speaker connection: banana vs spade

For RTi A5, are spade terminals easy to install and secure, or banana plugs are much better, especially the interlocking type?
RTiA5 + CSiA4 + Jamo SW410E
Yamaha TSR-700 (equivalent to RX V6A)
No surround...yet
«13

Comments

  • BurrInspector
    BurrInspector Posts: 83
    edited December 2014
    Have you reached a 100 post's yet. Lol

    I prefer banana plugs, snug fit. I installed few systems for friends and family and used both connectors. I always recommended banana plugs but spades are cheaper where i am and if you have kids around its harder for them to pull it out
  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    I like Banana's for the amp and spades for the speakers... banana's plug in easier & quicker but for spades its nice to have a binding post wrench, and some speakers binding post make spades a no go.
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    Spades, banana's, bare wire....matter of preference is all. Bare wire though will oxidize quicker.
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  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,638
    Matter of preference. Both work well. Nanners are nice if you swap out gear frequently.
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    Spades... more surface area connection, more secure, easy to find copper spades compared to brass banana plugs.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Spades... more surface area connection

    BS
    more secure

    more BS
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Are "locking" banana plugs really better than regular banana plugs?
    RTiA5 + CSiA4 + Jamo SW410E
    Yamaha TSR-700 (equivalent to RX V6A)
    No surround...yet
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    French_guy wrote: »
    Are "locking" banana plugs really better than regular banana plugs?

    Yes. I use them, and they're very secure. Be sure your post and plug are clean, put a little DeoxIT on them, and you're good to go.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited December 2014
    French_guy wrote: »
    Are "locking" banana plugs really better than regular banana plugs?

    Locking ones are better than non locking ones.
    I use GLS locking banana plugs.
    Banana's are easy for swapping speakers for comparing.
    Depending upon the size of banana plugs, sometimes they are uneasily close together side by side.

    Mass marketed budget speakers have binding post that's not any better than cheap banana plugs so it actually doesn't matter what you use quality wise, they may still be much better than the material on the binding posts so the only way to ensure quality connection of your speaker wire and terminals is to match it all the way to speaker drivers.
    I've seen TOTL speaker model with crappy 22 awg internal wiring.

    For the terminals, my preference is to use bare wire > spades > banana (convenience).

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • Best? I'm fond of these:
    Nakamichi Speaker banana plug connector 24K 0153846
    off the bay.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Best? I'm fond of these:
    Nakamichi Speaker banana plug connector 24K 0153846
    off the bay.
    Those are good, inexpensive, and have dual set screws.
    I use these also: http://www.speakerrepair.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=locking
    Excellent construction, and securely lock.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited December 2014
    Best? I'm fond of these:
    Nakamichi Speaker banana plug connector 24K 0153846
    off the bay.
    Those are good, inexpensive, and have dual set screws.
    I use these also: http://www.speakerrepair.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=locking
    Excellent construction, and securely lock.

    That's what I use, GLS Audio locking banana plugs.
    I lost few screws though.
    I think they fell off from the unused ones as if they go all the way in, they come out from the back hole easily and get lost.

    It's gold plated and has dual screws to lock but it is still brass underneath though.

    bl-20pk.jpg


    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    French_guy wrote: »
    Are "locking" banana plugs really better than regular banana plugs?


    Sound quality wise, makes no difference. If your going to use banana's it's simply a convenience thing. Locking bananas will give you a more secure connection in case you have pets that play around or kids that might pull on the cable. Last thing you want is a cable coming out with the system on shorting out a piece of gear. If everything is secured, out of touch where it's hard to get at for anyone or anything, then not really a necessity.

    Spades and even bare wire will lock down on the binding post too making it hard for them to come loose even if a tug is applied. Not really rocket science here with connectors, just choose good quality ones if your going to add them yourself.

    If your inquiry about connectors is related to sound quality, then yes, varies between makes. As mentioned, Doug does have some very good connectors but also many are available elsewhere over your average run of the mill stuff. Depends on what you want to spend too, some can get fairly costly.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    la2vegas wrote: »
    I guess plugs are like wire, you can go from mild to wild.

    Same can be said for anything audio related.

    However I don't think the OP is looking to spend more on connectors than the cable itself....who would anyway ? You can find solid connectors at good prices pretty much anywhere.

    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Solder those connections. The screw down type still allow the copper wire to oxidize.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    F1nut wrote: »
    Solder those connections. The screw down type still allow the copper wire to oxidize.
    Correct, which is why I treat the bare copper with DeoxIT before assembly.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • gimpod
    gimpod Posts: 1,793
    F1nut wrote: »
    Solder those connections.

    I'll do you one better, I arc weld mine after all I use really cheap rusty paper clips soldered end to end with acid core solder then wrap them in duck tape. :stuck_out_tongue:

    Actually mine are Ultrasonically Welded.

    “The two most important days in your life are the day you are born and the day you find out why.” ~ Mark Twain
  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    F1nut wrote: »
    Spades... more surface area connection

    BS
    more secure

    more BS
    See if this was a true or false question from mystery I would have FAILED :( I have never used locking banana's so spades just seemed better connection to me.
    do you use silver solder for this connections?
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    voltz wrote: »
    See if this was a true or false question from mystery I would have FAILED :( I have never used locking banana's so spades just seemed better connection to me.
    do you use silver solder for this connections?

