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  • Re: Phono Input.

    I don't know, guys, my experience with phono is similar? I have to crank the volume up significantly to match the volume of my other sources, which are digital.

    I'd say at least 3 - 6dB lower for phono in my case, according to the input level adjustment I can set on the AVR I'm using. Even then, it's still a little lower.

    I think this is where others use a SUT (step up transformer)?

    Most phono preamps will offer MM or MC, but not all, so it's wise to check, yes.
    Is there not a switch on your Onkyo for MC/MM? Could be it only does MM. Lo MC requires greater gain, iinm, and some people like using a LoMC cart with the SUT and MM setting on the phono pre.

    The cart should have an identifier on it somewhere. Might be on top, covered by the headshell. You'll want to know what it is for proper tracking and antiskate.
  • AudioQuest Cable Theory and Cable Designs

    A friend sent me a set of AudioQuest Slate cables a while back to play with. I was planning to re-terminate them, going from bi-wire to fullrange/standard.

    I didn't know anything about these cables, nor much about AudioQuest at all before, thinking they were just like any other plain-jane speaker cable I've ever messed with.
    After disassembly last night, I noticed a few things that piqued my curiosity.
    1. These cables use solid core conductors
    2. These cables use differing gauge conductors
    After some reading, I learned that this is one of AudioQuest's Circular Array Series cables. The cables also supposedly use different kinds of copper in the different conductors.

    Talk about a rabbit hole, I stumbled across all kinds of AudioQuest Documentation
    My head's swimming a bit with this stuff, so I'm taking a little break, but I was wondering whether any of you AudioQuest fans know much about these designs, or have spent much time learning about some of these principles in cable design.

    I've left off for the moment with the "Understanding Bi-wiring" document. AudioQuest seems to make a strong case for bi-wiring in isolating the paths for treble and bass signals.
    In short, they say that the magnetic field generated by the higher current bass signal muddies up the path for the treble signal delivery, and that providing a path for isolation smooths the path for the upper frequencies, allows bass to be delivered with force, and, further, that this separation actually helps with bass definition, because that bass definition is actually located in the mids and higher frequencies, which now have a clearer pathway.

    Interesting so far.
    I originally just wanted to re-terminate these cables as a full range set, but seems a bit of a waste of what this cable was designed to do. This Circular Array Series isn't supposed to be as good at isolation as the Flatrock Series. Thinking perhaps it was an earlier design.

    Quick side question here - I noticed that the conductor pairs on the speaker side of these cables were twisted before the banana plug connector. I've seen wire twisted before sometimes, but I'm not sure why this is done. What does this do? Is it just to help guard against electromagnetic contamination and signal bleed in/out? I noticed on the amp side that the 8 conductors were not twisted, just split to 4ea and fed straight into the connector. So, when should wire be twisted, and when should it be left straight?
  • Re: Mass Loading "Ultimate Foundations" Stands

    Interesting - that's just like a bigger version of the star nut used for tensioning headsets on threadless bike forks.

  • Re: Mass Loading "Ultimate Foundations" Stands

    Coming together!
    Plan sounds pretty solid so far. The only thing I have to offer is on the pre-mixing of the sand and shot.

    Given the difference in densities, if pre-mixing, it may be possible that the lead shot settles out from the drop down the column and subsequent vibration. Not positive this will happen, but the possibility just occurred to me thinking back on something I was taught for concrete testing years ago. Over-working concrete with a vibrator to get it to flow into place in forms and footings, or placing it by pouring from height can cause the aggregate to settle out - drop to the bottom. This could be a similar situation, so, personally, I'd work the sand and shot in separately, alternating volume measured lifts. Example, 1 cup sand followed by one cup of shot, alternating until filled (per F1nut recommendation of manageable quantities), Keep track of the order and how many lifts of each used, so you can replicate it for each column. This could be as simple as ✅ marks in columns. On paper.

    Exciting project! Looking forward to seeing how it goes and hearing your impressions when you're done.
    Post edited by msg on
  • Re: B&K 200.2 Amplifier

    Maaan that thing is in gorgeous condition. I'm such a B&K junkie. Was just chatting with another member earlier laughing at ourselves and how we're both already owners but somehow still struggling to not pick up this prime example. I paid significantly more than this for mine. 75 amp peak to peak, drives everything I've got with a measure of authority, and smooth, fat sound.

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