New Laser (VAM 1202) Wanted

I need a new laser assembly for my Music Hall CD player, mmf cd-25. I contacted Music Hall and they suggested the usual online auction sites. There seems to be a wide variation in prices and delivery schedules. Does anyone here have these for sale? Otherwise, can anyone recommend a reputable seller for them? Thanks.
Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,984
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    Thank you, F1nut.
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    Update: I ordered a new laser unit, soldered it in without any problems and it would not read the table of contents. I checked for cold solder joints, continuity and plugs to the pcb several times without luck. I discovered that I still had my father’s Marantz in the garage which is working fine. Before I get rid of the old unit, should I try anything else with the laser? I did not mess with the setting on the tiny potentiometer on the back of the pcb. I’m thinking about getting a cd transport and keeping the old Marantz as a backup. Any suggestions in the range of the Cambridge CXC ($450)?
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
  • agfrostagfrost Posts: 2,135
    maxward wrote: »
    Update: I ordered a new laser unit, soldered it in without any problems and it would not read the table of contents. I checked for cold solder joints, continuity and plugs to the pcb several times without luck. I discovered that I still had my father’s Marantz in the garage which is working fine. Before I get rid of the old unit, should I try anything else with the laser? I did not mess with the setting on the tiny potentiometer on the back of the pcb. I’m thinking about getting a cd transport and keeping the old Marantz as a backup. Any suggestions in the range of the Cambridge CXC ($450)?

    I'm aware that some lasers come with a solder bridge that needs to be removed before it will work (the bridge provides protection from electrostatic discharge IIRC). Did yours have that/did you remove it?
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Marantz DV-9500 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,984
    It definitely has a solder bridge and will not work unless it's removed.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    Thanks, @agfrost. I had not read about that one and the online instructions I used didn’t mention it. They did say to use static precautions, which I did. I’ll look into it.
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,984
    It's nothing nothing than a blob of solder on the tiny PCB attached to the laser body.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    Thanks. I’ll open it back up and get that done.
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,984
    That should have read, nothing more than...
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • agfrostagfrost Posts: 2,135
    This thread refers to a "shorting clip" which may serve the same purpose on the VAM1202. Good luck getting it sorted out.

    https://www.hifigear.co.uk/blog/marantz-cd63se-laser-transport-mechanism-replacement/
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Marantz DV-9500 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    Thanks again, guys. I compared my old and new pcbs and the old one has a place where a solder bridge would likely have been, but there was no evidence that one was there. The new one has no solder bridge. Perhaps the metal shorting clip now serves the same purpose. I used the same link to help me with the installation, and it did not mention a solder bridge.
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 2,808
    Where's that confounded bridge?
  • Tony MTony M Posts: 5,589
    It's been burned. >:)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    And so have I. I’m tempted to order another laser and try again. Also tempting to labor over the player with a 10-pound sledge for a couple of minutes.
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,984
    maxward wrote: »
    Thanks again, guys. I compared my old and new pcbs and the old one has a place where a solder bridge would likely have been, but there was no evidence that one was there. The new one has no solder bridge. Perhaps the metal shorting clip now serves the same purpose. I used the same link to help me with the installation, and it did not mention a solder bridge.

    Interesting. Sorry, I thought they had a solder bridge.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • billbillwbillbillw Posts: 5,774
    edited March 12
    It should definitely have a shorting solder somewhere. The location can vary due to production mods through the years. I'd do some research and look closer. BTW, the best way to remove those solder pads is with solder wick. Any other way can put too much heat into the board.
    Main 2-ch:
    Sony SS-M9; LSA Statement Amplifier; VPI HW-19 Mk3/Sumiko Premier FT-4/Audio Technica AT15SA; Pass Labs DIY Pearl Phono; Sony SCD-C333ES SACD Changer; TEAC UD-301 DAC; Dell/WYSE 5010 (running Daphile); Sony ST-SA5ES Tuner; Nanotec Golden Strada speaker cables (SR+#79 Shotgun); Audioquest Coral interconnects
  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    Thanks, @billbillw. I will have another look. I’m now using my dad’s old Marantz CD-53,which has the same mechanism, so I’m not going to be in a hurry. I thought I gave it away when he died, but the younger person I gave his other stereo gear to did not own any discs at the time.
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    I’m resurrecting this to solicit some opinions. I dove into the old Marantz to clean old grease out of the drawer mechanism and put some fresh stuff in. Not surprisingly, the laser unit is identical to the Music Hall I failed to repair. I am wondering if there would be any audible benefit to completing the laser repair, given that I only use both players as transports. The Music Hall looks like it has a better power supply and is a little heavier, but the Marantz sounds about the same, as far as I can recall. Do you think I’m better off forgetting about repairing the Music Hall or should I keep trying? How about investing in a dedicated transport? Thanks for any ideas.
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,984
    There is another aspect to this that I didn't think about before. It is possible after changing the optical pickup that the player needs to be reset via a computer or CD-rom that only an authorized repair firm would have. You might want to ask Music Hall about that.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • maxwardmaxward Posts: 114
    I’ll email Music Hall about that possibility. Thanks.
    Thorens TD-160C; Sumiko Talisman S; Jolida JD9; Marantz CD-53; Micromega Mydac
    Joule-Electra LA-100; Balanced Power Technology AC conditioner;
    Odyssey Khartago monos (with most factory upgrades); Magnepan MG 3.6R
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