    I don't use locking banana plugs either. I use MIT ICONN banana plugs, which I've found to be very secure with plenty of contact.

    I use Cardas Quad solder, which has silver in it.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    I use GLS locking plugs and never had a problem. Now that I have some decent 10AWG Furez speaker wire on the way from Doug I was thinking of changing over to BFA plugs
    http://www.amazon.com/Eastone®-EB534E-Quality-Banana-Connector/dp/B00CL3RNH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418174883&sr=8-1&keywords=bfa+banana+plugs

    Good price say they are copper with gold plating but I doubt that.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited December 2014
    voltz wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Spades... more surface area connection

    BS
    more secure

    more BS
    See if this was a true or false question from mystery I would have FAILED :( I have never used locking banana's so spades just seemed better connection to me.
    do you use silver solder for this connections?

    Just because someone here thinks it's bs doesn't make it so.
    The only banana plugs with good surface area contact is the multi contact z banana plugs.
    Ever checked if the normal banana plug fits snugly?
    Most don't.
    They either need locking tabs that means only the leaves are making most contact or spring loaded middle area that is the only area making good contact. Other parts of the plug are not always touching the post all over.
    Believe what you want.
    Also if you solder, crimp first and then solder.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • What do you mean by crimp first, then solder? Do you crimp with some sort of "ferrule"?
    RTiA5 + CSiA4 + Jamo SW410E
    Yamaha TSR-700 (equivalent to RX V6A)
    No surround...yet
  • mrloren wrote: »
    I use GLS locking plugs and never had a problem. Now that I have some decent 10AWG Furez speaker wire on the way from Doug I was thinking of changing over to BFA plugs
    http://www.amazon.com/Eastone®-EB534E-Quality-Banana-Connector/dp/B00CL3RNH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418174883&sr=8-1&keywords=bfa+banana+plugs

    Good price say they are copper with gold plating but I doubt that.
    What makes you think the Easton are a good choice?
    RTiA5 + CSiA4 + Jamo SW410E
    Yamaha TSR-700 (equivalent to RX V6A)
    No surround...yet
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Yeah, it does make it BS because I know it is.

    I inserted an MIT banana plug into a speaker binding post with the nut removed. Looking at it under magnification I can see that the entire length and diameter of the shaft is making contact including the tip. The banana shaft length is .650 and the diameter is .150. Using an MIT spade on the same binding post only the two arms make contact, the length of each arm is .270 and the width is .080. Mind you, only the inside edges with parts of the bottom and top of the arms are making contact. Therefore, the banana plug has more contact area than the spade. Not that it even effing matters as the difference is too slight.

    Furthermore, if you can crimp the collar on a banana plug it's not worth squat.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited December 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Yeah, it does make it BS because I know it is.

    I inserted an MIT banana plug into a speaker binding post with the nut removed. Looking at it under magnification I can see that the entire length and diameter of the shaft is making contact including the tip. The banana shaft length is .650 and the diameter is .150. Using an MIT spade on the same binding post only the two arms make contact, the length of each arm is .270 and the width is .080. Mind you, only the inside edges with parts of the bottom and top of the arms are making contact. Therefore, the banana plug has more contact area than the spade. Not that it even effing matters as the difference is too slight.

    Furthermore, if you can crimp the collar on a banana plug it's not worth squat.

    At least this reply has some useful info rather than two letter word making everyone wonder what the BS that is.
    MIT and other good brands may be as per the binding post spec.

    I agree with your point that it doesn't matter what's used as long as they decent quality, specially at this level of audio gear.
    What about vibration? I read spades can be torqued as needed to reduce any vibration on the terminals.
    Also what about material used in the terminals?
    Copper spades can be found cheap while most banana plugs even from good companies are brass.
    I know the argument is electrons flow through the gold plating instead of the brass but that also means we have to rely on how good the plating is.

    What gave you idea of crimping the banana collar? :astonished: :
    My crimping suggestion is not to ready made banana plugs but spades as well as multi contact banana like this that just comes bare plug without any collar or jacket:
    banana1.jpg

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    [/quote]
    What makes you think the Easton are a good choice?
    [/quote]

    I don't think they are any good, that's why they are not shipping. It was more of an example of the BFA type I am looking for. I am not spending money on Furez cable (be here Thursday) to put junk ends on them. I think my GLS locking plugs are better. I am looking for a deal on the BFA plugs but not junk.

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    I have use lesser nannors before that when you move the speakers slightly then seem to pull out a bit making me want to use Spades for my Speaker ends, And Nannor's for jumpers. Quality makes a difference. I'm learning.
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
  • Looks like the Sewell deabolt have good reviews
    http://www.amazon.com/Deadbolt-Banana-12-pair-Sewell-Direct/dp/B006U3O566
    RTiA5 + CSiA4 + Jamo SW410E
    Yamaha TSR-700 (equivalent to RX V6A)
    No surround...yet
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    mrloren wrote: »
    I am not spending money on Furez cable (be here Thursday) to put junk ends on them. I think my GLS locking plugs are better. I am looking for a deal on the BFA plugs but not junk.

    Hmmm....and then what happens with these new connectors if you don't like the cable ? Take them off....re-sell the cables...stick the connectors in a drawer where they'll spend years collecting dust ?

    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's