Lookin' for that PUNCH!

ROHfan
ROHfan Posts: 1,014
edited April 2012 in Speakers
I recently hooked up my old ADS L810s to my HK3490 and wow! I'm a little embarrassed to say they almost sound better than my M60s. What they have that the M60s don't have is that punch factor to them. The music literally makes a physical impact that I can feel. I first noticed it on "FM" by Steely Dan with the snare hits. It's kind of a cool effect but I can only wonder why I can't get that with the M60s. Maybe its their smaller driver size not being able to move enough air? Anyways this got me to thinking about upgrading to speaks with more punch. I want to keep cost down but I'd be interested to hear feedback from anyone who has M70s as they may be in my near future.
TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
Post edited by ROHfan on

Comments

  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited April 2012
    It can be all sorts of factors, crossover, drivers, general design, placement. Some speakers just don't have it. You'd probably like the Lsi9, it's got a lot of that foundational "drive" to it.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,011
    edited April 2012
    Thats why some of us say go big or go home. Big speakers, or smaller speakers with a good sub will make you feel stuff that you haven't felt since the last time you were in a strip club.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • Lietuvis91
    Lietuvis91 Posts: 908
    edited April 2012
    Your findings don't surprise me. I have noticed speakers with smaller woofers are more precise at reproducing sound, but not quiet so good at depth. Cabinet size has a lot to do with this of course, but this is true in the context of the monitor line. You should realize that you are comparing a speaker with 3x5.25 inch drivers vs a preaker with 2x8inch drivers. That is a very big difference. M60s are not know for expectional low end and it seems to me were intended to be used with a sub. And in combination with a good sub they sound great IMO. Therefore, my suggestion would be that you get a nice 8 or 10 inch sub for the punch you're missing. Otherwise, get different speakers that have at least 1 8inch woofer. The m70s are better than m60s in the punch department, but in your case not enough to warrant that move.
    Living Room 7.1 HT Rig:

    M70 | CS2 | M60 | Atrium5 - Surr. | SUB - Emotiva ULTRA12 + Tara Labs sub cable | Pioneer Elite VSX-52 | Parasound HCAs 1000A | Sony BDP-S790 | Belkin PureAV PF60 | MIT Exp2 Wires

    Bedroom 5.0 HT Rig (Music/Movies/Gaming) :

    LSi9 | LsiC | Lsi/fx | Marantz SR7002 | NAD T955 | Sony BDP-S360 | Belkin PureAV PF30 | AQ Blue Racer II ICs & AQ Type 4 wires | PS3
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited April 2012
    A single 8" Driver's area about that same as 2 6" drivers. That said 3 5 1/4 may be close to an 8" but may lack other electro-mechanialcharacteristics.

    Shalom , Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • organ
    organ Posts: 4,969
    edited April 2012
    Try out some Klipsch towers from the Reference line. Punch, dynamics and live sound is what Klipsch is known for. If you have the room, a pair of speakers from the Heritage line will blow your socks off (La Scala or Cornwall).

    tonyb wrote: »
    Thats why some of us say go big or go home. Big speakers, or smaller speakers with a good sub will make you feel stuff that you haven't felt since the last time you were in a strip club.

    LMFAO:cheesygrin::cheesygrin::cheesygrin:
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    edited April 2012
    I ran the M50's for awhile with an HK avr240. Nothing went too deep, but they sounded clear and open. Mids and highs were punchy. I hooked the 70's up to the avr and I didn't have that clear, open sound. It was a bit muddy.

    I then hooked the 70's up to the HK 3490 and they sounded better.

    A couple weeks ago I got an amp and then it was like, wow, with the 70's. It was like a new speaker. Low end was where I noticed the most difference.

    I don't know if that helps at all, but I guess I'm saying I really didn't get the most out of (especially the low end) of my 70's until I got the amp hooked up.
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • breal74
    breal74 Posts: 324
    edited April 2012
    tonyb wrote: »
    Thats why some of us say go big or go home. Big speakers, or smaller speakers with a good sub will make you feel stuff that you haven't felt since the last time you were in a strip club.
    That is the greatest thing I have heard in a while! My wife thought it was funny too.:biggrin:
  • ROHfan
    ROHfan Posts: 1,014
    edited April 2012
    Thanks to all for the input! I should have noted that I am using the M60s with a Bic F12 sub. But even that combination didn't compare to the ADS and that's without a sub. I'm actually putting some thought into refinishing the L810s, building stands for them and selling the M60s. They sound that good.
    TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
    AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited April 2012
    I will add some truth to this thread. I love Polk speakers but you could never compare the new monitor series to ADS speakers. They aren't even in the same galaxy.

    To the OP, Fix up them ADS. You would need to jump to the LSiM series to get that ADS sound out of a newer speaker with the current Polk line.

    I also don't like using a sub with 2ch. You can get them to blend well enough, but unless you cross the sub over at 100+ hz you will never have the punch that a good set of towers can provide. Nothing against those of you that like it I just don't.
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited April 2012
    Subs don't do punch, in the sense of midrange drive energy. That's where alot of people mess-up, thinking adding a sub will provide punch. If your sub is crossed over high enough that it's producing punch, your likely stepping all over your main speakers upper bass region, causing muddy or thick bass.

