For anyone with SDAs who hasn't Dynamatted and Armaflexed their MWs and PRs, do it!

Dawgfish

Hi all. I Dynamatted and Armaflexed my MWs and PRs on my SRS 2s this weekend. The difference in sound was immediately noticable. The bass really tightened up and the imaging improved a great deal. I listen to a lot of old-school jazz with stand up acoustical bass. Acoustical and fret-less bass guitars are always tough for speakers to get right. The SRS 2s get these instuments right now after the Dynamat and Armeflex mod. Detail has picked up across the range appreciably also. This is a very worthwhile mod. It was easy to do. I bought a good deal of extra gadgets and tools, but one could easily pick up the Dynamatt and Armaflex for about $40. I also JB Welded the MWs. The whole process took about 2.5 hours to do. For anyone out there that has been thinking about doing this, or maybe thought it wasn't worthwhile, all I can say is do it! I can't think of another $40 mod that has made a bigger difference. This weekend I'm going to spike the SRSs and put some JW Audio speaker jumpers on them. I can't wait to hear that.

soundfreak1

+1000

Mr. Bubbles

I don't suppose you took any internal pictures/ measurements of the cabinets while you were in there?

Dawgfish

Sorry I didn't. I plan on rebuilding the crossovers in the not too distant future though, so I will gladly do so then if you like. Sorry, I was so anxious to hear the mods I kind of barrelled my way through it.

Mystery

Will any Dynamat work for this or has to be specific model?
I'm thinking about getting xtreme wedge pack.
http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10425-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Xtreme/dp/B00020CAVA

nhhiep

is there a DIY guide for these?

teekay0007

Mystery wrote: »

Will any Dynamat work for this or has to be specific model?
I'm thinking about getting xtreme wedge pack.
http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10425-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Xtreme/dp/B00020CAVA

The consensus around here seems to be that it has to be the Dynamat Xtreme (vs. the standard Dynamat). Wedge pak (4 sq. ft.) is available (has 2 of 4 left) on Ebay now for $24.50 shipped - "Brand new, in original box": http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360467543141

Not affiliated - I bought one myself.

teekay0007

Dawgfish wrote: »

Hi all. I Dynamatted and Armaflexed my MWs and PRs on my SRS 2s this weekend. The difference in sound was immediately noticable. The bass really tightened up and the imaging improved a great deal. I listen to a lot of old-school jazz with stand up acoustical bass. Acoustical and fret-less bass guitars are always tough for speakers to get right. The SRS 2s get these instuments right now after the Dynamat and Armeflex mod. Detail has picked up across the range appreciably also. This is a very worthwhile mod. It was easy to do. I bought a good deal of extra gadgets and tools, but one could easily pick up the Dynamatt and Armaflex for about $40. I also JB Welded the MWs. The whole process took about 2.5 hours to do. For anyone out there that has been thinking about doing this, or maybe thought it wasn't worthwhile, all I can say is do it! I can't think of another $40 mod that has made a bigger difference. This weekend I'm going to spike the SRSs and put some JW Audio speaker jumpers on them. I can't wait to hear that.

SO glad to hear this as I have some Dynamat Xtreme on order right now, am planning on getting some Armaflex sometime this week and I'm down to picking between a few last sets of spikes - all for my SDA-2Bs and Monitor 10Bs (less the spikes).

How much Dynamat did you need for your SRS 2s? Did you do just the spokes on your PRs, or did you do the back end ring also? Did you need any special tools (cutter? or roller?) for application?

Where do you get the Armacell? Is it available at Home Depot, Menards, etc.? What size strips of Armacell did you use and was it available in that size or did you have to cut it? Lastly, are you going to Armacell your binding post cups and your tweeters?

