Picked up some M7’s..
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jeffalskdfj
Posts: 4
Greetings! I just picked up my first set of decent speakers and was hoping to get some information on what I need to fix them up. The one mid driver is seized, but everything else seems to be in good shape except for the dented tweeter and a leak in the seal around a woofer. I’m pretty new to hi-fi so if there’s already a post covering this I apologize.
I spent $40 on the pair and I’d like to get new mids and tweeters to get them working, and then possibly upgrade further down the line. What else can I do with these? The veneer is peeling a bit in some places but it’s not too bad. Also thinking I’d like some stands for them at some point.
Right now I only have a Sony TA-AV531 amplifier, will that power these well enough or will I need to upgrade? Any help is greatly appreciated! I’m looking forward to (hopefully) getting these up and running soon! Thanks!
I spent $40 on the pair and I’d like to get new mids and tweeters to get them working, and then possibly upgrade further down the line. What else can I do with these? The veneer is peeling a bit in some places but it’s not too bad. Also thinking I’d like some stands for them at some point.
Right now I only have a Sony TA-AV531 amplifier, will that power these well enough or will I need to upgrade? Any help is greatly appreciated! I’m looking forward to (hopefully) getting these up and running soon! Thanks!
Comments
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Hi, and welcome to CP. The Peerless Tweeters are excellent. Try using a hairdryer to soften the silk dome, and get it to pop back into place. eBay is about the only place you'll find salvaged MW6500s with or without the fiber gaskets. Polk CS doesn't have new replacements for either driver. Don't let someone talk you into a 6502 (which later Mon 7s had), 6503, 6510 etc.. The correct woofer for that early model, is 6500.
The Sony Receiver should be fine for now, just keep it in two channel mode.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
You have your hands full with restoration on those, take your time, and have fun..
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The frozen mid woofer can be repaired if a replacement can't be found. You also mentioned a leak at one of the passives? Is this in the surround, or between the basket and cabinet? There are solutions for both.
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And I just did a crossover refresh on a pair with those exact same crossovers.
Be aware that the schematic for them does *not* live here in the forum sticky.
If you wish I can share the bill of materials I used.
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The fuse on 23181 is completely wrong and the black (negative) binding post nut should be on the right.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Wow thanks for the responses everyone! Westmassguy I’ll try the hairdryer trick this weekend! Thanks! I didn’t know these were the Peerless tweeters either so that’s great to find out. I’ll be sure to get the 6500s too if I can’t repair this one, or depending on availability/price maybe just get one or set. If I replace one, I wouldn’t have to replace the other one, right? Since it would be the same model? And by two channel mode you mean just power the speakers alone on it?
I believe it’s in the surround..it feels like the air is coming straight out or at an angle, not to the side like I’d expect it to if it were coming between the basket and cabinet. Here’s the spot.You also mentioned a leak at one of the passives? Is this in the surround, or between the basket and cabinet? There are solutions for both.
That would be excellent if you don’t mind! I just want to get these working right now but am definitely not opposed to upgrades in the future!If you wish I can share the bill of materials I used.
Thanks for pointing that out! When I got these that piece was installed upside down, as was the tweeter. I guess the woman I bought it from had taken it to a local stereo shop and I’m not sure if they opened it up and reinstalled it incorrectly or if it was like that when she took it in. I’m guessing it being upside down could be why they’re backwards. So I just flip the fuse around then? Also how can I tell if the fuses are still good?The fuse on 23181 is completely wrong and the black (negative) binding post nut should be on the right.
Thank you all for your help so far! -
No, it's the wrong fuse entirely. It should be a 1 amp fast blow. Replace both with new ones and clean the fuse holder.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
jeffalskdfj wrote: »Wow thanks for the responses everyone! Westmassguy I’ll try the hairdryer trick this weekend! Thanks! I didn’t know these were the Peerless tweeters either so that’s great to find out. I’ll be sure to get the 6500s too if I can’t repair this one, or depending on availability/price maybe just get one or set. If I replace one, I wouldn’t have to replace the other one, right? Since it would be the same model? And by two channel mode you mean just power the speakers alone on it?
There's at least one MW6500s on eBay right now. You just need the one, however if someone is selling a matched set, good to have a spare. You can also do a saved search, and eBay will email you whenever someone lists the MW6500.
The manual on your receiver says it has a center and two surround outputs, that's why I said leave it in two channel mode. Apparently it's an early Dolby Pro Logic unit?Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Ohhh okay wow that’s surprising. Really glad you caught that! Found some 1A 250V fast blow amps on amazon for like $6 so that’s easy enough. Thanks!!No, it's the wrong fuse entirely. It should be a 1 amp fast blow. Replace both with new ones and clean the fuse holder.
Alright great! I found the listing and I’ll probably just order that one and keep the one that’s blown to try and repair as a spare later on. And okay I just wanted to clarify I understood. Yes it is a Dolby Pro Logic unit. I picked it up for $15 at a thrift store. It looked to be in good condition and thought it’d be enough to start, and if not it was cheap enough to take the gamble. If I wanted to add a center or a subwoofer (I don’t see myself going for surrounds) could I use a second amp for those? Or would it be better to upgrade to an amp that could handle everything? Thanks!!westmassguy wrote: »There's at least one MW6500s on eBay right now. You just need the one, however if someone is selling a matched set, good to have a spare. You can also do a saved search, and eBay will email you whenever someone lists the MW6500.
