DIY Shielded power cable
sTiLlLeArNiNg
Posts: 805
Hello again everyone!
I finally got around to finishing my shielded power cable's so i thought i would share I made 3 set's :eek: 1 for my AVR, 1 for my xpa5 and 1 for my LCD :cool:
Tools used: Wire cutter/stripper, box cutter, helping hand's, lighter, phillip's screw driver, soldering iron and a heat gun
Please note that whenever building cable's try to make them directional, for example: Most cable's have text on the sleeve so what i like to do is have the signal path following the text So in this case i started the build on the male IEC end with the text flowing to the female end. Sorry i'm not very good at explaining thing's but i hope it help's
Part's used: Belden 83802 shielded power cable, Oyaide style IEC connector's (c079 & p079), 16g tinned MIL spec hook up wire, Dayton 4% silver solder, 3/8" Techflex and lastly 1/2" 3:1 heatshrink. All Component's have been deep cryo treated for improved charecteristic's. I started out with 15ft of the Belden and cut to length as needed.
Some pic's of the process, they are pretty self explanatory but if you have any question's just ask
Thank's for looking
I finally got around to finishing my shielded power cable's so i thought i would share I made 3 set's :eek: 1 for my AVR, 1 for my xpa5 and 1 for my LCD :cool:
Tools used: Wire cutter/stripper, box cutter, helping hand's, lighter, phillip's screw driver, soldering iron and a heat gun
Please note that whenever building cable's try to make them directional, for example: Most cable's have text on the sleeve so what i like to do is have the signal path following the text So in this case i started the build on the male IEC end with the text flowing to the female end. Sorry i'm not very good at explaining thing's but i hope it help's
Part's used: Belden 83802 shielded power cable, Oyaide style IEC connector's (c079 & p079), 16g tinned MIL spec hook up wire, Dayton 4% silver solder, 3/8" Techflex and lastly 1/2" 3:1 heatshrink. All Component's have been deep cryo treated for improved charecteristic's. I started out with 15ft of the Belden and cut to length as needed.
Some pic's of the process, they are pretty self explanatory but if you have any question's just ask
Thank's for looking
Media Room 7.1
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Post edited by sTiLlLeArNiNg on
Comments
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Nice work again sir,,I would be interested in how you perceive the performance/sound change. One thing,,what is the short piece of green wire for?JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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I think the green wire is for the shield connection.At the IEC end if Im not mistaken.SDA-2BTL with custom IC
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So how does it sound?
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disneyjoe7 wrote: »So how does it sound?
Would also like to know of any noticeable improvements
I'm contemplating making my own power cables, utilizing this IEC and one of these plugs from Marinco. Also thought about their hospital grade version here.Truck setup
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disneyjoe7 wrote: »So how does it sound?
Hey,, I've already asked that Steve,, are you trying to run your post count up before the holidays? :)JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
george daniel wrote: »Nice work again sir,,I would be interested in how you perceive the performance/sound change. One thing,,what is the short piece of green wire for?
Thank you george! It was VERY fun to make my own cable's and i will enjoy making more in the future I will answer the green wire & sound Q further down in this post since a couple people askedI think the green wire is for the shield connection.At the IEC end if Im not mistaken.
The green wire is indeed for the shield, it "power's up" the shield lol
This particular Belden cable is double shielded with 100% coverage using both a mylar foil and a copper braid, but for added "performance" i had them drain to the ground in the wall circuit
You want the EFI/RFI draining to the wall circuit, not into the equipment. Therefore it is on the male enddisneyjoe7 wrote: »So how does it sound?
TBH i have less than 50hrs on the cable set plus my audiophile "lingo" is lacking lol but i'll give 'er a go
These were noticed immediately after installation: The cable's are very "clear" and "transparent". I have noticed a lower "nosie floor" and since swapping over, my LCD also has slightly better picture quality! In short i don't think they add or remove anything from the sound just that they clean thing's up and as a result make thing's more audible....
I answered the sound quality Q in the response above your post Those Marinco connector's are basically the same thing as the one's i used save for a few difference's, they are highly regarded connector's and will work well. Use hospital grade part's whenever possible What are you planning to use as cable?
My next DIY jobbie is to bring the 20a service in my kitchen to my media room with a six outlet "break out" box I think i'll get a really nice improvement when i do this because i came to find out that ALL of the bedroom outlet's (3 bedroom's & minimum 4 outlet's per room) run off of the same 15a breaker!! DOH!! :mad:
There are two 20a breaker's in my panel One 20a breaker is for the fridge/stove and the other is not powering anything I just need to figure out what exactly i need so i can git 'r done :cool: Anyone with ideas of how i can go about doing this safely please let me know!
Thank youMedia Room 7.1
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Not sure when, it's not on my must-have's list but I'll get around to it unless you want to build them for me?
