Running RTI 12's on an Active crossover...
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bernouski
Posts: 8
Hey all so I had a quick question about running one of my RTI 12 speakers as three way active on three different power amps.
So I got all the drivers out and the old crossover.... I figure I will probably put the non useable crossover back in the cabinet and run all my wires from the drivers out the rear port to avoid the hassle of installing new terminals.
Anyway I was trying to figure out how I would wire the mids and lows.... I'm familiar with wiring in parallel and series and what not, but the wiring diagram said to reverse the polarity?
Any help would be great right about now, and incase you guys were wondering I am running 2 Ashly Ftx 2001, 1 Ashly Fet 2000, 1 Ashly Fet 500, 1 FTX 1500 and lastly a Peavey CS-800x. The crossover I am using for the time being is a Ashly Xr-1001 which can run three way mono, at 24/db oct. I decided if I like the sound I will grab a Ashly SC-77 stereo three way active crossover 12/db oct.
All this is being guided by my Denon AVR-x3600h....
Input and feedback on whats going on is always welcome I figure I could use the constructive criticism
So I got all the drivers out and the old crossover.... I figure I will probably put the non useable crossover back in the cabinet and run all my wires from the drivers out the rear port to avoid the hassle of installing new terminals.
Anyway I was trying to figure out how I would wire the mids and lows.... I'm familiar with wiring in parallel and series and what not, but the wiring diagram said to reverse the polarity?
Any help would be great right about now, and incase you guys were wondering I am running 2 Ashly Ftx 2001, 1 Ashly Fet 2000, 1 Ashly Fet 500, 1 FTX 1500 and lastly a Peavey CS-800x. The crossover I am using for the time being is a Ashly Xr-1001 which can run three way mono, at 24/db oct. I decided if I like the sound I will grab a Ashly SC-77 stereo three way active crossover 12/db oct.
All this is being guided by my Denon AVR-x3600h....
Input and feedback on whats going on is always welcome I figure I could use the constructive criticism
Comments
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But why?
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Most likely, it's not the entire crossover....it's probably just a resistor or a cap. Easily replaceable if you are able to do what it is you are doing.
What doesn't work on one or both of the crossover units?
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Most likely, it's not the entire crossover....it's probably just a resistor or a cap. Easily replaceable if you are able to do what it is you are doing.
What doesn't work on one or both of the crossover units?
Tom
The tweeter does not work, I replaced the tweeter with a working one to no avail. -
The polarity reversal is probably tied to the order (i.e., the phase shift) of the crossover section in question. A second order crossover introduces a 180 degree phase shift (e.g.).
That said -- Fix the "bad" crossover. While you're at it, consider a cost-effective upgrade of the capacitors (and other 'passive' crossover components, if you wish).
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Within the crossover of the tweeter or MTM network of each speaker, are there any swollen, warped or melted caps or burnt looking resistors? These are visible tell tale signs that the component may have been compromised to the point to where they are open.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Within the crossover of the tweeter or MTM network of each speaker, are there any swollen, warped or melted caps or burnt looking resistors? These are visible tell tale signs that the component may have been compromised to the point to where they are open.
Tom
No theres no visible signs on the crossover indicating which component failed -
Within the crossover of the tweeter or MTM network of each speaker, are there any swollen, warped or melted caps or burnt looking resistors? These are visible tell tale signs that the component may have been compromised to the point to where they are open.
Tom
No theres no visible signs on the crossover indicating which component failed
How do you know that the problem lies in the XO and not, say, in a driver?
Crossovers are fundamentally simple: L, C, R (inductors, capacitors, and resistors), and interconnecting wires (or printed circuit traces). Pretty straightforward to troubleshoot.
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mhardy6647 wrote: »Within the crossover of the tweeter or MTM network of each speaker, are there any swollen, warped or melted caps or burnt looking resistors? These are visible tell tale signs that the component may have been compromised to the point to where they are open.
Tom
No theres no visible signs on the crossover indicating which component failed
How do you know that the problem lies in the XO and not, say, in a driver?
Crossovers are fundamentally simple: L, C, R (inductors, capacitors, and resistors), and interconnecting wires (or printed circuit traces). Pretty straightforward to troubleshoot.
checked the driver on my other RTI and multimeter read it was not working. my other RTI functions properly, sadly the tweeter did not function. Its been replaced now though -
can someone post a link to which capacitors or resistors I need to purchase I cant find them on amazon
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Sonic Craft, Parts Connexion or Madisound.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Most likely, it's not the entire crossover....it's probably just a resistor or a cap. Easily replaceable if you are able to do what it is you are doing.
What doesn't work on one or both of the crossover units?
Tom
The tweeter does not work, I replaced the tweeter with a working one to no avail.
Then the problem is on the crossover.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I still cant find a 100v 9.0uf capacitor.... or a 2.5 ohm 5w 5% resistor
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https://www.mouser.com/c/passive-components/resistors/?power rating=5 W&resistance=2.5 Ohms
https://capacitor.tedss.com/9.0uF - Just run a higher voltage on the cap.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I still cant find a 100v 9.0uf capacitor.... or a 2.5 ohm 5w 5% resistor
As I stated on AK, the problem is R1. The cap does not need to be replaced. As I also stated get a higher wattage resistor and turn the volume level down.
You should replace R1 in both speakers. This is a good choice, https://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/25-ohm-vishay-mills-mra-12-p-4634?osCsid=40c9193f628df2268f9b92a860e73e92Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Now, as an alternative, you can also go with a smaller uf cap to lessen the high frequencies as well as the possibilities of a blown tweeter. These speakers are widely known for being "bright". This will help to tame that down a bit.
Something along the line of a 6.0uf capacitor instead of the 9.0. FWIW.
Tom~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
