Rta11tl crossover rebuild
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splatee
Posts: 23
Hello everyone,
It's been awhile since I posted on here. I just recently purchased a pair of rta11tl and had a question on a capacitor value. I am hoping on ordering everything from Madisound to keep shipping costs down.
I am planning the following
For high pass
2 x 8.2mf 250v clarity caps PX to make the 16.4 value
2 x 12mf 250v clarity caps PX
For the low pass the original is a 34mf. Now everyone seems to substitute a 33mf for this. Could I go up to a 35mf since it's within the 10% range? I can get a Solen 35mf from
Madisound in that value.
For resistors I am planning on Mundrof MR10 1.5 MOX.
Other plans are to add dampening to the speaker and pr baskets. For now I am keeping the original tweeters. They sound real good to my ears as is.
Thank you
It's been awhile since I posted on here. I just recently purchased a pair of rta11tl and had a question on a capacitor value. I am hoping on ordering everything from Madisound to keep shipping costs down.
I am planning the following
For high pass
2 x 8.2mf 250v clarity caps PX to make the 16.4 value
2 x 12mf 250v clarity caps PX
For the low pass the original is a 34mf. Now everyone seems to substitute a 33mf for this. Could I go up to a 35mf since it's within the 10% range? I can get a Solen 35mf from
Madisound in that value.
For resistors I am planning on Mundrof MR10 1.5 MOX.
Other plans are to add dampening to the speaker and pr baskets. For now I am keeping the original tweeters. They sound real good to my ears as is.
Thank you
Comments
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I have no experience with those caps but i think you should be ok with the 35uf.
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You should go with the CSA for the high pass.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You should go with the CSA for the high pass.
I could not find any of the values in CSA on parts connexion web site. Maybe the ESA line. But since I am planning on keeping these I may just spring for Sonic Caps. -
Oh and one other thing I read was it is ok to remove the "poly switch" and just replace it with a jumper would also improve the imaging a bit?
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I went with PX for the highs, Jantzen for the lows and mills resistor. I had also replaced the tweeters with RDO-198. The improvement was amazing.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
They have the 12uF CSA listed, but it looks like they are trying to dump their stock of ESA caps before they start selling the full line of CSA.
Not to worry, you can get them at Hifi Collective. http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/claritycap-csa-250vdc-capacitors.html
Of course, as you mentioned, you can always go with Sonicap.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Oh and one other thing I read was it is ok to remove the "poly switch" and just replace it with a jumper would also improve the imaging a bit?
You replace the polyswitch with a .5 ohm resistor otherwise the balance gets tilted to the high end.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks for all the info and help everyone. I am going to start start getting parts ordered.
I am going to go with Clarity Caps PX series. THe CSA series is a big jump in price.
And I take it that replace the polyswitch resistor with a mills 12w 0.5 ? -
And I take it that replace the polyswitch resistor with a mills 12w 0.5 ?
Yes 12watt .5ohm
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Thanks for all the info and help everyone. I am going to start start getting parts ordered.
I am going to go with Clarity Caps PX series. THe CSA series is a big jump in price.
And I take it that replace the polyswitch resistor with a mills 12w 0.5 ?
Save up, there's a reason for the higher price.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks for all the info and help everyone. I am going to start start getting parts ordered.
I am going to go with Clarity Caps PX series. THe CSA series is a big jump in price.
And I take it that replace the polyswitch resistor with a mills 12w 0.5 ?
Save up, there's a reason for the higher price.
Yes I am going to go with the Sonic Caps in the Highpass. This way I won't have the "what if I did" in the back of my head.
Thank you
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One last question, I promise.
I am definitely going with the Sonic Caps in the highpass section. Now for the lowpass the Sonic Caps are out of the question. I am debating between, Jantzen, Audyn, Solen, and curiouse what you guys think about the Mundorf M-cap. I am leaning towards the Mundorf. -
Go with one of the film/foil caps.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Oh and one other thing I read was it is ok to remove the "poly switch" and just replace it with a jumper would also improve the imaging a bit?
Polyswitch on a 11TL crossover?
I thought that was eliminated in the change from an 11T to and 11TL?
Do you have pictures of your crossover? -
Oh and one other thing I read was it is ok to remove the "poly switch" and just replace it with a jumper would also improve the imaging a bit?
Polyswitch on a 11TL crossover?
I thought that was eliminated in the change from an 11T to and 11TL?
Do you have pictures of your crossover?
You are correct. There actually is not a polyswitch resistor. Thank you for pointing this out.
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Thanks for confirming. I guess I should get to work on doing mine.
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Crossovers are done. I ended up going with Clarity Caps PX and ESA and Mundorf resistors. I also replaced the Caps in the center channel which is a CS2 series 2. I have not calibrated the with audyssey yet.
I am listenenig to them right now. Initial thoughts are that they sound more balanced. They have more impact. Currently listening to Black Sabbath War pigs. The drums have more of an impact, seems like it is very quick. Hard to describe.
I read that Clarity Caps take awhile to burn in, somewhere around 300 hrs? Is this true?
I also went ahead and added dynamat to the speaker and PR baskets.
Here are a few pics.
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Guess that's one way to burn them in
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Next step will be replacing the tweeters with RD0198.
