SDA 1C's are ready for the upgrade bug

Toolfan66
Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
edited June 2012 in Vintage Speakers
"OK" My 1C's will be hitting the upgrade table soon. (like this weekend)
I am going to take these minty looking 1C's completely apart.

I will be redoing the wood caps in a dark stain or piano black paint, the paint shop wants to see them first before they commit to the piano black paint,

The grill cloth will be replaced,

The drivers and passive radiators will be dynamated, and mortited,the drivers will be JB welded in a few spots around the magnets.

The SL2000 will be replaced with RDO-194's,

The crossovers will be upgraded with sonicaps and mills,

The binding posts will be upgraded to Vampire BPHEXCB binding post
(still debating on a third set for a upgraded interconnect cable with bananas)

And last but not least these babys will be spiked....

I am thinking about making a set of binding post interconnect mounting plates(not because they need it just because I can) out of delrin.

Don't think I am missing anything, this will take me a few weeks to do as I will not rush it nor am I in any hurry. So say goodbye to a minty condition set of stock 1C's.

SDA1CsUpgrade011.jpg
SDA1CsUpgrade010.jpg
SDA1CsUpgrade012-1.jpg

I will update this thread as I move forward...:D

Here is one reason the polk forum should not shut down...

Peace,

Larry,
Post edited by Toolfan66 on
«134567

Comments

  • WastelandWand'r
    WastelandWand'r Posts: 466
    edited March 2010
    Sounds like a great project!!!!
    I still need to break out the drivers on mine and dynamat and mortite them.
    I am not sure they have been out of the holes since new and hesitant to bust the seal on them. (PR's excluded)
    On a personal note, please throw out some photos on the JB weld mod.
    This keeps the magnets from shifting, no?
    Nathan
    Home Rig

    SDA 2.3TL's front and center
    Polk 1000p Center
    Pioneer Elite SC35 Receiver (Pre/Surround
    Sunfire Cinema Grand 5X200-Back in the mix.
    OPPO BDP-93
    Squeezebox
    Stepped up to name brand Speaker Cables and interconnects!
    Monitor 4, 5, 7, 10's, SDA 1B's, 2B's, 2.3TL's, RTA 15TL's all in storage waiting for me.
    Sales Rating #1!!
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,010
    edited March 2010
    Very nice!!! I like the JB idea in case they get transported in the future.
    Have fun man.

    One more thing:
    (still debating on a third set for a upgraded interconnect cable with bananas) DO IT.
  • zarrdoss
    zarrdoss Posts: 2,562
    edited March 2010
    will these be replacing your 1.2? if only for some time huh?
  • Fongolio
    Fongolio Posts: 3,516
    edited March 2010
    Cool. Have fun. The only thing I don't like is going piano black paint. Personally I love the look of wood grain. Even dark. The black paint I think would make them resemble studio's but if that's your preference, go for it!! I might change my mind when I see them. One or two other mods to consider are lining the boxes with rigid insulation and stuffing 1/2 to 3/4 with polyfil. Geoff727 did that with mine and they sound unreal. He also built an isolation box around the tweeter arrays inside the cabinets. This helps the tweeters not be affected by the cabinet becoming pressurized as the 6 1/2''s pump. Lastly he also re-drilled the mounting holes on all drivers and put in threaded inserts and mounted the drivers with allen T-nuts. A very classy looking finish for mounting hardware. Just a few suggestions. Take from it what you will. With the tweets and crossovers you will hear a giant difference. Have fun.

    Kelvin
    SDA-1C (full mods)
    Carver TFM-55
    NAD 1130 Pre-amp
    Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
    The Clamp
    Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
    Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
    Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
    Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
    Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
    ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
    Ben's IC's
    Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM
  • dpowell
    dpowell Posts: 3,050
    edited March 2010
    Very nice. My 1C studios will live vicariously through your 1C's for the time being. Someday I'll do the same. I'm interested to know more about what you are dynamatting and mortiting and why/what you improve by doing so.
    ____________________________________________________________ polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS SVS PB13 Ultra x 2Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400, ADCOM 7807, Panasonic UB420, Sony SCD-C333ES, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
  • Fongolio
    Fongolio Posts: 3,516
    edited March 2010
    Dynamat usually goes on the speaker baskets to stop any ringing and mortite is used around mounting flanges to create a better seal causing the box to be more air tight and improve the effect of the passive radiator.
    SDA-1C (full mods)
    Carver TFM-55
    NAD 1130 Pre-amp
    Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
    The Clamp
    Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
    Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
    Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
    Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
    Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
    ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
    Ben's IC's
    Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    Sounds like a great project!!!!
    I still need to break out the drivers on mine and dynamat and mortite them.
    I am not sure they have been out of the holes since new and hesitant to bust the seal on them. (PR's excluded)
    On a personal note, please throw out some photos on the JB weld mod.
    This keeps the magnets from shifting, no?
    Nathan

