Monitor 10 in Rosewood

Picked up a nice set of monitor 10 yesterday that are the rosewood finish. These are earlyish versions with the odd old style grille attachment and peerless tweeters, but still the coated cones and two fuses.

One tweeter is bad (tested and taken apart) so I am in need of one. They have the little hole/dimple.

I will recap as well. There is a light grey mortite type material used to gasket the drivers and crossover/connecting cup so I will replace that as well. What do you guys use to replace that usually. I have some of the mortitie stuff.
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Citation 1, WOPL 400, Dynaco ST70, Pioneer SA9100, 5580, Marantz 4400
ADS 1590, AR9, Altec Santiago, Apogee Slant 6, KEF 104/2, Tannoy Mayfair, Allison One, Dahlquist M-907, JBL 4313b
Technics SL1015, Denon DP-62L w/103

Comments

  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 19,003
    :) Nice loudspeakers.


    Morphologically virtual twins (so to speak) to my Monitor Series Model 7As (purchased in 1978) - right down to the "rosewood" vinyl.

    It's pretty hideous, isn't it? :|


    11208642076_3f7f8db8b1_b.jpgPolkmonitor7Asn4900 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr
  • verbverb Posts: 3,327
    mhardy6647 wrote: »
    :) Nice loudspeakers.


    Morphologically virtual twins (so to speak) to my Monitor Series Model 7As (purchased in 1978) - right down to the "rosewood" vinyl.

    It's pretty hideous, isn't it? :|


    11208642076_3f7f8db8b1_b.jpgPolkmonitor7Asn4900 by Mark Hardy, on Flickr

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  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 2,066
    verb wrote: »
    . You should open up a museum!

    He threatened to once. The price of admission was going to be that following your visit, you had to take a piece of equipment upon your departure.

  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 19,003
    It may well come to that.
    The Polks won't be at the top of the door prize list, though! :)
  • drugolfdrugolf Posts: 22
    Back on point here....

    I am need of one Peerless tweeter if anybody has a spare.

    Also, looking at the crossover, What brand caps have you guys had good results with? I tend to lean towards the 5% Daytons. I see motorhead recommended Sonicaps in another thread. What do you think about just going with an NPE for the 34UF cap? Change the resistors?
    Citation 1, WOPL 400, Dynaco ST70, Pioneer SA9100, 5580, Marantz 4400
    ADS 1590, AR9, Altec Santiago, Apogee Slant 6, KEF 104/2, Tannoy Mayfair, Allison One, Dahlquist M-907, JBL 4313b
    Technics SL1015, Denon DP-62L w/103
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,832
    Or two 17uf film caps for the 34uf. Not much sense to put another NPE in there. Polypropylene film caps are much better and will out live the NPE by generations.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,375
    Sonicap has all the values you need and sound way better than Dayton/Bennic.
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  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 19,003
    edited February 10
    I concur, FWIW. The Daytons (rebranded Bennics) are good cheap capacitors (far superior to generic NP electrolytics, e.g.), but these loudspeakers do deserve better than the Daytons. :)

    Save the Daytons for the Jensen era Advents, EPI "T/E series" -- stuff like that :|


  • drugolfdrugolf Posts: 22
    What? Install $170 worth of caps into a $200 pair of speakers! Monitor 10's are nice speakers, but they ain't that nice.

    See this is the problem with caps. You've got the Dayton price level, and then typically too big a jump up.
    Citation 1, WOPL 400, Dynaco ST70, Pioneer SA9100, 5580, Marantz 4400
    ADS 1590, AR9, Altec Santiago, Apogee Slant 6, KEF 104/2, Tannoy Mayfair, Allison One, Dahlquist M-907, JBL 4313b
    Technics SL1015, Denon DP-62L w/103
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 19,003
    there's all kind of price points - see www.madisound.com (e.g.) or www.partsconnexion.com
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 14,876
    Dru I agree. I don't think the 10s are worth that kind of investment though many have. You would hear the difference in caps but you'll never get around the 10s design flaw.

    I love the 10s and would love to have some in the garage but they'll never be a main speaker for me.

    Also, while they may sell for $200 or less, you've got a lot more value in them than that. If you look at it as an investment go cheap. If you look at it as personal enjoyment, spend more. The one area almost every speaker builder cuts costs with is the crossover. Nobody sees it and nobody ever thinks about the impact it has on sound. Many don't even believe it does impact the sound.
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  • drugolfdrugolf Posts: 22
    Are the drivers on these supposed to be gasket sealed when mounted?

