replacement nuts for Polk 5jr+ binding posts

Hello!

I am looking for replacement nuts, (metal or plastic, preferably metal) for my wonderful Polk 5jr+ speakers.

I spent hours at my Lowe's, over two nights looking for a replacement nut that would fit, but to no avail.

I have read (THANK YOU!) about the RD-194 and RD-198 tweeter upgrade, with the 13.5 up CAP replacement for the RD-198, but they sound pretty darn good the way they are, and I own some really good speakers to compare them to!

I am going to do the gluing of the magnets on the woofer this weekend.

These speakers have been very good to me for, what, 35+ years?

I would not mind buying replacement binding posts at Parts-express, and just take the nuts off of them.

I could use banana plugs, and I already have some, but I prefer as few breaks in the wire as possible.

Thanks in advance!

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    If you're talking about binding posts the stock ones are junk, but if that is what you after look on eBay.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,471
    edited June 2017
    If you're going to buy new binding post just put them in and use them. Chances are very good that the nuts off the new will not fit the old binding post. The old were not all that good to begin with. What was considered good 35yrs ago is not even close today.
  • BuddTX
    BuddTX Posts: 11
    Thank you both!
    Here is where I need some help.

    How do you undo the crossover to get to the binding posts, does it just "un-fold" after I take out the screws?

    Does anyone sell re-built, upgraded, crossovers? Including Polk?

    I just called parts, they are closed now, will try again Monday.
  • dkfreebird
    dkfreebird Posts: 1,180
    Are you in Tx?
    2 Channel
    Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
    Musical Fidelity M6Si
    North Star Intenso Dac
    Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
    Oppo 103
    Pangea PC
    Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
    Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers

    Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre
  • BuddTX
    BuddTX Posts: 11
    Yes, Houston, Pearland actually
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,471
    You can recap them yourself if you're handy and can solder. You could also pm westmassguy his business is just that rebuilding speakers. Polk will not have anything but drivers.

    Take the binding post cup out it should be pretty much self explanatory after that. You can pull the hot melt glue off with needle nose pliers or i belive 91% alcohol will soften and loosen it up some as well. You will need to apply it back to seal it all back up
  • BuddTX
    BuddTX Posts: 11
    ok, thank you!
  • dkfreebird
    dkfreebird Posts: 1,180
    If you're not ready for upgrades what colors do you need to get you going. I have some here that can help you I think.
    2 Channel
    Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
    Musical Fidelity M6Si
    North Star Intenso Dac
    Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
    Oppo 103
    Pangea PC
    Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
    Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers

    Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre
  • BuddTX
    BuddTX Posts: 11
    Thanks DkFreeBird,

    I did contact WestMassGuy, so let me hold off on the replacement nuts, I may just upgrade the crossover.

    So, my last question, if I upgrade the tweeter, and the crossover, is there a woofer upgrade I should consider for the5jr+?

    Then I would have a completely new speaker, in an old cabinet!

    Thanks everyone!
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    No, you have the best driver already.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dkfreebird
    dkfreebird Posts: 1,180
    Great decision, Dave did all my crossover upgrades and you won't be disappointed.
    2 Channel
    Polk 1.2tl's Modded with dreadnought
    Musical Fidelity M6Si
    North Star Intenso Dac
    Auralic Aries Mini Streamer
    Oppo 103
    Pangea PC
    Wireworld Equinox 7 interconnects
    Wireworld Equinox 7 Speaker Cables and Jumpers

    Backups 2.3tl, Crs+ pin/blade with stands.Monitor 5 peerless,Monitor 4 peerless,Polk R200,McCormack Dna 0.5 Deluxe McCormack Dna 1,Dared Sl 2000A,Dayens Ampino Rogue Magnum 66 pre
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    The factory posts I just measured are 8-32 thread, of a stainless that is slightly ferrous, although I haven't seen one oxidize.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    xschop wrote: »
    The factory posts I just measured are 8-32 thread, of a stainless that is slightly ferrous, although I haven't seen one oxidize.

    They are nickel plated brass.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    The 4 sets I kept from the 5jrs I modded are stainless as I ran a large magnet across and filed a couple with no yellow shine.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Hmmmm.....I just can't imagine Polk using stainless steel anything that long ago.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,627
    How many nuts do you need?

    Pretty sure we have some Spare ones we could send ya free of charge.
    Just Pm me with your answer and address if you want some.
  • BuddTX
    BuddTX Posts: 11
    Thank you everyone, I have contacted WestMassGuy (David) and he is rebuilding my crossovers. I opted for the premium crossovers, so I am getting the Unobtainium Caps, with Kryptonite connectors, made in deep space so that gravity will not affect the build, made by virgin nymphs, at midnight Zulu time, only on the vernal equinox, and only selecting "prime" numbered capacitors. :)

    BUT NO MONSTER Cable, that stuff is pure Snake Oil!!! B)

    Seriously, as part of the re-build, he is, of course, replacing the binding posts, so there is no more need for replacement nuts.

    I also ordered the RD0198-1 tweeters, and of course, David knows about that, so the crossovers will be built for those tweeters.

    Oh, I just got the tweeters in the mail today, and one of the connector posts was broken, I will have to make a call to Polk Monday!

    Thanks to everyone's posts, and lots of reading, I have since learned:
    -Mortite is not preferred to use as a replacement gasket
    -David sent me instructions on installing hurricane nuts and bolts to replace all the MDF screwholes, that should allow me to be able to get a good tight seal (not too tight), and tighten zig zag pattern, like tightening a snare drum head or lug nuts on a tire)
    -Use Dynamat or equivalent, (Fatmat, Noico, uxcell, etc) and do not use Peel and Seal, P&S may work, but it is asphalt based, whereas the other ones are butyl based sound deadeners.
    -Glue the magnets on the MW6502. I am going to use JB Weld, I love that stuff, I fixed my Washing Machine, and it held until I bought a new one, 15+ years later!

    Any other suggestions?

    Thanks everyone!
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Now, you're on the right path.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,471
    Stepping off the edge love it :p
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    edited July 2017
    Smallies wrote: »
    Not too psyched on gluing the 6502's when you could grab 2 new 6503's. Very happy with mine.

    Those two drivers are very different and should not be subbed for each other.

    The 6502 is 3.5 ohms while the 6503 is 6.5 ohms.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    I have praised the new tweeters, but not the new drivers as I haven't had a need for any. Although, I praise Polk for still making the drivers.

    Regardless of the model that big a difference in the ohm rating will be quite noticeable.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk