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  • Re: SDA 1C vs SDA SRS 2

    A small FYI, while it does depend on the material, IMO if stuff starts to sound too much surround sound like you are getting too many reflections off side walls or objects. Looking at the room, there may be reflections.

    For me one of the fun things to do is place the 5's in line and about 1 or 2 feet outside of where the SDA's are. It will seam like the very big sound is coming from the 5's.

    Also anything mono, a lot of movie dialogs, and certain music tracks will also have a laser focused center. On movie dialogs when running a phantom center, I swear it is on sometimes. For some music tracks where the stereo is in enhance, but the singer is mono singing into a studio mic, if the engineer recorded it specifically like this, the stereo ambiance is amazing, while the singer is emanating from a pin point center directed right at you.

  • Re: Might pull the trigger on Hafler Amps

    kharp1 wrote: »
    I have a pair of Hafler amps that will need work. One is a 220 and I think one is a 230. I know one is different than the other slightly, and if I recall, the 230 has Neutrik connections. Any one that is interested I'll move them CHEAP! I used the 220 for a while, but, noticed a pop through the speakers when I turned it on so I moved it to the side and never got back to it.

    The P230 is the later version of the "professional" rack mount version of the DH-220. The early version was the P225. According to Hafler the P230 has additional MOSFETS and larger power supply fuses.

    The pop or "thump" is normal for the DH-220 amps, and likely the P230. Usually they are turned on and left on. The DH-220 does not have relays on the speaker outputs. Relays were added to newer amps to prevent the thump. The click you hear after power up is the relays. Some high end amps today still don't have relays because they are considered something in the signal path and detrimental to sound for the purist. They are also always left on so they are at their stable state.

    Once the amps are on, you can check the DC offset with a voltmeter. Both the DC offset and bias are adjustable. on these. The DC offset is not too hard to adjust, but with the age likely harder to get perfect zero. Less than 10mV should be possible. I think I got mine to within 5mV. The bias really needs to calibrated meters, and is more difficult. Small movements to the pots create wild swings which take time to settle.
  • Re: Check your MW screws

    Did you glue the hurricane nuts as well? Are you sure they were drawn in all the way initially? I have heard people having issues if they didn't get them seated enough. I had to make a washer set to distribute the load and really tighten it to draw the hurricane nuts all the way in. I saw someone had to do that on another thread. The speaker basket will deform if you use that to draw them in or over tighten.
  • Re: Polk monitors 10 B

    You should also replace the sandcast resistors with Mills. They are also available from soniccraft. I assume you have the SL2000 tweeters and a polyswitch. The polyswitch should be replaced with a 0.5 Ohm resistor. There is a much better and smoother sounding tweeter that is a direct replacement, the RD0-194. It can be ordered from Polk customer service for ~$50 each. Tell them you are a forum member and shipping is free.

    There is also the SL3000 mod which requires more parts and uses the RD0-198 tweeter, a replacement for the SL3000. A link to the schematic is below. All the schematics can be found in the vintage speaker section.

    Some feel the RD0-198 sounds even better than the RD0-194. Both sound better than the SL2000.
  • Re: New - Just Bought Some Awesome Polks and Need Advice

    RedDuke wrote: »
    @codycatalist I should mention the Monitor 4's he offered me do not have the Silver Peerless SL2000 tweeters in case that matters.

    I am not sure what you mean by the above. I assume you are familiar with what the peerless tweeters look like and when the SL2000's look like. The early M4's had black peerless tweeters. The mounting plates were metal. IMO these M4's have some value. There are some with the SL1000 tweeter. These had a flat silver metal plate and looked similar to the peerless, except they were all silver looking. I don't recall M4's with SL2000's. I think they switched to 5jr's. These had the SL2000 and a slightly larger cabinet. There were many iterations of M4's, plus later versions I would not call vintage. I would say they would work well as "small" surround speakers.

    Here is more information on the vintage M4's and if you are interested.

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