Technics SL-1401

2

Comments

  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,922
    That strobe configuration isn't uncommon, especially in older turntables ("older" as in early/mid 1970s, not "older" as in 1950s!).

    I quite like the old(er) Technics tts; built like freaking tanks they were. In my 1970s hifi snob days, I seriously looked down on them -- direct drive, heavy chrome plated S-shaped arms, ugh... but I had drunk the Euro-style tt Kool-Aide... nothin' wrong with the lithe, limber Philips, Thorens, Linns, etc... but there was also nothin' wrong with the (nearly) broadcast tt style Technics (and their ilk) with SME "inspired" arms, either. Nothin' at all.

    Re: mats. Get (or make) a new one. Don't bother with the original. Just my opinion, of course (tho' hardly humble).

    ;)
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    I do prefer the side visual of the strobe myself, looks neat in the dark while running.

    I had no idea one could make a mat themselves.
    On that, what about the weight of a self made mat?
    Would that be an issue as the original had to be to some certain specifications?

    New territory for me that's for sure..
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,922
    Thickness is the most important thing, I'd opine.

    Making a mat -- you need to cut a pretty perfect circle, and put a hole in the (exact) center of it that'll clear the spindle. Not rocket science (although some craftsy-type skill is required).

    Plenty of good aftermarket mats (still) available... if not necessarily cheap.
    I won't advise as to a good replacement, because there are multiple schools of thought as to what a good mat should be. I use a cork mat on my SL-Q2; I forget what kind it is.

    There was a fad for mats made of a certain type of "open weave" (molded, actually) material made to be used as shelf liner for kitchen cabinets... the fad was based on some commercial mat that was made of a similar if not (virtually) identical material... the problem with the shelf liner material is that it contains a plasticizer that will leave some visible weirdness on the surface of a vinyl record left in contact with it for a moderately long time... the effect's not necessarily correlated with anything audible, but it looks like a bad thing (sort of like the way that slimy plastic artificial worms used as fishing lures will "eat" certain kinds of plastics) and probably isn't the best possible thing for a good/valuable record. All of which is a long-winded way of saying, "yeah you can try this, but maybe you don't really want to..." ;)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,350
    edited August 2016
    For dust covers I used an automotive plastic fine scratch remover. Meguiars IIRC. Basically a fine rubbing compound. Once again, hard by hand easy with machine. You can get carried away with machine buffing though if not experienced with it.

    To restore rubber mats, you can use automotive products for restoring plastic too. Not tire dressing gel though, messy...lol On the car plastics I use Meguiar's Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer.

    I had restored an old Yamaha YP-D10 cover with plastic scratch remover. Aside from cleaning scratches, someone had painted a room and didn't cover it.

    d10_2.jpg
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,922
    beautiful tt; beautiful restoration.
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    @SCompRacer
    show off ;)
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,922
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    @SCompRacer
    show off ;)

    Plenty of room for that here ;)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,350
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    @SCompRacer
    show off ;)

    :blush:
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Thanks for the info folks!! I'm sure I will have more questions over the next few days.

    Don't know what it is about this piece....Sure as heck not a high end thing by any means but something about the thought of her sitting on that shelf, collecting dust.

    Need to go back to the butterfly collecting thing.... :D
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Nice SC...

    What a re-do...
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    SCompRacer wrote: »
    For dust covers I used an automotive plastic fine scratch remover. Meguiars IIRC. Basically a fine rubbing compound. Once again, hard by hand easy with machine. You can get carried away with machine buffing though if not experienced with it.

    To restore rubber mats, you can use automotive products for restoring plastic too. Not tire dressing gel though, messy...lol On the car plastics I use Meguiar's Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer.