Dawgfish

I used Dynamat Exteme. The 4 sq ft package listed above is plenty to get the job done. I bought mine from my local BestBuy for $29.99. Check out the "All of the SDA mods in one place" thread sticky here in the vintage speaker section for a DIY guide. It's quite easy. A roll of Armeflex can be bought for $7.99 from your local Home Depot and it's very easy to cut and put in place also. The whole process was easier and smoother than I thought it was going to be.

Dawgfish

teekay0007 wrote: »

SO glad to hear this as I have some Dynamat Xtreme on order right now, am planning on getting some Armaflex sometime this week and I'm down to picking between a few last sets of spikes - all for my SDA-2Bs and Monitor 10Bs (less the spikes).

How much Dynamat did you need for your SRS 2s? Did you do just the spokes on your PRs, or did you do the back end ring also? Did you need any special tools (cutter? or roller?) for application?

Where do you get the Armacell? Is it available at Home Depot, Menards, etc.? What size strips of Armacell did you use and was it available in that size or did you have to cut it? Lastly, are you going to Armacell your binding post cups and your tweeters?

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier, I missed it for some reason. I would say I only used about 40-45% of the 4 sq ft Dynamat Sheet. I Dynamatted the spokes and the back end ring on the PRs. Quite honestly the stuff cuts quite easily using a good quality set of scissors. I used a set of titanium coated scissors and it cut like poster board! The Dynamatt is self adhering and has the consistancy of modeling clay. You just press it on and form it with your fingers. I just put the Dynamat up to the spokes and eyeballed cutting it and it worked fine.

You can find a 30 ft roll of Armaflex at Home Depot for $7.99. The roll I bought was about 1.5 inches wide I would estimate. I cut it to about 3/8" thick and simply placed it on the back of the speaker basket lip surface. The Armeflex is self-sticking and goes on very easy and is very easy to bend and shape. It really went on like a dream. I wish I would have done this sooner to other sets of vintage Polks I've had in the past. I probably will Armacell the binding post cups, but I'm not sure yet on the tweets. I may go with one of Brgmans gaskets on the tweets. The Armaflex compressed down quite easily, but I'm not sure how it will do with the tweets. Hope this helps.

Dawgfish

Smallies wrote: »

Great post. I must conclude I mean begin my sw-120-vs-sw-122 test before i break out the Dynamat.

Thanks Smallies. I just thought everyone should know how easy this was and how much of a difference it makes. For the $ and effort, this one is a no-brainer.

teekay0007

Dawgfish wrote: »

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier, I missed it for some reason. I would say I only used about 40-45% of the 4 sq ft Dynamat Sheet. I Dynamatted the spokes and the back end ring on the PRs. Quite honestly the stuff cuts quite easily using a good quality set of scissors. I used a set of titanium coated scissors and it cut like poster board! The Dynamatt is self adhering and has the consistancy of modeling clay. You just press it on and form it with your fingers. I just put the Dynamat up to the spokes and eyeballed cutting it and it worked fine.

You can find a 30 ft roll of Armaflex at Home Depot for $7.99. The roll I bought was about 1.5 inches wide I would estimate. I cut it to about 3/8" thick and simply placed it on the back of the speaker basket lip surface. The Armeflex is self-sticking and goes on very easy and is very easy to bend and shape. It really went on like a dream. I wish I would have done this sooner to other sets of vintage Polks I've had in the past. I probably will Armacell the binding post cups, but I'm not sure yet on the tweets. I may go with one of Brgmans gaskets on the tweets. The Armaflex compressed down quite easily, but I'm not sure how it will do with the tweets. Hope this helps.

Quite helpful info, Dawgfish, thank you. Somewhere, DarqueKnight posted about using Armacell for tweeter gaskets and, if I remember right, he had some pretty favorable (and elaborately presented :cheesygrin:) results. Sorry, I can't find the link just now, I never get the search engine here to work very well for me.

Good luck with getting the SRS 2s spiked - do post to let us know what you think of the results. Some pics would be nice too. :biggrin: I'm undecided on whether I will replace the fiber board pedestal on my SDA-2B Studios with ones made of hardwood, prior to spiking them, or if I should just go ahead and put the spikes into the fiber board pedestal.

