What glue to use on SDA-2B's side panels?
Mystery
Posts: 2,546
Side panel on my SDA-2B's are little bit un-glued on top and some corners.
Is Elmer's wood glue is good option?
I also have another brand's 'Stronger than wood' glue.
Or should I use hot glue?
Thanks for suggestions.
Is Elmer's wood glue is good option?
I also have another brand's 'Stronger than wood' glue.
Or should I use hot glue?
Thanks for suggestions.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
Post edited by Mystery on
Comments
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Get a good cabinet makers glue.u will most likely need a couple clamps however if they are "split" while the glue set up and cures.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
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OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
Tightbond in any formula or Elmers carpenters glue, if split then clamp, if veneer is peeling work glue underneath with a tooth pick and tape veneer down over the right angle edges with blue tape, if veneer bubbling in center then split bubble with razor glue it with tooth pick cover with waxed paper and weight it down. Do not use hot glue, post photos of damage if possible.Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.
Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's. -
I used Elmer's wood glue you don't want to glue them super strong in case you decide to redo them later.POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
Thanks for suggestions.
It's not split.
It just came un-glued on top and some sides.
Here is a pic of what I'm talking about:
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
I see and it look to be the fabric and then the fabric covered panel to the case of the speaker. Hot glue may now be my choice as it is usually removable and will stick to anything but it is very fast so be prepared with the little spring clamps for the fabric and once it sets do a dry run on clamping the repaired panel back onto the case. You may be able to turn the speaker on its side/back,use a little piece of wood and weight it down with a 12 pack or something.:razz:Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.
Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's. -
My SDA1C were like that and the fabric was coming loose. I used regular old wood glue.
I pulled the panel completly off with 4" wide putty knife ( slowly do not bend or tweak) glued the fabric back down used a bunch of binder clips to hold the fabric till dry then glued the panel back on and got some phone books for weight.POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
Thanks for suggestions.
I'll see what is easy to do for them.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
I used Liquid Nails Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive... out of a caulk type gun. And LOTS of weight overnight. But my project was an extreme makeover in which the entire side panels, the fabric and the wood, both came off.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?138538-SDA-SRS-2-need-CPR-and-ICU-life-support
If its releasing that easy, instead of trying to force a little bit of glue in at the top, and likely making a mess, can you remove the entire panel, scrape it clean of any old glue and glue it right with fresh glue all around? Otherwise you're going to end up with new glue on the top 10% and 25 year old glue on the other 90% that will fail...when?
If you do think about this route, listen to Polkieman...he knows! Make sure you can get the entire panel off in one piece, without breaking it. Otherwise you'll be making a new panel out of new wood, covered, etc. Been there done that... added a few extras days I wasn't planning on. Pics of fiasco at link above.
Good luck! -
It's only unglued on top 1 foot or so and I think trying to take the panel off is too risky.
I'll try to squeeze glue to as much surface as I can so that top portion sticks to the cabinet.
Bottom part is solid and I'll do more harm prying it off.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Yes, the panels break pretty easy coming off. Don't chance it if its not coming off in multiple places.
When gluing just a portion then, it'd be a shame to get glue on the fabric. I'd insert the edge of a large piece of paper (full width of panel) about an inch in between panel and speaker, and leave most of it hanging out, and fold it over the fabric. Then apply the glue behind the paper, so that the paper is shielding the fabric. Then take a piece of heavier stock paper (but still bendable) like a business card, and use it as a tool to force the glue as far down as you can. Then finally remove the paper barrier last before pressing together and apply LOTS of weight overnight. Good luck! -
Yea get you a 12 thin plastic ruler hold it up a bit with a plastic putty knife or the kitchen spatula put glue on the ruler and side it in as far as you can then let it down as you pull the ruler out .POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
I have enough speakers to use as weight for pressing the panel.
I knew too many speakers have some advantages.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Haha... I knew there had to be another reason out there to justify getting more speakers! Wait until I tell her I need a few more pairs to use for weight.
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Use blue tape to protect the fabric work quickly with the hot glue as it sets fast, just keep steady pressure on it for a minute or two. Wood glue can be runny and messy and almost never cleans completely out of fabric.Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.
Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's. -
Harbor Freight has cheap clamps
http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-bar-clamp-96213.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-ratchet-bar-clamp-spreader-46809.htmlPOLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1 -
Clamps come in handy for other things. If you don't have any, wouldn't hurt to pick some up. That said, the Harbor Freight clamps in that second link are junk. I had a number of them which I bought during one of their sales & most of them have broken. If you do get those, be sure not to try & tighten them super tight or the racheting mechanism will strip out & they'll no longer clamp tight. The Irwin Quick Grip versions of those are quality tools, but will set you back some.
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+1 on the Irwin clamps. Have used these on my speakers and many other projects over the years.Yep, my name really is Bob.
Parasound HCA1500A(indoor sound) and HCA1000(outdoor sound), Dynaco PAS4, Denon DP1200 w/Shure V15 Type V and Jico SAS stylus, Marantz UD7007, Polk L600, Rythmik L12 sub. -
DON'T BUY CHEAP TOOLS AS THEY WILL COMPROMISE YOUR WORK. :evil:Main Family Room: Sony 46 LCD, Sony Blue Ray, Sony DVD/VCR combo,Onkyo TXNR 708, Parasound 5250,
Polk SDS-SRS with mods, CSI 5 center + Klipsch SC2, Polk RT2000P rears, Klipsch KG 1.5's sides, Polk Micro Pro 1000, Polk Micro Pro 2000, Polk SW505, Belkin PF60, Signal Cable Classics,Monster IC's, 2 15 amp circuits & 1 20 amp circuit.
Living Room: Belkin PF60, Parasound HCA2200, MIT ProlineEXP balanced IC's,Emotiva XDA-1 DAC/Pre,Emotiva ERC2 transport,MIT AVT2, Polk LSI 9's.