Woundering if this combo will work with RTi 10's
Wesley Snipes
Posts: 26
Hello,
I just have decided to upgrade my home theatre system. I currently have a panasonic receiver model SA-HE100, which is 6.1 surround sound (6x100 watts). Is this receiver/amp going to work well with the RTi 10's? I have just purchased a Velodyne Subwoofer (DSP-12), so that should take care of the bass. I know that my receiver is sub par to the new one's out now, I am just wondering if I pick up these RTi 10's is it going to make me have to pick up another reciever aswell, which i really don't want to do(until maybe next year). Thanks.
I just have decided to upgrade my home theatre system. I currently have a panasonic receiver model SA-HE100, which is 6.1 surround sound (6x100 watts). Is this receiver/amp going to work well with the RTi 10's? I have just purchased a Velodyne Subwoofer (DSP-12), so that should take care of the bass. I know that my receiver is sub par to the new one's out now, I am just wondering if I pick up these RTi 10's is it going to make me have to pick up another reciever aswell, which i really don't want to do(until maybe next year). Thanks.
Post edited by Wesley Snipes on
Comments
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It will do fine at low to reasonable volumes only. Be careful not to clip. Welcome to Club Polk and try to do some searches to pull up info. that's already documented. Take your time, do some research and when the time comes to upgrade the amp [which you will want to do], by all means...get back to us.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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If you want to keep the AVR, then I would suggest the rti8's as they're much easier to power. Keep the 10's get a separate amp. If the Panasonic doesn't have pre-outs, well there's always option 1.
welcome to club polk. -
Always bet on black.2007 Club Polk Football Pool Champ
2010 Club Polk Fantasy Football Champ
2011 Club Polk Football Pool Champ
"It's like a koala bear crapped a rainbow in my brain!" -
Well I found out that the RTi 8's are sold out, so the RTi 10's are my only option for now. Unless anyone knows of a place in Canada I can find the RTi 8's? for a good price that is. Thanks for the info guys.
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I'd get that tax evasion thing cleared up before you upgrade your HT...."Just because youre offended doesnt mean youre right." - Ricky Gervais
"For those who believe, no proof is necessary. For those who don't believe, no proof is possible." - Stuart Chase
"Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago." - Bernard Berenson -
Well I have gone and purchased the RTi 10's... so now I am out to find a good receiver to power them. I have been looking at HK receivers, and I am wondering if some of them will work for my RTi 10's. The models I have been looking at are only rated for 70 to 90 watts per channel. Is that going to be suffecient? The one I am intrested in right now is the HK AVR-340, but its only rated at 70 wpc. Will this work? Thanks for the help.
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It will work, but you would be better off using an amp. HK 70wpc is like most others 110wpc. Also the HK will have PreOuts so you can add an amp easily.
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
The HK receiver should work, take a look at the 805. On another note, its good to see you here at Club Polk. I dont care about your personal life, I was very pleased with the way you came thru in all 3 Blade films and was wondering if I could get an autograph.Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!
Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580 -
Hey guys.. thanks for the info. I was hoping to find a receiver that could power these RTi 10's with out needing an amp. I just don't have the space on my stand for both huge receiver and amp. Which receiver will power these bad boys so I am able to use them to there full potential. One that probably wont break the bank too.. or is that possible? or would it be cheaper to buy a new audio stand and amp? My films are not bringing in the cash they once did!.. haha.
Sherardp, I'll notify you of my next public signing.. haha. -
The 10's are actually more efficient than the 8's. They will be one db louder with the same power than the 8's. They can just keep going where the 8's reach their limits a little earlier.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Ben 62670:Really? I have been told that the 8's require quite abit less wattage. I just went down to my local Futureshop and tested out the new version of the RTi series the RTi A5's and the RTi A7's. They were running these speakers with a HK AVR-747(i am pretty sure it was) and I turned the volume just about to its max to get the loudness out of the speakers that I wanted(not at home, but for a good test) I thought this HK wasn't powerfull enough. I also switched them back and forth, and it sounded like the
A5's were louder at the same volume.. well to my ear anyways. I also thought that the
A5's had a better sounding mid range over the A7's, but I was also thinking if these speakers were powered correctly that the A7's would out perform the A5's. Am I wrong? -
What about this Yamaha HTR6080?. It is 120 WPC, would this pound my RTi 10's?
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The HK watts that you see on there web site are about 30 to 40 watts under rated while a receiver from Yamaha the 2700 i think it was which is ratted at about 120x7. Was tested in a edition of HT magazine were actually on putting out only like 63 or 73 watts when they tested it.If life had more tubes it would be a lot smoother.
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The bottom line here, as others have stated, is that you really do need an amp in order to get the best sound out of those speakers. There are many AVR's that will give you decent sound, and certainly many that will give you the volume you need. But there's just no substitute for the pure sound that is delivered from a good, high quality, high current amp.
I did everything I could to convince myself that i'd be happy with only an AVR, but that didn't last very long. I have a Yamaha RX-V2500 AVR (130w) and just didn't like the quality of the sound it produced (it was plenty loud though).
Good luck with the purchase, there's a lot of options out there.Speakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH -
What amp do you recommend for these speakers? Something relatively inexpensive but will get the job done! I would prefer if I could get this amp in Canada. Thanks for the help!.
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i would look at carver or some phase linear amps on ebay.If life had more tubes it would be a lot smoother.
