Dreadnaught build question

2

Comments

  • Schurkey wrote: »
    I looked around on the A-L web site, and did not confirm that the secondary windings are a different gauge wire from the primary...but I'm sure that's true, too.

    The primary and secondary wire gauges sizes are definitely different on the 800V that I bought a few years ago. Just don't recall which was thicker.

    SDA SRS 1.2TL's w/ RD0198-1's, Sonicap, Mills
    AI-1 Dreadnought
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 1C's stock
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    SDA 2's (side by side tweeters) stock
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 3,492
    edited December 2017
    The primary and secondary wire gauges sizes are definitely different on the 800V that I bought a few years ago. Just don't recall which was thicker.
    On my 800VA, the blue/gray/violet/brown are thicker than the black/red/orange/yellow. The first set (thicker) says "2 x 115v" on the label. The thinner wires have 2 @ 0 volts and 2 @ 115V.

    qjji8mq6l8gt.jpg

    Post edited by Viking64 on
  • I personally could careless if my 1000V Dreadnought is a true 1:1 ratio per say or not. It works and sounds great, definitely better then the AI-1 Polk made.

    I use different length wires since mine sits by one speaker. Using DK's test results I choose to use the shorter wire on the side that tested out to have the minuet lower test result and the longer wire on the side that tested higher.

    It's sounds great to me, that's what matters.

    Unless someone can come up with a better design this is as good as it gets. Why argue about tech specs when the performance results speak for themselves.

    Jealousy possibly... Hard to say. If you don't like it design a better wheel.
    "Make a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day. Light
    a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."

  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,148
    Viking64 wrote: »
    The primary and secondary wire gauges sizes are definitely different on the 800V that I bought a few years ago. Just don't recall which was thicker.
    On my 800VA, the blue/gray/violet/brown are thicker than the black/red/orange/yellow. The first set (thicker) says "2 x 115v" on the label. The thinner wires have 2 @ 0 volts and 2 @ 115V.

    qjji8mq6l8gt.jpg

    Looks strangely familiar................
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,105
    More residual's Dave hehe
  • On3s&Z3r0sOn3s&Z3r0s Posts: 1,013
    3. The case I use, which you probably saw in one of the threads, is Cast Aluminum. Aluminum is great for RF shielding. The Copper adds EMI shielding, which is different. The Copper Foil MUST be separated from the Aluminum by etching primer and several top coats of Enamel. Galvanic corrosion will result if you don't.

    In what situation does shielding the transformer from stray RF matter? I've got my transformer in a steel case (plenty magnetic). It sits in a cabinet close to the floor while all the other components are about 3 feet up from that. Is it interference from the other components that is the problem or just ambient RF from nearby transmission towers or something like that?

    I haven't ever noticed any hum or anything like that. (As an aside, I had a "high-bandwidth" amp once that I could swear would hum differently depending on where it was in the house.) I'm pretty sure I've asked this question before and been told that extra shielding from aluminum is of dubious value, but seems like aluminum is all the rage now.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,491
    It is absolutely not of dubious value.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,148
    edited January 30
    3. The case I use, which you probably saw in one of the threads, is Cast Aluminum. Aluminum is great for RF shielding. The Copper adds EMI shielding, which is different. The Copper Foil MUST be separated from the Aluminum by etching primer and several top coats of Enamel. Galvanic corrosion will result if you don't.

    In what situation does shielding the transformer from stray RF matter? I've got my transformer in a steel case (plenty magnetic). It sits in a cabinet close to the floor while all the other components are about 3 feet up from that. Is it interference from the other components that is the problem or just ambient RF from nearby transmission towers or something like that?

    I haven't ever noticed any hum or anything like that. (As an aside, I had a "high-bandwidth" amp once that I could swear would hum differently depending on where it was in the house.) I'm pretty sure I've asked this question before and been told that extra shielding from aluminum is of dubious value, but seems like aluminum is all the rage now.
    A guy way smarter than me confirmed the advantages of a shielded enclosure:
    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/74472/the-ai-1-dreadnought-project-pt-1/p1
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,148
    F1nut wrote: »
    It is absolutely not of dubious value.
    Baked Potato?
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 3,492
    Baked Potato?

    yl2xhdzknrxe.jpg

  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,148
    Viking64 wrote: »
    Baked Potato?

    yl2xhdzknrxe.jpg

    Pugtastic!
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 582
    Same subject different question. I have a 115/120 VAC Isolation transformer from an old combo veriac/isolation transformer. Would that be OK to use ? Even if it were not an A/L would it make a good experiment ?
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,770
    Will it pass 5+ amps without saturating? If so, it's worth a try.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,491
    There are numerous isolation transformers out there, but few are audio grade.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 582
    F1nut wrote: »
    There are numerous isolation transformers out there, but few are audio grade.

    Thanks.
  • On3s&Z3r0sOn3s&Z3r0s Posts: 1,013
    F1nut wrote: »
    It is absolutely not of dubious value.

