What is the suggest watts per channel for SDA's

cfrizz

No thanks. I'm really not into switching my gear around. It takes too much time & a lot of it is too heavy to be doing it. I wouldn't be able to move at the end of the day!:eek:

Besides I no longer have either one of those amps, they are with my brother in DC.

This is simply one of those questions that can never be definitively answered because everyone hears things differently. You either hear a difference or you don't.

jdhdiggs wrote:

NP, would you be interested in my 100W amp to compare to the rotel's a parasounds?

danger boy

1k

davidk0512

hearingimpared wrote:

Ahhh Ohm's law made simple!!!

Voltage doesn't change, it is what it is, if you are plugged into a 120 volt outlet, all you're ever going to get is 120 volts. Variances in resistance result in changes in current demand.

davidk0512

jdhdiggs wrote:

Ok,
Watts = Voltage * Current

So you could have a situation where a power supply could provide tons of current but low voltage, but this isn't practical at the high resistances of speakers.

I mis-quoted, I meant to address this one

hearingimpared

davidk0512 wrote:

Voltage doesn't change, it is what it is, if you are plugged into a 120 volt outlet, all you're ever going to get is 120 volts. Variances in resistance result in changes in current demand.

That is a very broad statement. You have a higher voltage reading (drop) across higher resistance so voltage does vary. I've never been plugged into a 120v outlet and had a constant 120 volts. Voltage is just presure and presure changes.

dudeinaroom

davidk0512 wrote:

Voltage doesn't change, it is what it is, if you are plugged into a 120 volt outlet, all you're ever going to get is 120 volts. Variances in resistance result in changes in current demand.

So if I plugged a transformer into a wall that had a stepdown factor of 10 I'd still get 120 volts? Or if I ran a 10 light bulbs in series they will all see 120 volts. I think I would see 12 volts at each light. I don't know, I didn't finish electronics, you tell me.

davidk0512

Plugging a transformer into a 120 volt outlet - 120 volts is supplied to the transformer - the transformer steps down the supplied voltage to whatever it is you're powering.

Every light bulb you have in a 120 volt circuit is powered by 120 volts at each bulb, the more bulbs (resistance) you have in the circuit, the more current will be drawn from the power source.

jdhdiggs

Umm, in an amp, the voltages do change, that's how the signal is transferred (quiet passages: low voltage, loud passages: high voltage)

It's a digital switching supply. I have seen extremely high rail voltages (200V + range) and ones in the 40V range. You can change voltage easily, other than frequency, it's the whole premise of audio amplifiers. In tube amps, you can voltages headed into the 600-700V range.

Also, the 120V your talking about is almost never 120V. That exact voltage only occurs 60 times a second.

jdhdiggs

davidk0512 wrote:

Plugging a transformer into a 120 volt outlet - 120 volts is supplied to the transformer - the transformer steps down the supplied voltage to whatever it is you're powering.

Every light bulb you have in a 120 volt circuit is powered by 120 volts at each bulb, the more bulbs (resistance) you have in the circuit, the more current will be drawn from the power source.

WRONG... OK, you really shouldn't be talking about circuits, you've already stepped in it too many times. First off, it's AC. Secondly, the above statement is ONLY true if the bulbs are in a parrallel circuit. If they are in a series circuit, each of the 10 bulbs (assuming same resistance) would see a 12 V drop. In series, each bulb you add would decrease the current through the system.

davidk0512

Also, the 120V your talking about is almost never 120V. That exact voltage only occurs 60 times a second.

That's correct, the voltage in my house will actually read ~123 volts. The reference to 120 V is a standard, I wouldn't suggest plugging a 120 V appliance into a 220 V supply, that's why the configuration of the outlets are different.

Secondly, the above statement is ONLY true if the bulbs are in a parrallel circuit. If they are in a series circuit, each of the 10 bulbs (assuming same resistance) would see a 12 V drop. In series, each bulb you add would decrease the current through the system.

You might want to take a meter and measure the voltage at your outlets, I don't think your burning a light bulb with 12 volts AC.

jdhdiggs

You may wish to actually take a circuits course.

