Speaker spikes

2

Comments

  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,009
    edited December 2009
    Verdict?

    HOLY CRAP this is the best mod/tweak/anything i've done to this system yet. The bass tightened up, and there's a lot more "slam," percussiveness, just all around more powerful, even through the whole range. It takes a LOT more volume now before the sound starts to break up.

    If you're on the fence about spiking, JUST DO IT. For $7 for two sets, you CANNOT go wrong.

    I have to agree 100% with concealers' descriptions.UNBELIEVABLE...:eek:
    I have never heard SADEs' music sound so good except maybe on my RT3000ps.Now I have to relisten to my cd collection again....

    I thought they were awsome before and now I'm ashamed I demonstrated these SDA-SRS2s at less than their potential, ASHAMED I AM..:(.

    Thanks for the push Jessie...I did it and here are some shots NJPolker.

    I took a pic of my wire connector replacements too.
    I only had 7 of each kind of brass spikes so I put 4 new ones in front and yes they are the same height.

    Also notice the quality Polk audio used compared to the new smaller Parts Express inserts.

    I thought I quoted concealers words into a grey block...I've got to practice that alot more!
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • bigaudiofanatic
    bigaudiofanatic Posts: 4,415
    edited December 2009
    When I got my infinity's they did not come with spikes. I took the tower speaker to the hardware store and found some bolts that fit in the holes. Than a little later I just put a piece of MDF under the speaker instead of using the spikes.
    HT setup
    Panasonic 50" TH-50PZ80U
    Denon DBP-1610
    Monster HTS 1650
    Carver A400X :cool:
    MIT Exp 3 Speaker Wire
    Kef 104/2
    URC MX-780 Remote
    Sonos Play 1

    Living Room
    63 inch Samsung PN63C800YF
    Polk Surroundbar 3000
    Samsung BD-C7900
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,009
    edited December 2009
    Carrying that speaker must have looked funny at the store.
    I tell you what, I don't know why spikes help so much except the speaker must not be able to move from the woofers impacts on the air. My speakers were on rollers so that must have been a double faulting negative for the bass.The midrange even sounds cleaner at higher levels now.

    My SDAs sound especially amazing now.Really.
    Next comes the CAP upgrades.;)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • Krazyz1
    Krazyz1 Posts: 256
    edited January 2010
    There is a web company called ADONA. Make very large selection of spikes. Multiple lengths , thread pitch, colors ect. Also make some KILLER audio racks.
  • packetjones
    packetjones Posts: 1,059
    edited January 2010
    Krazyz1 wrote: »
    There is a web company called ADONA. Make very large selection of spikes. Multiple lengths , thread pitch, colors ect. Also make some KILLER audio racks.

    you posted this exact thing in another thread about stands... If you did not have so many posts i would think this was spam. anyways.....

    I saw that this thread was bumped up and thought i would comment on adding my spikes. The other night I added the spikes to my A5's and also replaced the jumper with a small piece of speaker wire. Since I did both at the same time I am not sure which had the bigger effect but it definitely was noticeable. Everything sounds a little crisper and a little tighter. I like it.

    Are there 3rd party spikes that are better than the ones that came with the speakers? I am sure there are some pricey ones available but this is a rather cheap tweak and do not want to spend much at all. Are the ones that Polk provided adequate?
    Front - RTiA5's
    Rear - RTiA3's
    Center - CSiA4
    Sub - PSW110
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,573
    edited January 2010
    I've had an Adona rack since Paul started his business back in 2003 or so....slackers.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    you posted this exact thing in another thread about stands... If you did not have so many posts i would think this was spam. anyways.....

    I saw that this thread was bumped up and thought i would comment on adding my spikes. The other night I added the spikes to my A5's and also replaced the jumper with a small piece of speaker wire. Since I did both at the same time I am not sure which had the bigger effect but it definitely was noticeable. Everything sounds a little crisper and a little tighter. I like it.

