Question: why Hurricane nuts instead of Tee Nuts

SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
edited March 2014 in Vintage Speakers
Are the hurricane nuts stouter that tee nuts? I would think that tee nuts would alleviate concerns about the nuts backing out while assembling the speakers. What am I missing?
Post edited by SciFiTom on
«1

Comments

  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,016
    edited March 2014
    If installed properly, hurricane nuts are much more secure than t-nuts
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 994
    edited March 2014
    SciFiTom wrote: »
    Are the hurricane nuts stouter that tee nuts? I would think that tee nuts would alleviate concerns about the nuts backing out while assembling the speakers. What am I missing?
    The key to installing the h-nuts is too get the hole properly sized so the body of the h-nut fits tight enough that you have to pull the h-nut into the hole with a screw. Do not try to drive them into the holes with a hammer. I have the h-nuts in my speakers and they work great.

    The tapered barbs on the t-nuts will not stay embedded in particle board type materials. Maybe the first time you use them but after repeated use they will come loose.

    51u0IxJK2FL._AA160_.jpg 41w8gr6S%2BcL._AA160_.jpg
    hurricane nut
    tee nut
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
    edited March 2014
    TennMan, the pictures you provided explain the matter perfectly. I thought I saw just a bulge at the tip on an image I saw elsewhere, not the crimps shown in your pictures. The back plate also looks thicker than the tee nuts.

    Thank you, Gentlemen
  • SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
    edited March 2014
    Oops, Westmassguy said "if installed properly." Would that mean by pressing them with a screw, and getting the hole diameter correct, or does one need to find a method to turn the H-nuts in following the crimps?
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,016
    edited March 2014
    Properly means using the exact drill size listed for the H-Nut you're using. The #8-32 requires a 13/64" bit. I use three drill bits to enlarge the hole slowly. Start with a 1/8", and it will follow the original screw hole. Use low speed. Then switch to an 11/64", then finally the 13/64'. If you try to drill out the 13/64" you risk splitting the particle board, or blowing out a chunk on the back side. I use a 8-32 X 1" or 1 1/4" Phillips machine screw with a 1/2" diameter washer under it. Hold the H-Nut under the hole, hand thread the machine screw to start, then use a variable speed drill to SLOWLY thread the screw, and draw the H-Nut up into the hole. As soon as it bottoms out, your done. Don't over tighten, the sound of the drill will tell you when the H-Nut is set. The washer keeps the screw head from sinking into the particle board.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,599
    edited March 2014
    Adding to the fray, T-nuts will destroy the thin particle board or MDF on the basket mounting flanges.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,016
    edited March 2014
    Like this:
    952279522895229
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 994
    edited March 2014
    If you want to go to the extra trouble you can do a neater job with the h-nuts if you remove the part of the h-nut marked with an X in the photo below. That way the h-nut won't protrude into the holes for the drivers.

    The way I did it was to clamp the part with the red X in a vice, thread a long screw (to use as a lever) into the h-nut and rock it back and forth a few times until that portion of the flange snaps off. File down the rough edges and you are ready to install.

    h-nut2.jpg
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
    edited March 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Adding to the fray, T-nuts will destroy the thin particle board or MDF on the basket mounting flanges.
    Agreed, and understood. Thank you for the comment. I see the Truth of it.

    TennMan:
    "If you want to go to the extra trouble you can do a neater job with the h-nuts if you remove the part of the h-nut marked with an X in the photo below. That way the h-nut won't protrude into the holes for the drivers."

    I was wondering about that. I'd think this would be mandatory for people who've added damping material to the baskets.

    Westmassguy:

    again you've taken the trouble to thoroughly spell out your thoughts. Most gracious, and thanks for clarifying a number of points along the way. I thought of the washer all by myself, though. ;)

    Appreciatively,
    Tom
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,599
    edited March 2014
    Go point Tennman, it does make for a cleaner install.

    When I installed Hurricane nuts on my RTiA's I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the portion you marked with an X.

    To anyone doing this, when you go to install the altered Hurricane nut, line up the nut with the cut off area flush with the flange, then rotate it counter clockwise about 1/4" before you draw it in with the screw as the nut will rotate clockwise. This will ensure the cut off area will be flush with the flange when it's seated.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
    edited March 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Go point Tennman, it does make for a cleaner install.

    When I installed Hurricane nuts on my RTiA's I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the portion you marked with an X.

    To anyone doing this, when you go to install the altered Hurricane nut, line up the nut with the cut off area flush with the flange, then rotate it counter clockwise about 1/4" before you draw it in with the screw as the nut will rotate clockwise. This will ensure the cut off area will be flush with the flange when it's seated.

    I was wondering about this point. Thank you for citing specific values. I presume the directions are as viewed from outside the cabinet.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,599
    edited March 2014
    Yes.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    Well, well, well .... would you lookie here? My hurricane nut questions have been asked and answered .... in detail!

    This place is a wonder of wonders.

    Westmass .... you da man! And thank you TennMan for the pics.
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    And thanks F1 for the additional tip on installation.
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,016
    edited March 2014
    I've cut a flat on them with tin snips too
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 994
    edited March 2014
    Good tip from F1 about rotating the h-nut a few degrees before inserting into the hole so it will be aligned correctly when tightened up. I had forgotten bout doing that.

