How to figure a subwoofer cab size...

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Comments

  • striderstrider Posts: 2,564
    edited October 2010
    Face wrote: »
    FYI, those drivers should be grouped closer together. Guessing by the parts count, you're using shallow slopes, which requires the drivers to be within a certain distance of each other for the best integration. For example, if the crossover frequency of the mid to woofer is 700hz, the center to center distance should be 8.5". With steep slopes(4th order+), this is less of an issue.

    Mike,

    Do you have a link to a page with more info on this or a fomula?
    Wristwatch--->Crisco
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,714
    edited October 2010
    http://www.csgnetwork.com/freqwavelengthcalc.html

    Enter frequency and click on "half wave".
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • JstasJstas Posts: 13,634
    edited October 2010
    Face wrote: »
    http://www.csgnetwork.com/freqwavelengthcalc.html

    Enter frequency and click on "half wave".

    OOOO!!!! Spiffy!
    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • striderstrider Posts: 2,564
    edited October 2010
    Face wrote: »
    http://www.csgnetwork.com/freqwavelengthcalc.html

    Enter frequency and click on "half wave".

    So at 300hz XO point the drivers should be ~ 19.6" apart?
    Wristwatch--->Crisco
  • FTGVFTGV Posts: 3,544
    edited October 2010
    Wow you folks have covered a lot of ground,so much for defering to doro's simplistic non techno babble don't "over think" it approach.:D
    Jstas wrote: »

    Lastly, if you are, again, going to reference Qtc, get it straight. F3 increases for values ABOVE OR BELOW 0.707.
    Do you mean increase as in lower or higher f3?
    And Shin is correct, higher Qtc values (in the >1 range)are more likely to result in a one note "boomy" response.
    You should stop cutting and pasting from websites and talking out your butt before you hurt your brain.
    Whoa,pull that finger off the trigger and put the safety on,nothing he posted required that response.
    strider wrote: »
    Mike,

    Do you have a link to a page with more info on this or a fomula?
    For more reading google lobing in loudspeakers.Lobing is basically interference between two drivers resulting in their sound changing depending on listening axis.As Mike alluded to keeping the driver spacing close in relation to crossover frequency (and increasing the xover slope)will reduce the severity of the lobing. Aswell the two drivers will function more like a single point source instead of two separate sources.
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,714
    edited October 2010
    strider wrote: »
    So at 300hz XO point the drivers should be ~ 19.6" apart?
    That's the maximum center to center distance for good integration with shallow slopes.
    FTGV wrote: »
    For more reading google lobing in loudspeakers.Lobing is basically interference between two drivers resulting in their sound changing depending on listening axis.As Mike alluded to keeping the driver spacing close in relation to crossover frequency (and increasing the xover slope)will reduce the severity of the lobing. Aswell the two drivers will function more like a single point source instead of two separate sources.
    Thanks for elaborating Fred.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 9,443
    edited November 2017
    Spam-o-licious!!!
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,204
    Huh?
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Parasound HCA-1205A; Arcam rDac; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Def Tech Procenter 1000; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; Sony BDP-S390, FireTV gen 2

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine Mini, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, FireTV, Arcam rDac; Bryson BPD-1
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 15,608
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Huh?

    There was a post (since removed) above russ's about "I love making things myself. I use (insert text with external link) for all my stuffs"...

    IE a spam post :smile:
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 4,204
    Gotcha!
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Parasound HCA-1205A; Arcam rDac; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10 + MartinLogan Dynamo (original) sub; Center - Def Tech Procenter 1000; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - SVS PB10-ISD; Sony BDP-S390, FireTV gen 2

    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Audiosource Amp Two, PSB Imagine Mini, Boston VR-10 center, NHT Super One CI surrounds, ACI Titan subwoofer, FireTV, Arcam rDac; Bryson BPD-1
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 9,443
    Dan's got my six..... ;)
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 15,608
    lightman1 wrote: »
    Dan's got my six pack..... ;)

    Fixed it Russ :wink:

    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • However, I probably want to build a wood frame from some dowel. I'll learn more info at different sites and I think I'll do it.
    Jstas wrote: »
    If you want to dress them up, you can get grill stanchions from Parts Express. Get a sheet of 1/2" or 1/4" MDF and cut rectangles to cover the front of the baffle for them. Then cut large rectangular holes, leaving some crosspieces for strength where they won't interfere with drivers. Get yourself some acoustically transparent speaker cloth, 3M trim adhesive and a staple gun (with staples). Cover the grill surfaces that the cloth will be stretched over with the adhesive. It keeps the cloth from slipping or getting tugged unevenly. Then, when the adhesive sets up and the cloth doesn't move, fold it over the side and staple it to the back. You can put adhesive on the sides as well if you want. Drill your holes for the grille stanchions and install them on the front of the baffle.

    You could probably build a wood frame from some dowel or rip down a 1x4 or a couple of 1x2s into 1x1 inch pieces and make a removable framework to stretch some grille cloth over. It'll help keep dust and gunk from the garage off of the backs of the exposed drivers and the crossover network.

    However, I probably want to build a wood frame from some dowel. I'll learn more info at different sites and I think I'll do it.
  • FestYboyFestYboy Posts: 2,326
    edited November 2017
    This thread reminds me of a YouTube experiment where a ported box was built to house 15s in a car's hatch using their TS specs. It was quite large! The builder then fabed adapter plates to fit 4" subs where the 15s once we're. The output and response between the w were surprisingly close... I'll see if I can find it...

    Here we go:
    The other one I could find:

    Post edited by FestYboy on
  • ken brydsonken brydson Posts: 6,938
    edited December 2017
    Reported
    HT/Main- Panny 50" G10 Plasma, Pioneer SC-1222k AVR, Panny DMP-BD60 BDP, Polk LS90 mains, CS350LS center, LS/fx side surrounds, LS50 surround backs, SVS 25-31PC+ sub, Harmony One

    Office Rig- Marantz 2252B, Denon 2910, Kenwood KD2070 TT, Polk RTA 12B's/ RTA8t
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