    Are there 3rd party spikes that are better than the ones that came with the speakers? I am sure there are some pricey ones available but this is a rather cheap tweak and do not want to spend much at all. Are the ones that Polk provided adequate?

    I these are the best in the business.

    https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

    I use them on my 1.2TLs and know that quite a few others here have used them and have the same opinion.
  • allstock
    allstock Posts: 136
    edited January 2010
    Alright, I have a question. if the purpose of spikes is to "connect" the speaker to the floor, why would you install spikes, and sit them on top of a section of wood,tile,cement, etc. Would that not defeat the purpose?:confused:
    Two Channel-SDA SRS 1.2tl's,modded, Cambridge Audio 851w amps(2),Cambridge 851e pre, VPI Scout 1.1 tt, Moon audio phono pre,oppo bd105.
    HT-Denon avr3808ci,Carver a-753x,Panasonic ae4000 projector,120" screen,ps3,wii console w/full rockband,Panamax conditioner,dbx120 subharmonic synthesizer,jvc dvd-a player, Polk RTi12 mains,Polk CSiA6 centre, Energy ES-18xl sub,two custom 10" powered subs, Def Tech bp2x surrounds(4),Paradigm monitors-rear(2)
  • packetjones
    packetjones Posts: 1,059
    edited January 2010
    I these are the best in the business.

    https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

    I use them on my 1.2TLs and know that quite a few others here have used them and have the same opinion.


    Just a question about these. Are the say $10 per spike or $10 for one speaker worth (4)? If they are per spike then that would $40 per speaker or $80 for a pair.

    Also the shipping seems crazy... are they missing a decimal point?
    Front - RTiA5's
    Rear - RTiA3's
    Center - CSiA4
    Sub - PSW110
  • packetjones
    packetjones Posts: 1,059
    edited January 2010
    I am unable to edit my previous post any longer.

    I realised that the pricing was for the speaker stands they make not the spikes.
    Front - RTiA5's
    Rear - RTiA3's
    Center - CSiA4
    Sub - PSW110
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    Just a question about these. Are the say $10 per spike or $10 for one speaker worth (4)? If they are per spike then that would $40 per speaker or $80 for a pair.

    Also the shipping seems crazy... are they missing a decimal point?

    I saw your edit below but wanted to comment anyway. Brass is very heavy and it's coming for Canada so the shipping costs might be a little higher than you'd expect.
  • superjunior
    superjunior Posts: 1,632
    edited January 2010
    allstock wrote: »
    Alright, I have a question. if the purpose of spikes is to "connect" the speaker to the floor, why would you install spikes, and sit them on top of a section of wood,tile,cement, etc. Would that not defeat the purpose?:confused:

    I was hoping someone would have answered this for you as I was wondering the same thing. I'm reluctant to install my spikes as I really don't want holes in my carpet. having them on tiles on the other hand would be fine but is there really a benefit to this approach?
    panasonic th-50pz85u
    pioneer elite vsx-92txh
    pioneer elite bdp-05fd
    emotiva xpa-3
    monster power hdp 2550
    sa 8300 hd dvr
    sda 2b's
    fronts - rti a9's
    center - csi a6
    surrounds - fxi a6's
    sub - polk dsw pro 600
    harmony one
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    I was hoping someone would have answered this for you as I was wondering the same thing. I'm reluctant to install my spikes as I really don't want holes in my carpet. having them on tiles on the other hand would be fine but is there really a benefit to this approach?

    Those holes close up by themselves. I have moved my 1.2 TLs several times and there are no signs of the holes the spikes made.

    Yes there is a benefit. They solidly couple the speaker cabinet to the solid surface below the carpet thus taking out the cabinet resonance.
  • superjunior
    superjunior Posts: 1,632
    edited January 2010
    Those holes close up by themselves. I have moved my 1.2 TLs several times and there are no signs of the holes the spikes made.

