Building a set of SDA's

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  • Polkersince85
    Polkersince85 Posts: 2,883
    edited September 2010
    Here's a list of drivers and crossover parts:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35349&d=1220811206

    The 2B and CRS+ use the same Xover. Good luck finding MW6510s and 11s.
    >
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited September 2010
    IF you are going to do it, do it right.

    First, read this entire post about Ben's FrankenPolks . . . http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53273

    He's probably got 4,000 hours of speaker building experimentation under his belt.

    Then, realize that even Ben will admit tweaked SDA SRS 1.2TL's probably sound better.

    But, you should go for it because you will learn a lot and have the satisfaction of having done it "your way".
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,217
    edited September 2010
    Polkersince85 wrote: »
    Here's a list of drivers and crossover parts:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=35349&d=1220811206

    The 2B and CRS+ use the same Xover. Good luck finding MW6510s and 11s.

    Not all 2B's use the CRS+ crossover. That's a good general parts list but not close to be comprehensive because x-generational models had a lot of parts bin stuff in them to use up parts.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • backinthelou
    backinthelou Posts: 36
    edited September 2010
    heiney9 wrote: »
    You really don't want 2A's. If you're going to spend the sweat and money you'd be better of with a TL'd pair of Pin/Blade 2B's. That is the most desirable SDA 2 model.

    H9

    I think mine are 2A's. What is TL'd? I've searched and it seems that the cross overs are upgraded.
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited September 2010
    backinthelou wrote: »
    I think mine are 2A's. What is TL'd? I've searched and it seems that the cross overs are upgraded.

    Seems to be confusion here, but all SDA 1B's, 2A's, 2B's, all but the 1984 model of CRS, and the 1986 Blade/Blade SDA SRS 2 can be TL'd (meaning modified to use the RDO198-1 / SL3000 instead of the RDO194-1 / SL2000 tweeter) with the addition of a single 5.6 uf cap in each crossover.

    Many of these crossovers are different, but similar in that they use a 2.7 ohm resistor in the high pass section of the crossover that gets a 5.6uf bypass cap added to match the crossover to the characteristics (Fs, Vas, Qts, Qms, Qes, Sd, Xmax, Revc, Znom, Pmax) of the RDO198-1 / SL3000.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • phocion
    phocion Posts: 157
    edited September 2010
    Fwiw, you essentially came into the monastery of classic polk and suggested re-writing the bible, so don't take the criticisms too hard. These jabs are simply well-meaning advice from people who really do love good sound.

    If you have the parts and the interest, I say give it the beans, and see what it sounds like. Worst case scenario is that you learn a lot about audio engineering. Best case is that you become a true believer and only mod your x-over, seals, rings, magnets, baskets, interior padding, wires, and end caps, while finding the perfect positioning and power for your speakers.

    :)

    As I have come to find out from these boards, The good Lord hates a frankenpolk abomination, but loves a tweaker!
    The secret for harvesting from existence the greatest fruitfulness and greatest enjoyment is to live dangerously. - Nietzche
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited September 2010
    phocion wrote: »
    Fwiw, you essentially came into the monastery of classic polk and suggested re-writing the bible, so don't take the criticisms too hard. These jabs are simply well-meaning advice from people who really do love good sound.

    If you have the parts and the interest, I say give it the beans, and see what it sounds like. Worst case scenario is that you learn a lot about audio engineering. Best case is that you become a true believer and only mod your x-over, seals, rings, magnets, baskets, interior padding, wires, and end caps, while finding the perfect positioning and power for your speakers.

    :)

    As I have come to find out from these boards, The good Lord hates a frankenpolk abomination, but loves a tweaker!

    What I like is that music piped through my tweaked SDA's sounds like I'm high for only the cost of electricity, and no chance of a visit to the big house :D
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • backinthelou
    backinthelou Posts: 36
    edited September 2010
    phocion wrote: »
    Fwiw, you essentially came into the monastery of classic polk and suggested re-writing the bible, so don't take the criticisms too hard. These jabs are simply well-meaning advice from people who really do love good sound.

    If you have the parts and the interest, I say give it the beans, and see what it sounds like. Worst case scenario is that you learn a lot about audio engineering. Best case is that you become a true believer and only mod your x-over, seals, rings, magnets, baskets, interior padding, wires, and end caps, while finding the perfect positioning and power for your speakers.

