New 1C Purchase Questions



  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 152
    Last thing was to install spikes bought here:
    I started by removing the plastic feet on the bottom cap. Then I drilled a 7/32" hole, sprayed a little water in it, added a drop of Guerilla glue, then screwed in the stud. This anchors them in solid. cqqel85fewl3.jpeg
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,793
    Any glue that foams creating air bubbles in it cannot make a good bond. Throw that stuff away and next time try 5 minute epoxy.

    The spikes do look good.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 152
    The expansion actually allows it to penetrate the pores in the wood and fill any gaps in the studs' threads. I've used this stuff on a boat I restored and it is wicked strong. Epoxy would have been a PITA because I needed such a small amount in each hole. I may use epoxy to anchor the spike bases to the cap though. Haven't decided if that's necessary yet.

    I like these spikes because you can tilt the speakers back and unscrew the points, get placement dialed in, then reinstall.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,831
    edited February 12
    On similar speaker bottoms I have just ran a bolt/washer through from inside the cabinet and tightened down good and tight on the same spikes. I buy mine in 1/4" x 20tpi pattern and just buy some new bolts instead of the threaded rod sent with.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 152
    verb wrote: »
    Hey I noticed you put some dynamat on the brace in between the MW's. Never seen that before. Is that recommended?

    I tapped along the cabinet area looking for potential resonance points and found that and in the center of the 4 drivers as questionable. May have been unnecessary but WTH. Can't hurt right??? :#
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