Upgrading crossovers & tweeters in SDA's .... questions

JNinja
JNinja Posts: 100
edited July 2015 in Vintage Speakers
Hey guys, I recently ran into a little issue.... I tripped the Thermal in my SDA2's after running hard for a while. Now they are tripping more often since. I can almost do it on demand now!

So I'm looking to upgrade this Thermal Resistor. I've read thread's with F1Nut talking about this. So I want to replace these resistor's, but I'm a newb. Anything I should know, or do at the same time that would increase listening experience on these speakers? Any simple DIY's on hand? Thoughts?

I want to upgrade to the RDO-194's at the SAME TIME. I know this has been asked many times, but I'm seeking most current information, and hopefully some friendly peeps to help me out as I'm a stay at home Dad, with two kids, and run my own business in the process...so any efficiency at getting the information I'm looking for is greatly appreciated!

Post edited by [Deleted User] on
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    If you replace the polyswitch with a resistor, you better be sure to keep the volume on your AVR below clipping level. The resistor offers no protection, it's simply replacing the poly to keep the same amount of resistance in the circuit.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    Dynamat (or a similar mass loading product) the midwoofer and passive radiator baskets. Hurricane nuts or Larrys rings (if you can find them). Epoxy the magnets for reliability.

    There's also upgrading the crossovers but that isn't simple, unless you ship them to someone else and have them do it.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    I beg to differ,,,crossovers are not that difficult to work on,,,sure,,experience helps,,but you gotta start somewhere,,,there is plenty of information available here and help if needed.i cannot tell you how many crossovers that I have done on SDA's and other polk speakers,,,,to me,,,removing them was the hardest part,,,the actual de soldering and soldering is a snap! Good luck and have fun!
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    F1nut wrote: »
    If you replace the polyswitch with a resistor, you better be sure to keep the volume on your AVR below clipping level. The resistor offers no protection, it's simply replacing the poly to keep the same amount of resistance in the circuit.

    According to my amplifier indication (as it was explained to me) and ears, I have not clipped. Thanks
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    Nightfall wrote: »
    Dynamat (or a similar mass loading product) the midwoofer and passive radiator baskets. Hurricane nuts or Larrys rings (if you can find them). Epoxy the magnets for reliability.

    There's also upgrading the crossovers but that isn't simple, unless you ship them to someone else and have them do it.

    Thanks, I've already dynomatted all the baskets, and used epoxy on drivers,

    I read a WHOLE thread and couldn't figure out- just what is Larry's rings
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    I beg to differ,,,crossovers are not that difficult to work on,,,sure,,experience helps,,but you gotta start somewhere,,,there is plenty of information available here and help if needed.i cannot tell you how many crossovers that I have done on SDA's and other polk speakers,,,,to me,,,removing them was the hardest part,,,the actual de soldering and soldering is a snap! Good luck and have fun!

    This ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

    What you're doing is swapping parts, higher quality ones for worn out ones mostly. Upgrading the Xovers improves sound quality immensely.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    drumminman wrote: »
    I beg to differ,,,crossovers are not that difficult to work on,,,sure,,experience helps,,but you gotta start somewhere,,,there is plenty of information available here and help if needed.i cannot tell you how many crossovers that I have done on SDA's and other polk speakers,,,,to me,,,removing them was the hardest part,,,the actual de soldering and soldering is a snap! Good luck and have fun!

    This ^ ^ ^ ^ ^

    What you're doing is swapping parts, higher quality ones for worn out ones mostly. Upgrading the Xovers improves sound quality immensely.

    Thank you, so where to start? What specific parts, and/or guides/diys do you recommend?
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    Listen to Jesse,,, if you are tripping your poly's,,,,99% of the time you are clipping,,,,Over the years I have removed my poly's in my many SDA's ,,,and have never smoked a tweeter,,,why?,,, I took the advice of more experienced members and invested in a higher power,,,HIGH current amplifier,,,,never smoked a tweeter since. Now,,,as the polyswitch gets tripped,,it gets easier and easier to do that,sometimes at lower levels,,,IMHO,,you need to replace or remove them. What are you using to power them with?
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    FET-500 400wpc
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    Yes I notice it's easier and easier... I'm having a tough time finding a diy though, I would like to replace or remove
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    I pulled out the crossover from left SDA-2a .

    I think that very small blue .5 is the Thermal? How to remove it? What to put in there? lol
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    Mills 0.5 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 005-.5

    Would this work?

