SDA 1's blowing 1a fuses?

newby
newby Posts: 5
edited October 2012 in Vintage Speakers
I just purchased these.
The previous owner says he found them blown.
I get to enjoy them for awhile, the discover one or both fuse gone?

I drive them w/ a Bryston 4b st.

Thanks
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2012
    newby wrote: »
    I just purchased these.
    The previous owner says he found them blown.
    I get to enjoy them for awhile, the discover one or both fuse gone?

    I drive them w/ a Bryston 4b st.

    Thanks

    You need to ask a specific question here - can't tell what you want :question:
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • Phasewolf
    Phasewolf Posts: 514
    edited October 2012
    Are you talking about the poly switches for the tweeters?
    Absolute corruption empowers absolutely.

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  • newby
    newby Posts: 5
    edited October 2012
    The 1A fuses for both speakers keep blowing?
    I assume they are for the tweaters?
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  • newby
    newby Posts: 5
    edited October 2012
    I am hoping to discover if there are other caises to blown fuses than over driving the speakers.
    Thx.
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  • newby
    newby Posts: 5
    edited October 2012
    I discovered by reading here that these speakers of mine are SDA 1A signature model.
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  • hewlew1
    hewlew1 Posts: 154
    edited October 2012
    You talk about overdriving the speakers, just how loud are you playing these when the fuse blows? If you play them at a moderate level is there any sign of distortion coming from the speakers?
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited October 2012
    If you list the equipment you are using to drive these speakers that would help us to help you.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,561
    edited October 2012
    I drive them w/ a Bryston 4b st.

    IIRC, that is a dual mono amp and you cannot use dual mono, mono block or non-common ground amps with your speakers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited October 2012
    The 4B ST is common ground,with the grounds already strapped internally,so SDA safe.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,561
    edited October 2012
    I didn't recall correctly, thanks.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited October 2012
    You're blowing 1 amp fuses in your 1A Signature speakers?

    Is 1 amp the correct rating for that fuse? Are they fast-blow or slow-blow fuses? Do you have the correct kind?

    "I" would re-cap the crossover, and test the tweeters along with the other drivers, and verify the wiring isn't screwed up. The OEM caps are long past their expected service life anyway. Wouldn't surprise me that defective caps, or defective tweeters are the primary cause of the fuse problems IF (big IF) you're using the correct fuses.
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  • newby
    newby Posts: 5
    edited October 2012
    1 amp fast blow is the fuse specified here in this forum. I buy the fuses at the hardware store?
    Are there more specific fuses needed?
    I am curious how to test the tweeters? As I said earlier, they play for awhile before blowing.
    I tend to play the volume level where the mid drivers are just beginning to move.

    Thanks for the assistance.
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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited October 2012
    newby wrote: »
    1 amp fast blow is the fuse specified here in this forum. I buy the fuses at the hardware store?
    Are there more specific fuses needed?
    Probably not.
    newby wrote: »
    I am curious how to test the tweeters? As I said earlier, they play for awhile before blowing.
    I'd connect 'em to an ohmmeter. Should be "about" 6 ohms, I'm thinking. That's by no means a conclusive test...but it's simple and easy.
    newby wrote: »
    I tend to play the volume level where the mid drivers are just beginning to move.
    Less than 1/4 of a watt should make the mid-woofers move. Are you saying the mid-woofers don't work unless the volume is turned up? How are you judging "movement"? By eye or by feel or by sound?

    Your amp outputs something like 200--250 watts into 8 ohms; and is known for quality. Those speakers should be able to accept more power than that on peaks. Unless you're playing loud as hell, there's something wrong. Possible defective amp???

    If the crossovers in the speakers haven't been rebuilt, they're known defective. Service life expired about a decade ago--or more.

    Do you still pop fuses if the SDA interconnect cable is disconnected?
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