Speaker and amp 'brightness'
Sprags
Posts: 120
I'm reading the threads making claims about speakers and amps being too 'bright. Are these differences in 'brightness' being perceived as a comparison of a 20 watt bulb to a 60 watt bulb? If not then what is the difference?
Post edited by Sprags on
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I always perceived it as bright being high in the treble, in your face sound. Harsh"Everything I ever did in my life worthwhile I caught hell for"
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bobsauto49 wrote: »I always perceived it as bright being high in the treble, in your face sound. Harsh
What he said.2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones -
IMHO there is 2 definitions of "brightness" that seem to be a bit confused, is the sound bright or forward???
Where there is a bit of confusion (again IMHO) is a forward speaker, like my Usher MD2 are forward and play jazz, blues, and classical very well highlighting the upper end details of the genre, or the peak of Ozzy coming out bright/harsh in a Black Sabbath song.
Now in rock/classic rock which at times lack some instrumental detail will come off bright when certain Hz are hit making the sound a bit fatiguing.
Now one listener may not be affected or may like the effect of the bright/forward sound while others may not. I like forward in my Jazz/Blues but warm/neutral in my rock. This is the reason I have multiple systems.
Confusing as hell but you know it when it just hits the right spot and it is a lot easier to discern the differences when you have more than one completely different systems or spend some time at shows/show rooms.2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
^ +1, My ZU's were very forward speakers with most of the soundstage in front of them and yet I never considered them "bright."
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So I'm listening to music through LSiM703 with my tube amp and then my SS amp that many here claim.is 'bright'. I don't hear 'bright'. What I do hear is a different dimensionality. As if instruments are more forward or more spread out. I guess I can understand harsh brightness in lo-fi components....but after a certain point ...oh well...I'm sure this will start arguments.
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I agree. LSiMs are not a bright speaker. They do have good detail for a speaker that is not, though!
Nothing to add here, pretty much on the same page about brightness and forwardness with those above. Good discussion!
I am a "warm" man myself. Not warm to the point of no resolution and backgrounding music but warm enough not to fatigue, but to calm and relax when needed.
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
I guess I can understand harsh brightness in lo-fi components....but after a certain point ...oh well...I'm sure this will start arguments.
So far it looks like a discussion although we may all have a slightly different definition of bright. Improved focus, detail and resolution can sound bright to some yet excite others.
As it was mentioned early on, systems can sounds bright when there is too much treble energy, or too much treble energy relative to the rest of the frequency range. In other words, unnatural peaking of high frequencies or lack of mid bass can make the bright word happen. A room can make things bright just as some gear can. Also, high frequencies that are compressed, confused, smeared or distorted can make for brightness.
Main thing is if you like a certain sound quality, no worries about what others say.
EDIT:
Here is what Stereophile says about bright.
"bright, brilliant The most often misused terms in audio, these describe the degree to which reproduced sound has a hard, crisp edge to it. Brightness relates to the energy content in the 4kHz-8kHz band. It is not related to output in the extreme-high-frequency range. All live sound has brightness; it is a problem only when it is excessive."
More terms than you can shake a stick at...
http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/bbs/stereophile_audio-glossary.htmlSalk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Last night I had my tubes connected to the 703's because that's the speaker I bought for this system and I had the SS system connected to TSi300 because that's the other speaker I have. Granted the 300's don't have the clarity and openness of the 703's but in the grand scheme of things they were ok in sound volume. I'm looking for another speaker to uses with my 100 wpc stereo integrated amp.
Any suggestions?
My one idea is to go with Klipsch Heresy's with the tubes because those are tube speakers and dedicate the 703's to my SS system.