Formby's Lemon Oil Treatment

zingo
zingo Posts: 11,258
edited May 2010 in Vintage Speakers
If anyone has oiled or unsealed wood on speakers or cabinets, I highly recommend Formby's Lemon Oil Treatment. It's a light oil that really brings the shine and luster back to wood and worked wonders on my 1988 Klipsch Fortes.

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Formby's® Penetrating Lemon Oil Treatment nourishes and maintains wood's natural beauty. Formby's® Lemon Oil Treatment is specially designed to replace the lost natural oil in wooden furniture and prevent moisture absorption, which can cause wood to crack, peel, lift or discolor. Formby's® Lemon Oil Treatment is formulated to be light and not greasy. The pleasant lemon fragrance will leave your wood smelling fresh and clean!

Formby's® Lemon Oil Treatment may be used on funiture, wall paneling, doors, kitchen cabinets and other wood surfaces.

Tips:
Do not over-use. Lemon Oil is not greasy and will not build up on your furniture, but if you put too much Lemon Oil on, you may have to wipe it off, as it does not evaporate.

Formby's® Lemon Oil Treatment is ideal for use after refinishing to condition wood and keep it looking beautiful.

Use Formby's® Lemon Oil Treatment regularly on all wood surfaces to help protect wood from drying and cracking.

Formby's® Lemon Oil Treatment used regularly (once a month or so) with a clean cloth will pick up dirt and dust and other pollutants that settle on your furniture.

Once or twice a year you should apply Lemon Oil under a tabletop or desk to add oil to the wood underneath. This decreases the absorption of moisture into the wood. This may also be done around drawer edges and door edges.
Post edited by zingo on

Comments

  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    It works wonders on my 1992 forte II's as well! I have used orange oil on occasion.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited May 2010
    Hello,
    I use it and the wood cleaner they make to refurbish A77 cabinets. I use the cleaner first, until my cotton ball comes away clean. Then many applications of the oil until it won't absorb any more.
    Anybody know how to clean a French polish surface? Besides just dusting?
    Regards, Ken
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited May 2010
    Thanks, Zingo.
    My friend, who is a luthier, did my sub-woofer. It is quite a process, but beautiful results. The sides stay fine, but the flat top starts to look dull after a few years.
    Ken
  • polkfarmboy
    polkfarmboy Posts: 5,703
    edited May 2010
    Could this work on black rti's ?
  • Polkersince85
    Polkersince85 Posts: 2,883
    edited May 2010
    Ya'll better hide, Jesse is gonna post. :eek:
    >
    >
    >This message has been scanned by the NSA and found to be free of harmful intent.<
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,755
    edited May 2010
    Lemon oil is nothing more than a slow evaporating petroleum distillate with a lemon scent added. Basically, it's mineral oil available at any drug store for a couple of bucks.
    is specially designed to replace the lost natural oil in wooden furniture and prevent moisture absorption, which can cause wood to crack, peel, lift or discolor.

    BS! Unless the wood is something like rosewood, teak or one of the other exotic types, there is no oil in the wood, so why would you need to replace what wasn't there to start with!?! It should be noted that the oils in the exotics doesn't go away, so there's no need to replenish those woods either. If you want to have an oil finish, use something like Watco.
    Anybody know how to clean a French polish surface?

    A good furniture polish such as Guardsman should help. Another excellent choice would be a waxing with Renaissance micro-crystalline wax, but if you wax it, don't use furniture polish after that. It takes 3 applications of Renaissance to "build up."
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited May 2010
    Thanks, Dr. J,
    My sub-woofer is real Brazilian Rosewood, before they began limiting how much wood could be brought out of the country. Would that effect your recommendation?
    Ken
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,755
    edited May 2010
    Ken, as long as the French polish finish is in good condition, which it seems to be, it doesn't matter what the wood/veneer is, so my recommendation remains the same.

    I also have another recommendation, one that results in a very nice high gloss sheen, more so than the furniture polish or the wax. 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze. It's meant to be applied with a power buffer, but I've used it by hand with excellent results.