    :)

    As I have come to find out from these boards, The good Lord hates a frankenpolk abomination, but loves a tweaker!


    I didn't take anything too hard and I realize (and have read) that some people gut their cabinets and want to missmash a bunch of crap together thinking they are doing a better job than engineers. I asked a few simple questions and alot of times, it's easier to beat someone over a question than it is to help answer it. Anyway, we are over that part. Please let's move on. I'm not trying to redesign an established technology. I don't have that kind of patience, even when it comes to my true love-muscle cars. The simple basic question was this: I have some spare cabinets and I have some parts that I am about to acquire. Would these parts be a hopeless cause or is there some chance that the parts may work ok together? It's easy to beat up on the noob sometimes. Trust me, I am on several forums and just because someone is new to the forum, people easily assume he is clueless.
    BTW, I have no use for doing anything like Ben did. I just want some simple nice sounding speakers.
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,217
    edited September 2010
    SDA's aren't simple. I guess I don't know what you're trying to accomplish. First you say you want to build min-SDA's......I took that literally. Next you say you want to populate old cabinets w/Polk parts. Now you say you want to build a simple speaker.

    To me these are all three different things and none are really related to one another beyond a mish mash of Polk parts.

    The parts could work together if you have specs of said parts, modeling equipment, some concrete knowledge and a willingness to spend some time evaluating. You are still way off to do even the simplest SDA's, IMO.

    You keep talking generalities when people ask more specific questions. When you have an idea of the parts you are getting (as in model numbers and models they were stripped from) then perhaps something concrete can be decided.

    H9

    P.s. Polk used 6 different tweeters if you include both Peerless models and 8 if you include the RD0's; about 6-7 different midwoofer drivers and a few different PR's of the same size. These all used slightly different x-overs so it's not so easy to match them up. I'm speaking for the SDA's and the Classic Monitor series only.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • backinthelou
    backinthelou Posts: 36
    edited September 2010
    heiney9 wrote: »
    SDA's aren't simple. I guess I don't know what you're trying to accomplish. First you say you want to build min-SDA's......I took that literally. Next you say you want to populate old cabinets w/Polk parts. Now you say you want to build a simple speaker.

    To me these are all three different things and none are really related to one another beyond a mish mash of Polk parts.

    The parts could work together if you have specs of said parts, modeling equipment, some concrete knowledge and a willingness to spend some time evaluating. You are still way off to do even the simplest SDA's, IMO.

    You keep talking generalities when people ask more specific questions. When you have an idea of the parts you are getting (as in model numbers and models they were stripped from) then perhaps something concrete can be decided.

    H9

    P.s. Polk used 6 different tweeters if you include both Peerless models and 8 if you include the RD0's; about 6-7 different midwoofer drivers and a few different PR's of the same size. These all used slightly different x-overs so it's not so easy to match them up. I'm speaking for the SDA's and the Classic Monitor series only.

    You got me on the first paragraph. I guess simple means different things to different people. Anyway, I do appreciate the help. I don't have the parts yet, so I can't say what they are. H9, you really do seem to know your stuff. Hopefully, I can make something out of these parts. If not, I will ditch them and move on.

    P.S. , I am waiting to be flamed for saying that these speakers could remotely be simple.
    I have recently figured out that these parts came out of a cabinet with 3 mid drivers, so it may be a wash anyway.
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  • bsoko2
    bsoko2 Posts: 1,449
    edited September 2010
    Man, save the headaches and the rest of it. Check out the bay, craigslist, and local garage sales and find the SDA's you want. There are still alot of them out there and then just upgrade crossovers and redo the caps and veneers if you want to. They'll sound just as Polk wanted them too.
    My 2012 HT Room - http://www.avsforum.com/t/1416077/bsoko2-new-ht-june-2012
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,217
    edited September 2010
    backinthelou wrote: »
    You got me on the first paragraph. I guess simple means different things to different people. Anyway, I do appreciate the help. I don't have the parts yet, so I can't say what they are. H9, you really do seem to know your stuff. Hopefully, I can make something out of these parts. If not, I will ditch them and move on.

