SDA CRS

13

Comments

  • tonyp063tonyp063 Posts: 457
    Don't get caught up in the details.

    Sometimes this is the best advise.
    Because we then don't listen to the music.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    Tony M wrote: »
    I had a Velodyne 12" sub once and I was VERY impressed with it also.

    They did subs right. Then came HSU and SVS. Def. Tech too.

    I’ve had quite a few of their models and always have been impressed with them. My CHT-10 was a bit slow, bit it was really designed for HT.

    I’m listening to Pink Floyd DSOTM on the SDAs right now, and the sound stage is amazing. The clocks at the beginning of “Time” are spectacular. The footsteps at the end of of “On The Run” are crazy. He (whoever is running) runs from my desk straight to my right almost to the window, and back again. The Velodyne covers the low end extreme leg well, and blends incredibly well, to the point of it not even soundings like it’s on. I can’t imagine what these would sound like fully decked out with modded XO’s and RD0 tweeters, and better equipment behind them.
    These continue to surpass my expectations with every song. The clarity from them is stunning. I’m hearing every tiny bit of distortion, every detail I’ve never heard before, every issue, every background noise. Even the distortion occupies a place in space.
    Thank you. All of you. I could not be happier with these speakers, yet I think that day will come when I get to mods. :)

    Don't get caught up in the details. I did that and now from time to time I have to turn the SDAs off as they don't sound up to par with what I expect from them. Granted this mostly stems from having standing waves galore in my room and an off center image due to the outside wall.

    Either way glad you are enjoying them dude. Keep rockin on!

    I’m trying not to, but I thought it was worth mentioning that I could hear all the things I couldn’t before. :)
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    Quick question for y’all. Can I remove the metal covers on the passives without any negative effects? One of them started making a weird rattling noise, and even when I tightened it down it didn’t go away. It’s gone now that I’ve removed them. Not a problem with the passives because when’s I switched the covers between the speakers the sound went to the other speaker.
    Thanks. :)
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    Another thing I thought might be worth mentioning, this is at VERY high volumes. AKA as loud as I can’t go without pain.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,895
    Ummm turn it down
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    edited October 12
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ummm turn it down

    Lol I did, but knowing that the issue is there is enough for me to be paranoid about it. I don’t like it that loud usually, but being that I was home alone I decided to see what’s they could do. It was about 15 seconds, and I heard the rattling in that time. Then briefly again to see if it followed the cover or stayed with the speaker.
    I can’t see anything on the covers that would cause that rattling, but it is no longer there without them.
    Any ideas on what this could be?
    Also, “very loud” was around 95 DB peaks according to the app on my tablet. I have fairly sensitive hearing so very loud to me isn’t very loud to most others.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 2,915
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ummm turn it down

    Lol I did, but knowing that the issue is there is enough for me to be paranoid about it. I don’t like it that loud usually, but being that I was home alone I decided to see what’s they could do. It was about 15 seconds, and I heard the rattling in that time. Then briefly again to see if it followed the cover or stayed with the speaker.
    I can’t see anything on the covers that would cause that rattling, but it is no longer there without them.
    Any ideas on what this could be?

    It's probably early signs of tinnitus. :(
    2.3TL, 3.1TL, SDA 2B, SDA II, 7B, 7C, 7 series 2, 10B, 5JR+, 5JR, 5A, 4.5, 4, RTA 11TL, RTA 8TL, RTA 8T, LSI9, LSI7 EBONY, LSI7 CHERRY, LSIC, RTI A7, RTI A3, CSI A4, CSI A6, F/XI A4, RTI4. That's all for now.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    la2vegas wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ummm turn it down

    Lol I did, but knowing that the issue is there is enough for me to be paranoid about it. I don’t like it that loud usually, but being that I was home alone I decided to see what’s they could do. It was about 15 seconds, and I heard the rattling in that time. Then briefly again to see if it followed the cover or stayed with the speaker.
    I can’t see anything on the covers that would cause that rattling, but it is no longer there without them.
    Any ideas on what this could be?