    I had restored an old Yamaha YP-D10 cover with plastic scratch remover. Aside from cleaning scratches, someone had painted a room and didn't cover it.

    d10_2.jpg

    That's real Purdy Mr. Rich. Your projects are very impressive. The level of detail, effort, pride, & quality are evident in the final products.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    187glumegoqb.jpg

    Under the platter 1st cleaning.
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Sure do like the lid design on that Polk TT.
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    3ifj1zz1n2fa.jpg

    Headin in deeper, gonna be a long night in here...
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,438
    Jeez the more & more you clean this unit & service it-the more & more i like it :) . Looking good sir
    ..
    ..
    ..
    Randy/Maine
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Thanks, she's starting to get back to her old self.

    Quite a bit nervous down in here this deep but I'll work a while, take a break, come back to it.

    No idea how many q-tips and pipe cleaners I've used so far. :o
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    mhardy6647 wrote: »

    Chico and the man?
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Ok, top inside is much, much better.

    Decided to take a break, looked at the platter again, saw a few spots still there, grabbed the Mothers polish and more of that black stuff is still coming out of the platter.

    Granted it looks 100% better.
    I just can't figure out why the black residue is still coming out of the platter and the cloth looks the same as when I first polished it.
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,042
    I figured rubber mats were required for those of us with metal platters that ring like a bell?
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    That question is on my list once I get past this darn black stuff on/in the aluminum..
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    The reason for my concern on the black substance still in the platter is.

    Is it possible that this substance could cause an increase in the platter weight and creating improper spinning speed?

  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,350
    edited August 2016
    oldrocker wrote: »
    The reason for my concern on the black substance still in the platter is.

    Is it possible that this substance could cause an increase in the platter weight and creating improper spinning speed?

    The black residue is the chemical reaction and surface material you are removing. I highly doubt you can remove enough material to cause imbalance by hand. After the metal gets shiny, you stop applying polish and buff it clean and the black should stop. As I mentioned, I will wash the metal with soap and water and buff clean. It could be some polish is caught in the slight pitting the platter appeared to have?

    It's not like a wheel that was polished smooth by machine. I'm sure the surface is still slightly rough or irregular though it shines.

    Check out some car forums or google mothers polish black residue and you'll see what others do. Other metal polishes do the same thing. Now sanding to get pits out prior to polishing would remove more material and could possibly upset balance if one got carried away.

    Mothers works great on exhaust tips too!

    tips.jpg
    Post edited by SCompRacer on
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Info taken, THANKS...
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,922
    halo wrote: »
    mhardy6647 wrote: »

    Chico and the man?

    exactly so. More to the point, the late Freddie Prinze.
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    After getting sidetracked, walked away, ate a little supper and decided to give it a spin.

    Although the cover is not done, she is playing just fine. :)

    And yes, that is a Donna Summer record spinning. I only own 2 albums at this point.
    Donna Summer and Kiss Alive II. :o

    I'm using the CR 840 I got today going to my Polk 5jr's. B)

    f0nwxi0vt1u3.jpg




  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Evidently after all that darn cleaning, setting, lube, oil, cart and all the questions,
    I got it as right as I could.

    SHE LIVES..... :)
  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 32,922
    edited September 2016
    Wait. You own two albums -- and they're Donna Summer and Kiss?

    Maybe you better PM me your address; this sounds like a crisis!

    ;)

    In seriousness -- all's lookin' good.
    Nice job.
    Fun stuff, eh?

  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Heck of a collection of 2..Eh...

    Heading to town later to get a few new albums and yes this one has been gratifying and lots of fun...

    Last night when I fired her up, the wife came in and ask is that the TT going? She had a smile about as big as mine watching it spin..

    THANKS M and everyone else for all your help in bringing this ole gal back to life.
  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Talk about an old thread to pull up.

    Met a guy from way up north that just moved to this area.

    The guys a recently retired firefighter who does woodworking as a hobby.

    Looked at his new building and I didn't see a heating source, got to talking about how he was going to heat it and wound up giving him a gas wall heater I took out of my Daughters house.

    He then ask what was I wanting and I showed him a picture of the lid on that Polk TT.

    He said no problem. Just a few minor details he wanted to know and all should be good to go.

    I can't wait... B)