F1nut

I'm undecided on whether I will replace the fiber board pedestal on my SDA-2B Studios with ones made of hardwood, prior to spiking them, or if I should just go ahead and put the spikes into the fiber board pedestal.

Put the spikes into the actual cabinet. I used 2" tall spikes from Adona to make up for the 1" loss from the removed platform and add an inch to get the tweeter a bit closer to ear level, worked like a dream. Make sure to fill the screw holes if you remove the platform.

PolkMaster1

I am still a big fan of mortite, since I applied it to my speakers 2 years ago. I only found out about armaflex recently. Has anyone compared armaflex vs. mortite vs. brgmans gaskets?

teekay0007

PolkMaster1 wrote: »

I am still a big fan of mortite, since I applied it to my speakers 2 years ago. I only found out about armaflex recently. Has anyone compared armaflex vs. mortite vs. brgmans gaskets?

Yeah, DarqueKnight did an incredible and highly detailed comparison of original gaskets to Mortite and Armaflex:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?123136-SDA-Driver-Seals-Original-Foam-vs.-Mortite-vs.-Armaflex-Foam


And here's a thread of some people's opinions of brgman's gaskets vs. Mortite:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?132007-Brgman-s-gaskets-or-Mortite

F1nut

I still mantain that if your original gaskets are in good condition, you do not need to change them. What you should do, is install a complete set of Larry's rings or at the very least install hurricane nuts. With either of those installed, you could probably get away without any gasket material.

HollowState

Got a ton of Dynamat Xtreme from a previous auto audio project. Was wondering if I could ever find a use for it. Yay!! Great forum and information!

Saftgeek

would have loved to seen pics of this mod. I completely understand the urge to do the work without messing with taking pics though. I would love to see your mod of the crossovers. I'd like to see what you bought and where. I'd also like to see the removal job. So many small details seem to get left out, with the exception of Mr. DarqueKnight's posts. I am a big fan of his tinkering.

Thank you for sharing. I will most definately have to include this on my list.

-Saftgeek

mesquitehead

Did the dynamat extreme on the woofer swap for my LSi15's and it was simple, hard to guage the improvement as the woofers were new as well but they sound a lot better than they did with he original woofers. Looks like I'll be doing the SDA's next. Ah, also did the dynamat on the ports in the 15's. Good info on the SDA studios as well my original factory bases are long gone and I've often wondered about building new ones or just putting feet or spikes on them, they are on hardwood floors so I was thinking rubber feet. Luckily I have a bulk case of dynamat extreme left over from my truck install.

Spiffyfast

I'm actually planning to install a set of Larry's rings as well as dynamiting my SDA-2Bs this weekend. I can take pictures and document if anybody is interested? This will be my first step in my upgrade .. Plan on upgrading the tweeters, crossovers, binding posts, and adding spikes. Never rebuilt a pair of speakers before so this should be a fun project.

GospelTruth

Spiffyfast wrote: »

I'm actually planning to install a set of Larry's rings as well as dynamiting my SDA-2Bs this weekend. I can take pictures and document if anybody is interested? This will be my first step in my upgrade .. Plan on upgrading the tweeters, crossovers, binding posts, and adding spikes. Never rebuilt a pair of speakers before so this should be a fun project.

I made a post taking pictures of this when I did my 2Bs as well, but for some reason during the upgrade of the Polk website my images were no longer visible on the post. I may try re-posting again with the images. I would also suggest that you use JB Weld to secure the magnets on the drivers and Armacell to replace the original foam gaskets. Not that you need to do either, but I did them both as everything was already dismantled. You should definitely notice an upgrade in the speakers performance after doing your upgrades, I know I did. If you get stuck on anything or have questions while doing the upgrades send me a PM. You shouldn't though as it should be fairly straight forward.

Michael