newest model 12 sub for sale

i have a new 12 inch gnx124 subwoofer (still in the box) for sale and im asking like 100-120$ or best offer i will also except trades for other audio products. this sub comes with a receipt and insurance becuz i have insurance on one sub and if i give a copy of the receipt to the buyer then it will show that you have insurance also. if you are interested or just have any questions write me at frwhtresn@aol.com or just reply to this thread. hopefully someone will respond. thanx (insurance means everytime you blow it that you can replace it for free at any circuit city for the next two years, even if its your fault)

scott
Post edited by polkaudiosupra101 on
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Comments

  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited November 2001
    NOBODY WANTS MY SUB???? OK, OK, OK, 80 BUCKS GETS IT................... C'MON I NEED THE MONEY, IT HAS INSURANCE AND EVERYTHING!!!!!!! JUST NAME THE PRICE IF YOU ARE EVEN INTERESTED.
  • doorbell
    doorbell Posts: 30
    edited November 2001
    What kind of subwoofer is it? Whats the name brand or is it a DIY subbie?:confused:
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited November 2001
    its a 12" polk audio gnx124

    the sub is very good quality i now have mine hooked up to a 800 watt amp and it hits very hard
  • doorbell
    doorbell Posts: 30
    edited November 2001
    Ok, so it's a Polk sub. Im stupid and dumb but could you clarify as to the symbols gnx124? Is it similiar to a Polk 350 sub? Just trying to get as much information before commiting myself. Wouldn't it sound pretty good with a second sub to your system? How many amps is the sub? I already have a Sony SAW40 sub with 120 amps and it kicks. Audioreview.com rated the Sony sub as a 4.6 out of 5 stars from 234 consumers and thinking of adding a second sub to go with RM6600. Thanks for your patience on answering my questions.
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited November 2001
    gnx 124 means that its a 12 inch sub thus the 12 and the 4 means that its stable at 4 ohms (which is good) i believe i actually have mine at 2 ohms which its not suppossed to be able to handle but it does so thats a plus. i believe that the sub sounds good and will hit hard no matter how many watts you have going to it. ive had 400, 800, 200, and 50 watts(it was hooked up to my stereo without an amp) going to the gnx124 and it sounded good at all amounts of power. any other questions? by all means ask me i dont mind at all.
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited November 2001
    the sub says that its peak power is 400 watts but you can hook up 3 times any subs power peak considering its hooked up correctly and safely. like i said ive had 800 watts going to mine before.as far as it sounding good it all depends on what you have it in (what kind of box) and how much power you have going to it in that box. my friend has two sony 12"s and i definately think that this is just as good a sub if not better.
  • blu_viper
    blu_viper Posts: 18
    edited December 2001
    you aren't real bright are you there bud first of all you can't have your sub pulling 2 ohms unless you have two subs wired in parallel second of all you said that your amp pushes twice as many watts as what the speakers are rated at becuase the peak on the subs are 400 well geuss what 175 (the rms rating is what the max power really is the peak to peak rating is normally closer to twice as much as what your subs can handle. it's normally good to buy an amp thats rated to push your subs at what the peak is rated and set the amp down to what the RMS rating is. you cannot wire a sub to pull a different amount of OHM's than what its rated at unless you have 2 or more (2 4ohm subs make a 2ohm load, 2 8ohm subs make a 4 ohm load and 4 8ohm subs make a 2ohm load)
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited December 2001
    it is at two ohms considering i have my amp on 2 positive and 2 negative wires because my box is made for two 12s so dont reply to things you dont know about idiot. and i have my sub hooked up to a 800 watt amp with 400 rms. if you doubt pyramids then rest assured that i have had my sub hooked up to a rockford 600 watt amp so once again go play ignorant on someone elses thread. ok?? thanx anyway!

    scott
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited December 2001
    Not to argue, but state the facts....

    You cannot lower the OHM load of one, single voice coil sub, regardless of the wiring to the amp(s).

    If you had a dvc model, you could parallel wire to reach 2 ohm (with 2 4ohm voicecoils). If you have two (single voice coil, 4 ohm)subs installed, you could parallel also, to reach 2ohm.

    So is he running 2 ohm? With 2, 4 ohm 124's installed, he can. With 1, 4ohm 124 installed, no.

    Cheers,
    Russ
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • blu_viper
    blu_viper Posts: 18
    edited December 2001
    good job russman but the model number on the dual voice coil model is 12DVC and unless i read the post wrong he said he has one sub hooked up to a 800watt amp
  • blu_viper
    blu_viper Posts: 18
    edited December 2001
    stupid question i fogot to ask in the last message, how exactly are you running 1 sub out of a box made for two subs? or are you running two subs? and also any sub is going to have better clairity and sound if you have an amp that pushes more power for instance if you have a sub rated for 200 watts and an amp rated for 200 watts there will be lots of distortion, you might not be able to notice it but it will damage the subs and reduce the life to the subs so it is better to a a 350 or higher amp on a sub rated for a 200watt sub, also the sub is not whats rated as being stable at 4 ohms or 8ohms or whatever else its the amp that matters you will melt (litterally) the amp if you run a 1.2 ohm load on an amp thats rated as low as 2 ohms also if you bridge it like it sounds like your doing your doubling your ohm load (changing 2ohms into 4ohms) and taking your watt rating in half.
    and i'm not any where neer ignorant.
    thanks for your time i'd like to find somebody competent to talk to
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited December 2001
    aren't you the one whp replied to my post??..........yeah, you are. so that means........? i didnt come to you? hmmmmmmmmm
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited December 2001
    you are correct i am only running 4 ohms; my mistake. but i dont agree with the rms info you gave. ive also had my amp hooked up to a 200 pioneer and mtx amp which is less than the claimed peak power of the gnx124 and it sounded great and so does my pyramid amp at both a claimed 400 and 800 watts. so please explain if you find me competent enough to comprehend. thanx
  • blu_viper
    blu_viper Posts: 18
    edited December 2001
    what would you like me to explain? the fact that peak power has nothing to do with what the power of the sub can handle or the fact that a higher watt amp will have less distortion than a lower watt amp?
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited December 2001
    both of those are related to eachother (for example; youre not going to hook up a 1000 watt amp to 200 watt sub are you?) a so go ahead and explain both......you got it now? and one question. why does it get distorted if you have a lower watt amp hooked up to it? explain that so i might understand because once again ive had my 400 watt peak power gnx124 which is capable of about 1200 watts hooked up to a 200 watt pioneer from walmart. that sounded fine, actually it sounded great. thanx again