Now that I think about it, I'd attach a ferrite clamp on the female end of a cord. What do you think?Truck setup
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Not sure when, it's not on my must-have's list but I'll get around to it unless you want to build them for me?
Now that I think about it, I'd attach a ferrite clamp on the female end of a cord. What do you think?
I can build you a set if you like, not a problem Let me know what length/s you need and if you want shielded/non-shielded, cryod /non-cryod, 2 conductor wire/3 conductor wire/Star quad, standard connector's or Oyaide/Wattgate style, flex tech or no tech flex, etc, etc.... We can work out a price
Ferrite's have no place on a cable IMHO. I truly think they can change the "harmonic's" in certain application's. Manufacturer's/OEM's use them because they don't want to spend the cash on the proper shielded cable'sMedia Room 7.1
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sTiLlLeArNiNg wrote: »I can build you a set if you like, not a problem Let me know what length/s you need and if you want shielded/non-shielded, cryod /non-cryod, 2 conductor wire/3 conductor wire/Star quad, standard connector's or Oyaide/Wattgate style, flex tech or no tech flex, etc, etc.... We can work out a price
Ferrite's have no place on a cable IMHO. I truly think they can change the "harmonic's" in certain application's. Manufacturer's/OEM's use them because they don't want to spend the cash on the proper shielded cable's
If you're talking ferrites on shielded cables, then yea that's a bit of a waste but it can help unshielded/poorly shielded cables at the source of output. That's just stuff I learned at in class couple years ago, measuring noise/etc. on a power cable with/without the use of a ferrite clamp and the differences between cables as stated above.
I'd like to grab something for my amp, shielded since there are several components/wires around the damn thing but the plug looks to be a bit too big to be used on my amp.
Also, I'd consider one for the subwoofer....non-shielded is ok but the cable doesn't have a ground although it is polarized.Truck setup
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[QUOTE...Now that I think about it, I'd attach a ferrite clamp on the female end of a cord. What do you think?[/QUOTE]For the LCD it would worthwhile but useless for audio, right?DARE TO SOAR:
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I will state again: IMHO a ferrite core has no place on a cable. If you have/use the proper cable the need for a ferrite core is NOT required
Freddy if you are serious about the cable's send me a detailed PM with what you want/need and i'll get back to you ASAP and we can work something outMedia Room 7.1
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Yeah I am, but not yet since I don't have extra funds otherwise I'd be doing it myself. I do get where you'd use the Dayton silver solder because the temperatures here aren't a concern, I don't often build cables at all so it's what I just happen to have around.Truck setup
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Why buy something if you have it laying around already?
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You know,,I really enjoyed building/making power cables also.My wife helped me make the Bob Crump DIY cable, similar to yours,,different grade/type Belden. I think I'm gonna try to make a few using the grade of Belden that you have.If you would,,please post your impression in this thread,,say,,in about 30 days if you don't mind.One question,, could you have connected the "drain" to the ground directly?Thanks in advance,,and enjoy the cables.:)
BTW-- can you post where/who you bought the cable and component paarts from?JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
Where did you got that wire?
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
FOI, I wonder if full shielding (using metal shielded plug) would be benificial for such project versus partial shielding (which is applied here by mean of a ground plug instead of a fully shielded plug)? I am asking because dealing with home audio systems might be a little different then the typical set-up we had in the military. The goal is still the same, trying to avoid any RF in and/or out but who knows, maybe some I don't see here?
Now, from what I am reading, you are connecting your shield at the plug ground alone in order for the shield to act as an antenna thus returning any unwanted RF to plug ground, am I correct? This would also differ from full shielding (both end must connected)... Can you explain the major difference(s)/benefits between the 2 process?
Thanks;
TKDARE TO SOAR:
Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life -
Im curious about shielding and if I really need a saftey ground for my digital front end or not.I look at VH Audio DIY AC Power Cables and see that the shield is only connected at the IEC end and a saftey ground to both ends.Can you elaborate on his designs.Thank you.>>http://www.venhaus1.com/diymains.htmlSDA-2BTL with custom IC
Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
Harman Kardon T-55c TT
DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre -
Im curious about shielding and if I really need a saftey ground for my digital front end or not.I look at VH Audio DIY AC Power Cables and see that the shield is only connected at the IEC end and a saftey ground to both ends.Can you elaborate on his designs.Thank you.>>http://www.venhaus1.com/diymains.html
If your component doesn't require safety ground (IE: most CD/DVD players "flavor #3" would allow you to hook your shield to the house safety ground through a 3 prongs male.
Basically, the type of cable used by your gear will dictate if #2 or #3 is appropriate, right?