    Yes there is a benefit. They solidly couple the speaker cabinet to the solid surface below the carpet thus taking out the cabinet resonance.

    sounds good. I was thinking tiles or granite would look cool under the spiked speakers but which do you think would sound better, spikes strait to carpet or some kind of base between the two?
    panasonic th-50pz85u
    pioneer elite vsx-92txh
    pioneer elite bdp-05fd
    emotiva xpa-3
    monster power hdp 2550
    sa 8300 hd dvr
    sda 2b's
    fronts - rti a9's
    center - csi a6
    surrounds - fxi a6's
    sub - polk dsw pro 600
    harmony one
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    sounds good. I was thinking tiles or granite would look cool under the spiked speakers but which do you think would sound better, spikes strait to carpet or some kind of base between the two?

    IMHO placing a hard surface over carpet with the spiked speakers on top would still cause the softness of the carpet & mat beneath it to cause resonance. I could be wrong but I think it best to get the speakers coupled to the foundation under the carpet.
  • superjunior
    superjunior Posts: 1,632
    edited January 2010
    IMHO placing a hard surface over carpet with the spiked speakers on top would still cause the softness of the carpet & mat beneath it to cause resonance. I could be wrong but I think it best to get the speakers coupled to the foundation under the carpet.

    that seems to make the most sense
    thanks
    panasonic th-50pz85u
    pioneer elite vsx-92txh
    pioneer elite bdp-05fd
    emotiva xpa-3
    monster power hdp 2550
    sa 8300 hd dvr
    sda 2b's
    fronts - rti a9's
    center - csi a6
    surrounds - fxi a6's
    sub - polk dsw pro 600
    harmony one
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    edited January 2010
    Mye Sound spikes. 'Nuff said.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • allstock
    allstock Posts: 136
    edited January 2010
    that seems to make the most sense
    thanks

    +1. I'm gonna spike everything in sight!
    Two Channel-SDA SRS 1.2tl's,modded, Cambridge Audio 851w amps(2),Cambridge 851e pre, VPI Scout 1.1 tt, Moon audio phono pre,oppo bd105.
    HT-Denon avr3808ci,Carver a-753x,Panasonic ae4000 projector,120" screen,ps3,wii console w/full rockband,Panamax conditioner,dbx120 subharmonic synthesizer,jvc dvd-a player, Polk RTi12 mains,Polk CSiA6 centre, Energy ES-18xl sub,two custom 10" powered subs, Def Tech bp2x surrounds(4),Paradigm monitors-rear(2)
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited January 2010
    You guys have a lot to learn about speaker spikes/footers.

    This is the place to get educated.

    "BRASS FOOTERS: ESSENTIAL FOR GREAT SOUND

    Using Mapleshade’s brass footers will transform the sound of each of your stereo components —your speakers, CD/DVD player, amp, receiver, turntable, power conditioner. I guarantee exactly that.

    Expect music to sound strikingly more live, more gripping. Listening to Kind Of Blue, I hear deep into Miles’ soulful, subtle, breathy note-bending. Paul Chamber’s bass sounds deeper, more articulated, giving it more real gut impact. Jimmy Cobb’s Gretsch drums are crisper, his cymbals sound brassier and ring more brilliantly.

    Here’s the physics: electrical currents, the music signals that drive your speakers, also create unwanted vibrations inside every electronic component and speaker cabinet. A simple experiment I conducted 15 years ago (which you can repeat at home) proves these internal vibes—not the external room vibrations—are the bad actors muddying the music signal. So standard isolating devices like springs, rubber feet, sand, magnetic suspensions, or air bladders don’t help. These products trap the vibes inside the component, exacerbating muddying of the signals, especially in the bass frequencies.