    yes it is to help keep the magnets from shifting, I did my 1.2tl's and it took some time to do all the drivers..
    Have fun man.

    One more thing:
    (still debating on a third set for a upgraded interconnect cable with bananas) DO IT.

    Thanks, Yeah I am sure I will do the binding posts for the interconnect..
    zarrdoss wrote: »
    will these be replacing your 1.2? if only for some time huh?

    Only till I finish the grill cloth and wood caps on the 1.2tl's
    Fongolio wrote: »
    Cool. Have fun. The only thing I don't like is going piano black paint. Personally I love the look of wood grain. Even dark. The black paint I think would make them resemble studio's but if that's your preference, go for it!! I might change my mind when I see them. One or two other mods to consider are lining the boxes with rigid insulation and stuffing 1/2 to 3/4 with polyfil. Geoff727 did that with mine and they sound unreal. He also built an isolation box around the tweeter arrays inside the cabinets. This helps the tweeters not be affected by the cabinet becoming pressurized as the 6 1/2''s pump. Lastly he also re-drilled the mounting holes on all drivers and put in threaded inserts and mounted the drivers with allen T-nuts. A very classy looking finish for mounting hardware. Just a few suggestions. Take from it what you will. With the tweets and crossovers you will hear a giant difference. Have fun.

    Kelvin

    Thanks Kelvin for the other ideas I will keep them in mind for sure..;)
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,009
    edited March 2010
    I love these project upgrades with photos! Larry, and others before,Thanks for sharing this with us!;)

    I'll compile mine all together one day on my SDA-SRS's and SDA-CRS's like your doing here. Hear that AL, we need this forum for our Polk audio speaker endeavors.:D
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,163
    edited March 2010
    I'm all for the tweeter, cap, resistor upgrades, but I love the way the 1C looks. Maybe slightly darker stain on the wood, but not piano black....You'd be making them look like Mirage speakers if you did that! Good luck with the upgrades.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited March 2010
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^what he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^6666
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    Well I have 1 torn down...

    Naked1Cs001.jpg
    Naked1Cs002.jpg
  • michaeljhsda2
    michaeljhsda2 Posts: 2,165
    edited March 2010
    Looks like fun Larry. That's gonna be my next project in a few weeks. How does the glue look on the internal bracing and the corners? Are you doing the xovers yourself?
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    Looks like fun Larry. That's gonna be my next project in a few weeks. How does the glue look on the internal bracing and the corners? Are you doing the xovers yourself?

    The glue looks great but I may be doing an internal mod to the cabnets after talking to Ben.

    I may or may not do the crossovers myself. I have everything here to do it myself but have thought about just sending them to Ben. as his soldering skills are better then mine.
  • Vette C6.r
    Vette C6.r Posts: 1,560
    edited March 2010
    The glue looks great but I may be doing an internal mod to the cabnets after talking to Ben


    Can you describe what internal cabinet mod you are doing ??
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2010
    Additional bracing? Sonic Barrier?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    Well I bit the bullet and ordered some BLACKHOLE 5 for the back walls, and some Sonic Barrier for the side walls top and bottom as well.

    I also have my new binding posts on the way as well.

    I sure hope my investment in these is worth it. My only worry is that I will want to put the Sonic Barrier and/or BlackHole 5 in my 1.2tl's :)
  • Hamatym
    Hamatym Posts: 269
    edited March 2010
    Larry,

    Nice looking project!! I have the same exact speakers and just received the upgraded Crossovers and IC cable back from Ben. I got the RDO-194's in them and spiked...First listening was a half hour ago and they sure sound great! From what I understand, there is a good 100 hour break-in time and they improve....these are truely awesome speakers for their size! I also prefer the wood look as well, but the Gloss black does look amazing as well.