    It's probably early signs of tinnitus. :(

    A rattling sound? Is that a sign of tinnitus?
    It had a very metallic “clack clack clack” sound to it. And it seemed to only come from the speaker with the cover. Not there without it, same volume and song.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    I think I found the issue. One cover is slightly bent. I don’t know what caused that, but I think the passive was hitting the cover.
    So if I can’t bend this back, does it matter, or can I find them online somewhere?
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 2,915
    edited October 12
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    la2vegas wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ummm turn it down

    Lol I did, but knowing that the issue is there is enough for me to be paranoid about it. I don’t like it that loud usually, but being that I was home alone I decided to see what’s they could do. It was about 15 seconds, and I heard the rattling in that time. Then briefly again to see if it followed the cover or stayed with the speaker.
    I can’t see anything on the covers that would cause that rattling, but it is no longer there without them.
    Any ideas on what this could be?

    It's probably early signs of tinnitus. :(

    A rattling sound? Is that a sign of tinnitus?
    It had a very metallic “clack clack clack” sound to it. And it seemed to only come from the speaker with the cover. Not there without it, same volume and song.

    Sorry, I should have added that I'm not a doctor.
    Perhaps you can start a thread on the subject. On second thought those sort of threads almost always go down in flames. :D
    2.3TL, 3.1TL, SDA 2B, SDA II, 7B, 7C, 7 series 2, 10B, 5JR+, 5JR, 5A, 4.5, 4, RTA 11TL, RTA 8TL, RTA 8T, LSI9, LSI7 EBONY, LSI7 CHERRY, LSIC, RTI A7, RTI A3, CSI A4, CSI A6, F/XI A4, RTI4. That's all for now.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 742
    Being that the PR face rear they should be somewhat safe to run with no grill. I don't see why not. I'd just remove them if it were me.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    CH46E wrote: »
    Being that the PR face rear they should be somewhat safe to run with no grill. I don't see why not. I'd just remove them if it were me.

    I’m not worried about protection, more any detrimental sound issues. I do my best to take good care of my stuff, so no problems there.
    Thanks! :)
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • Tony MTony M Posts: 6,298
    edited October 12
    Your smart enough to figure how to pound that grill back into shape. Do it.

    I'd fix it and put it back on just to make it original again. That's me being a perfectionist again. Something I lost about 7 years ago but it's coming back. It's a curse I tell ya! :#
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    I am certainly gonna try, although I’ll end up being too careful for my own good and not whack it hard enough. ;)
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • Tony MTony M Posts: 6,298
    I straightened a couple of CRS grills before. Easy Peazy.

    Hammer them gently from the inside side on something like a firm pillow of some kind.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    I got it straightened back out, and there are no issues. :)
    Thanks guys!
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    I decided these guys and the Missions deserve more amp behind them than the Crown. So I sold the Crown to a friend, and sometime this week I am going to go and pick up a NAD C352. :)
    It’s $300, and it comes with a seperate phono pre amp (seems like a decent model, not sure what I’ll do with that yet), and Monitor Audio Radius R90’s.
    Well reviewed amplifier and speakers, and I will put the compact R90’s to good use in a computer system. :smile:
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,895
    You'll do ok with the NAD, not the baddest amp on the planet but it will have plenty for the Missions.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    FestYboy wrote: »
    You'll do ok with the NAD, not the baddest amp on the planet but it will have plenty for the Missions.

    Do you think it will do well on the SDAs?
    It seemed like a fairly beefy amp, at least judging by the specs page. It’s supposedly stable into 2 ohms, is that not accurate?
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • CH46ECH46E Posts: 742
    I very much like my NAD 906. As most the NAD amps they usually have a lot of headroom. I think that C352 would rock the CRS just fine.

    I've been wanting to get a 2200 to play with. Just have other things in the works right now to try and source another amp.

    I look forward to your impressions of the NAD and the CRS combo.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,526
    Like Tony said, it's easy to fix the grill. While you're at it add the 4 missing screws. Use Hurricane nuts for all 8 PR holes, which will couple the PR much better than stock. You can use the nuts for the mid-drivers as well.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    F1nut wrote: »
    Like Tony said, it's easy to fix the grill. While you're at it add the 4 missing screws. Use Hurricane nuts for all 8 PR holes, which will couple the PR much better than stock. You can use the nuts for the mid-drivers as well.