And yes, according to a fluke multimeter, you would onlt have a 12V drop across a single light bulb in a 10 bulb series circuit.

hearingimpared

davidk0512 wrote:

Voltage doesn't change, it is what it is, if you are plugged into a 120 volt outlet, all you're ever going to get is 120 volts. Variances in resistance result in changes in current demand.

I'm not sure you're are making you case clearly. Here you say voltage doesn't change. I have a voltage and current display on the power center for my 2 ch rig. When I am playing music and nothing is going on in the house, at least electrically, the voltage will vary from 118 to 122.5 volts. The current of course changes with the demand of the power amps. When my wife is running the microwave oven the voltage drops to as low as 111 volts. This is the voltage at the wall outlet.

davidk0512 wrote:

Also, the 120V your talking about is almost never 120V. That exact voltage only occurs 60 times a second.

That's correct, the voltage in my house will actually read ~123 volts. The reference to 120 V is a standard, I wouldn't suggest plugging a 120 V appliance into a 220 V supply, that's why the configuration of the outlets are different.

Here you contadict your first statement.

davidk0512 wrote:

Secondly, the above statement is ONLY true if the bulbs are in a parrallel circuit. If they are in a series circuit, each of the 10 bulbs (assuming same resistance) would see a 12 V drop. In series, each bulb you add would decrease the current through the system.

You might want to take a meter and measure the voltage at your outlets, I don't think your burning a light bulb with 12 volts AC.

You just affirmed and repeat what jdhdiggs stated.

My issue here is that you said,"

davidk0512 wrote:

Voltage doesn't change, it is what it is, if you are plugged into a 120 volt outlet, all you're ever going to get is 120 volts."

and it just isn't true.

ben62670

This has turned into an odd how many watts question. For your light bulb experiment you would have to know the Resistance of each bulb to realize voltage drop in series.

jdhdiggs

ben62670 wrote:

This has turned into an odd how many watts question. For your light bulb experiment you would have to know the Resistance of each bulb to realize voltage drop in series.

No you wouldn't (assuming their all the same). You know the total is 120 (or 123 or whatever), just divide by the number of bulbs...

But at least you get it...

HI: I think he's just really confused and can't figure out how to quote or something...

davidk0512

My apologies for getting this thread so off track, I really only intended to make a simple statement that in a 120 VAC circuit (and yes, I know this varies from 115 to 125 volts more or less). Light bulbs or appliances or anything else plugged into the circuit will all see the same 120 volts more or less, unless of course if you overload it and pop the circuit breaker.

dudeinaroom

jdhdiggs wrote:

WRONG... OK, you really shouldn't be talking about circuits, you've already stepped in it too many times. First off, it's AC. Secondly, the above statement is ONLY true if the bulbs are in a parrallel circuit. If they are in a series circuit, each of the 10 bulbs (assuming same resistance) would see a 12 V drop. In series, each bulb you add would decrease the current through the system.

Thank you

dudeinaroom

besides this is not supposed to be an argument over ohm's law, just a power recommendation. I already put my 2 cents in so I will just leave it at that.

Sorry for hijacking the thread,
dude

TroyD

50W of high quality amplification with a couple db of headroom will do in just about every situation.

BDT

hearingimpared

TroyD wrote:

50W of high quality amplification with a couple db of headroom will do in just about every situation.

BDT

I actually didn't know that Bro.

AHHHHhhh the calming voice of reason!!!

TroyD

Polk Paul at the last PF talked about a demo that he used to stage while working for NAD running two pair of AR9's off a little NAD 3020 (20wpc) integrated amp to ear splitting levels.

BDT

engtaz

Thanks for all the help. I was trying find info if different SDA’s require more or less amps. SDA SRS minimums are ?? 1.2's are? 2.3's are? and so on throughout the SDA line. I just felt that if someone is going to get these great speakers they show provide the proper power to hear them the way they were meant to be heard.

Thanks
engtaz

snow

TroyD wrote:

Polk Paul at the last PF talked about a demo that he used to stage while working for NAD running two pair of AR9's off a little NAD 3020 (20wpc) integrated amp to ear splitting levels.