    <Laughing at self for being a dum bass> My bad for taking the word of the guy I got the case from.
    A guy way smarter than me confirmed the advantages of a shielded enclosure:
    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/74472/the-ai-1-dreadnought-project-pt-1/p1

    Thank you for the link! That thread looks familiar, but I'm sure I glazed over before getting down to the spot with the measurements after the transformer was in the aluminum enclosure. Sounds like whenever I get around to my next batch of 2B upgrades it'll be time to move to the Neutriks since I need a new box anyway. Till then maybe I'll buy some heavy duty aluminum foil and make an AV-1000 sized baked potato.


  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 463
    edited February 13
    Well, got ' er done!

    1dkep9j46j4h.jpeg

    Thank you @DarqueKnight for the science experiment that created the dreadnaught!
    Thanks also to @westmassguy, @f1nut and all the other member here who provided invaluable information on building my rediculously Ghetto version. Might be the vodka talking but you guys ROCK!

    My case was created out of an old GE aluminum meter box i cut down. I lined the inside with bed liner, then copper tape, wrapped the 800 va transformer with dynomat (probably totally unnecessary), then covered the outside of the box with aluminum tape for that polished look.

    This journey was part total PITA/ part fun I'm sure I will be happy with the end results . Now if i can only get my crossovers back from DHS...
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
    Sangean HD FM Tuner

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,770
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Thanks also to... ...all the other member here who provided invaluable information on building my rediculously Ghetto version.
    You've got nothing to be ashamed of.

    JUST WAIT until I finish mine. You guys "ain't seen nothin' yet" in terms of creative re-purposing of goofy old enclosures.

    No promises in terms of completion date...it's been two years and counting.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,865
    With cans on, I used to be able to hear a < .5dB shift, but sitting in a room with all the reflections, you'd never hear any shift at the levels you're talking.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 463
    After 30 years of being around heavy equipment and loud music I'm not sure I'd be able to hear a 5db difference...
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
    Sangean HD FM Tuner

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
  • Gerres26Gerres26 Posts: 349
    I started ordering some parts for my Dreadnought build today. I couldn't put it off any longer. I have a question though, what are you guys using to terminate the transformer wires to the back of the speakon connectors inside the enclosure? I've been reading through basically all of the old threads but didn't see it mentioned.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,105
    edited February 18

    IIRC
    Some use quick connects and some have soldered direct.

    Personally I'd be in the gold plated quick connects camp.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,491
    You're twisting two wires together for each connection, fastons are the way to go.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 3,492
    If you add jumpers between the +1 and +2 and the -1 and -2 contacts, you can use a 4-conductor wire for your interconnect cable.
  • Gerres26Gerres26 Posts: 349
    F1nut wrote: »
    You're twisting two wires together for each connection, fastons are the way to go.

    Which fastons and where is the best place to buy? Do you recommend using the same thing for the wires in the speaker cabinet or solder those since it is just one wire each?
  • RandyCroissantRandyCroissant Posts: 374
    edited February 18
    I use gold plated copper fastons available at Autozone
    Post edited by RandyCroissant on
    Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD
    Polk SDA2btl highly modded
    Polk SDA 1C
    Polk CS350 LS x2
    Polk m5jr
    Kimber 8TC
    Sony 55" Bravia
    Wish list SVS sub

  • vcwatkinsvcwatkins Posts: 1,699
    I believe this is what I used, but I was ordering other parts at the time so shipping cost was not an issue.
    https://parts-express.com/gold-12-awg-1-4-female-disconnect-5-pair--095-810

    3amj97etv6mc.jpg
    Den: Rega RP6 (mods) * AT33PTGII * Jolida jd9 (mods) * Roon (Sonic Transporter) * PS Audio DirectStream Jr. * Joule-Electra LA-100 iii * Sunfire Signature II * PSAudio p3 * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 1.2 (full mods)
    Office: Roon * ProJect Pre Box S2 * Pass Amp Camp Amp * PSAudio Dectet * MIT S3 * Hartley Reference Mini-Tower
    Beach: Music Hall MMF5.1se (mods) * Speed Box II * DL103r * Belles 20a Phono * Roon * Schiit Yggdrasil * Belles 20a Pre * First Watt F5 Clone * PSAudio Dectet * MIT S3 * Polk SRS 2.3tl (mods)
  • Gerres26Gerres26 Posts: 349
    Did you use them for the connection to the neutrik inside the speaker as well? ...also, i was thinking of using canare 4s11 cable for my new interconnect cable since thats what my speaker cables are made from, what gauge should i use for this? I believe i ordered the neutrik connector with the screw down terminal.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,105
    Gerres26 wrote: »
    Did you use them for the connection to the neutrik inside the speaker as well? ...also, i was thinking of using canare 4s11 cable for my new interconnect cable since thats what my speaker cables are made from, what gauge should i use for this? I believe i ordered the neutrik connector with the screw down terminal.

    Not all the Neutrik's are air tight. If these are on the speaker make sure they are.
    Canare 4s11 is only one gauge, so use it. The smaller gauges are 4s6 and 4s8 i believe. Go with the 4s11 and twist 2 of the 4 wires together.
2
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!