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  • Re: Internet Connection Problems - Help!

    scubalab wrote: »
    I should add that this problem happens on both the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz connection over wifi only. We have an Ethernet port in our living room upstairs that is hard-wired to the modem. I took my work computer up there last week and it worked flawlessly. So, the problem is definitely in the wifi connection. Weird thing is, I never see it lose internet connection (red ball on phone or yellow exclamation point on laptops), although if it's just a quick blip, then it's very possible I just miss it. I only notice it when I navigate to a new web page, refresh, or if I'm working on our VPN and it gets stuck until I disconnect and reconnect.

    I should also note that the Xfinity technician wasn't really bashing the new modem I got. He actually said it was a good modem. What he said was that in regards to the "end of life" modems, it wasn't much different than the one it replaced. I guess Xfinity is going to 16 channels, and is considering any modem that has less than 16 channels at the end of it's life. He even said, the one we got was probably more than we'd ever need. I was just more frustrated that replacing our old modem and router didn't fix the problem, and that I bought the new modem thinking it would be one that was NOT an 'end of life' model and would be a tad bit more future-proof (well at least current).

    Dan (@mantis) - I should clarify that the Netgear router IS out of service. You may have mistaken the Ooma (VOIP telephone hub) as the old Netgear. We're only using the new Arris modem and the new Linksys router. I already have the 2.4 and 5 GHz networks separated and setup with network names and passwords (that we changed from the default). I'll have to figure out how to do what you're recommending on the channels. As for the printer, I'm not sure what wifi direct printing is, but I'll look into it and turn it off if it is on. (The printer is an HP Envy 4500).

    Also, as for connected devices, we have the HTPC hard-wired to the router, the Marantz AV processor hard-wired to the router, and the Ooma hard-wired to the router. The fourth hard-wire is for the Ethernet port (typically unused) in our living room upstairs. We also have a Google Chromecast, a Chromecast Audio, an Amazon Echo, an Amazon Fire Stick, a Roku 3, the HP Envy 4500 printer, an Oppo 103 (wireless dongle), a Samsung BR player (rarely ever used) and two laptops that may or can connect wirelessly. Lastly, we have up to 4 iPhones that default to wireless when we're home. We hadn't changed anything in MONTHS. It was just a little over a week ago that the problem started. So, I can't pinpoint something new that would be causing it.
    Log into your router and go to where you set up your password and SSID.
    Then Log for AUTO and change it to Channel 1 to start on 2.4
    Then change AUTO to Channel 32 on 5g.
    If you don't down load the scan tool and know how to use it then this is a process of elimination. So Try those channels first and test. If you get great results then leave the channels there. If not here is the next channels to try

    2.4 go to Channel 6
    5g go to Channel 48

    If that doesn't work

    2.4 to Channel 11
    5g to Channel 52

    DO NOT USE any other channels for 2.4
    Use any channel you want with 5g as none of them overlap.

    Go to that Printer and turn off WIFI Direct OFF . If that Printer is producing a SSID then turn that crap off.
  • Re: Internet Connection Problems - Help!

    Ok ,
    Here is what you do,
    First off remove the Netgear router and just use the Linksys as your Main Router and WIFI access point.
    Then I want you to separate your networks Wifi meaning 2.4 and 5g
    Make a SSID like Scublab and a password like popcorn for the 2.4
    Make a SSID like Scublab_5g and a password like popcorn for 5g
    now the trick here is going to be finding out what channels are around you meaning the 2.4 band has really only 3 available channels and they are 1 , 6 and 11. Forget about 2,3,4,5,7,8,9,10 as they all overlap each other and cause issues.
    Your going to need a scan tool like INSSIDER to find out what channels your neighbors are on and get on the channel that is the least amount of users. Also check DB ratings, the higher the number the better which will mean less likely to cause interference.
    So the same thing for 5g. You can use all the channels on 5g from 32 to 153, they do not overlap or interfere with each other. So scan for that bandwidth and find out who is one those channels and pick one that is the least amount of people on and the highest DB rating.

    Now if you have a Wifi Printer in your home that has WIFI direct Print, turn that smack off. This will cause your 2.4 not to work well at all and cause network storms.
    You can have your printer join Wifi and print over the network NOT WIFI DIRECT.

    Let me know if you need any more help.

  • Re: 2016-2017 Dodge Durango RT

    As a service advisor for a large dealer here in CA, my advice is run for the hills. Don't even think about buying one.

    I have driven the new Jaguar F-Pace a few times now, and this is tops on my list for an SUV.... about the same pricing too.
    What kind of dealer?
    So basically no one thinks it's a good Idea to go Dodge today? I haven't owned an American car or truck in decades. My wife got a 2015 Jeep Renagage and it's been good so far.
  • Re: Pioneer Elite SC-99

    I don't like XT32. I have used it in many rooms only to convert back to factory defaults and do the calibration myself with much better results.
    Taking a average over the room really doesn't help getting a KING SEAT. I find it disturbing.
  • Re: Audioquest Jitterbug

    Got some time to play with this thing. I let it run all morning to break it in some and see if sending current through it makes any difference.
    I also broke out my old 2008 Macbook for new testing as said above it has a standard style 7200 hard drive in it.
    When playing with the Jitterbug, everything sounds as it does with my 2015 Macbook Pro with a Solid State hard drive. Warm inviting and comfortable.
    When I remove the Jitterbug from the 2008 Macbook Pro, I noticed a difference in sound. This time I noticed that my sound quality changed. I had to switch back and forth a few times to confirm what I was hearing. Basically without the Jitterbug my sound sounds slightly higher in the higher end. Like someone turned up the treble a bit. With the Jitterbug, things seem to warm up like someone put the treble back on "0" for a lack of a better term.
    It also seemed to blacken the back ground meaning more air between sounds. Again switching back and forth I heard this.IMG_0686_zpst3lsixel.jpg
    I see now the purpose of this little device, if you have some issues with your signal transfer or if you have some interference, this thing can clean that up and make things as they should. It's not an enhance device, basically it preserves the signal and allows you to transfer your signal to your DAC the best possible way. I'm digging this thing but unfortunately it doesn't do anything with my new Macbook at all.
    I'm wondering IF running off the battery or the wall makes the difference here? When I was using my new Mac, I was on battery, when I was using my Old Mac , I was on the power cord as the battery was fully dead in it and I didn't want to wait for it to charge back up.
    Now I gotta test both ways again due to the difference in power transfer. Maybe that damn power cord is emitting a slight amount of RFI into my signal chain.
    Back to the drawing board.

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