    P.S. , I am waiting to be flamed for saying that these speakers could remotely be simple.
    I have recently figured out that these parts came out of a cabinet with 3 mid drivers, so it may be a wash anyway.

    I won't flame you, but they are far from simple but they also aren't the most complicated design out there either. Certain things are critical if you want to get the best SDA properties.

    If it;s a 3 driver model it's either an original SDA 2 or 2A.

    The SDA 2 uses (3) MW6501 and (1) SW120 passive radiator

    If it's an SDA 2A it uses (3) MW6510's and (1) SW121 passive radiator.

    The CRS uses (2) MW6503 and (1) SW102 passive radiator

    The SDA 2 and CRS both use (2) tweeters, the SDA 2A uses (1) tweeter

    The SDA CRS+ (blade/blade model) uses (2) MW6510 and (1) SW100 passive radiator and (1) tweeter

    The SDA CRS+ (PIN/blade model) uses (1) MW6510 and (1) MW6511 and (1) SW102 passive radiator and (1) tweeter.

    So as you can see there can be quite a difference in parts which translates to differences in the stock x-overs.

    H9

    P.s. confused yet?

    P.s.s also there was a 1987 and 1989 version of the CRS+ with the 1989 version using the same crossover as the late (3rd version) SDA 2B pin/blade.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,794
    edited September 2010
    Just a note on this subject. I've heard Bens take on the SDA's. Different..but damn close.... all sizes.
    To the OP..if you can, you will.



    Btw...shut up Brock.;)
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,761
    edited September 2010
    I have some older cabinets that are in really nice shape. I've gutted them and would like to make some mini SDA's. The cabinets are about 24"X 14"X14".

    I'm a little surprised that no one picked up on the cabinet size issue. 14 inches is too narrow and 24 is too wide. Game over.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,761
    edited September 2010
    inspiredsports wrote: »
    Seems to be confusion here, but all SDA 1B's, 2A's, 2B's, all but the 1984 model of CRS, and the 1986 Blade/Blade SDA SRS 2 can be TL'd (meaning modified to use the RDO198-1 / SL3000 instead of the RDO194-1 / SL2000 tweeter) with the addition of a single 5.6 uf cap in each crossover.

    Many of these crossovers are different, but similar in that they use a 2.7 ohm resistor in the high pass section of the crossover that gets a 5.6uf bypass cap added to match the crossover to the characteristics (Fs, Vas, Qts, Qms, Qes, Sd, Xmax, Revc, Znom, Pmax) of the RDO198-1 / SL3000.

    That should be 5.8uF and I'm still not sold about the SRS 2's. Nothing personal.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,794
    edited September 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    I'm a little surprised that no one picked up on the cabinet size issue. 14 inches is too narrow and 24 is too wide. Game over.
    Saw it, Jesse. Just trying to steer him to doing a little more searching about the threads. See ya in October.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,761
    edited September 2010
    inspiredsports wrote: »
    Seems to be confusion here, but all SDA 1B's, 2A's, 2B's, all but the 1984 model of CRS, and the 1986 Blade/Blade SDA SRS 2 can be TL'd (meaning modified to use the RDO198-1 / SL3000 instead of the RDO194-1 / SL2000 tweeter) with the addition of a single 5.6 uf cap in each crossover.

    Greg, remind my dumbass what you ended up doing with the lower tweeter.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • slenda17
    slenda17 Posts: 4
    edited September 2010
    I purchased on e-bay brand new ,in original polk audio box, pair of SDA 1`s ,from 1987. Not one mark on the cabinets, the fabric on the grills is brand new! The only thing that needed replacement was a pair of SL-2000 tweeters, wich was easy enough, the seller paid me back for them, and they are brand new now! and yes i have the SDA cable as well. I paid aprox $610USD with shipping. I hold my ear up to every driver, it all works, i say i got a good deal.
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  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,606
    edited September 2010
    slenda17 wrote: »
    you can get anything on e-bay

    OMG...REALLY????? :rolleyes:

    How your post relates to this thread is beyond me. But I am glad you are happy. :D
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,217
    edited September 2010
    slenda17 wrote: »
    I purchased on e-bay brand new ,in original polk audio box, pair of SDA 1`s ,from 1987. Not one mark on the cabinets, the fabric on the grills is brand new! The only thing that needed replacement was a pair of SL-2000 tweeters, wich was easy enough, the seller paid me back for them, and they are brand new now! and yes i have the SDA cable as well. I paid aprox $610USD with shipping. I hold my ear up to every driver, it all works, i say i got a good deal.