    Brazilian Rosewood, eh? I'm sure it looks stunning.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    I like Formby's because it works, smells good, and cost $4 a bottle; reasonable enough for me.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,755
    edited May 2010
    Jake, seriously it's a total waste of time and money, hence my comparision to mineral oil. Use a product such as Watco, which is an oil/varnish blend. It will actually penetrate into the wood offering considerably more protection than "lemon oil", it will last much longer and therefore, look much better for a longer time.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    I'll look it up next time I'm at the store Jesse. Thanks.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,755
    edited May 2010
    Jake, just so you know, your Klipsch Fortes would have had an oil finish, like Watco, when they were made.

    A word of caution about products like Watco. The cloth rags used in its application are prone to spontaneous combustion unless soaked in water after use and then laid out flat (preferably outside) to dry.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Well that's not good... :eek:
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,341
    edited May 2010
    Every bit of wood working advice or recommendations that Jesse has given me have yielded outstanding results.
    Carl

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited May 2010
    Thanks, Jesse.
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,986
    edited May 2010
    Jesse is a wood Jedi, period. I EVER have a question about wood, he's my ONLY goto.

    Cheers,
    Russ
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    edited May 2010
    not to hijack a thread, but I thought I would ask F1 what would be the best thing to use to clean and shine a Micro Seiki DD 40 turntable?? It is in great shape and looks good, but I wanted to make it look as good as possible... Thanks
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,692
    edited May 2010
    I've used Minwax hard paste wax and 0000 steel wool to apply on my SDA1's and other wood surfaces with good results. It was something my woods teacher tought me many years ago.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,755
    edited May 2010
    vmaxer, what is material and what kind of finish does it have?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    edited May 2010
    F1, see attached text from manual, for description. Thanks a lot!
    dd40.pdf 254.4K
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited May 2010
    Here you go Jesse - ^^^^^
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    edited May 2010
    Jesse...are you out there??:)
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • davidk0512
    davidk0512 Posts: 157
    edited May 2010
    +1 on Watco, I like either the Danish oil or Teak oil in that order.
    David
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,755
    edited May 2010
    Ok, so it's rosewood veneer. Do you know what type of finish it has?

    You say it's in great shape and looks good, so maybe you don't need to do anything.



    Tracy, thanks for the thumbnail.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    edited May 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, so it's rosewood veneer. Do you know what type of finish it has?

    You say it's in great shape and looks good, so maybe you don't need to do anything.



    Tracy, thanks for the thumbnail.

    F1...

    It is in good shape overall and looks good. Some areas could use a cleaning and I thought if there was something I could apply to enhance the looks and maybe help it to last longer I would do it. The main areas that show some dulling or that are dirty looking are where something is attached like the hinges or stops for the cover, etc...I really know nothing about wood:confused:, the manual just says "a solid King Rosewood base...the solid base, Palisander-Rose finish presses board.......

    What is something good to clean it with and then "treat" if that is the correct term:mad:
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,755
    edited May 2010
    What is something good to clean it with and then "treat" if that is the correct term

    Ok, got ya. Clean it with mineral spirits/paint thinner using a toothbrush to get into the areas around the hinges and stops. After it's dry give it a waxing with Renaissance micro-crystalline wax.

    Mineral spirits/paint thinner is a safe cleaner for any finish, especially when the finish is unknown. Renaissance wax is also safe to use on any finish and will impart a soft sheen.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dbnh
    dbnh Posts: 194
    edited May 2010
    RuSsMaN wrote: »
    Jesse is a wood Jedi, period. I EVER have a question about wood, he's my ONLY goto.

    Cheers,
    Russ
    That's what she said
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited May 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, so it's rosewood veneer. Do you know what type of finish it has?

    You say it's in great shape and looks good, so maybe you don't need to do anything.



    Tracy, thanks for the thumbnail.

    you are welcome !
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,117
    edited May 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, got ya. Clean it with mineral spirits/paint thinner using a toothbrush to get into the areas around the hinges and stops. After it's dry give it a waxing with Renaissance micro-crystalline wax.

    Mineral spirits/paint thinner is a safe cleaner for any finish, especially when the finish is unknown. Renaissance wax is also safe to use on any finish and will impart a soft sheen.

    Thanks F1, I couldn't find the wax local, but I did order some. I really appreciate the help:cool:
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404