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Sorry to ask a million questions... but how many WPC should I be looking for? any certian models that will work well? Would I only need a 2 channel amp? I have a Pioneer Elite centre channel and Boston rear's that seem to work well with 100 WPC off my current receiver.. but then again now I am thinking of upgrading the rear's.. but not until a later date.. as well I will add a second centre channel to upgrade my current 5.1 to 7.1.
I am also wondering what type of inputs the amp should have? Should I not be running fiber optic or digital coax to this amp to keep the sound quality? The ones I have been looking at on Ebay have RCA inputs. -
ok on the back of your avr you have ports that are labeled pre outs they are RCA. all you have to do is connect the LF to the left side of the amp and then run speaker wire to the FL speaker. the same gos for the right just using the FR. about the type of amp any thing carver should work just be wary about the M1.0t as i have herd they have a really big thump when you turn them off. im think like about 200rms. i would recommend any m-400 model or if you like the needle meters the m-500. the t models are preferred as bob carver has modified these to sound like tube amps. i hope that answers every thing any other questions please ask. i am using one M1.5t with my rti12s and i just bought another one so i could bi-amp it.If life had more tubes it would be a lot smoother.
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Wesley Snipes wrote: »Sorry to ask a million questions... but how many WPC should I be looking for? any certian models that will work well? Would I only need a 2 channel amp? I have a Pioneer Elite centre channel and Boston rear's that seem to work well with 100 WPC off my current receiver.. but then again now I am thinking of upgrading the rear's.. but not until a later date.. as well I will add a second centre channel to upgrade my current 5.1 to 7.1.
I am also wondering what type of inputs the amp should have? Should I not be running fiber optic or digital coax to this amp to keep the sound quality? The ones I have been looking at on Ebay have RCA inputs.
This is a question for the ages, and has been discussed in depth on this forum. A good quality 100+ wpc 2-channel amp is probably all you need. But those speakers like power, so the more you give them the better they'll sound. As to whether or not you need only a 2-channel amp, then yes, to drive the RTi's that's all you need. But when you eventually upgrade your rears and center you're going to want to give them separate power too.
You can do a bit at a time, and there's nothing wrong with that. Buy a 2-channel amp now, maybe something inexpensive and lower wattage, but good quality. Then upgrade it later.
Or you could buy a good 200wpc 5-channel amp now and not have to upgrade later.
As to the connections between the AVR and amp, you will use "interconnect" cables, which are analog cables with RCA terminations.Speakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH -
Here I posted a pic of the rear of my AVR(i hope you can see it fine). I do not have pre outs on my AVR, so could I use one of these other outputs to hook into the amp? That probably would work for strickly audio, but not for 5.1 or above correct? or what if I tied into my speaker output and use that as an input to the amp? I know that was an option for my sub(speaker level input) or should I just upgrading my AVR ?
Thanks again for the help guys. -
Ok the problem is that powered amps dont accept bare wires. i would think you could convert bare wire to the RCA the power amp needs. the only thing i could think of would be a item i think is called a z-coupler that was made by carver but that was a long time ago. i hate to say it you might need a new AVR if you want to have a powered amp on your system. when the avr asked about speaker level input is because most if not all powered subs have speaker inputs as an option for hooking up. i hope this helpsIf life had more tubes it would be a lot smoother.
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I did some looking around for AVR's(since it looks like I'll need one anyways).. and I found good reviews on the Denon AVR 2807. It has all the features I am looking for, it is 110 WPC and I can bi-amp the towers, so theoretically I should have 220 WPC going to the RTi 10's, correct? If you guys think that would work I'll try that, but I could also hook up an amp to it at a later date if I find I need more power. I really don't know much about bi-amping, so fill me in if I am out to lunch on thinking it will double my wattage.
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This is a quote about this AVR 2807
"Power Amplifier Assign function, lets you assign 2 of the 7 amp channels to drive Zone 2 speakers directly or Bi-Amp Front Left and Right channels."
I just did some reading on bi-amping and it is the use of two(or more) amps to power a speaker. So this quote must be wrong then? or they are using the wrong terminolgy? or can this still mean using 4 channels of one AVR to power a set of towers which normally uses 2 channels?
Or is quote refering to bi-wiring? if so, anything wrong with doing that? -
no they are using using to different amps just they are both inside the avr. And yes it would be like 220watts going to the towers it should sound pretty good i have about 350 rms to my 12s and are getting ready to bi-amp with another 350rms. i think that AVR should be good just check for at least HDMI 1.1 as that would let you have the new HD audio formats passed though to it like if you have a ps3.If life had more tubes it would be a lot smoother.
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I do have a PS3, and I just checked the web site. HDMI 1.1 compliant! This sounds like my baby... thanks.
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Is there much of a difference in 1.1 ver 1.2 and 1.3? for HDMI.
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the only thing i know for sure is if you want 1080p switching and to have the receiver do the decoding of the surround sound mix (which if you are running a ps3 you dont need) you need 1.3a i think it is. but if you just want the sound to play thought the receiver and let the ps3 do the decoding which it does all you need is HDMI 1.1. my current receiver a HK AVR-745 has HDMI 1.1 so i can still listen to all the dolby true HD and all the other uncompressed audio formats as long as the player says it decodes it. and the next question is how do i know if my player decodes the audio format i want it will say it on the box or on the web page for the product. i hope this help any other questions please ask i know its hard to decide on a new receiver.If life had more tubes it would be a lot smoother.