5B's & RD0-194's?

I picked up this pair of 5B's tonight for $25. From what I understand the RD0-194's should drop in with maybe a little modification to the mounting holes, correct? Cute little cabinets, sound better than decent, but they are a little bright! Should I do it?
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Current Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), SDA CRS+ (194’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL, R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩
Pairs that have passed through: Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 5b (SL2000) (3x pair), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10b (5x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, RTA 11T, RTA12c (194's), SDA CRS, SDA 2 (2x pair), SDA 2a, SDA 2b, SDA 1b, SDA 1c, SDA SRS 2 (2x pair), SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s) (2x pair)...and more to come, it’s a sickness.

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,710
    I think the Peerless copies that Mid-West sells would be a better choice, should drop in and match the crossover better than the RD0194.
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  • JayMX
    JayMX Posts: 434
    Thanks @F1nut I think I'm gonna listen to them for a while this way and then we'll see...
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    74o879wj5ilc.jpeg
    Current Collection: Monitor 4a (Peerless), Monitor 5B (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7b (Peerless), RTA15TL (SL3000), SDA CRS+ (194’s), SDA SRS 2.3TL, R100's, R200’s, R300 🤩
    Pairs that have passed through: Monitor 4b (Peerless), Monitor 5a (Peerless), Monitor 5b (SL1000), Monitor 5b (SL2000) (3x pair), Monitor 7b (Peerless), Modified Monitor 7c’s (194’s), Monitor 10a (Peerless), Monitor 10b (5x pair), RTA8, RTA8TL, RTA 11T, RTA12c (194's), SDA CRS, SDA 2 (2x pair), SDA 2a, SDA 2b, SDA 1b, SDA 1c, SDA SRS 2 (2x pair), SDA SRS 3.1TL (198’s) (2x pair)...and more to come, it’s a sickness.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,710
    Up to you, but you might want to spare your ears from those SL1000's as quickly as possible.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,710
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Jesse, are the SL1000s as bright sonically as they "appear"? :)

    Pretty much.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    The RD-0194-1 is the correct replacement for the SL1000 and SL2000. You will have to modify the recess, mounting holes, and connector "ears" in the opening to accommodate it. It's supposed to be a drop in replacement for the SL2000, but there can be problems with that as well.
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  • pkquat
    pkquat Posts: 742
    F1nut wrote: »
    I think the Peerless copies that Mid-West sells would be a better choice, should drop in and match the crossover better than the RD0194.
    F1nut wrote: »
    Up to you, but you might want to spare your ears from those SL1000's as quickly as possible.

    2nd @F1nut, but I think you will need to rebuild the crossovers like peerless M5's. It depends what model MW's were used in these. IMO even if you used electrolytic caps, the replacement Mid-West Audio tweeters would sound better.

    I have to admit the only SL1000's I heard in some 5jr's were crisp, clean, and sounded pretty detailed, but this was before I really thought about listening fatigue. When I got back home, IMO I liked the overall sound of my M4's with the triforce tweeter better. The SL1000's were bright, but not necessarily louder. I like the sound of peerless even better than the triforce tweeter. I can listen to either of these for hours.

    One last thing. Check the outside diameter of the PR surrounds for cracks.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,636
    The SL1000s will never sound better, even with new caps. The Mylar film domes have long exceeded their shelf life, especially if they resided under prolonged UV lights.
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