Using Coaxial RG-6 for IC's?

WilliamM2

ShinAce wrote: »

If I have a wire that is a million feet long connected to ground at one end, the entire length is now a ground connection.

Right, but if the conducter in the middle is still connected to ground at both ends, what is the point of only connecting the shield at one end? Just something I was curious about.

jakelm

WilliamM2 wrote: »

Right, but if the conducter in the middle is still connected to ground at both ends, what is the point of only connecting the shield at one end? Just something I was curious about.

Connecting the conducter at both ends and connecting the shield at one end is the same thing..

Its all grounded.

ShinAce

jakelm wrote: »

Oh yeah, but what if its 1,000,001 feet??

I'll have to setup a double blind test to find out. I'll get back to you in about 6 months.

jakelm

ShinAce wrote: »

I'll have to setup a double blind test to find out. I'll get back to you in about 6 months.

and....stretch it out and measure both ends...

get back to me with the findings...

ShinAce

In terms of construction, leaving the braid 'virgin' on one end provides better coverage. In reality, you can strip the end back about 2 inches to expose the wire you need and still have full coverage.

In terms of electricity, having the shield connect to ground at a single point is correct grounding. This avoids ground loops.

I'll test the 1 million foot wire facing east-west and then north-south to see if astrology/astronomy has an effect on audio.

Lowell_M

This seems to be a long thread, but for what it's worth... I used RG6 through my walls in my basement HT remodel for my sub connection and it works great.

jakelm

Just an update. Parts came in and finished with my first set of IC cables. The process went fairly easy. A few snags along the way. I didnt realise that I was going to want to post pics and forget to take pics of the process.

The first snag was, soldering. If you heat the center pin, on the connects for too long, while soldering the +ive wire on the coaxial, you can actually melt the plastic gasket, that seperates the center pin with the gound casing. Whish I ruined one connect. The gasket got too hot and melted to a point to where the center pin fell off center. Lesson learned.

The second snag was the ground and the coaxial cable. I folded the ground back on itself and sat it inside the crimp on the connector. Tried to crimp it as well as I can, hoping to be tight enough. Could not find a good way to solder the ground. It was a tricky situation, to make sure that the ground was touching well and the the crimp was tight.

The plastic cover slip over the top and the case screwed on pretty easily.

Another snag was plitting the coaxial from the 2 18awg wires attatched to it. Stripping it apart did not go easily. There are some spots (not many) that the ground is showing where the 2 cables were pulled apart from each other. But not noticable, if not looking for it.

Anyways... I did not heat the heat shrink. I simply slipped it under the tension spring and twisted it tight. Kinda **** it in. It is snug and should not come loose. But will heat it up tonight.

The cables are 2m long (about 6'), I havent tried them yet until I finish heating the heat shrink.

Surprising, the coaxial IC cables are smaller than my Moster cables. Does this mean anything?

Sorry for the bad pics.

wizzy

jakelm wrote: »

Surprising, the coaxial IC cables are smaller than my Moster cables. Does this mean anything?

Sorry for the bad pics.

It means your sound will seem a little more compressed.

W

ShinAce

jakelm wrote: »

The second snag was the ground and the coaxial cable. I folded the ground back on itself and sat it inside the crimp on the connector. Tried to crimp it as well as I can, hoping to be tight enough. Could not find a good way to solder the ground. It was a tricky situation, to make sure that the ground was touching well and the the crimp was tight.

lmao. I'm only 25 but my dad did tons of amateur radio. I've had my fair share of working on larger coax(RG8).

Believe it or not, there are solder connectors for even larger coax than RG6. You have a threaded barrel that you slip on the wire. Then you prep the coax end and slide the connector on. You solder the center pin from the tip of the pin, not the back. And then there are holes down the side of the connector to allow your iron to penetrate to the shielding. This part requires some HEAT!!! Even when it's designed for it, it is not fun.

For RG6, go with straight crimp connectors. Good old connector and compression sleeve. Like that, the connector physically slips between the shielding and plastic cover.

Lowell_M

I learned something this week. Maybe try Ideal Industries compressions connectors. You will also need a compression tool, but they have RCA compression connectors that also seal the cable so that air can not get to the conductors and cause corrosion. You might find these at Home Depot or Lowes, but would probably have to go to an electrical distribution house.

I'm going to replace the connections at the end of my subwoofer IC that goes through the wall with these.

ShinAce

Those compression fittings are fantastic connectors. The quality can run you 5$ a piece, but worth it considering the expenses we expose ourselves to.

An example so that we are all on the same page:
http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Electronics/ListingC2548a67-6.html

Lowell_M

http://www.idealindustries.com/products/datacomm/connectors/omniconn_rca_connectors.jsp

These are what I'm going to try

okiepolkie

I use these for pretty much everything: http://www.itcplug.com/

They are made by Audioquest, and work great for custom interconnects. Over the last two years, I've probably terminated 1000 of them, and have never had a bad connection.

For custom RCA cables-component video, subwoofer, & standard interconnects, I typically use Audioqest HD6 copper core RG6. As I'm generally doing 10-50 cables at a time, soldering is just not very efficient.

Sorry I didn't see this post sooner. I could have helped you get the parts you needed.

jakelm

Well, 2 of the 5 cables, broke. The center +tive pin broke off the center lead. I used silver, I resoldered with regular Rosin-core, seems to be alittle stronger. The solder did not hold up to bending and pulling off. I will check out the compression fitting. If I would not change my system around and leave the cables alone, they would probably be ok, but I change things too often and need a connection that can withstand pulling off and reconnecting.

dorokusai

okiepolkie wrote: »

I use these for pretty much everything: http://www.itcplug.com/

They are made by Audioquest, and work great for custom interconnects. Over the last two years, I've probably terminated 1000 of them, and have never had a bad connection.

For custom RCA cables-component video, subwoofer, & standard interconnects, I typically use Audioqest HD6 copper core RG6. As I'm generally doing 10-50 cables at a time, soldering is just not very efficient.

Sorry I didn't see this post sooner. I could have helped you get the parts you needed.

I got a demo of these from Bill Low at CES when they first introduced them in the AQ CI lineup. Great idea and they work very well.

jakelm

anonymouse wrote: »

First off - your compression of the shield apparently was not good enough. Second, if the solder broke off, you had a dry solder joint to start with. A good solder joint would not break off - the wire would likely have broken due to twisting before the joint. You need to heat that center pin good. You said you melted the jacket. To avoid that, what you need tol do is to hold the connector by its center pin in a vice, which provides a heat sink and physical support while you heat the other end.

I didnt try the vice idea, Thanks..

Yeah, I was afraid to get the center pin too hot, because of melting the shielding/jacket.

The compression of the shieild was very tight, but the center wire still moves. I will try the vice and resolder.

okiepolkie

Let me know if you want any of the tool-less connectors. They can't be pulled off, or at least I'e never benn able to do it. RCA connectors are about $2/ea. The other great thing about them, is that they are reusable. Just cut the connector off, pull out the dielectric, wiggle the jacket out, and reuse.

Shoot me a PM if you need any.

ZH

jakelm

okiepolkie wrote: »

Let me know if you want any of the tool-less connectors. They can't be pulled off, or at least I'e never benn able to do it. RCA connectors are about $2/ea. The other great thing about them, is that they are reusable. Just cut the connector off, pull out the dielectric, wiggle the jacket out, and reuse.

Shoot me a PM if you need any.

ZH

Thanks ZH. If my new soldering attemps dont work out, I will take you up on that offer.