    03xb36oucro8.jpg
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    I just saw in a different thread that F1Nut mentioned you can use this resistor if you have never tripped under normal usage...Why though? Isn't this safe than just going with a jumper?
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    IIRC,,that is what I used,,,,, you can use a resistor or jumper,,,I went with the mills!
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    I beg to differ,,,crossovers are not that difficult to work on,,,sure,,experience helps,,but you gotta start somewhere

    I should rephrase. It's easy if you know how to solder, you're right, it's just swapping parts. However, I have no soldering experience and certainly wouldn't trust myself to learn on my "babies". :p
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited July 2015
    Sonicap and mills,,,if you are hesitant to solder,,I am sure that someone here would do it for you,,,or take em to a electronics repair shop and have them do it
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    My question is ..Why is there a Styrofoam cup piece around the Poly?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    JNinja wrote: »
    According to my amplifier indication (as it was explained to me) and ears, I have not clipped. Thanks

    Yet, you tripped the poly. That should tell you a clipped signal was sent. Doesn't take but a nano second.

    I agree with DSkip, sell the pro amp and buy a high quality home audio amp.
    I just saw in a different thread that F1Nut mentioned you can use this resistor if you have never tripped under normal usage...Why though? Isn't this safe than just going with a jumper?

    As I previously stated.....

    The resistor offers no protection, it's simply replacing the poly to keep the same amount of resistance in the circuit.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    My question is ..Why is there a Styrofoam cup piece around the Poly?

    I was wondering myself. It has no business there and should be removed.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,638
    edited July 2015
    buzjdd4gpzio.jpg
    Picture of Larry's rings.
    ..
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    boston1450 wrote: »
    buzjdd4gpzio.jpg
    Picture of Larry's rings.

    Get them if you can.
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,638
    edited July 2015
    JNinja wrote: »
    Nightfall wrote: »
    Dynamat (or a similar mass loading product) the midwoofer and passive radiator baskets. Hurricane nuts or Larrys rings (if you can find them). Epoxy the magnets for reliability.

    There's also upgrading the crossovers but that isn't simple, unless you ship them to someone else and have them do it.
    just what is Larry's rings
    Those are Larrys rings. He also makes them for tweeter & passive's for different models & more.

    ..
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    I'm not sure why the styrofoam is there...

    As far as tripping the Poly, it was playing at the same level for about 20 minutes before it tripped...I'm just saying, I wasn't just like turning up the volume and all the sudden it tripped.

    Okay, so can someone please tell me where to get the replacement Poly? (link..)

    I've read a lot about the Ashly FET-500 extensively, considering the amount of information available...many content that it is an 'Audiophile amp' in disguise as Pro. I don't have it all the way up, and even though it's thumping, it never sounded dangerous...I'm sure I'll hear some naysay here, but I'd ask- what about upgrading/updating the FET-500 I have? New Caps and such?

    It's hard to tell by looking at "Larry's rings" how they make much of difference- how/why? Thanks for the picture...

    Again, I'd like to order something, I've already called Polk and they don't have the Poly, so can someone tell me how/where to find it, so I can order please?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    Try Mouser or Digikey. The number on yours should read RDE050A.
    As far as tripping the Poly, it was playing at the same level for about 20 minutes before it tripped...I'm just saying, I wasn't just like turning up the volume and all the sudden it tripped.

    All it takes is a quick transient.
    ...many content that it is an 'Audiophile amp' in disguise as Pro.

    You'll find folks that say that about any pro amp. They are all wrong.
    what about upgrading/updating the FET-500 I have? New Caps and such?

    Don't waste your money.
    It's hard to tell by looking at "Larry's rings" how they make much of difference- how/why?

    I don't have the energy to explain, just do it.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    Thank you F1nut
  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    Does this sound right: RDE050A RXE050 40A 72V Resettable Fuse

    with..

    Resettable Fuse
    40 Amp
    72V
    .5A Hold Current
    1 Amp Trip Current
    Radial Lead

    Manufactured by: RAYCHEM
    Part Number: RDE050A (marked)
    Crosses to: RXE050
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    That's it.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
    Thanks. I ordered (20)... it was $12 bucks.. My theory is, if it goes again, then at least I can replace again.

    With that said- I can solder, but I'm not an expert. When these come in, I'd like to install properly. I have a ****, but new solder iron, and some basic solder. Is there any video you would recommend that would apply to this? I'd like to see it done first. I tried searching youtube, forums, search engines....found nothing relevant
  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
    edited July 2015
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1