Another 1C upgrade path

Hello everyone. Since I joined this forum I spent quite some time in and around the threads, and learned a lot. Having a lot of fun!!!

I currently own a pair of 2B's but recently purchased a set of older, or transitional 1C's as they have the blade/blade IC. Below is a picture of the original 1C listing:

at46qc9aijkp.png

Curiously, I believe there was some discussion earlier about this exact set as another potential buyer was asking about the IC being blade/blade vs. pin/blade.

Thanks @f1nut for answering the question about this particular model. This was also confirmed on the VR3 website that has very good historical information .

Purchase price was 3 hundie w/o IC cable (fair?). I purchased an aftermarket one online for 50 bucks. Yes yes I know, I will eventually go to a dreadnaught but first things first.

I hooked em up and everything was working as expected. They appear to be bone stock.

The side panels and endcaps are shot. Pretty ugly. Typical fabric separation in the side panels. The end caps are missing chunks of veneer missing. Good news is that the front panels are in excellent shape.

So I decided to refurbish the side panels and end caps. I do woodwork as a hobby so not a big deal for me. Found many posts showing others who have done the same and was quite impressed.

Then I started to dive further into this forum ...

Thus far I have:

New RD0194 tweeters arrived last week
New XO's with @gimpod boards and SonicCaps, already ordered from DHS
Powergrab the insides
Dynamat the MW's and PR

Looking for a spare set of Larry's rings - Anyone have a set

And the journey begins.

Certainly please provide any comments/suggestions as they are most welcome
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Comments

  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    Glad to be of service. I'm sure plenty will chime in.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • MalbecMalbec Posts: 435
    These are two board crossovers?
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Well @malbec I must say I have already learned something new. Thanks. Yes they are the 2 board type. And thanks for pushing me to open up the hood. Removed the PR and speaker terminal bezel. Pic's below.

    Attached to speaker terminal bezel:
    ktyv5b3ay88e.jpg

    Attached directly above:
    ggpdyju3x63e.jpg

    @westmassguy david I hope this doesn't throw a wrinkle into my order !!!
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    verb wrote: »
    Well @malbec I must say I have already learned something new. Thanks. Yes they are the 2 board type. And thanks for pushing me to open up the hood. Removed the PR and speaker terminal bezel. Pic's below.

    @westmassguy david I hope this doesn't throw a wrinkle into my order !!!

    Looks like you have one of the oddball transitional models. They're a PITA. I've done them before:
    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/169750/sda-1c-transitional-model-upgrade#latest
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Whoa those look beautiful. Let's go the same way for mine.

    With that said, Should I go for the same binding post cup mods with Speakon connectors and new IC? I hadn't planned on it yet, was gonna run with the old blade/blade IC, future upgrade, but let me know your thoughts.

    In the rabbit hole for sure. Fun!!
  • MalbecMalbec Posts: 435
    You won't be able to use the b/b IC with the upgraded boards.

    Dave is your pilot!
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 5,836
    verb wrote: »
    Whoa those look beautiful. Let's go the same way for mine.

    With that said, Should I go for the same binding post cup mods with Speakon connectors and new IC? I hadn't planned on it yet, was gonna run with the old blade/blade IC, future upgrade, but let me know your thoughts.

    In the rabbit hole for sure. Fun!!
    You will have to send me everything, and yes, we have to do something with the binding posts, and cups, as half the crossover is mounted to the back of them. All those components are coming off and being re-used.

    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Now Carrying Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • SlapahoSlapaho Posts: 222
    Isn't there a current post to get on Larry's order list?
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,307
    edited December 2017
    .
  • SmalliesSmallies Posts: 240
    Those are very difficult, you don't even have to remove the passive.
    listen to Alex Jones.
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Back from vacation in Vegas !!! - Now that I'm home I will be packing up the XO's and everything else for shipment to @westmassguy !!!
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    edited December 2017
    Disassembled everything today. Nothing like Disturbed "Immortalized" cranking through my 2B's while working on this project !!!

    Labeled all speaker connectors during removal. The blade/blade IC will be discarded as @westmassguy is building a new one !!!

    3zsk7cxvndb3.jpg

    oym8nwn44vyh.jpg

    Everything will be packed up carefully and sent out this week.

    In the meantime, I'm working on new side panels and endcaps, plus doing all the recommended cabinet sealing, dynamat, etc.
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Finally shipped XO's and everything else to @westmassguy today. Been under the weather this week thus any progress has come to a grinding halt. Hope to resume next week.
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Back from the brink !!! Ready to resume disassembly of the cabinet while the electronics are en route to @westmassguy

    Ready to remove Top and End Caps. Thanks @F1nut for recommending a thin (1/16" edge prybar). Made removal fairly easy.

    BTW don't laugh at my poor placement of the 2B's in background. I'm fixing that !!!

