Corvette Advice sought....

I am looking at getting a used Corvette, and have narrowed the choices down to a 1978-82 C3, a 1990-93 ZL1, or a 2000-03 Z06...

The Z06 would be a high mile car (over 75k miles) the ZR1 about 50k miles, and the C3 would be around 25k miles....

My budget is around 20k, and nice cars can be found for all three around that price point. I am leaning towards the ZL1 because that car represents the rebirth of performance not only for the Corvette, but for many other cars as well. It is also the rarest, and the car I have my sights on is a 1 of 3 built in that color/trim. Drawback to the ZL1/Z06 is that there is nothing I can do on these cars that won’t require a very competent mechanic.

The C3 cars are still fun, and most of the things the car will need I can handle on my own. I am looking for something to work on with my son, and something to enjoy with him as well. A C3... it will be another 20years before he will be able to see over the hood!

Any insight will be appreciated. I would ask over on the vette forums, but they tend to be biased towards what they have in their driveways...


Thanks
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Comments

  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,034
    la2vegas wrote: »
    Forget the Vette, a Demon is where you want to be. >:)

    I tried...
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  • vmaxer
    vmaxer Posts: 5,116
    Sorry sir, I can’t help. But to share and enjoy with your son you can’t go wrong. Best of luck.
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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    I'll be the last person to recommend a Chrysler product to anyone, but, you want a Viper.

    After that, the ZR-1 is the car to get for collecting, but the late C3 for driving.... Build it to can-am spec and have a ball.
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,010
    edited July 2018
  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    Having owned a couple through the years I'd say say the C3's are the worst. Total rattle traps. Not sure what the tire availability is for a ZR1 but it was getting thin back when an old friend sold his 94. 01 Z06"s were known crop dusters and had motors or rings replaced under warranty. If it were me I'd look for 94-96 LT1"s or LT4 cars. I'd stay away from the ZR1"s personally. The last one I owned was a 95 LT1 coupe and it was a pretty good car overall. Getting a C4 or C5 towards the end the generation is your best bet.
  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    Even though the 90-95 ZR1's were the king of the hill back in the day you don't want to have any engine issues with the LT5 motor. You could run into a real money pit and surpass the value of the car real quick. Whatever your looking for should be an easy find since the market is flooded with many to choose from.
  • Dabutcher
    Dabutcher Posts: 2,588
    Get a manual transmission. Way more fun in any year and more collectible and valuable. Peace. D
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  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,032
    I don't think the year really matters much other then the fact when you look at it at first sight you get that tingle in your stomach. Thats when you know the year is right.
    Next thing to lookout is the condition of the interior and front end.
    Mileage is important for resale value and how many miles are left on the factory block.Someone who loved and took very good care of it is the one you want. Garage kept is highly important.
    The C3 was a special run, very nice classic body lines but gonna be tuff to find a really nice one unless your willing to pay top dollar.
    The 90-93 model years where that year they really made awesome changes to the body style. One of my personally favorites. Again same thing hard to find a really nice one for a good price. Your gonna pay top dollar for that special model.
    The Z06 is a monster and a killer platform for tuning. This is a racer and a beautiful model to boot.

    In my opinion on all your options, I can't see going wrong as they all have a special place in the car world to me anyway. I think if I was gonna buy one the Z06 is at the top of my list no question unless I found a special 93 I fell in love with.

    Good luck man, I'd love to go shopping with you as I love the hunt.
    Dan
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  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,288
    I have a c6 z51 suspension 07 ragtop. If you go non rag top, you can get a c6 05 or 06 for 20k when i bought my c6, i did drive an c5 and there was quite a difference on the ride. The late 70's modes and early 80's while they looked cool, they were not quick at all. Some even under 200 hp!. And the ride was quite jarring.

    My 07 is actually tame enough for every day driving if i wanted. We recently took it from IL yo MN and i averaged 30 to the gal with the top up and air on!. Shocked the heck out of us.

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  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,288
    edited July 2018
    I almost forgot my 07 has the same hp as the 90's z1 (c3-c5 z06 actually) and the 08 has 20 or 30 more hp. You might as well go for an 05-08 for the same 20k and get the better riding and more features car unless you are in love with the other body style.

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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    I had a 96 LT4 that I really loved. Sold it and bought an SSR for the Mrs. The chassis stiffness on the C4 has a lot to be desired. In fact, I rarely removed the top for that reason.

    The newer Vettes are vastly better than previous ones, on many levels. Of course I love the looks of the C4, the LT4 was a rocket engine, but had to sell to make room for the SSR.

    Have fun looking around!
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  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,288
    Go drive a few. Thats half the fun of it!. l3esrv8gspm3.jpg
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  • Msabot1
    Msabot1 Posts: 2,098
    1965 L78 4 spd manual...Only Stingray worth having..
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,034
    edited July 2018
    I would rather have a ‘65 fuelie coupe, but unless someone is willing to part with one for 20k, it won’t happen.
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    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,646
    For 20k, you could upgrade your Jag. :p

    l28gq25p4o5e.jpg
  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,288
    My fave body style was 68 stingray 427 with the chrome sidepipes.
    https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1967/chevrolet/corvette/100947663
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  • charley95
    charley95 Posts: 908
    I’d buy the latest model I could afford. Not all year models are good Corvettes. Usually the last of a generation is a good rule of thumb. C3’s are crap IMHO but do look good. If C4 is in the budget you can’t go wrong with an LT4 car.
  • NotaSuv
    NotaSuv Posts: 3,811
    edited July 2018
    true work of art.....timeless styling... ^^^^
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    I dunno John....re-think the criteria.

