bi-wiring rtiA5

anybody tried to bi-wire your rtia5? how does it perform after bi-wiring? I want to do bi-wire with my Yamaha RX-V2400, it has got speaker A B setup allowes to bi-wire. Any thoughts? Happy new year :)

Comments

  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    if you have the wire, try it. expect others to chime in w/"don't waste your time."
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Simply replace the stock jumper plates with high quality speaker cable.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • PixOtt
    PixOtt Posts: 15
    F1nut wrote: »
    Simply replace the stock jumper plates with high quality speaker cable.

    16 gauge and any recommended brands? thanks

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    edited January 2018
    If you are stuck on gauge, it's not high quality speaker cable. However, it would be better than the stock plates.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    PixOtt wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Simply replace the stock jumper plates with high quality speaker cable.

    16 gauge and any recommended brands? thanks
    start w/whatever you have though I'd go heavier than that between the amp/AVR and speakers.

    my $0.01

    PS: welcome to Club Polk if you haven't receive that

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    This is the "don't waset you time" that gp4 mentioned.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • I use 14 gauge quad cable from blue jeans and am fine with it. Personally, I would spend my money on other things.....The biggest difference that I’ve noticed in my setup is the crossover mod on my RTi8’s. I used Sonicap caps and Mills resistors.