    By design, our footers do the opposite. Rigid and massive, they lock the component to the shelf below using single-point contact. That’s the most effective way to drain vibration. Nevertheless, our experiments show that the wrong footer material (or too little mass, or the wrong shape) can reflect distorted vibrations back into the equipment. That’s why improperly designed footers can yield sound that is dulled and lifeless or piercing and shrill. I’ve tested every promising high-tech material: ceramics were too bright; titanium, carbon fiber, stainless steel, aluminum and ebony were relatively dead and smeared. Brass was by far the best: much more dynamic, vibrantly warm and more detailed. Our 30-day moneyback lets you make your own comparisons.

    We normally offer unattached footers in sets of three. Using four unattached footers requires shimming the height of one to compensate for the inevitable slight unevenness of the surface below. Using three requires no compensation and there’s no sonic advantage to using four. For threaded footers under very narrow tower speakers, we recommend four only to add stability. Of course, use four when replacing four threaded factory feet."

    http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/departments.asp?dept=96

    You also need to get your speakers off the floor and onto maple platforms.

    "MAPLE STANDS FOR FLOORSTANDING SPEAKERS

    Concrete and plywood floors cripple the sound of your speakers. They muddy the bass, smear the midrange, and suck the life out of the treble. In fact, 90% of “room problems” are caused by bad-sounding floors. Instead of spending thousands on room treatments that address the wrong problem, here is a direct, evidence-based cure: drain the speakers’ vibrational energy, not into the problem floor, but into heavy maple bases rigidly mounted on the floor via massive brass feet.

    Our 2" or 4" maple bases make a far cleaner sink for receiving and dissipating the speakers’ vibrations than flimsy, resonant ½" plywood flooring or, worst of all, concrete. Instead of accepting these vibrations, concrete, tile, and stone strongly reflect back almost all the vibrational energy out of phase and distorted. Equally toxic to good speaker sound are modern “engineered” wood floors, particularly floating floors that rest on rubbery insulating sheets. Carpet over concrete or plywood just worsens the situation.

    To double the sonic upgrade of our maple stands, replace your speakers’ spikes or composite feet with our much more rigid brass Threaded Heavyfeet, Triplepoints, MegaMounts or Threaded Megafeet."

    http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/departments.asp?dept=62
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • allstock
    allstock Posts: 136
    edited January 2010
    BlueFox wrote: »
    You guys have a lot to learn about speaker spikes/footers.

    This is the place to get educated.

    "BRASS FOOTERS: ESSENTIAL FOR GREAT SOUND

    Using Mapleshade’s brass footers will transform the sound of each of your stereo components —your speakers, CD/DVD player, amp, receiver, turntable, power conditioner. I guarantee exactly that.

    Expect music to sound strikingly more live, more gripping. Listening to Kind Of Blue, I hear deep into Miles’ soulful, subtle, breathy note-bending. Paul Chamber’s bass sounds deeper, more articulated, giving it more real gut impact. Jimmy Cobb’s Gretsch drums are crisper, his cymbals sound brassier and ring more brilliantly.

    Here’s the physics: electrical currents, the music signals that drive your speakers, also create unwanted vibrations inside every electronic component and speaker cabinet. A simple experiment I conducted 15 years ago (which you can repeat at home) proves these internal vibes—not the external room vibrations—are the bad actors muddying the music signal. So standard isolating devices like springs, rubber feet, sand, magnetic suspensions, or air bladders don’t help. These products trap the vibes inside the component, exacerbating muddying of the signals, especially in the bass frequencies.

    By design, our footers do the opposite. Rigid and massive, they lock the component to the shelf below using single-point contact. That’s the most effective way to drain vibration. Nevertheless, our experiments show that the wrong footer material (or too little mass, or the wrong shape) can reflect distorted vibrations back into the equipment. That’s why improperly designed footers can yield sound that is dulled and lifeless or piercing and shrill. I’ve tested every promising high-tech material: ceramics were too bright; titanium, carbon fiber, stainless steel, aluminum and ebony were relatively dead and smeared. Brass was by far the best: much more dynamic, vibrantly warm and more detailed. Our 30-day moneyback lets you make your own comparisons.

