Question: why Hurricane nuts instead of Tee Nuts

SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
edited March 2014 in Vintage Speakers
Are the hurricane nuts stouter that tee nuts? I would think that tee nuts would alleviate concerns about the nuts backing out while assembling the speakers. What am I missing?
Post edited by SciFiTom on

Comments

  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    edited March 2014
    If installed properly, hurricane nuts are much more secure than t-nuts
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 984
    edited March 2014
    SciFiTom wrote: »
    Are the hurricane nuts stouter that tee nuts? I would think that tee nuts would alleviate concerns about the nuts backing out while assembling the speakers. What am I missing?
    The key to installing the h-nuts is too get the hole properly sized so the body of the h-nut fits tight enough that you have to pull the h-nut into the hole with a screw. Do not try to drive them into the holes with a hammer. I have the h-nuts in my speakers and they work great.

    The tapered barbs on the t-nuts will not stay embedded in particle board type materials. Maybe the first time you use them but after repeated use they will come loose.

    51u0IxJK2FL._AA160_.jpg 41w8gr6S%2BcL._AA160_.jpg
    hurricane nut
    tee nut
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
    edited March 2014
    TennMan, the pictures you provided explain the matter perfectly. I thought I saw just a bulge at the tip on an image I saw elsewhere, not the crimps shown in your pictures. The back plate also looks thicker than the tee nuts.

    Thank you, Gentlemen
  • SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
    edited March 2014
    Oops, Westmassguy said "if installed properly." Would that mean by pressing them with a screw, and getting the hole diameter correct, or does one need to find a method to turn the H-nuts in following the crimps?
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    edited March 2014
    Properly means using the exact drill size listed for the H-Nut you're using. The #8-32 requires a 13/64" bit. I use three drill bits to enlarge the hole slowly. Start with a 1/8", and it will follow the original screw hole. Use low speed. Then switch to an 11/64", then finally the 13/64'. If you try to drill out the 13/64" you risk splitting the particle board, or blowing out a chunk on the back side. I use a 8-32 X 1" or 1 1/4" Phillips machine screw with a 1/2" diameter washer under it. Hold the H-Nut under the hole, hand thread the machine screw to start, then use a variable speed drill to SLOWLY thread the screw, and draw the H-Nut up into the hole. As soon as it bottoms out, your done. Don't over tighten, the sound of the drill will tell you when the H-Nut is set. The washer keeps the screw head from sinking into the particle board.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,514
    edited March 2014
    Adding to the fray, T-nuts will destroy the thin particle board or MDF on the basket mounting flanges.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    edited March 2014
    Like this:
    952279522895229
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 984
    edited March 2014
    If you want to go to the extra trouble you can do a neater job with the h-nuts if you remove the part of the h-nut marked with an X in the photo below. That way the h-nut won't protrude into the holes for the drivers.

    The way I did it was to clamp the part with the red X in a vice, thread a long screw (to use as a lever) into the h-nut and rock it back and forth a few times until that portion of the flange snaps off. File down the rough edges and you are ready to install.

    h-nut2.jpg
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
    edited March 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Adding to the fray, T-nuts will destroy the thin particle board or MDF on the basket mounting flanges.
    Agreed, and understood. Thank you for the comment. I see the Truth of it.

    TennMan:
    "If you want to go to the extra trouble you can do a neater job with the h-nuts if you remove the part of the h-nut marked with an X in the photo below. That way the h-nut won't protrude into the holes for the drivers."

    I was wondering about that. I'd think this would be mandatory for people who've added damping material to the baskets.

    Westmassguy:

    again you've taken the trouble to thoroughly spell out your thoughts. Most gracious, and thanks for clarifying a number of points along the way. I thought of the washer all by myself, though. ;)

    Appreciatively,
    Tom
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,514
    edited March 2014
    Go point Tennman, it does make for a cleaner install.

    When I installed Hurricane nuts on my RTiA's I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the portion you marked with an X.

    To anyone doing this, when you go to install the altered Hurricane nut, line up the nut with the cut off area flush with the flange, then rotate it counter clockwise about 1/4" before you draw it in with the screw as the nut will rotate clockwise. This will ensure the cut off area will be flush with the flange when it's seated.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • SciFiTomSciFiTom Posts: 58
    edited March 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Go point Tennman, it does make for a cleaner install.

    When I installed Hurricane nuts on my RTiA's I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the portion you marked with an X.

    To anyone doing this, when you go to install the altered Hurricane nut, line up the nut with the cut off area flush with the flange, then rotate it counter clockwise about 1/4" before you draw it in with the screw as the nut will rotate clockwise. This will ensure the cut off area will be flush with the flange when it's seated.

    I was wondering about this point. Thank you for citing specific values. I presume the directions are as viewed from outside the cabinet.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 38,514
    edited March 2014
    Yes.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    Well, well, well .... would you lookie here? My hurricane nut questions have been asked and answered .... in detail!

    This place is a wonder of wonders.

    Westmass .... you da man! And thank you TennMan for the pics.
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    And thanks F1 for the additional tip on installation.
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    edited March 2014
    I've cut a flat on them with tin snips too
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 984
    edited March 2014
    Good tip from F1 about rotating the h-nut a few degrees before inserting into the hole so it will be aligned correctly when tightened up. I had forgotten bout doing that.

    Here's a look at an h-nut that has been modified:

    h-nut3.jpg
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • bugsntbugsnt Posts: 64
    edited March 2014
    Thanks guys... I'm thinking of upgrading my Polks and this thread is most helpful.
  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 1,940
    edited March 2014
    Can anybody share the pluses and minuses of using any kind of glue with the hurricane nuts? It seems like it would give a nice, solid hold, but is it necessary?
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    edited March 2014
    The big risk, is accidentally getting the glue on the internal threads. If they're done properly, there's no need for any glue. If the hole becomes enlarged for some reason, take a Q-Tip, wet it, and swab the hole, then let it dry overnight. The particle board or MDF will swell, and the hurricane nut will go back in tight.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    Westmass says that he uses a 1" or 1 1/4" screw with a washer to seat the h-nuts. Is this what I should also use to reinstall the speakers? Or is a shorter piece in order?
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    edited March 2014
    1" is fine for the drivers
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • rekterxrekterx Posts: 17
    edited March 2014
    Muchas gracias.
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Properly means using the exact drill size listed for the H-Nut you're using. The #8-32 requires a 13/64" bit. I use three drill bits to enlarge the hole slowly. Start with a 1/8", and it will follow the original screw hole. Use low speed. Then switch to an 11/64", then finally the 13/64'. If you try to drill out the 13/64" you risk splitting the particle board, or blowing out a chunk on the back side. I use a 8-32 X 1" or 1 1/4" Phillips machine screw with a 1/2" diameter washer under it. Hold the H-Nut under the hole, hand thread the machine screw to start, then use a variable speed drill to SLOWLY thread the screw, and draw the H-Nut up into the hole. As soon as it bottoms out, your done. Don't over tighten, the sound of the drill will tell you when the H-Nut is set. The washer keeps the screw head from sinking into the particle board.

    i know this an older post, but shout out to @westmassguy for details on how to properly install hurricane nuts. About to embark on this journey !!!
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