    I got a replacement tweeter so all is good. They sound very nice, even before new caps.
    Citation 1, WOPL 400, Dynaco ST70, Pioneer SA9100, 5580, Marantz 4400
    ADS 1590, AR9, Altec Santiago, Apogee Slant 6, KEF 104/2, Tannoy Mayfair, Allison One, Dahlquist M-907, JBL 4313b
    Technics SL1015, Denon DP-62L w/103
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,832
    drugolf wrote: »
    Are the drivers on these supposed to be gasket sealed when mounted?

    Yes
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,375
    drugolf wrote: »
    What? Install $170 worth of caps into a $200 pair of speakers! Monitor 10's are nice speakers, but they ain't that nice.

    See this is the problem with caps. You've got the Dayton price level, and then typically too big a jump up.

    Why not? I'm installing $1500 worth of crossover components into speakers that retailed for $900 and it'll be worth every penny.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,832
    F1nut wrote: »
    drugolf wrote: »
    What? Install $170 worth of caps into a $200 pair of speakers! Monitor 10's are nice speakers, but they ain't that nice.

    See this is the problem with caps. You've got the Dayton price level, and then typically too big a jump up.

    Why not? I'm installing $1500 worth of crossover components into speakers that retailed for $900 and it'll be worth every penny.

    Oooooo do tell o'chap
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,375
    All in good time.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,772
    Ok, now I'll be the impatient one... Tell us now! :D
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,113
    F1nut wrote: »
    All in good time.
    I got a pint of O negative waiting for ya....Spill
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  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,832
    edited February 20
    F1nut wrote: »
    All in good time.
    I got a pint of O negative waiting for ya....Spill

    He is more a AB negative kind of guy.....
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,772
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    All in good time.
    I got a pint of O negative waiting for ya....Spill

    He is more a AB negative kind of guy.....

    More like ABnormal...
  • drugolf wrote: »
    There is a light grey mortite type material used to gasket the drivers and crossover/connecting cup so I will replace that as well. What do you guys use to replace that usually. I have some of the mortitie stuff.

    Hey Dru,

    Don't mind these guys. They're an easily distracted bunch.

    Armacell is the preferred material for making new gaskets. About $11 for a 30' roll at Home Depot. It worked great on my 10Bs.

    Also, FWIW, I sprang for the Sonicaps in my crossovers and have no regrets. Westmassguy, the go-to expert here, promised me "mo' better bass" with them and he wasn't kidding. I know the M10s sometimes get dismissed as mere party speakers but I like mine just fine.

    Hope all's well with you. Let's catch up some time.

    Michael
  • drugolfdrugolf Posts: 22
    SO now I am a little confused. I went to start my cap and resistor replacement and I am not sure about what I have here. The two appear to have the same values but different brands of caps. Also, these do not match the schematic for the early version, nor photos of other monitor 10's I can find. Looks more like Monitor 7. ? What do you guys think is going on here? There is a 12uf Mylar and a 33uf NPE. 2 each 2.7ohm resistors only.

    Also a photo of one of the 6.5" drivers.
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    bx1cyqu77thp.jpg

    Citation 1, WOPL 400, Dynaco ST70, Pioneer SA9100, 5580, Marantz 4400
    ADS 1590, AR9, Altec Santiago, Apogee Slant 6, KEF 104/2, Tannoy Mayfair, Allison One, Dahlquist M-907, JBL 4313b
    Technics SL1015, Denon DP-62L w/103
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,375
    Those are early 10's. Replace with the same values as found.

    12uF
    33uF
    2.7 ohm x 2
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • JaybeezJaybeez Posts: 681
    drugolf wrote: »
    What? Install $170 worth of caps into a $200 pair of speakers! Monitor 10's are nice speakers, but they ain't that nice.

    See this is the problem with caps. You've got the Dayton price level, and then typically too big a jump up.

    $170 would make the $200 speakers sound like today's $800 speakers, so you'd be money ahead.

    To the point of whether the investment is worth it overall given the speaker you're starting with, it may depend on the type of music you listen to.

    I had 7s and 10s in the same room, positioned correctly, etc. Found the 7s were more focused and great / better for most music. To my ears, the 10's really shone on jazz and classical music.

    They just sounded a bit more open and conveyed the wider range of instruments associated with those types of music.
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