hi-cap at my home. I owned the sda 1.2tl's in 1990 and wanted to revisit with the 2b's.
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  • shanedrew
    shanedrew Posts: 84
    edited July 2008
    new pic
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  • PolkClyde
    PolkClyde Posts: 662
    edited July 2008
    F1nut wrote: »
    Polk no longer sells the pin/blade cable, but that really doesn't matter because you are running mono blocks and really need the AI-1 cable, which is even harder to find. You're going to have to make your own AI-1 and pin/blade cable. Use the search function, there's plenty of how to info here.

    Another option, IF you can tie the negative outputs of your amps together, you'll just need to make a pin/blade cable.

    Edit....Scott types faster...LOL

    I agree 100% with Scott. Do NOT use Romex. In fact, anything that candya$$ suggests to you, IGNORE it completely.


    I just called Polk audio out of baltimore and they have a guy there that makes that cable
    PolkAudioClyde
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    edited July 2008
    They offer the blade/blade cable, not the pin/blade.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,204
    edited July 2008
    candyliquor35m wrote: »
    Here's what I use:
    and again make sure your monoblocks are common ground or you'll have a early 4th of july.

    No such thing as "common ground" mono blocs. In some designs (NOT Bridged mono blocs) the negative terminal of each amp can be "tied" (connected) together to form a common ground path. Check with the amp manufacturer first.
    candyliquor35m wrote: »
    Once you get to listen to them, you'll probably realize they don't need anything done to them including the crossovers and the tweeters.

    Again this statement is in the minority here. If nothing else the new RD0 tweeter is a huge improvement if you find is grating, shrill and annoying like about 85-90% of CP members do. X-over upgrade is a nice benefit but not entirely necessary if one doesn't have the skill or want to spend the funds.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • PolkClyde
    PolkClyde Posts: 662
    edited July 2008
    heiney9 wrote: »
    No such thing as "common ground" mono blocs. In some designs (NOT Bridged mono blocs) the negative terminal of each amp can be "tied" (connected) together to form a common ground path. Check with the amp manufacturer first.


    There's no such thing as common ground mono blocs? I thought the Carver silver 7t's mono blocs were common ground. Do anyone have any Info on that.
    PolkAudioClyde
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    edited July 2008
    By their very nature, being two separate amps, each in it's own chassis, they can not be common ground. Hence the name, mono block. However, as noted by H9, some can have their negative outputs tied together.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,341
    edited July 2008
    Shane, the Mac rack is awesome! Very nice! F1 and some others have done the 4.1 TL upgrade to that crossover with super results. Forum member Stew did it, look here. Those 2b's will really sing nice with the upgrade to the tweeters and crossover.

    Like the guys said, you will need an A-1 Transformer to use the monoblocks. Or, strap the negative terminals together. Check with Mac before you do this.
    Carl

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  • PolkClyde
    PolkClyde Posts: 662
    edited July 2008
    Face wrote: »
    Normally, I would suggest that you insert the bare end of a single speaker cable into the pin hole in each speaker, it will give you the SDA effect. But, since you're using monoblocks, that changes everything. Most people make their own cables.

    Or you can just do what I recently did. I upgraded the crossovers, tweeters, and binding posts on my studio 2B's(same as yours). I installed the RDO-198 tweeter, Dayton 1% caps, upgraded the stock bindings posts, and also added a second pair of binding posts in place of the pin/blade connection.

    Here's the schematic you'll need for the "TL" upgrade. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=26710&d=1186358580

    Btw, beautiful gear! I'm using a MC-2105 and MX-115 with my SDA-2B's, and a MX-119, MC-7270, and MC-126 in my other rig.


    I was told that you shouldn't run these two together because of the pin/interconnect cable. mono blocks are not common ground amps. BUT I have had my SDA's 2.1 You know the big boys with the silver dome tweeters for years with my carver silver 7 t mono blocks.I have not had any problems. I had to put my amp in the shop years ago(once) and since then it haven't miss a beat. Can anyone give me some advice concerning this.
    PolkAudioClyde
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited July 2008
    Contact McIntosh and ask if their grounds can be strapped together.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    edited July 2008
    PolkClyde wrote: »
    I was told that you shouldn't run these two together because of the pin/interconnect cable. mono blocks are not common ground amps. BUT I have had my SDA's 2.1 You know the big boys with the silver dome tweeters for years with my carver silver 7 t mono blocks.I have not had any problems. I had to put my amp in the shop years ago(once) and since then it haven't miss a beat. Can anyone give me some advice concerning this.

    You mean 1.2's, not 2.1's.

    Anyway, RT1 and I talked about your running the 1.2's like that for the last 18 years and I have a question. Do you ever turn up the volume?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • PolkClyde
    PolkClyde Posts: 662
    edited July 2008
    F1nut wrote: »
    You mean 1.2's, not 2.1's.

    Anyway, RT1 and I talked about your running the 1.2's like that for the last 18 years and I have a question. Do you ever turn up the volume?

    I spoke to you before didn't even realize it (in one of my other post I'm speaking to you if though it was the first time. anyway nice chatting with you and thanks.)....... very seldom do I turn up the volume but back in the ninties I use to crank it up listening to Nirvana then my tweeters would stop working until I down it down. Does these speakers have some kind of tweeter protection circuit or something.That use to bother me.I couldn't turn it up for too long without the tweeters shuting down. but everything is pretty much in working order...... well I think.it sounds ok. How do I combine the two nagatives out put. are there a speciall wire?

    Thanks again
    PolkAudioClyde
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  • Boywonder
    Boywonder Posts: 225
    edited July 2008
    PolkClyde: If you have a multimeter handy, check for continuity between the negative speaker terminal and chassis of one of your amps. If the negative speaker terminal is tied to chassis ground (they usually are), then you can safely tie the negative terminals together with a wire. Another test you can do is plug both amps into the same 110V receptacle and check for continuity between each amps negative terminal (this assumes the amps have grounded three prong plugs). If you get continuity, the negative speaker terminals are already tied together through the ground conductor of the power cords and there is no need for a wire between them.

    If you do not get continuity between the negative speaker terminal and chassis ground, the speaker terminals are floating; In this case I would call the amp mfr.
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