Which Monitor 10's Do I Have?

rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
edited March 2014 in Vintage Speakers
How can I determine which M10's I have? I just picked them up two days ago.

They don't have the peerless tweeter. I can tell you that much.

Any help will be appreciated.
Post edited by rekterx on

Comments

  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 1,871
    edited February 2014
    Post a picture. Easiest way for us to tell you.
  • MysteryMystery Posts: 2,462
    edited February 2014
    If you have silver dome tweeters, they are 10B's.

    Monitor 10A either has peerless or SL-1000.
    Monitor 10B either has SL-1000 (bright brushed steel face) or silver dome SL-2000 tweeter
    Not sure what 10C has.
    Monitor 10 series II has black dome SL-2500 tweeter.

    Here is my 10B's:
    attachment.php?attachmentid=94977&d=1393278595

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch Heresy, Epicure 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A.
    DB Plus 880, AR 48S, Smaller Advents. SUBs: Monitor Audio. Pre: HK AP2500, C1, Tandberg 3002A.
    Amps:
    BB275, Crown XLS1500, QSC, Rotel, Luxman R-114, Nakamichi...
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    Thanks for responding guys.

    I have tweeters that are clearly labeled as "Silver Coil Dome." So I guess I have 10B's.

    So what do I need to be aware of?
    Does this come into play at crossover upgrade time?
  • MysteryMystery Posts: 2,462
    edited February 2014
    check the schematics sticky in this forum for 10B's.

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch Heresy, Epicure 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A.
    DB Plus 880, AR 48S, Smaller Advents. SUBs: Monitor Audio. Pre: HK AP2500, C1, Tandberg 3002A.
    Amps:
    BB275, Crown XLS1500, QSC, Rotel, Luxman R-114, Nakamichi...
  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 2,050
    edited February 2014
    Mystery wrote: »
    Not sure what 10C has.

    10C? Never heard of such a thing!
  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 2,050
    edited February 2014
    rekterx wrote: »
    So I guess I have 10B's.

    So what do I need to be aware of?
    Does this come into play at crossover upgrade time?

    The crossovers can be upgraded with a direct replacement of the current caps and resistors while also replacing the polyswitch with either a jumper wire or a 0.2 - 0.5 Ohm resistor. Done this way, you'd use RDO-194 direct replacement tweeters from Polk. This is the most commonly done Monitor 10B upgrade currently.

    Alternatively, you could do a "TL Mod" upgrade to the crossovers. Some think this gives superior results. This would include using an additional cap and altering the values of one or two of the resistors on each crossover. You'd also use the RDO-198 tweeters in this TL mod, which some CP members prefer over the 194s. They're both far superior to the SL-2000s that were stock in the 10Bs.

    Dave (Westmassguy) is a great resource for info on the TL mod. I know he's done it to his 10s and probably to several other pairs for others.

    You can get the 194 or 198 tweeters directly from Polk CS. Tell them you're a Forum member and you'll get a discount and free shipping.
  • MysteryMystery Posts: 2,462
    edited February 2014
    I see few threads mentioning 10C so put in there but they may have confused with the series ii.

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch Heresy, Epicure 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A.
    DB Plus 880, AR 48S, Smaller Advents. SUBs: Monitor Audio. Pre: HK AP2500, C1, Tandberg 3002A.
    Amps:
    BB275, Crown XLS1500, QSC, Rotel, Luxman R-114, Nakamichi...
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    Mystery wrote: »
    check the schematics sticky in this forum for 10B's.

    I don't see the schematic for the 10B listed as 10B. But I found the one with the SL2000 tweeter. This one: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18776&d=1155784729

    That's it. Right?
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    teekay0007 wrote: »
    The crossovers can be upgraded with a direct replacement of the current caps and resistors while also replacing the polyswitch with either a jumper wire or a 0.2 - 0.5 Ohm resistor. Done this way, you'd use RDO-194 direct replacement tweeters from Polk. This is the most commonly done Monitor 10B upgrade currently.

    Alternatively, you could do a "TL Mod" upgrade to the crossovers. Some think this gives superior results. This would include using an additional cap and altering the values of one or two of the resistors on each crossover. You'd also use the RDO-198 tweeters in this TL mod, which some CP members prefer over the 194s. They're both far superior to the SL-2000s that were stock in the 10Bs.

    Dave (Westmassguy) is a great resource for info on the TL mod. I know he's done it to his 10s and probably to several other pairs for others.

    You can get the 194 or 198 tweeters directly from Polk CS. Tell them you're a Forum member and you'll get a discount and free shipping.

    BINGO!

