This shouldn't be a problem.....should it ?

millerman 3732

I just placed an order for an Outlaw Audio 7125 7x125 wpc I am only running a 5.1 set up so I plan split the signal from the L & R pre outs to the L & R and SBL and SBR inputs on the amp and bi-amping my RTi 10's and bumping the power up to 250 watts each this should work right? or do I need to be on the phone changeing my order?

unc2701

should work fine.... rti 10's have biamp posts, right?

millerman 3732

yes sir they do

sickicw

bi-amping will make'em sound better. Also if you install a 20 amp circuit for your amp, it will sound even better.

unc2701

sickicw wrote:

bi-amping will make'em sound better. Also if you install a 20 amp circuit for your amp, it will sound even better.

I hate to say it, but 20amp might be overkill there... the outlaw is fuse limited at 1200 watts, so that's a hair over 10amps. As long as you don't have a bunch of other gear on the same circuit, 15amps should be plenty, especially for 8 ohm nominal speakers.

sickicw

it might be fuse limited to 1200 watts, but i am willing to bet that the fuse can take more than that power for a very short amount of time. A good test to see if it would make any difference would be to only hook up two speakers and listen, then hook up all your speakers and listen. After you hook up all the speakers, see if you can notice any current compression, if so, you might want to invest in a 20 amp line.

unc2701

True, but there's only one power supply in the outlaw, so any defficiencies you heard would the sum of the power supply being tapped out with all channels driven and any current underrun caused by it being on a 15amp circuit.

... looks like the power supply is 1.6kva, which still falls under 15amp. So the power supply is going to be tapped before the power circuit. Now, I'm as big a fan of dedicated circuits as the next guy, but $100/hour for an electrician adds up quick. It sure wouldn't hurt to have dedicated 20 amp to the outlaw, but the money would probably be better spent elsewhere.

edit: the test you mention would be prefect for mono by x multichannel amps or monoblocks.

millerman 3732

Okey now you guys are getting alittle over my head, all I really want to know is if it will work and if it will sound better than my HK635

unc2701

hehe. A big YES on that. If you can run it yourself, put in a dedicated 20amp circuit from your breaker panel. If not, it can probably wait till you go up to something more like an Outlaw 7700.

And you might want to put a new mark on your volume knob and label it "11"

millerman 3732

Just spoke with my dad, before he got in to politics he was a building contractor and eletrician, and he said that we shouldn't have any problem putting in a 20 amp circuit, but I already have a 15 amp in place and if what UNC2701 says about 1200 watts is just a hair over 10 amps shouldn't the 15amp be enough since my HK will not be drawing any where near the power it did before I got the Outlaw?

jcaut

If your dad hasn't checked on the price of 12-2 Romex lately, he will be shocked (no pun intended). Not that it will necessarily make a difference to you, if you're just going to run one circuit, but..

When I re-wired my house a couple of years ago, I was paying $26 for 250' of 12-2 w/ground. I was planning on adding a couple of outside lights on the garage, so I went to buy another roll the other day and it was $118 locally :eek:...

Just FYI.

Jason

unc2701

Well, in that case, buy a case of beer, a few steaks and get him to work 'cause you're gonna want a bigger system down the road

So, for about $25 in 12 guage cable, $5 for a 20 amp breaker and that priceless family bonding, it's worth it. If you were going to pay an electrician $200-$300, it wouldn't be worth it.

Anyhow, in the meantime, the HK is going to draw something pretty close to what it does at idle, so call it 60-100 watts. Still under 15 amp total.

millerman 3732

Okay guys I've put together a list of the things that on the circuit that my HT gear is run on hoping that one of you could tell me if I will still be under the 15 amp limit, I'm really just starting to learn about the whole watt/amp thing and I need a little help

1. every thing is plugged into a Moster Power HTS1000
2. 60'' Sony LCD RPTV
3. Toshiba HD-A1
4. HK 635 (no channels driven, pre amp only)
5. Klipsch KSW15 ( above the fuse it says 3.0A, if that helps)
6. Outlaw 7125
7. Dish Network receiver

I hope this will be enough info to help figure out if I'll be under the 15amp limit or if I need to stat pulling some wire.

unc2701

Start pulling wire.

A) amps=watts/115... but you always want some overhead, and that's from a code/ electrical standpoint. For an audiophile standpoint, you wnat even more overhead, which is why a bunch of us have dedicated 20amp outlets for our power amps.

B)a 15 amp oulet would be sufficient for that outlaw by itself, but with everything else on there, you're going over the limit.

C)Just about all the manuals should have a max current draw power. Without looking everything up here's my guess:
2:500 watts
3:50 watts
4:60-70 watts
5:800 watts???
6:1200 watts
7:50 watts

All together you're well over 15amp- the tv and the sub are what really does it.

D) pull that 20 amp wire (if you're going to go through the pain, might as well make it big) and put the outlaw on it. Do not plug it into a line conditioner, unless it's a tripp lite or PS audio or one that clearly states that it can pass at least 20 amp of current. That monster HTS will limit the current available. Plug everything else into the monster and plug it into 15amp plug... you might consider putting the KSW staight into the outlet instead of into the monster.

e)For surge protection, I reccomend Leviton Hospital grade surge protection outlets- you can find them on ebay NOS... if you draw a blank there, drop me a PM- I have a few left of both 15 amp and 20 amp and we can work something out.

millerman 3732

If the specs you've given are all MAX watts/amps drawn what are the chances that all my gear will be drawing max watts/amps at the same time, if they are not shouldn't this keep the power drawn down around the 15 amp limit? like I said before I am still learning about all this. I understand what you mean by head room but I hardly ever really push my gear, do you think I might be able to get by with what I have for now?

unc2701

Those would be my guess at the max- for everything but the sub and the amp, that'd also be the typical draw. It's kind unlikely that the sub and all the amp channels will hit their max simultenously. When I had my adcom 565 mono's I popped a 15 amp breaker a few times, but those things were beasts. If you use 7 channel stereo and crank it you could probably pop the breaker.

Does that monster have a voltage meter on the front? If so, keep an eye on things- if you see the voltage drop when the stereo is going (say more than 7-10 volts, especially on heavy bass notes), you really need to think about that new line soon. If you never see a drop, then you'll be fine... but in the long run, you're probably gonna want that extra run.

unc2701

BTW- I'm going to call it a night, but i wish you good Fedex/UPS karma... you're going to be a happy camper once you get that system going.