Need An Aftermarket Stereo

I recently got a set of subwoofers and an amplifier but still they are not giving me the kind of sound I need. So I'm asking, do I need an aftermarket stereo to hook these gadgets up?

Comments

  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,179
    Seems like car audio
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

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  • SamK
    SamK Posts: 13
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    SamK wrote: »
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.

    Need a bit more info.....what kind of subwoofers are they, brand, model ? What kind of amp ? Are the subs in the trunk, rear deck ? What are you using as the source for music, stock stereo, if so, what kind ? How is it wired right now ?
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    SamK wrote: »
    rpf65 wrote: »
    Need a little more info.

    What does your system consist of, everything?

    How is everything hooked up?

    Okay it's a set of two 12-inch terminator subwoofers in a vented enclosure. They are for my car.

    Well, if that is "everything", you need more than just a stereo.
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  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,288
    Are you running a crossover to all the speakers??
    Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista 300, Audioquest Thunderbird Zero Speaker Cable, Tyler Highland H2, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
  • SamK
    SamK Posts: 13
    They are MTX Audio subwoofers. 1,200 watt. @erniejade how do I choose a crossover?
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,471
    You are not giving enough info to help you. And this should be in the car stereo area of the forum where more people who live in that world will see it.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    DaveHo wrote: »
    You are not giving enough info to help you. And this should be in the car stereo area of the forum where more people who live in that world will see it.

    And you have been asked several times. If you want help you have to post more than one liners dude...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
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  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,288
    You would need a crossover to put the mids and highs to the door speakers amp and the lows to the sub amp. Usually people cross over at 80-100 hz depending on the rest of your rig and as others have pointed out, you need a lot more information in this thread to help you.
    Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista 300, Audioquest Thunderbird Zero Speaker Cable, Tyler Highland H2, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
  • recoveryone
    recoveryone Posts: 885
    edited January 2017
    from what I have kleen from your posting you are using a factory installed head unit? in some of todays vehicle some are quite good, but may still lack the ability to act as your crossover point for the output of the sound. So aftermarket may be the best starting point. All brands have head units that can help with your problem, most in the mid to highend range. My past experience there are two common ways to setup your system.

    1. Most modern HU (head units) you have your standard wiring harness and RCA outputs jacks. You can run the front/door speakers off the harness , then us the RCA jacks for your sub connection. By doing this you are still only using the built in amp power of the HU, so don't expect much humph as you are sharing power with all speakers.
    2. Run the front speakers off the HU, then add a seprate mono amp for the subs. this gives you more power for the sub's and you will be able to control/detail the bass to your liking.
    3. In one my old cars I ran 3 amps one 4 channel for the all the doors, used the bypass output of that amp to 2 mono amps for the 10" subs I had in a box in the trunk.

    Most of all learn to do your math, todays auto audio market use off the chart claims about power output/handling. A simple way to look at speakers and amps is this take the max output and divide that amount by 2 until you reach 8ohms. So a 1000 watt sub at 2ohms is only 500 watt 4ohm and 250 at 8ohms this will keep things more in real world results.
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  • stangman67
    stangman67 Posts: 2,179
    I am just confused as I am sure everyone else is. From your original post, it seems yopu have them hooked up in some fashion? How are they hooked up and I can help from there and what are they not doing that you want them to? In my former life I was a car audio nut, so I can help if you just provide a little more detail
    2 Channel in my home attic/bar/man cave

    2 Channel Focal Kanta 3 I Modwright SWL9.0 Anniversary Pre I Modwright PH9.0X I Modwright KWA-150SE I VPI Prime Signature w/ Soundsmith Zephyr MIMC I Lumin U2 Mini I North Star Designs Intenso DAC I Audience OHNO ICs/Audience Furutech FP-S55N and FP-S032N Power Cables/Acoustic Zen Satori I Isotek Sirius
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    Hmm car audio, have not been down that hole for about 16 years

    If you're going to do it do it right

    1 good head unit
    2 good amps don't know whats good there any more, you will need 2. 1 4 chanel for the speakers and 1 2 chanel for the subs
    3 good wiring
    4 good speakers
    5 good subs Polk JL audio Cerwin Vega (if they are still around) Kicker

    you can spend thousands on this and all it takes is some dirt bag a minute to steel it all.

    I had a 1999 Nissan extended cab truck with punch 800 on 2 JL 10W3 Polk separates in the doors and 6X9 in boxes above the sub box with a Sony ES amp ES head with 6 disc changer.

    I sold the truck a month later the guy who bought it from me told me the stereo got ripped off in his driveway. $2.500 stereo gone
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
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  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited January 2017
    SamK, your questions are much to vague to help you. Did you like the OEM sound before the subwoofers? If not, then the subs will only add bass to crappy sound. In the end, you may be after an aftermarket deck, speakers, and amplifier. Go to a car audio shop and asks a lot of questions and listen. Then come back with detailed questions and a second opinion.
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  • Gentlemen,
    Let's try and be as helpful as we can and refrain from extraneous comments that only confuse.
    Thanks, Ken
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    10-4

    But we are the confused
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  • Hello "SamK",
    In order to answer your question: "how do I choose a crossover?" we would need to know what is the low frequency capability of your front and rear deck speakers? Also, what is the brand and model number of the amplifier you are using?
    Regards, Ken
  • SamK
    SamK Posts: 13
    I think wiring is fine. The problem is that when I put the bass to maximum on the amp, the speakers start producing some buzzing sound.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 18,230
    Is this like a buzz or "whine" sound that goes up and down with the reving of the engine or more like a buzz sound that is only apparent when a low passage or drum kick hits?

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • WLDock
    WLDock Posts: 3,073
    edited January 2017
    SamK wrote: »
    I think wiring is fine. The problem is that when I put the bass to maximum on the amp, the speakers start producing some buzzing sound.

    SamK, again your response is too vague.

    1) What do you mean by "I put the bass to maximum on the amp?" Are you referring to the gain adjustment knob on the amp? If so, that is a component level match adjustment. Too much gain will cause distortion. Follow the level match procedures in the amplifier instructions or there are tutorials on the web and tons of YouTube videos on amplifier gain setting.

    2) What speakers distort? The subs or the door/ dash speakers or both the subs and the door speakers?

    3) What sub amp are you using?

    4) So, the rest of the stereo is OEM?
    Post edited by WLDock on
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  • SamK
    SamK Posts: 13
    No worries I got a technician to fix it. The sound is now top-notch. Thank you all!