    Where can I source hurricane nuts? I’ve heard them mentioned many times, but I don’t actually know what they are.
    Are they the type of nuts which have a spiral like shape on the back to make them stay tighter?
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    CH46E wrote: »
    I very much like my NAD 906. As most the NAD amps they usually have a lot of headroom. I think that C352 would rock the CRS just fine.

    I've been wanting to get a 2200 to play with. Just have other things in the works right now to try and source another amp.

    I look forward to your impressions of the NAD and the CRS combo.


    This one supposedly has more laid back highs, and a slightly recessed midrange, so I think it would sound good with the Missions somewhat forward midrange and the brightness of the CRS’s. Time will tell though... :)
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,526
    Those are T-nuts, do not use them. Hurricane nuts are available from Parts Express. You'll need new screws to go with them. Get socket head cap screws.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    F1nut wrote: »
    Those are T-nuts, do not use them. Hurricane nuts are available from Parts Express. You'll need new screws to go with them. Get socket head cap screws.

    Got it, thanks. :)
    I’ll get some ordered this week.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,526
    From another post of mine....
    Worth mentioning, if using cap screws on the PR's you should use a #8 washer as the basket holes tend to be slightly larger than the driver basket holes and it's really easy for the cap screw to go thru the hole. I tried brass washers first, but found they are too soft. I then went with SS black oxide, perfect.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,246
    F1nut wrote: »
    From another post of mine....
    Worth mentioning, if using cap screws on the PR's you should use a #8 washer as the basket holes tend to be slightly larger than the driver basket holes and it's really easy for the cap screw to go thru the hole. I tried brass washers first, but found they are too soft. I then went with SS black oxide, perfect.

    Thanks!
    I have got some work to do... :)
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,526
    edited October 13
    Yep.

    Get the 8-32 nuts and cap screws. When installing the nuts you need to drill out the holes slightly larger, but I forget the drill size, so do a search here. You draw the nut in from behind by using a cap screw with a washer. Slowly draw the nut in and do not over torque the cap screw. The nut twists slightly as it's drawn in. It's not a bad idea to put a dab or two of 5 minute epoxy on the nut shaft right before drawing the nut in.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,154
    My "Boiler Plate" instructions for Hurricane Nut installation. There are many choices for the type of machine screw, and as stated previously, drill out the other four holes, and use a washer under the head for final assembly.
    "The Hurricane Nuts can be found here: http://www.parts-express.com/8-32-hurricane-nuts-50-pcs--081-1080
    I use either #8-32 Phillips, Pan Head, Black Oxide, Stainless Steel, 3/4" or 1" Machine Screws, or #8-32 Torx head, Black Oxide Cap Screws. The Phillips head a dead ringer for the original Polk Sheet Metal Screws. Regarding the Hurricane Nut installation, you'll need a variable speed drill, preferably with a level bubble on the back end. The hole size is 13/64" for the 8-32 size nuts. Don't drill out the holes with that size immediately. I use three drill sizes to enlarge the hole gradually. Start with 1/8", then 5/32", finishing with the 13/64". This prevents splitting the particle board, or worse, blowing out a chunk of material on the back side. Lay the cabinet on its back, on a level surface. The 1/8" starter bit will follow the original screw hole. Use low speed, and don't apply any pressure to the drill, let the weight of the drill make the hole, and check the level bubble if your drill has one. Do all the holes with the 1/8", then move up to the 5/32" and so on. Next, I use a 3/4" or 1" wood chisel to clear any burrs off the back side of the holes. You may find excess hot glue where the holes are drilled. This will need to be removed. you can use a heat gun, or hair dryer set on high to soften the hot glue, the peel it away with the wood chisel, and trim it off. To set the Hurricane Nuts, I use a small 1/2" diameter washer, and a couple of sacrificial screws. Put the washer under the head of the screw, hold the hurricane nut to the back of the hole, manually start threading the screw, and finish with the drill with a Phillips bit in it. Use low speed, and you'll know when the Hurricane Nut is seated by the sound of your drill. The washer helps prevent the screw head from sinking too far into the particle board as its pulling the Hurricane nut up into the hole. The H Nuts should be installed on the Tweeter, Woofers, and Passive Radiator.
    As @F1nut said, a little dab of epoxy will help secure them. Just avoid at all cost, getting any epoxy on the internal threads.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
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