    scott
  • blu_viper
    blu_viper Posts: 18
    edited December 2001
    if you hook up a 1000 watt amp to a 200 watt sub then you will be able to set the amp to amplify the power up to 200 watts creating a clean sound coming from an amp that has absolutly no problem supplying 200 watts although if you hook up a 200 watt amplifier to a 200 watt sub then the amp will have to struggle to push 200 watts. basically if you can push 200 lbs. maxed out than it will be hard to do although if you have someone that can push 1000 lbs than it will be no problem for them to push 200 lbs.
    i don't know as to whether or not i said this earlier but you might be able to hear the bass just fine but your sub will be feeling distortion therefore wearing it down quicker and making it easier to blow in the future. if you would like you can contact someone from polk and ask them what they think and i would imagine that they will say about the same thing
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited December 2001
    theoretically thats great i understand what youre saying. but i know that ive had my sub hooked up to a 200 watt amp and it had no problem with distortion or overheating or overload and it was a cheap pioneer. so what does all that have to do with my setup and the gnx124?
  • blu_viper
    blu_viper Posts: 18
    edited December 2001
    Honestly i was just trying to keep some idiot that doesn't know anything about car subs from buying it for neer full price and then having it blown due to the fact that you did not set it up correctly
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited December 2001
    well thanx anyways but i think i can handle explaining things to the "idiots that are interested in my sub". peace out

    scott
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited December 2001
    Can't we all just get along? Actually the first guy that responded and was scared off was (I think wanted a powered home theater sub) and you are selling a raw car sub. Thats pretty funny. Later:p
  • doorbell
    doorbell Posts: 30
    edited December 2001
    Wasn't scared off but realized the flaky idiot was playing me and knew what I wanted. You are right, I wanted a home theather sub and made that very plain, PSW 350. Lesson learned.
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited December 2001
    ummm i said up front that i was not familiar with the sony subs. i am definately not familiar with home audio subs. so you should consider redirecting that insult if it is indeed aimed at me. heres an idea try that one on a mirror because there is no flaky idiot here claiming that a car sub is what you are indeed looking for. god ignorant people suck! thanx again.

    scott
  • jollygreenjyunt
    jollygreenjyunt Posts: 3
    edited December 2001
    I'm interested in buying your sub for no more than $80, but you've gotta convince me that it isn't damaged from your running it on a crappy walmart amp. Capish
  • THOMAS2
    THOMAS2 Posts: 1
    edited December 2001
    I WOULD BE INTERSESTED IN YOUR SUB.EMAIL ME @ THOMAS2@YADTEL.NET WITH POSIBLY A PHONE # TO CONTACT YOU AT!!!
  • polkaudiosupra101
    polkaudiosupra101 Posts: 48
    edited December 2001
    if you read the first few messages you will discover that i am not selling a used sub but a brand new gnx124 subwoofer that includes insurance that is good for the next 20 months at any circuit city. if you have any questions please respond to this message or email me at frwhtresn@aol.com thank you,


    scott
  • doorbell
    doorbell Posts: 30
    edited December 2001
    You are right. Ignorant people do suck and can't spell words, either.
  • alanhuhn
    alanhuhn Posts: 3
    edited May 2005
    i have 4 gnx 124's in power acustic home speaker boxes. they are bitchen when they are hooked up wright. ( 2700 watts of pure fisher audio ) its the only way to listen to them. i will sell the hole system for $3000. if you are interested e_mail me at lil_dork99@yahoo.com. sorry for the spelling im not that good at it.


    peace, alan:D
  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    edited May 2005
    Why do car audio people always quote the peak power? My system has 10,000 watts, with 44% THD at 1khz!! Yea man, awesome...
  • goingganzo
    goingganzo Posts: 2,793
    edited May 2005
    hey i am not a good speller but i am informed. and seccond some people dont know what things are i had a good laff at this thread.but i will lay it down for the lay peeps.
    sub is rated in ohms
    amp has peak power and rms witch is .707 of peak and it ialso has average wotch is .6 something it has ben a long time sence i had my classes on this.

    a sub is rated in thermal power with is the power it can run off of and not over heat. with is in rms. but that is not the same as the power it takes to botom out the sub.

    now the box will dertermane how much power a sub can handle befor botoming out.
  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited May 2005
    Originally posted by Airplay355
    Why do car audio people always quote the peak power? My system has 10,000 watts, with 44% THD at 1khz!! Yea man, awesome...
    because it looks more impressive that way. Plus, I love kids spatting off about knowledge that they obviously have no clue about. Everything from 4 ohm subs handling 2 ohm loads (hahaha), Pyramid amps pushing 800w (not even if it was struck by lightning), to a fisher home amp pushing 2700w (that has to be the absolute most efficient amp ever created). Oh well, I bet if you hooked it up to my ****, it'd still hammer. My butt has mad power!!!
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.