BDT

Your nad/proton amps are highly underated for power lol. I have a couple of protons. One is a 40 wpc model but easily kicks **** on a 100 wpc adcom I have. The other is an AA-1120 an 120 wpc amp that has an incredible amount of headroom over 7 decibels and lots of reserve power. REGARDS SNOW

engtaz

Snow,

How would you rate Rotel, Adcom, NAD, and Proton or some other amp.

Thanks,
engtaz

snow

engtaz wrote:

Snow,

How would you rate Rotel, Adcom, NAD, and Proton or some other amp.

Thanks,
engtaz

All 4 companys there make nice stuff in there price range. Nad and proton are probally the most under rated for power. adcom and rotel make both make nice gear for the money involved. As far as rating an amp goes in my mind i look to see if it outperforms others in the same price range and class. If it does than it goes up the scale. Then i look for reliability and service related issues. then resale value. REGARDS SNOW

engtaz

Snow,

Do you have suggestions on best watts per dollar amps. name and prices

Thanks
engtaz

ben62670

Currant per dollar would have to go to Adcom. The GFA-555 have a dampening factor of >800:eek: . Need I say more? OK 200 watts per at 8, 325 per at 4. This thing hits harder than my GFA-585(250-400). Ebay for $400 all day long.

Oops my name isn't snow:D

http://frame.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?CompareItems&coentrypage=myebay&lineid=220088152451&lineid=200084233864&lineid=220087052096&lineid=140090612537&lineid=110097756749&lineid=150096038431&lineid=160090308363&lineid=180090009772&lineid=320086677004&lineid=260089530841&lineid=290087635165&lineid=180088631007&lineid=180085125681&lineid=230094140940&lineid=250083721407&lineid=130079918321&lineid=230090674953&lineid=300079760687&lineid=300079782715&lineid=270088151492&lineid=140080527599&lineid=330083158871&lineid=290078302462&copagenum=1&coaction=compare

engtaz

ben62670,
I appreciate all good input.

Thanks,
engtaz

hearingimpared

snow wrote:

All 4 companys there make nice stuff in there price range. Nad and proton are probally the most under rated for power. adcom and rotel make both make nice gear for the money involved. As far as rating an amp goes in my mind i look to see if it outperforms others in the same price range and class. If it does than it goes up the scale. Then i look for reliability and service related issues. then resale value. REGARDS SNOW

You are correct about them making some nice stuff especially in their price range. I wouldn't say that NAD is under rated for power. I think that NAD conservatively rates their amps, for instance, the NAD 2200 was rated 100 wpc in stereo mode. That amp easily put out 150 clean wpc and more in stereo mode. I've always liked NAD's philosophy in their rating system and the audiophile rags always touted NAD for that.

hearingimpared

engtaz wrote:

ben62670,
I appreciate all good input.

Thanks,
engtaz

engtaz you really can't go wrong with any of those four. I think the thing to do is to get the best price for the best "kept" piece of gear meaning buying it from an original owner who can tell you that it was kept in a smoke free environment as well as aprox. how many hours the unit has on it, what pre was used, what speakers were driven etc.

Original boxes and original manuals is always a good sign. Upgrades or modifications done by reputable companies is another good thing.


Take your time. . . you will always see these name brands on the gon or ebay and even here.

snow

hearingimpared wrote:

You are correct about them making some nice stuff especially in their price range. I wouldn't say that NAD is under rated for power. I think that NAD conservatively rates their amps, for instance, the NAD 2200 was rated 100 wpc in stereo mode. That amp easily put out 150 clean wpc and more in stereo mode. I've always liked NAD's philosophy in their rating system and the audiophile rags always touted NAD for that.

Joe when I said under rated. I meant they were under rated because they actually put out more than there specs claim. Versus over rated for there power like most receivers are.

I know for example that i have a adcom gfa-2 now that is rated for 100 wpc and I also have a proton D-540 integrated amp that is rated at 40 wpc. The proton kicks butt over the adcom. When I tried to turn it up a lttle on the adcom during a song with heavy bass it goes into protect mode and shuts down long before the proton goes into clipping. Proton was the oem supplier for most if not all of the nad amps.

I have nothing against adcom products. most of there stuff actually outperforms the rated specs also. and are well made. long lasting products that out perform probally 90% of anything else in there price range. REGARDS SNOW