    5qi6tn777ze3.jpeg
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    End Caps removed. Nice detail of prybar used as recommended by @F1Nut. Per his advice, I started at the rear, with gentle pressure (no mallet required) wedging the prybar into the gap between the Endcap and Speaker Box. Lift up slightly to get things started. Then move to another position along the rear, repeat process, etc.

    You should be able to get at least 1/4" separation at the rear. You can then move to the sides.

    Eventually the End Cap will "pop" indicating that most of the glue has separated, then continue to use the prybar to lift the Endcap off the staples. Nice and easy, worked great !!!

    One thing to note is I never used the prybar along the front edge. Keeping the show surface perfect !!!

    Shiny smudge on top picture was an attempt to soften up the adhesive for easier removal. Tried baby oil and goof off with a penetration time of 30 minutes. Both failed. Decided to mechanically remove the glue.

    More details on that to follow.

    Note the grille cloth remnants of the side panels after removal.

    liq6q5wg83zg.jpg
    kabqap18rzsh.jpg
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Nasty surprise on one of the bottom endcaps. Looks like this one was either repaired at the factory or by a previous owner. What a mess. Lots of glue to scrape off !!!

    v6ffpoev45c9.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 718
    Will a heat gun help it peel off?
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    xschop wrote: »
    Will a heat gun help it peel off?

    Thanks @xschop yep I tried that too. @F1nut also suggested this, but it did not work well as the temperature and duration of heat required to soften up the glue affected the vinyl laminate. I was attempting to preserve the laminate thinking that would look cool (like the studio versions) but abandoned that idea. I'm back to replacing the cloth side panels with real wood ones as many others have done.
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    To remove the glue, i used a very sharp (new) 1.5" wood chisel. Keeping the chisel angle as close as possible to the speaker surface, with forward hand pressure proved very effective. Once the end of the glue bead was separated, the glue bead popped off easily with continued forward pressure of the chisel.

    v64faqz2yhwl.jpg

    Then continued use of the chisel to clean up remaining remnants of the glue was easy.
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Bottom of speaker after glue removal with the chisel. The huge chunks of mdf missing were already there, as this was most likely the reason of the repair/rework that was done previously (shown in picture above). I plan to use @Toolfan66 method to fill those large gaps with bondo and sand smooth.

    n7w0b4amp6py.jpg

    All glue removed and completely disassembled. Ready for re-build !!!

    24soqvygob9n.jpg

  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Say goodbye to the old side panels and endcaps, get ready for the new !!!

    vnp6ojfwlx19.jpg
  • xschopxschop Posts: 718
    I've used dry ice to remove some of the nastiest automotive glues without harming the primer. Smack with hammer and it shatters right off. Not so sure about the vinyl's survival rate however.
    It's great to see you guys rebuilding these classics as Polk likely won't be bringing back the platform anytime soon.
  • vmaxervmaxer Posts: 4,044
    A lot if work, but enjoyable.
    Pio Elete Pro 520
    Panamax 5400-EX
    Sunfire TGP 5
    Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
    PS Audio GCPH phono pre
    Sunfire CG 200 X 5
    Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
    OPPO BDP-83 SE
    SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
    Ctr CS1000p
    Sur - FX1000 x 4
    SUB - SVS PB2-Plus

    Workkout room:
    Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
    Onkyo TX-DS898
    GFA 555
    Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
    Ft - SDA 1C

    Not being used:
    RTi 38's -4
    RT55i's - 2
    RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
    LSI 15's
    CSi40
    PSW 404
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 8,307
    vmaxer wrote: »
    A lot if work, but enjoyable.

    Agree
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 33
    Nice work! I need to do this eventually with my 1C's. I did all my internal upgrades first so I could continue to listen to them while updating the stuff needing repair externally. Let us know how you do the sides in wood as I'm thinking about doing that too.
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Hurricane nuts arrived from Parts Express today. Next step in the project.
    Still lamenting about the availability of Larry's Rings. Oh well :neutral: carry on ...
    gwmdntf8b3qe.jpg
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Hurricane nut rotation during installation.
    There have been some comments about this, but wanted to measure the amount of rotation on sample piece.
    This is important when clipping a portion off the flange end so not to protrude through the speaker opening. See below:
    5r80dsiwahkt.jpg
    I measured about 45 degrees, or about 1/4" at the edge of the flange.
    This will help to position the H-nut initially so that it ends up in the correct position after install.

  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Ok off my arse wandering in CP and starting to clip off the excessive flange on the H-nuts. My craftsman metal shear:
    85suh0rvwc9j.jpg
  • verbverb Posts: 115
    Cut the flange off like butter:
    vsazbzs0g9qu.jpg
  • Viking64Viking64 Posts: 1,074
    Hurricane nuts? Is that like freeballin' in severe weather conditions?
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