    We normally offer unattached footers in sets of three. Using four unattached footers requires shimming the height of one to compensate for the inevitable slight unevenness of the surface below. Using three requires no compensation and there’s no sonic advantage to using four. For threaded footers under very narrow tower speakers, we recommend four only to add stability. Of course, use four when replacing four threaded factory feet."

    http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/departments.asp?dept=96

    You also need to get your speakers off the floor and onto maple platforms.

    "MAPLE STANDS FOR FLOORSTANDING SPEAKERS

    Concrete and plywood floors cripple the sound of your speakers. They muddy the bass, smear the midrange, and suck the life out of the treble. In fact, 90% of “room problems” are caused by bad-sounding floors. Instead of spending thousands on room treatments that address the wrong problem, here is a direct, evidence-based cure: drain the speakers’ vibrational energy, not into the problem floor, but into heavy maple bases rigidly mounted on the floor via massive brass feet.

    Our 2" or 4" maple bases make a far cleaner sink for receiving and dissipating the speakers’ vibrations than flimsy, resonant ½" plywood flooring or, worst of all, concrete. Instead of accepting these vibrations, concrete, tile, and stone strongly reflect back almost all the vibrational energy out of phase and distorted. Equally toxic to good speaker sound are modern “engineered” wood floors, particularly floating floors that rest on rubbery insulating sheets. Carpet over concrete or plywood just worsens the situation.

    To double the sonic upgrade of our maple stands, replace your speakers’ spikes or composite feet with our much more rigid brass Threaded Heavyfeet, Triplepoints, MegaMounts or Threaded Megafeet."

    http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/departments.asp?dept=62

    Alrighty then, I 'll go buy some brass bar stock and get the lathe a'spinnin. I've got a huge maple in the back that is kind of an eyesore too, off to the mill it goes. I'll try most any tweak, but the prices they want for "special" brass feet (sorry, "footers") is kind of crazy. I'm sure my 1.2tl's don't need the extra weight of brass under them to couple them to whatever is under them. 1/4"-20 threaded rod chucked in the drill and ground to a spike against the bench grinder works just fine. Maybe with the leftover brass I'll start sitting it on top of my amps to deaden those dreaded "electrical current vibrations" that are muddying up my sound.



    BTW, I wasn't kidding about the brass bar stock, or the maple tree...
    Two Channel-SDA SRS 1.2tl's,modded, Cambridge Audio 851w amps(2),Cambridge 851e pre, VPI Scout 1.1 tt, Moon audio phono pre,oppo bd105.
    HT-Denon avr3808ci,Carver a-753x,Panasonic ae4000 projector,120" screen,ps3,wii console w/full rockband,Panamax conditioner,dbx120 subharmonic synthesizer,jvc dvd-a player, Polk RTi12 mains,Polk CSiA6 centre, Energy ES-18xl sub,two custom 10" powered subs, Def Tech bp2x surrounds(4),Paradigm monitors-rear(2)
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    I've had those footers from Mapleshade on my hit list for quite awhile. They are just too damned expensive right now for me to get them under all my gear. I'm also interested in the ones that go on top of the gear too.
  • superjunior
    superjunior Posts: 1,632
    edited January 2010
    wish I had the space in my rack to give those a try - too tight as it is
    panasonic th-50pz85u
    pioneer elite vsx-92txh
    pioneer elite bdp-05fd
    emotiva xpa-3
    monster power hdp 2550
    sa 8300 hd dvr
    sda 2b's
    fronts - rti a9's
    center - csi a6
    surrounds - fxi a6's
    sub - polk dsw pro 600
    harmony one
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited January 2010
    I've had those footers from Mapleshade on my hit list for quite awhile. They are just too damned expensive right now for me to get them under all my gear. I'm also interested in the ones that go on top of the gear too.

