Monitor 5b issue- known good tweeter is silent. Might be crossover?
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You can't,but you said you had continuity without the fuse and that make no sense to me.Maybe someone else can chime in with some suggestions.2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
Hopefully someone else will be able to suggest something. Do you happen to know where I can find circuit diagrams for these 5bs?I haven't been able to find one, but it might be helpful for detecting the short
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2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
Thank you. How bizarre, it really doesn't look like there are many spots for a short to occur like what I'm observing. Maybe the next stop is to look into how I can bypass the fuse block entirely...
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Just be sure not to crank the volume to high or you can fry the tweeter,that is what the fuse is for to protect it from being over driven.2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
Thank you! I've been thinking more and it's possible that this whole thing is a red herring. Generally, when the fuse is lifted, the tweeter goes dead. But I've been detecting that the fuse is somehow being detected as bypassed, or at least *some * current is getting past it somehow. Wouldn't we thusly expect the tweeter to be live despite the absent fuse? Yet, that isn't the case.
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The Monitor 5 crossover can get very tight when you start installing modern film caps. A good solution is a riser board to provide the extra space. Here's a thread documenting my Monitor 5 rehab, I hope it can assist you.
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/167490/my-newly-refurbished-monitor-5s
I just saw your original post. Nice work and all, but could you clarify something. Did you not use the original Polk big inductor and install a new one of your own?
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dkfreebird wrote: »Just be sure not to crank the volume to high or you can fry the tweeter,that is what the fuse is for to protect it from being over driven.
Would if I could! The tweeter just doesn't seem to want to turn on at all. I'm rechecking my soldering now. -
He may be testing it "in place"dkfreebird wrote: »You shouldn't get continuity without the fuse in place.
then it would possibly be measuring continuity from one of the components that are across the Positive and negative.
In the case of the tweeter, there is a coil, that is installed across from negative to positive. -
He may be testing it "in place"dkfreebird wrote: »You shouldn't get continuity without the fuse in place.
then it would possibly be measuring continuity from one of the components that are across the Positive and negative.
In the case of the tweeter, there is a coil, that is installed across from negative to positive.
The fuse is not in place when I do the test, if that's what you mean. If not, could you elaborate?
The inductor is stock, untouched by me.
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Continuity is detected when no fuse is present ( just touching the contacts), as well as the fuse is in place.[/quote]
He may be testing it "in place"dkfreebird wrote: »You shouldn't get continuity without the fuse in place.
then it would possibly be measuring continuity from one of the components that are across the Positive and negative.
In the case of the tweeter, there is a coil, that is installed across from negative to positive.
2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
dkfreebird wrote: »
Continuity is detected when no fuse is present ( just touching the contacts), as well as the fuse is in place.
[/quote]
Bingo.
I've given up for today after redoing my solder points and crimps to no avail. Hopefully someone else has run into something like this,as I'm currently stumped. -
The only other thing is to check the tweeter with your meter to make sure the tweeter isn't bad.2 Channel
Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
Musical Fidelity M6Si
North Star Intenso Dac
Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
Oppo 103
Pangea PC
Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers
Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre -
Tweeter is ok, determined via swapping it with the other speaker cabinet.
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Get rid of the fuse blocks entirely because they likely look like this.
Use denatured alcohol to soften the glue, then peel it off.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Get rid of the fuse blocks entirely because they likely look like this.
Use denatured alcohol to soften the glue, then peel it off.
Yikes. If mine looks like that, it might explain a few things. Can you explain how you bypassed the fuse mechanism? -
By the way, was there some sort of technique to getting the fuse holder to come free? The alcohol got the glue off, but the metal part still doesn't want to come loose.
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If you cut the 2 white wires going into the big glob of glue, and connect them together, solder and heat shrink over one wire before soldering, them heat shrink wrap to cover joint, you will eliminate the fuse totally.
Make sure you do not cut the 1 wire going to the other binding post, but that should be obvious.
There may be a small rivet holding fuse holder on, but if you bypass it, no real "Need" to have to actually remove it, unless you want to. -
Thanks for the guidance, K_M! I found the issue!!! We were barking up the wrong tree, I am officially a bad wire manager. The bare transducer wire, which I didn't even notice, was contacting the 12uf capacitor. That was causing the short that killed everything. The tweeter works!
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TweetTweet wrote: »Thanks for the guidance, K_M! I found the issue!!! We were barking up the wrong tree, I am officially a bad wire manager. The bare transducer wire, which I didn't even notice, was contacting the 12uf capacitor. That was causing the short that killed everything. The tweeter works!
Good to hear!!!
Wow, something that simple can cause a lot of grief! -
I still suggest you bypass the fuses.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
1 amp FAST BLOW .... throw away the slow blow these are not Cerwin Vegas
The wire beneath the fuse holder can get sticky green and that could be an issue check to rule it out. -
I just saw your original post. Nice work and all, but could you clarify something. Did you not use the original Polk big inductor and install a new one of your own?
All inductors were replaced. The original large inductor is still present because it is built into the mounting piece, but it is no longer part of the circuit.
Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance. -
I just saw your original post. Nice work and all, but could you clarify something. Did you not use the original Polk big inductor and install a new one of your own?
All inductors were replaced. The original large inductor is still present because it is built into the mounting piece, but it is no longer part of the circuit.
Are you answering an unrelated question, or describing what I did? If the latter, in my case I never touched the stock inductor. The problem I had was that the stock inductor's wire, which is uninsulated, touched the leg of one of the new capacitors that I put in, causing a short. -
TweetTweet wrote: »I just saw your original post. Nice work and all, but could you clarify something. Did you not use the original Polk big inductor and install a new one of your own?
All inductors were replaced. The original large inductor is still present because it is built into the mounting piece, but it is no longer part of the circuit.
Are you answering an unrelated question, or describing what I did? If the latter, in my case I never touched the stock inductor. The problem I had was that the stock inductor's wire, which is uninsulated, touched the leg of one of the new capacitors that I put in, causing a short.
Neil was stating what his was not yours. KM asked. -
TBH I am a little lost to the status of the situation, but I want to be sure to mention, just in case you missed it. You will have continuity checking both sides of the fuse holder. The fuse is completing the circuit, just like the continuity meter is. The continuity meter is used to check the condition of the fuse, close or open (blown).
What F1nut showed in the picture could be the problem. The wires could be corroded. They can pass a continuity test sometimes, but in reality cannot handle any real current. The corroded wire is acting like a big resistor or once it sees higher current its resistance skyrockets, so no sound is heard from the tweeter.Post edited by pkquat on -
In my case, I removed the fuse altogether and replaced it with a jumper. I'm confident enough in the quality of my amp that I'm not worried about the protection from the fuse.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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On my 7B's I completely removed everything to do with the fuse. I even replaced the binding post plates and binding posts with new ones.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
