Recapping 1b's

tobybad

I'm thinking of recapping my 1b's and I seem to remember a post about using different brands of caps for the highs and lows like a solens for the bass and something else for the tweeters. I've searched but can't get any results on this subject can anyone help?

BKphoto

many to choose from....Most like Sonicap, I like Carity...Mundorf if you have the bucks....plus there are a zillion others...

I used Solens for my bass section....

tobybad

Thanks , I thought I had read somewhere that solens were ok for the bass but not the best choice for the top end but was not sure.

pitdogg2

tobybad wrote: »

Thanks , I thought I had read somewhere that solens were ok for the bass but not the best choice for the top end but was not sure.

that is correct ok for low end bad for high's. Depending on the low end there may be others that will be a better cap for that area. Clarity caps would also be good for both if the price fits. I'd use Sonicap for the high pass. Mills 12 watt resistors for the rest.

StantonZ

Checkout an article I wrote about re-capping my Monitor 10's, if not for the process (which can be done much better) but for the components I chose (SoniCap and Mills) and links to buy them. I notice you're from KC: I grew up there (go Royals)!

http://www.audioholics.com/diy-audio/upgrade-speaker-crossover-polk-audio

Schurkey

I used Dayton 1% tolerance caps for the high-frequency circuit board, and four Dayton 5% (33uF, two per speaker) plus four ERSE 3% (91uF, two per speaker) on the pair of low-frequency circuit boards. The twin 91uF ERSE, 182uF total, was as close as I could get to the stock 185uF while using two, equal-capacitance units.

I didn't take good photos of the HF crossovers, but the LF crossovers 'n' components are pictured below:





I'd be willing to use the ERSE 3% for the whole works, except I don't like their resistors as much as the Mills, so I'm likely placing an order to www.parts-express.com anyway--at which point I might as well order the 1% Dayton caps.

The ERSE resistors are physically larger than the Mills, so they're harder to place on the circuit boards.

Given a choice, I'd NOT order a pair of 2-ohm resistors to complete the two HF circuit boards, I'd use 1.5 ohm or 1.8 ohm resistors instead, to increase the volume level of the treble in relation to the mid/bass. the other resistors are 2.7ohm. Parts-express doesn't stock those in Mills, so I ordered ERSE instead--but the ERSE are hard to put on the circuit boards.

If you're placing an order to ERSE anyway, pick up a pair of their 10mH iron-core inductors, p/n ESQ55-16-10000 qty: 2 10.0mH 16ga ESQ - Super Q Coil. ERSE will custom-unwind them to the correct 9.6uH to replace the enormous air-core SDA inductor for a small additional fee. This will lower the impedance of your speaker system, so if your amp is marginal at 4-ohm loads, don't do this mod. The original huge inductor is still in place, but not connected. It's simply there as a mounting point for the LF crossover boards.

BKphoto

which model is this for...?

Schurkey

BKphoto wrote: »

which model is this for...?

tobybad wrote: »

I'm thinking of recapping my 1b's

My previous post is in regards to my 1Bs.

bigaltx24

I used two 90uf non polar electrolytics for the big shunt caps, they are smaller and easier to get on the boards. I used Clarity PX for the mids and highs with Mundorf MOX resistors.

Schurkey

bigaltx24 wrote: »

I used two 90uf non polar electrolytics for the big shunt caps, they are smaller and easier to get on the boards.

Way less expensive, too.