    True. I have Micropoints under the SACD/CD, DAC, Pre-amp, and power conditioner, and TriplePoints under both amps. Standalone brass weights are on the Wadia dock, and the upgraded Wadia power supply. The speakers are on 4" maple platforms, but I am still using stock speaker spikes. However, the spikes rest in brass Sonic Saucers from Audio Advisor.

    Just doing that was an expense, but I really feel it made a positive effect. The last set of footers I added was to the power conditioner, and I swear it seemed as if the treble became more pronounced. Not bright, just more detailed.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,010
    edited January 2010
    This may sound silly but I put some ceramic cones Russman sent me under my PS3 and I swear the picture looks sharper.
  • bikerboy
    bikerboy Posts: 1,205
    edited January 2010
    Hi,
    I have a concrete floor without carpet. So I made 3 wood blocks for each speaker and removed the mdf base on the sda-2a speakers. Made a huge difference in impact and blackness of the sound. I will have to try the spikes, but I dont think the 2.3s that I have now can use them. I will have to look. I know I need to reattach the base plate because they are loose. Would I be able to tighten the base plate if I remove the passive driver?
    Main system: Lyngdorf TDAI 2170 w/ Pioneer 42" plazma-> Polk LSiM 703 w/Tivo, Marantz tuner, BRPTT: Nothingham Spacedeck-> Pioneer PL L1000 linear arm-> Soundsmith DL 103R-> SUT->Bottlehead ErosDigital: I3 PC w/ Jriver playing flac -> Sonore Ultrarendu -> Twisted Pair Audio ESS 9028 w/ Mercury IVY Vinyl rips: ESI Juli@24/192-> i3 PC server
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    bikerboy wrote: »
    Hi,
    I have a concrete floor without carpet. So I made 3 wood blocks for each speaker and removed the mdf base on the sda-2a speakers. Made a huge difference in impact and blackness of the sound. I will have to try the spikes, but I dont think the 2.3s that I have now can use them. I will have to look. I know I need to reattach the base plate because they are loose. Would I be able to tighten the base plate if I remove the passive driver?

    Jeff, if you are referring to the passive radiator at the bottom of the cabinet, then the answer would be yes. Just remove the PR and you will be able to get your whole hand and arm into the cabinet.

    When you do get around to spiking your speakers, the Mye Sound points are the way to go. You could use the smaller spikes on the 2As and the larger spikes on the 2.3s. Make sure you tell Grant you are a member of this forum.

    https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited January 2010
    This may sound silly but I put some ceramic cones Russman sent me under my PS3 and I swear the picture looks sharper.

    Doesn't sound silly at all. I use Black Diamond Racing cones, made from carbon fiber, under my turntable and the results are nothing short of stunning.
  • adam2434
    adam2434 Posts: 995
    edited February 2010
    You guys have inspired me to spike my LS90s. I'm currently using the stock round feet.

    These should thread right in to the existing inserts, being 1/4-20, right?

    http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_121&products_id=1047

    They seem to be a pretty good deal for those that don't want to spend $10 per spike.
    5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
    2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
    2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
    2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
    Kitchen: Sonos Play5.
  • RyanJoz
    RyanJoz Posts: 116
    edited February 2010
    www.oregondv.com has spikes of different thread patterns available. I got the 1.375" spikes because they fit in the holes in my a9's (with a little effort).
    Ryan Jozwiak

    "Because music was meant to be felt and heard"

    polkaudio RTiA9
    polkaudio RT35i
    polkaudio PSW 404
    HK 3370
    HK FL8380
    HK DVD 22
    Adcom GFA 5500
    Samsung 40" LCD 120 Hz
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited February 2010
    adam2434 wrote: »
    You guys have inspired me to spike my LS90s. I'm currently using the stock round feet.

    These should thread right in to the existing inserts, being 1/4-20, right?

    http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_121&products_id=1047

    They seem to be a pretty good deal for those that don't want to spend $10 per spike.

    Not to burst your bubble but those look a little flimsy and not much mass but for the price go for it they may present a surprise.

    Keep us posted.:)