    If they were brand new (as in never used) why did they need new tweeters?

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,217
    edited September 2010
    lightman1 wrote: »

    Btw...shut up Brock.;)


    Say that to my face in October, buddy! :D:)

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • concealer404
    concealer404 Posts: 7,440
    edited September 2010
    inspiredsports wrote: »
    IF you are going to do it, do it right.

    First, read this entire post about Ben's FrankenPolks . . . http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53273

    He's probably got 4,000 hours of speaker building experimentation under his belt.

    Then, realize that even Ben will admit tweaked SDA SRS 1.2TL's probably sound better.

    But, you should go for it because you will learn a lot and have the satisfaction of having done it "your way".


    This thread may be a help, too. I was a bigger fan of these iterations than the behemoths. (In theory, of course. I haven't heard either.)

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78359
    I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.

    Living Room: B&K Reference 5 S2 / Parasound HCA-1000A / Emotiva XDA-2 / Pioneer BDP-51FD / Paradigm 11se MKiii

    Desk: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / ISK HD9999

    Office: Schiit Magni 2 Uber / Schiit Modi 2 Uber / Dynaco SCA-80Q / Paradigm Legend V.3

    HT: Denon AVR-X3400H / Sony UBP-X700 / RT16 / CS350LS / RT7 / SVS PB1000
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  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,794
    edited September 2010
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Say that to my face in October, buddy! :D:)

    H9
    Will do!:D
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited September 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    That should be 5.8uF and I'm still not sold about the SRS 2's. Nothing personal.

    Oops, typo, 5.8 is definitely what's needed.

    F1nut wrote: »
    Greg, remind my dumbass what you ended up doing with the lower tweeter.

    All 4 tweeters are RDO198-1's, 4.4uf cap to top tweeter was removed and 5.8uf cap inserted in its place, The value of the initial 3.5 ohm resistor is what I always questioned and I still have not gotten around to substituting in a lower value (2.7) as I feel the treble is still a tad more laid back than other TL's.
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,761
    edited September 2010
    inspiredsports wrote: »
    All 4 tweeters are RDO198-1's, 4.4uf cap to top tweeter was removed and 5.8uf cap inserted in its place, The value of the initial 3.5 ohm resistor is what I always questioned and I still have not gotten around to substituting in a lower value (2.7) as I feel the treble is still a tad more laid back than other TL's.

    I have to wonder if changes need to be made to the crossover values for the bottom tweeter. This is a rather unusual situation in that there is no other good comparision. That said, if one looks at the 1.2 and 1.2TL, you will notice that the high frequency circuit has been reworked to account for the differences between the SL2000's and the SL3000's.

    Maybe Face can plug all the info into his crossover programs and come up with a solid answer for us. He'll probably curse at me when he sees this...LOL
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • slenda17
    slenda17 Posts: 4
    edited September 2010
    heiney9, why the right SDA 1 needed 2 new tweeters i dont know. but i purchased 2 SL-2000 tweeters from another ebay seller, and the seller who sold me the SDA1`s paid me back for them. These speakers look brand new, brand new fabric,Polk Audio Logo name plate with heart logo, looks brand new also. i thought i would never see vintage polk audio speakers from the 1980`s again, i own a pair of SDA 2`s also but they are trashy looking. So i am very pleased with these. my guess is that no one ever used these and they were sitting in their original polk audio box all these years. Polk probobly knew no one would buy them because times were changing, so they put defective tweeters in because they were running out of them back in 1987. a very musical sounding speaker, far better than my Klpisch F-3 purchased from Best Buy, they suck. I was going to pay $3000 for Vienna Acoustics at Best Buy, what a mistake that would of been
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  • backinthelou
    backinthelou Posts: 36
    edited September 2010
    Well, I just picked up a set of Monitor 10A's last night. I still haven't gotten the "spare parts" yet, but they are on the way. I don't know what I'll do with them now.
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