Looking to rebuild RTA-11TL's
cj4qts
Posts: 14
Anyone out there who could give me the REAL truth about rebuilding crossovers for my RTA-11TL's. I understand the improvements to the speakers, sound quality and so forth, but my question is which brand of components and where could I get them to rebuild these the RIGHT way?
I've heard so many different suggestions about this. I've read posts that specify prices ranging from $175-$200 for parts only, and I've talked to audio shops who have quoted me prices of under $100 to have both rebuilt by them (which sounds kind of fishy to me). Which is it? I know there are obviously different brands that are of different quality, but do I need to spend $200 on certain parts which may be overkill?
Does anyone out there rebuild these using quality parts? Anyone out there willing to do these for me?
My philosophy is if you're going to do something, don't cut corners so do it right the first time!
I look forward to your response. God Bless,
Andy (cj4qts)
I've heard so many different suggestions about this. I've read posts that specify prices ranging from $175-$200 for parts only, and I've talked to audio shops who have quoted me prices of under $100 to have both rebuilt by them (which sounds kind of fishy to me). Which is it? I know there are obviously different brands that are of different quality, but do I need to spend $200 on certain parts which may be overkill?
Does anyone out there rebuild these using quality parts? Anyone out there willing to do these for me?
My philosophy is if you're going to do something, don't cut corners so do it right the first time!
I look forward to your response. God Bless,
Andy (cj4qts)
Post edited by cj4qts on
Comments
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Replacing the stock electrolytic and mylar caps with film caps will result in a marked improvement in most cases. Some of that improvement will depend on the associated gear you are using. Film caps can be inexpensive or very expensive, so how much do you want to spend and is the rest of your gear up for the task?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Gawd, I've got to replace the polyswitches in my 1c's,for a fleeting second, I thought to myself that I would rebuild the x-overs, while I was in the neighborhood,here I come with my soldering weapon, get the women and children off the streets :eek:JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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george daniel wrote:here I come with my soldering weapon, get the women and children off the streets :eek:
I found out Mapp gas was just too hot of a flame so I just use propane with my torch nozzle now.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
I really want to rebuild the x-overs,any suggestions,as I do not posess the manual dexterity skills to even attempt it. :cool:JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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If you don't know someone with decent de-soldering and soldering skills, you could try an electronics repair shop. Could be expensive though. The alternative is to pack it well and ship it to someone that would.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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Thanks,, our bio-med guys have the equipment, I may need some help on obtaining the caps,etc, I will do a search for the parts--thanks
JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
I understand that different quality parts are set at different prices, but, do you recommend a good brand that will fit in this crossover?
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I used Solen caps and Mills resistors. The caps will be much larger and you may have to get creative to get them to fit. See this thread here. You may need to use lead extensions on one lead so it will reach, or use hook up wire. A couple of dabs with hot glue keeps them secure. I ordered my parts from Parts Connexion.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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Thanks Scomp, I sincerely appreciate the information JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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cj4qts wrote:I understand that different quality parts are set at different prices, but, do you recommend a good brand that will fit in this crossover?
As stated, any brand of replacement film caps will be much larger and you should dry fit them before soldering. In short, any brand will fit your crossover, it's up to you to decide how much you're willing to spend.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Love these speakers
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