Lord of the Rings: 'Limited Extended Edition' - Blu Ray

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Comments

  • Strong Bad
    Strong Bad Posts: 4,278
    edited July 2011
    Ron-P wrote: »
    There is no "green tint" problem.


    The way all the AV reviewers are talking, I wholly expected to see an annoying green tint. It's not there! During some of the shots in the Shire in Fellowship, there's alot of green due to trees and grass, which appear to be a bit saturated, but this tint to the overall picture is just not there.

    My Panny Plasma was calibrated using the latest Blu Ray calibration disc, so it's right on.

    The picture quality of the extended set is right on and where it should be! Buy the set and enjoy! It's quite awesome!
    No excuses!
  • stuwee
    stuwee Posts: 1,508
    edited July 2011
    So last night, while we were watching The Two Towers, my picture gradually got more and more dim. Tonight, we were watching Return Of The King... and right when Gollum hits the lava and the ring starts to sink, POP!

    R.I.P. Epson 8500UB bulb. You provided 2,782 hours of entertainment. And thanks to the fine folks at Epson, your replacement is already on its way.

    Whoa! that would've freaked me out man...bakedsmiley7xx.gif

    :biggrin: :smile: :cool: :tongue:
    Thorens TD125MKII, SME3009,Shure V15/ Teac V-8000S, Denon DN-790R cass, Teac 3340 RtR decks, Onix CD2...Sumo Electra Plus pre>SAE A1001 amp>Martin Logan Summit's
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited July 2011
    Got the new bulb in, re-checked gamut and calibration with my EyeOne Display LT, and threw Fellowship back in. I understand that people were complaining about the green tint, but honestly, I don't see it in practice. In fact, the scenes that they're talking about all look vastly better to me with the new color timing. Can't help but wonder if it's a difference between the screen-caps being done at RGB-video levels vs. the levels HDMI uses. Either way, the EE Blu-rays look AMAZING, and that whole thing was WAY overblown.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited July 2011
    This set is NOT letterbox, correct? I don't want any more letterbox movies with my 16:9 screen - too much wasted space.
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited July 2011
    The set is correctly presented in its 2.35:1 aspect ratio, as it was exhibited in theaters. Trimming it down to 16:9 doesn't remove "wasted space" on your screen... It crops off parts of the movie that the cinematographer and director meant you to see and completely ruins the composition of the shots.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited July 2011
    I think I explained this wrong....I have a 16:9 widescreen. When letterbox movies are viewed on the screen, there are black bars above and below the picture on the screen surface...this is what I am referring to as wasted space.
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited July 2011
    Amazon currently has this in stock for $69
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited July 2011
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    I think I explained this wrong....I have a 16:9 widescreen. When letterbox movies are viewed on the screen, there are black bars above and below the picture on the screen surface...this is what I am referring to as wasted space.

    No, I knew what you meant. On a 16:9 (1.85:1) ratio screen, scope ratio movies shot in 2.35:1 have black bars at the top and bottom to preserve the aspect ratio they have in the theater. Lord Of The Rings was 2.35:1 in the theater, and therefore has black bars at the top and bottom on Blu-ray on a 16:9 screen. This isn't wasted space... It's necessary to show ALL of the movie that was shot. If they lose the black bars, they have to zoom and pan-and-scan across the 2.35:1 image, which throws away about 30% of the image that they shot.

    So you either have black bars... or you lose the image the director intended. I'll take the black bars all day long over destroying the director's intended image and ruining the cinematography.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • pdxfj
    pdxfj Posts: 376
    edited July 2011
    Pan and scan sucked in the 4:3 days and still sucks today.

    Black bars don't bother me nor do the movies that switch between "scope" and 16:9 (Tron Legacy, Dark Knight, etc).
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited July 2011
    No, I knew what you meant. On a 16:9 (1.85:1) ratio screen, scope ratio movies shot in 2.35:1 have black bars at the top and bottom to preserve the aspect ratio they have in the theater. Lord Of The Rings was 2.35:1 in the theater, and therefore has black bars at the top and bottom on Blu-ray on a 16:9 screen. This isn't wasted space... It's necessary to show ALL of the movie that was shot. If they lose the black bars, they have to zoom and pan-and-scan across the 2.35:1 image, which throws away about 30% of the image that they shot.