The manual on your receiver says it has a center and two surround outputs, that's why I said leave it in two channel mode. Apparently it's an early Dolby Pro Logic unit? -
If you want to go with 5.1, 7.1, 9.1 Atmos, there are a plethora of options for receivers, pre-amps, power amps. If you just want to kick back, and do some moderate listening, the Sony, in 2 channel mode should be fine for now. Get the speakers up and running, before you start thinking too far ahead. Just my opinion.
You'll also want to clean the Woofers and Passive Radiators also. Use real Windex, and some microfiber cloths. If the rubber surrounds are really oxidized, use a little fantastic or 409 on the surrounds only, first, then do the whole woofer/PR with the Windex. Use a circular motion, apply the Windex to the cloth, do not spray it directly on the woofer cone. Keep the cone wet, and keep turning the cloth so you're not just spreading the dirt around. When dry, the cones will be slightly tacky. This is normal.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
jeffalskdfj wrote: »I believe it’s in the surround..it feels like the air is coming straight out or at an angle, not to the side like I’d expect it to if it were coming between the basket and cabinet. Here’s the spot.
From the extreme close up, it looks like the basket isn't fully seated, or perhaps even warped? If the surround itself is nicked, that can be repaired from the back side. If the basket is warped, that becomes much more complicated to repair (read: not impossible, but a big pain in the arse to the point that a replacement would be easier to find). Also, it appears that there's a screw missing... i.e. there should be a screw in every other mounting holes, but the pic shows 2 consecutive holes sans screws. Another possibility is the gasket material is damaged underneath. Some sluthing is in order.
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tonyp063 wrote: »
If you wish I can share the bill of materials I used.
That would be excellent if you don’t mind! I just want to get these working right now but am definitely not opposed to upgrades in the future!
Here's what I used & a picture of them dry-fitted before soldering & securing.
The general consensus here is that Sonicaps are the best for vintage Polks. My budget for these didn't stretch that far, which is one of the reasons I went they way I did.
Daytons are the cheap way out. And they sound as such, albeit better than the 35+ year old dried-out electrolytics that are in there now
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Oh okay thanks! Yeah I wouldn’t be upgrading past 2 channel for awhile just thinking ahead a bit but you’re right I have enough to think about now lol. I really appreciate those cleaning tips! I wasn’t sure how to go about it so that will help out a lot. Is there anything I can do with the peeling veneer? Could I just super glue it back in place? Or is there a better alternative?westmassguy wrote: »Get the speakers up and running, before you start thinking too far ahead. Just my opinion.
You'll also want to clean the Woofers and Passive Radiators also. Use real Windex, and some microfiber cloths. If the rubber surrounds are really oxidized, use a little fantastic or 409 on the surrounds only, first, then do the whole woofer/PR with the Windex. Use a circular motion, apply the Windex to the cloth, do not spray it directly on the woofer cone. Keep the cone wet, and keep turning the cloth so you're not just spreading the dirt around. When dry, the cones will be slightly tacky. This is normal.
Okay so I misunderstood and I don’t believe it’s the surround. I think it’s between the gasket and basket. I haven’t pulled that out yet so I’ll do that tonight after work. Also from the picture it does look like that screw is missing but I checked and it’s there just hidden from the angle the picture was taken.From the extreme close up, it looks like the basket isn't fully seated, or perhaps even warped? If the surround itself is nicked, that can be repaired from the back side. If the basket is warped, that becomes much more complicated to repair (read: not impossible, but a big pain in the arse to the point that a replacement would be easier to find). Also, it appears that there's a screw missing... i.e. there should be a screw in every other mounting holes, but the pic shows 2 consecutive holes sans screws. Another possibility is the gasket material is damaged underneath. Some sluthing is in order.
That is excellent! Thank you! So you just swapped out the old pieces for the new ones and soldered them in like they were originally? And did you keep the original crossover or is that able to be upgraded too?Here's what I used & a picture of them dry-fitted before soldering & securing.
The general consensus here is that Sonicaps are the best for vintage Polks. My budget for these didn't stretch that far, which is one of the reasons I went they way I did.
Daytons are the cheap way out. And they sound as such, albeit better than the 35+ year old dried-out electrolytics that are in there now -
That is excellent! Thank you! So you just swapped out the old pieces for the new ones and soldered them in like they were originally? And did you keep the original crossover or is that able to be upgraded too?
Yes. You need to get a bit creative in fitting things, but it's doable.
Just need to replace the capacitors & resistors. The coils don't degrade with age & use like the former.
There are *many* threads on the forum about crossover upgrades on the vintage Polks. I was able to do several pairs due to getting my learn on here & asking questions if I wasn't sure.
Got a lot of help from many quality people here.
If you feel it's something beyond your desires or capabilities you can reach out to @westmassguy through his business.
Many here have had him* do their crossovers & speak highly of his work.
I will speak highly of his assistance to me regarding my rebuilds
* Holy alliteration Batman!