    Here's a look at an h-nut that has been modified:

    h-nut3.jpg
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • bugsntbugsnt Posts: 64
    edited March 2014
    Thanks guys... I'm thinking of upgrading my Polks and this thread is most helpful.
  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 2,033
    edited March 2014
    Can anybody share the pluses and minuses of using any kind of glue with the hurricane nuts? It seems like it would give a nice, solid hold, but is it necessary?
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,016
    edited March 2014
    The big risk, is accidentally getting the glue on the internal threads. If they're done properly, there's no need for any glue. If the hole becomes enlarged for some reason, take a Q-Tip, wet it, and swab the hole, then let it dry overnight. The particle board or MDF will swell, and the hurricane nut will go back in tight.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    Westmass says that he uses a 1" or 1 1/4" screw with a washer to seat the h-nuts. Is this what I should also use to reinstall the speakers? Or is a shorter piece in order?
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,016
    edited March 2014
    1" is fine for the drivers
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    Muchas gracias.
  • verbverb Posts: 2,554
    Properly means using the exact drill size listed for the H-Nut you're using. The #8-32 requires a 13/64" bit. I use three drill bits to enlarge the hole slowly. Start with a 1/8", and it will follow the original screw hole. Use low speed. Then switch to an 11/64", then finally the 13/64'. If you try to drill out the 13/64" you risk splitting the particle board, or blowing out a chunk on the back side. I use a 8-32 X 1" or 1 1/4" Phillips machine screw with a 1/2" diameter washer under it. Hold the H-Nut under the hole, hand thread the machine screw to start, then use a variable speed drill to SLOWLY thread the screw, and draw the H-Nut up into the hole. As soon as it bottoms out, your done. Don't over tighten, the sound of the drill will tell you when the H-Nut is set. The washer keeps the screw head from sinking into the particle board.

    i know this an older post, but shout out to @westmassguy for details on how to properly install hurricane nuts. About to embark on this journey !!!
    2CH: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
  • Rrusse11Rrusse11 Posts: 116
    My hurricane nuts, dynamat clone, butyl bedding compound, et al, (banana plugs etc), arrived yesterday from Parts-Express. 100 #8-32 x 3/4" SS, 50 #8-32 x 1", SS PH screws should come through the mail slot today. With a pair of 2.3s to do, I've got 96 of the Hnuts to install.
    The RTA 12s are "only" 40, I got the 1" for them, less of a rebate on those cabinets.
    Clipping the Hnut flange makes for a neater install, though I'm not convinced it's necessary provided it's not fouling the speaker baskets. I'll dig out the tin snips
    and if they cut ez may well try the trim. I'm also thinking a dab of yellow glue (titebond) on the Hnut will help to firm up the particle board and prevent stripping the nut for the long term.

    Also a sheet of the 1 1/4" sonic foam, any recommendations on where to install on the 2.3s? I'm thinking behind the drivers, but not the pair of subwoofer drivers?
    And not behind the PR in the bottom of the cabinet.

    Cheers,
    R*2
    SDA SRS 2.3s
    Pair of Carver TFM 35s
    Carver C-1 Preamp
    CAL Icon MkII CD
    RTA 12s, need major work
  • verbverb Posts: 2,554
    My snips. Cut very well. Larger size handles increased the leverage when cutting.
    yn7655ffl4el.png
    2CH: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 39,599
    What is the butyl bedding compound for and exactly what is it?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Rrusse11Rrusse11 Posts: 116
    F1nut wrote: »
    What is the butyl bedding compound for and exactly what is it?

    F1,

    It's a permanently flexible bedding compound, butyl rubber. Not a glue, but a sealant that can be used as an air or water gasket, and can be dis-assembled. Good
    stuff on metal roofing, plumbing, boats, on low stress joints. Somewhere on these boards there's a bit by Mathew Polk that they used mortite? , a window and door sealant. Roll it into a thin round bead and apply to the rebate in the speaker cabinet. Tighten carefully and evenly and it should form into a thin bedding gasket. When I've got my Hnuts installed, I'll be setting all my speakers in it. Performs the same function as the foam gaskets on the inside lip of the drivers.

    Easily worked by hand, it never hardens, great stuff in the right application, and cheap.

    Cheers,
    R*2

    SDA SRS 2.3s
    Pair of Carver TFM 35s
    Carver C-1 Preamp
    CAL Icon MkII CD
    RTA 12s, need major work
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 9,803
    STOP !!!! There is a reason mortite is no longer advocated. At some point you will want to take a driver out. Not only will that be very hard with mortite but it very well may take chunks of the cabinet with it.
    Armacell pipe tape works very well and will allow you to remove the driver if need be EASY.

    If that stuff you're using is anything like mortite do not use it
  • verbverb Posts: 2,554
    Agree with @pitdogg2 ! There seems a time in CP when Mortite was all the rage but do to the serviceability issues (horror) mentioned above is not the favored sealant anymore.

    Armacell is now preferred!
    2CH: Polk SDA 1C's, Micro Seiki MB14 TT, Rotel 1580 Pre, Marantz CD6006 CDP, Carver TX8 Tuner, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, AQ Diamondback (version 1) RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Cables
    Office: PC, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, Polk PSWi225 wireless sub, MIT AVt2 cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 994
    Rrusse11 wrote: »
    I'll dig out the tin snips
    and if they cut ez may well try the trim. I'm also thinking a dab of yellow glue (titebond) on the Hnut will help to firm up the particle board and prevent stripping the nut for the long term.

    If you have a bench vice you can remove part of the h-nut without using tin snips. Put the part of the h-nut to be removed (marked in red in the photo) in the jaws of the vice. Then run a long screw in the h-nut to use as a lever. Work the body of the h-nut up and down using the screw as a handle until the edge breaks off. Dress up the edge with a file and you're done.

    Using glue to hold the h-nut to the particle board might be a mistake. If you cross thread one of the screws and mess up the h-nut threads you might need to replace the h-nut. It's not too hard to do that. Ask me how I know. :)

    7c23cpj3r3w4.jpg
    ycp4g47eta1z.jpg



    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
«1
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!