Corrosion Resistant Grease for Speaker Wire

I have to hang the Atrium 8s on Deckzilla this weekend....what would all y'all recommend for the exposed copper wires and binding posts to **** corrosion....I have brake grease and several Vaseline type products. Go ahead and take your shots....then tell me what would work best....cheers!
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Comments

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    edited November 2017
    Dielectric grease. The others can react to plastics.

    @nbrowser you beat me by seconds
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,478
    Why are you not using gold plated bananas?
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Ivan, I've seen too many plated connectors rust from the inside because they aren't rated for outdoor use.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    I live in central Tx, humidity is pretty high here (though not like the Deep South or Florida) and I have lived in this house for 6 years with speakers under a small awning with bare wire running in. The only problem I have had is with the damn birds that want to build a nest on my speaker...wires haven’t been a problem.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Goose grease
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,478
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ivan, I've seen too many plated connectors rust from the inside because they aren't rated for outdoor use.

    Interesting. I know a set that has been in use for 6 yrs. in the elements that has not happened. Maybe because we used shrink tubing around the body and down the wire about 6 inches.
  • Viking64
    Viking64 Posts: 6,646
    Ilsco De-Ox and black spray paint.
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    Replace binging posts with "gold" ones and same with wire conections problem solved. Unless you live right on salt water no further steps needed.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ivan, I've seen too many plated connectors rust from the inside because they aren't rated for outdoor use.

    It's got nothing to do with being rated for outdoor use. It's got to do with being cheap a$$ connectors using the wrong base metal. Any half decent connector uses copper, brass or phosphorus bronze as the base metal, which do not rust.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,484
    Viking64 wrote: »
    .......black spray paint.

    Please, do not bring up this substance. This is a banned topic on the Polk forum, as far as I know...... :)
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,484
    edited November 2017
    nbrowser wrote: »

    I don't think the Permatex is "outer space approved" though. I would definately pay the $710.00 for the extra assurance and reliability. So, the space grease cost more than the speakers?! So what!! We don't want those cheap a$$ connectors rusting, after all. Besides, why spend money on better connectors, when you can brag to your friends that you have space lube on your connectors, that is protecting them for several times the price.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    kevhed72 wrote: »

    Jeez at that price it better do wonders on my junk too :o
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,484
    Come Jesse, just 'cause you haven't had the pleasure.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    F1nut wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    Ivan, I've seen too many plated connectors rust from the inside because they aren't rated for outdoor use.

    It's got nothing to do with being rated for outdoor use. It's got to do with being cheap a$$ connectors using the wrong base metal.

    That too!
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    I always coat all the connections on my outdoor speakers with DeoxIt gold. No corrosion issues for me.
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,163
    I would tin the leads on the copper wire (aka tiny bit of solder). Helps from excessive fraying too.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 4,950
    I hit HD yesterday and of course it took forever to find all the necessary supplies to ensure the Atrium 8s dont fall on anyone's head. As you can see, they dwarf the Atrium 4s:
    572t5od9tp3b.jpeg
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 10,862
    Interesting post. I took away my back yard speakers. All good except the one right next to the pool. The connectors were no longer brass. Look more like faded metal. I'll have to get some grease next spring to help protect that one and perhaps find a different location.
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    edited November 2017
    Chlorine gas from pool. Eats almost all metal eventually
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 10,862
    Chlorine gas from pool. Eats almost all metal eventually

    This was after 6 mths. We keep our pool at the lowest levels possible. It's very rare that I crank up the salt chlorinator up high. Unless after a party.
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    How" high" is a relative matter. Chlorine is chlorine virtually no levels are good for any metal. Think about what it's doing to the voice coils and any other metal baskets from your speakers excetera excetera excetera. The only thing you can really do at this point is to keep your speakers as far away from the pool surface as possible and be prepared to replace wire every season. Air flow isn't a bad idea to keep it from concentrating, a large fan in the pool area running 24/7 wouldn't hurt but it's like holding back the tide. Just accept the fact that you're going to have a higher maintenance than anyplace else in the house.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 4,950
    Interesting tie in here...when they were taking apart the old deck I noticed the old metal flashing was corroded. The house is only 14 years old....my guess is it was the bleach I used on the vinyl siding during the powerwashing process. Bleach works wonders down here in the pollen-belt, but is corrosive and Im told can jack up the soap pump in power washers overs time.
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    Yes you need to replace all rubber gromets, washers, etc in presure washers after every 2/3 uses or every 6 mo. or so. Also use only "buffered" chlorine not bleach! Also for exterior home cleaning an algaecide is also a good idea.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,478
    edited November 2017
    kevhed72 wrote: »
    Interesting tie in here...when they were taking apart the old deck I noticed the old metal flashing was corroded. The house is only 14 years old....my guess is it was the bleach I used on the vinyl siding during the powerwashing process. Bleach works wonders down here in the pollen-belt, but is corrosive and Im told can jack up the soap pump in power washers overs time.

    OH YES IT WILL

    It would eat everything in short order in my hand pump pressure sprayer I used in my old basement shower stall to combat molds and mildew. After a few months it would no longer hold pressure and the spray handle just fell apart.

    I had to get "aggressive chemical" sprayers.
    Post edited by pitdogg2 on
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 10,862
    How" high" is a relative matter. Chlorine is chlorine virtually no levels are good for any metal. Think about what it's doing to the voice coils and any other metal baskets from your speakers excetera excetera excetera. The only thing you can really do at this point is to keep your speakers as far away from the pool surface as possible and be prepared to replace wire every season. Air flow isn't a bad idea to keep it from concentrating, a large fan in the pool area running 24/7 wouldn't hurt but it's like holding back the tide. Just accept the fact that you're going to have a higher maintenance than anyplace else in the house.

    I agree, next spring I'll be moving that one speaker away from the pool. It was right next to it this summer. Next year it will be a good 10 feet away.

  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,374
    Just so you'll know chlorine won't even kill mildew it only defoliate the flower on mildew plants it'll grow back and then you'll see the black again it never kills the root system you need to use a good algaecide that will actually kill the root of the mildew plant and then it will be destroyed completely this is something I used to do professionally in the Florida area it's a big business down here the chlorine is used just at the defoliant to give the impression that you've killed it immediately but in actuality the plant will just RE foliate within a few months and the mildew stays there until you actually kill it with an algaecide or appropriate Mildowside. Just saying!
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,163
    Just so you'll know chlorine won't even kill mildew it only defoliate the flower on mildew plants it'll grow back and then you'll see the black again it never kills the root system you need to use a good algaecide that will actually kill the root of the mildew plant and then it will be destroyed completely this is something I used to do professionally in the Florida area it's a big business down here the chlorine is used just at the defoliant to give the impression that you've killed it immediately but in actuality the plant will just RE foliate within a few months and the mildew stays there until you actually kill it with an algaecide or appropriate Mildowside. Just saying!

    That's interesting. I've never heard that. I always thought dilute bleach was a miracle cure. ie: it kills everything! I'll have to look into an algaecide because we have a problem on our back deck, front basement entry, and north side of the house. It is painted stucco.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 4,950
    So here are some more pics as the project progressed. After a couple of months I will paint the treated wood in between the 2 layers of vinyl board. While it may seem overkill and not as clean as simply **** the mounts directly to the undside of the roof, the Atrium 8s come in at 10 lbs each. The binding posts and wire ends were covered with a good amount of dielectric grease. Enjoy and happy Thanksgiving
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