    My Harbeth/SVS combo is working our great---but the harbeths already have impact/drive in spades, I just had to be careful to not ruin their strengths with the sub. It's all about proper integration, and running your sub for extension; not "wow" factor.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,989
    edited April 2012
    The L-810 is a superb and very neutral loudspeaker (I've gotta admit, I actually slightly prefer the L-710, but that's mostly because I own a pair of those!). One would have to spend thousands (e.g., the aforementioned Harbeths) to better them today.
  • ROHfan
    ROHfan Posts: 1,014
    edited April 2012
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    To the OP, Fix up them ADS. You would need to jump to the LSiM series to get that ADS sound out of a newer speaker with the current Polk line.

    This. The LSiM's are nowhere within my budget so I'm gonna go with the ADS. Does anyone think a cap upgrade would be a good idea? And what about refinishing options for the cabs?
    TV: 65" Samsung QLED 4K
    Fronts: Energy RC70 --- Center: Energy RC-LCR
    Front Heights: Polk RC65i --- Rears: Polk RC85i --- Sub: Power Sound Audio XS15
    Pioneer VSX-1120K --- Parasound HCA-1000A --- Oppo BDP-103
    Vincent Audio SA31 preamp --- Teac UD301 DAC
    AIYIMA Tube T7 preamp --- Nobsound 12AX7 tube preamplifier
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited April 2012
    Any speaker in the 20yr age bracket deserves a cap updating in my book. I have done caps on almost all of the old speakers I have owned. It brings back the clarity and gets things back within spec.

    I would suggest caps for starters. You could also upgrade the inductors if you really want to throw some money at them.

    Let me suggest Clarity Caps or Sonicaps for the crossovers as well.

    As far as refinishing goes. I am not the guy to talk too. F1 and a few others are much better at that then I.
  • Lietuvis91
    Lietuvis91 Posts: 908
    edited April 2012
    This is really an apples to orages comparison. The monitor line seems like it's attempting to be a "do all" line, but you can clearly tell from their design (size of cabinet and size of drivers used) that the primary focus is HT. And HT they do well. The intent of the ADS speaker that the OP has is the exact opposite. This is a 2 ch music speaker, which can work in a HT setup, but that is not it's main design purpose.

    If you need a dual purpose system, monitors can be made to work satisfactorily. But for a 2 ch music system, I would not chose anything in that line of speakers.
    Living Room 7.1 HT Rig:

    M70 | CS2 | M60 | Atrium5 - Surr. | SUB - Emotiva ULTRA12 + Tara Labs sub cable | Pioneer Elite VSX-52 | Parasound HCAs 1000A | Sony BDP-S790 | Belkin PureAV PF60 | MIT Exp2 Wires

    Bedroom 5.0 HT Rig (Music/Movies/Gaming) :

    LSi9 | LsiC | Lsi/fx | Marantz SR7002 | NAD T955 | Sony BDP-S360 | Belkin PureAV PF30 | AQ Blue Racer II ICs & AQ Type 4 wires | PS3
  • bansheesho
    bansheesho Posts: 227
    edited April 2012
    A single 8" Driver's area about that same as 2 6" drivers. That said 3 5 1/4 may be close to an 8" but may lack other electro-mechanialcharacteristics.

    So potentialy the kef q900s I just ordered could move twice as much air as the m60s they are replacing?
    Pioneer SC-25 | Adcom GFA-555 | KEF q900 Front | KEF q600 Center | Polk Monitor 30 Rear | Polk CS2 Rear Surround | Polk DSWPRO 660wi sub
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,217
    edited April 2012
    I would hope the ADS L810's sounded better than Polk M60's. They aren't in the same league, with the ADS being a lot better. Not a fair comparison. The LSi's would be a modern day equivalent to compare to the ADS.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Lietuvis91
    Lietuvis91 Posts: 908
    edited April 2012
    heiney9 wrote: »
    I would hope the ADS L810's sounded better than Polk M60's. They aren't in the same league, with the ADS being a lot better. Not a fair comparison. The LSi's would be a modern day equivalent to compare to the ADS.

    H9

    I wouldn't rush to compare the l810s with lsi either. You are still talking about a completely different shape and size of the speaker enclosure, not to mention it's still 5.25 inch woofers vs 8 inch woofers. Nothing really comperable between these speakers. Different speakers for different intended purposes.

    If you want to rock out to music, you need big drivers and in big enclosures. If you want precition of sound, you need smaller drivers, which can therefore be placed in a smaller enclosure, and have a more esthetic look in your living room.

    The old monitor 10 or 7 speakers would be a much more comperable speaker to this ADS. All these other comparisons you guys are making are monster trucks vs ferraris. Just two different animals.
    Living Room 7.1 HT Rig:

    M70 | CS2 | M60 | Atrium5 - Surr. | SUB - Emotiva ULTRA12 + Tara Labs sub cable | Pioneer Elite VSX-52 | Parasound HCAs 1000A | Sony BDP-S790 | Belkin PureAV PF60 | MIT Exp2 Wires

    Bedroom 5.0 HT Rig (Music/Movies/Gaming) :

    LSi9 | LsiC | Lsi/fx | Marantz SR7002 | NAD T955 | Sony BDP-S360 | Belkin PureAV PF30 | AQ Blue Racer II ICs & AQ Type 4 wires | PS3