    Good luck, and keep the pics and updates coming...I will follow closely
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    Thanks,

    I will keep it updated as I go, I should have some more pics this weekend as I start the wood caps, and drivers.

    You will keep hearing them get better as they reach 300 hours. if you have not dynamated the drivers and passive's do so. that tweek is just as awesome as the spikes.


    Hamatym wrote: »
    Larry,

    Nice looking project!! I have the same exact speakers and just received the upgraded Crossovers and IC cable back from Ben. I got the RDO-194's in them and spiked...First listening was a half hour ago and they sure sound great! From what I understand, there is a good 100 hour break-in time and they improve....these are truely awesome speakers for their size! I also prefer the wood look as well, but the Gloss black does look amazing as well.

    Good luck, and keep the pics and updates coming...I will follow closely
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    Pictures Of the drivers and passives being Dynamated.

    SDA1CsDynamatExtreme004.jpg
    SDA1CsDynamatExtreme005.jpg
    SDA1CsDynamatExtreme006.jpg
    SDA1CsDynamatExtreme007.jpg
    SDA1CsDynamatExtreme008.jpg
    SDA1CsDynamatExtreme009.jpg
    SDA1CsDynamatExtreme010.jpg
    SDA1CsDynamatExtreme011.jpg
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    Nice work Larry.

    Wow your sheet of Dynamatt E is very crinkly. I wonder why. Mine are as smooth as a baby's bottom.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    Well I had trouble getting one of the bottom caps off, the other three came off with ease. Polk must have used a little too much glue, to me it looks like liquid nail. as you can see it took a couple of chunks out of the wood cap.
    (better that then the cabnet) I went to Home Depot and got some Plastic Wood, this stuff works great, and filled the holes and sanded them down, I might have been able to leave them as they were and filled them with a little liquid nail when I put the caps back on, but it was bothering me.

    I lightly sanded the caps and put some black stain on them (2 coats of stain)
    after that I put on a coat of polyurethane. don't judge the picture just yet as it is only one coat, and I will be lightly sanding between each coat till I put on about 10 coats of polyurethane.

    SDA1Cwoodcaps001.jpg
    SDA1Cwoodcaps002.jpg
    SDA1Cwoodcaps004.jpg
    SDA1Cwoodcaps013.jpg
    SDA1Cwoodcaps014.jpg
    SDA1Cwoodcaps009.jpg
  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited March 2010
    Looking good !!
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    leroyjr1 wrote: »
    Looking good !!

    Thanks Leroy!!!:cool:
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    Looks good Larry! Are you still dizzy?:D;)
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    Looks good Larry! Are you still dizzy?:D;)

    Thanks Joe!!

    Yep just a little, and I am about to go out and do the second coat..
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,834
    edited March 2010
    What would one think about using Velcro on the side panels? That way if one needed to do a quick fix on a side panel, pull off fix and stick back on..

    Thoughts??
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,010
    edited March 2010
    I thought about using velcro, it can be done.

    My only fear was that it could make the side panel rest too far off of the speaker and you may see a gap. You could always give it a try, cause it would be an easy fix if you did not like it.
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2010
    I thought about using velcro, it can be done.

    My only fear was that it could make the side panel rest too far off of the speaker and you may see a gap. You could always give it a try, cause it would be an easy fix if you did not like it.

    The least little bit of gap between the side panel and the box will cause some rattling. My 1.2TL had a split in the seam in the lower right of the cabinet. On bass heavy passages it rattled and buzzed until I sealed it up. The gap couldn't have been more than a hair thick.
  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,785
    edited March 2010
    What would one think about using Velcro on the side panels? That way if one needed to do a quick fix on a side panel, pull off fix and stick back on..

    Thoughts??

    Reinstall the correct way it'll last another 20 years.
  • salasg
    salasg Posts: 172
    edited March 2010
    Great work on the speakers. I am lookin at Dynamating my SDA 1C's in the near future. How much Dynamat did you need to do your 1C's and what did it run you. Eventually I will do the RDO's and crossovers.:D