    So you either have black bars... or you lose the image the director intended. I'll take the black bars all day long over destroying the director's intended image and ruining the cinematography.

    So, what are your thoughts on adding an anamorphic lens to a PJ?
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited July 2011
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    So, what are your thoughts on adding an anamorphic lens to a PJ?

    If you have the room to pull off a CIH setup with a 2.35:1 screen, more power to you. For me, the contrast ratio of my projector is good enough that the black bars don't bother me (and I still get a massive picture).
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,119
    edited July 2011
    That is what I love about my Pioneer Kuro Plasma...in a dark room with a properly calibrated picture, you can not see the black bars...they just fade into the room. All you see is picture. Really amazing.
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited July 2011
    Yeah, that's one of the advantages of plasma sets. Projectors are a different beast entirely. My Sanyo PLV-Z2000 was way more noticeable with letterboxing than with my Epson 8500UB... but regardless, I would never want them to change the aspect ratio of a movie on Blu-ray from its intended theatrical aspect ratio.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,059
    edited July 2011
    Last night I popped in Godfather 2 DVD which was the "widescreen" version, but no black bars, and I even flipped through all the aspect ratios of the PJ for kicks, and none showed the bars...which confused me, which is quite easy sometimes (?)
  • tommyboy
    tommyboy Posts: 1,414
    edited July 2011
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    Last night I popped in Godfather 2 DVD which was the "widescreen" version, but no black bars, and I even flipped through all the aspect ratios of the PJ for kicks, and none showed the bars...which confused me, which is quite easy sometimes (?)

    You have to look at the dvd. Movies (basically) come in three different ratios... 2.35:1 (what you seen with LOTR), 1.85:1 (basically 16:9 widescreen), and 1.33:1 ("fullscreen"). What you seen with godfather was 1.85:1. What aspect ratio a movie is all depends on the movies creators, but most of the big budget movies will be 2.35:1 ratio when you buy the widescreen version.

    I remember years back my uncle got a HDTV and couldn't grasp the idea of widescreen movies haha. He would come over my place and be so confused I had all widescreen movies. "but you don't have a widescreen tv, why would you want to see black bars? I still don't buy widescreen movies since some still show those black bars" My reply to him would be a b#tch slap in the face :tongue:
    AVR: H/K AVR240
    Fronts: Monitor 50s
    Center: CSI3
    surrounds: R15s
    Sub:Velodyne DPS10
    Dvd/Cd: Samsung HD upconverter (for now)
    TV: 50" Sammy Plasma
    game hardware: 360 and gcn.
    Gamertag: kovster27
  • dpowell
    dpowell Posts: 3,068
    edited July 2011
    For what it's worth, when it came time to replace the bulb in my Mitsubishi projector, I decided to give a company called purlandsupply.com a try. They had a generic replacement for $100 less than the mfr replacment bulb. Not sure if this would hold true for other brands but I currently have 4,300 hours on what should be a 2,000 - 3,000 hour bulb. The lamp is not as strong as when it was new but is still doing much better than the MFR lamp was at 3,000 hours.

    The only thing I didn't like about the generic replacement is that it came in a cheaper housing but with their permission (not voiding the warranty), I moved the lamp into the original lamp housing that came from Mitsubishi and all is well.

    No affiliation but hopefully it saves someone some $$.
    ____________________________________________________________

    polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited July 2011
    Yeah, Purelandsupply is where I got a bulb for my Sanyo PLV-Z2000 and it lasted well beyond its 3,000 hour rating. I would have bought the bulb for my Epson from there, but fortunately, Epson replaced it under warranty.
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • jkg123
    jkg123 Posts: 114
    edited July 2011
    This will definitely be added to the collection.