    Thanks.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 10,219
    edited February 2014
    rekterx wrote: »
    I don't see the schematic for the 10B listed as 10B. But I found the one with the SL2000 tweeter. This one: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18776&d=1155784729

    That's it. Right?

    correct
  • AFEuphmanAFEuphman Posts: 55
    edited February 2014
    Hey Mystery, is that a BA a400 I see lurking back there?! I just finished refoaming a new to me pair of nice light oak/wheat a150s. Would love to get your opinions on your big brothers! I do like mine (plus high WAF) :-)

    How do you all like the monitor 10's? I've got a pair of 5B's and have always thought about how the larger Monitors compared.

    OK, I'll stop thread-jacking! Enjoy your 10's and go for the upgrade!
  • MysteryMystery Posts: 2,462
    edited February 2014
    AFEuphman wrote: »
    Hey Mystery, is that a BA a400 I see lurking back there?! I just finished refoaming a new to me pair of nice light oak/wheat a150s. Would love to get your opinions on your big brothers! I do like mine (plus high WAF) :-)

    Yes, A400's, one of my favorites. A150's have quite good reputation but no match to A400's.

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch Heresy, Epicure 20+,T/E 280, Polk 4,4.5,5A.
    DB Plus 880, AR 48S, Smaller Advents. SUBs: Monitor Audio. Pre: HK AP2500, C1, Tandberg 3002A.
    Amps:
    BB275, Crown XLS1500, QSC, Rotel, Luxman R-114, Nakamichi...
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,064
    edited March 2014
    The "TL" Mod can be done, with a few caveats. See schematic_m10_sl3000mod. The 2 ohm shunt resistor is changed to 2.7 ohms, the Polyswitch should be replaced with a 0.5 ohm Mills MRA-12 resistor (if you like a "hotter" top end, use a 0.22 or 0.33 ohm), the 0.4mh inductor must be changed to 0.27mh. The existing .4mh Inductor is 22 gauge. the new .27mh inductor is supposed to be .5 ohms. Parts Express can special order 22 gauge from Jantzen, however it's easier to purchase a stock 20 gauge .27mh inductor, and change the 2.7 ohm resistor downstream to 3.0 ohms to make up the difference, and keep the overall DCR for the shunt the same. All Capacitor values remain the same. You will need to change the 1/8" quick connect on the white/ground lead to 3/16" to accommodate the RDO-198-1 Tweeter.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    Thanks for the continued responses. Especially you westmassguy.

    I have a further question. Looking at the tweeter we concluded that I have 10B's. Looking at the list of speakers at polksda.com we have the following info listed concerning years the speakers were produced:

    M10 '77-82
    M10 series 2 '90
    M10A '79-84
    M10B '79

    Here's the deal. I pulled the drivers to do the JB Weld thing. They are all 6503's and have SDA-CRS on them. Three of them have a 1985 date stamped on them. The last one has a 1991 date stamped on it.

    Those dates don't seem to correlate at all with info on sda.com. Is the info on polksda.com accurate? Or do you think that none of my four drivers are original?

    And yes .... I love the M10's. While I am a complete novice at electronics I know that with enough prep I can do the crossovers and replace the tweeters.

    But help me out my 6503 mystery.
  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 2,050
    edited March 2014
    rekterx wrote: »
    ...we concluded that I have 10B's. Looking at the list of speakers at polksda.com we have the following info listed concerning years the speakers were produced:

    M10 '77-82
    M10 series 2 '90
    M10A '79-84
    M10B '79

    They are all 6503's and have SDA-CRS on them. Three of them have a 1985 date stamped on them. The last one has a 1991 date stamped on it.

    Those dates don't seem to correlate at all with info on sda.com. Is the info on polksda.com accurate? Or do you think that none of my four drivers are original?

    And yes .... I love the M10's. While I am a complete novice at electronics I know that with enough prep I can do the crossovers and replace the tweeters.

    But help me out my 6503 mystery.

    I think the info from that website has some inaccuracies. I bought two pairs of Monitor 10Bs new in the '88-'89 timeframe. I think 10Bs were made from about '85-'89 or '90. The 6503s were used in all of the Monitor 10Bs (and maybe others in the Monitor series) and several of the SDA models. Your speakers were likely made in '85 and three of your MW6503s are original and one is a replacement driver.

    To get a better idea as to when your speakers were made, you might also pull some of the other parts (eg. tweeters, binding post cups and/or passive radiators) and check for date stickers or inspection dates on them. They'd have to have been made after the latest of the dates - if the dates are kind of in a "cluster".
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,064
    edited March 2014
    Don't get hung up on the date stamp or if it's stamped for CRS or 11T etc. A MW6503 is a MW6503. The woofer doesn't care what model it's used in. As long as they're all the same, and the correct model for your Polk, you're good to go. As teekay said, most likely a replacement driver. I've purchased several salvaged drivers for my 2As. They had different date stamps and Polk models stamped on them.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    Thanks guys.
  • sorry to revive such an old thread, but what are the benefits of the TL upgrade? Meaning, what can I expect to be different?

    Thanks,
    Mike
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