    You want a car that you both can actually work on.....so stay away from anything more computerized.

    If this will be a car eventually commissioned as his daily driver, look elsewhere. If this will be a car as his daily driver, then one must also consider safety. Young drivers are not the best drivers as we all know.

    Maybe, considering everything I just said, an SS Camaro or Cutlass 442 convertible, GTO, Buick GS, they have some metal to them and would make a better daily driver. Easier to work on too. He would also have room for some friends. Not the kind of car you would want to be taking curves at higher speeds, but that's the point. A vette begs you to step on it taking curves.

    Your talking 15 years from now the kid will actually be able to turn wrenches. Maybe a car 10-15 years older than today which puts it at the early 2000's- 2010 models. Not too many models in that time frame that you could actually work on yourself.
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  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    Also...being in California, if your hip to foreign cars, an older Ferrari can be had fairly cheap. Working on it though may require some education but the cool factor for a kid is off the charts.
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  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    Can't forget the Trans Am's too.....any kid would love them.

    https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/d/reduced-89-pontiac-trans-am-1/6618650387.html
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  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    I've had a 73, 76, 94 and 02. All had positives and negatives to some degree.

    The only one I still have is the 76 and although it was one of the highest production runs of approx. 46,558 units, mine has the L82 engine which only 5,720 were produced.

    Not monster power but a head turner and a blast to go get some ice cream with the wife on a Saturday night.

    Each one I have personally worked on and the older ones are easier for my skill set.

    For me it is all about the lines these cars represent. The mechanics you can tweak here and there. Nothing like sitting in something that sits low and goes fast.

    I'll never forget, once a few years back, some kid about 10 years old or so at the ice cream place came up and said "excuse me sir, is that a Maserati" I just laughed.

    Once you find it, you'll know.

    If I may ask, what color/trim you looking for?
  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,892
    If you get a 80, 90's version be sure to have a lift. Why, because that is where it will spend most its time, on the lift. If you just want to be a weekend warrior any of them would do. If you don't drive it much, it will have less opportunity to break.


    My girlfriend has a 1976 she has owned since new. It is pretty reliable, but man is it slow with only a 350. It is a good looking ride though.
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,053
    tonyb wrote: »
    Also...being in California, if your hip to foreign cars, an older Ferrari can be had fairly cheap. Working on it though may require some education but the cool factor for a kid is off the charts.

    Which Ferrari's are cheap? Keeping an older one running is a maintenance nightmare from a knowledge, parts and cost stand point. A labor of extreme love I'd say, and you have to have deep pockets to dedicate.

    Older ones are finicky, temperamental and not well suited to be a daily. All the other points you made earlier go out the window. Ever looked up the cost of insurance on a Ferrari for a teenage driver?

    H9

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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,034
    Ferrari has been and always will be my favorite cars, but as H9 states, there is nothing at all cheap about them. Even a Mondial, which is currently the least expensive to buy, sells for 40k for anything approaching decent shape. and an engine service requires removing the engine from the car and will set you back 12 grand every 30k miles. Oil filters are a dealer only item and those are a couple hundred each, and need replacement every 1500 miles.


    I love Ferrari, but I will need to wait for one until I hit a very large lottery jackpot.
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,053
    edited July 2018
    If I ever hit the lottery I will own a late model 246 Dino Spyder! Sex on wheels, my top 3 favorite Ferrari eye candy!

    In early 2000's you could buy a Dino driver for $60-65K. Can't touch one now for less than $150-175K. Maybe a higher mileage driver for around $100K. Certified Restored trailer queens were fetching $225-250K

    Or this one for $295K

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/246-Dino-GT/223050995216?hash=item33eee01610:g:bLsAAOSwKb1bQZ1q&vxp=mtr

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    Ferrari has been and always will be my favorite cars, but as H9 states, there is nothing at all cheap about them. Even a Mondial, which is currently the least expensive to buy, sells for 40k for anything approaching decent shape. and an engine service requires removing the engine from the car and will set you back 12 grand every 30k miles. Oil filters are a dealer only item and those are a couple hundred each, and need replacement every 1500 miles.


    I love Ferrari, but I will need to wait for one until I hit a very large lottery jackpot.

    I dunno John, I've seen a few 308"s, like the Magnum P.I. car in the low 20's. Just a thought anyway. My other suggestions was based on safety, reliability, if one was to consider them a daily driver.
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  • mrbiron
    mrbiron Posts: 5,711
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Whoa, someone Ferris Bueller’d the carp out of that thing! Maybe more than once...
    Where’s the KABOOM?!?! There’s supposed to be an Earth shattering KABOOM!!!