Hummm, very interesting notes on ferrite useNotes:
* Try experimenting by using a ferrite clamp on the safety ground only at the load end (the end with the IEC). Many people have suggested that use of Ferrites help filter out garbage in power cords, but I have found that Ferrites constrict the dynamics of the system and they ADD inductance to the hot/neutral (rather than lower it- which is our objective). By putting the ferrite on the safety ground only, we are able to attenuate any unwanted nasties that try to make it into the component via the ground. (you don't need to do this tweak with "Flavor #3", because the ground is not coupled to the component)
* If you have the experience, and want to "trick out" your AC even more, I would suggest going to Magnan's site and read tweak #2: "Do-it yourself approach to AC line filtering". Lots of good stuff on his site. I especially like the idea of using ferrite toroids on other AC cords around the house to keep garbage from being dumped into the lines!
Cheers!
TKDARE TO SOAR:
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very nice work.Living Room Rig:D
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First i'd like to say that i REALLLY REALLY suck at explaining stuff, that is why i posted only pic's in my first post but i'll try my bestgeorge daniel wrote: »You know,,I really enjoyed building/making power cables also.My wife helped me make the Bob Crump DIY cable, similar to yours,,different grade/type Belden. I think I'm gonna try to make a few using the grade of Belden that you have.If you would,,please post your impression in this thread,,say,,in about 30 days if you don't mind.One question,, could you have connected the "drain" to the ground directly?Thanks in advance,,and enjoy the cables.:)
BTW-- can you post where/who you bought the cable and component paarts from?
Doing lil' project's like these are always fun IMO and i look forward to doing more as time goes on I don't think i came across the "Bob Crump" cable build TBH?
My gear only has 2 pin male IEC (equipment side) so in my case it made no sense to go with the 3 conductor wire OR to connect the shield to a dead pin on that end, that's why i went with 2 conductor and ran the shield out through the ground pin on the socket. Maybe there would be a benefit to connecting the shield on the opposite end i don't know The idea is to "catch" the "dirty" EMI/RFI signal's and get them away from the wire's that are directly connected to the equipment
I thought I had already posted but my source but i'll post again everything was sourced from TakeFiveAudio here in Ontario, Canadadisneyjoe7 wrote: »Where did you got that wire?
Please read my first replyFOI, I wonder if full shielding (using metal shielded plug) would be benificial for such project versus partial shielding (which is applied here by mean of a ground plug instead of a fully shielded plug)? I am asking because dealing with home audio systems might be a little different then the typical set-up we had in the military. The goal is still the same, trying to avoid any RF in and/or out but who knows, maybe some I don't see here?
Now, from what I am reading, you are connecting your shield at the plug ground alone in order for the shield to act as an antenna thus returning any unwanted RF to plug ground, am I correct? This would also differ from full shielding (both end must connected)... Can you explain the major difference(s)/benefits between the 2 process?
Thanks;
TK
I cannont comment on the first part of your post TK as i am really not knowledgeable enough to do so, it may be beneficial but honestly i think using something similar to what i have used here will work well enough for audio application. You being an electrical engineer/tech would know MUCH MUCH more than me ;)I'm pretty shure the military application is more concerned with full/total shielding as the use's are more critical.
For the second part of your post yes the goal is to have the shielding on the cable act as an antennae and draw the EFI/RFI out and send them out through the ground pin on the male end and into the wall. To be completely honest i am not an electrical engineer and i could not fully answer this part of your question but if you read part of my first reply in this post you will see why i chose to go with this method in MY application. To clarify the Belden cable i used has a 100% coverage mylar foil shield and an 85% coverage braided shield plus the teflon casing so IMHO it is quite good, if it was in 10g i think it would be that much better
Hey TK what are your thought's on cryogenically treated component's? I beleive the theory behind it It's supposed to demagnitize the metal and improve overall charecteristic's IIRCIm curious about shielding and if I really need a saftey ground for my digital front end or not.I look at VH Audio DIY AC Power Cables and see that the shield is only connected at the IEC end and a saftey ground to both ends.Can you elaborate on his designs.Thank you.>>http://www.venhaus1.com/diymains.html
As i previously mentioned a couple time's i am not an electrical engineer or electrician, i am simply an enthusiast with a great interest for DIY project's and a lot of tool's/spare time lol So i like to try and keep buisy Sorry i can not elaborate any more than i have already
To be honest i took my inspiration from the project's posted at VH audio, same link you posted I read through them and a few other post's on the web concerning/regarding wire's/cable's. I also got some good info on cable's from our fello Polkie DarqueKnight I then proceeded to contact the local DIY supplier and got confirmation on what i wanted to do and needed to complete the job, ordered up the part's and voila!TouchOfEvil wrote: »very nice work.
Thank you
Here is another link with some good info about cable theory/charecteristic's/properties whatever you want to call it http://www.audioquest.com/pdfs/aq_cable_theory.pdf Big thank's goes out to DarqueKnight for the helping word's and link to the audioquest .pdfMedia Room 7.1
Sharp lc37d64u | Sanus vmsab-03 | Sonax ZX8680 | Yamaha htr-6290b | Emotiva xpa1 x 2 & xpa5 | RTiA 9 & 7 | CSiA 6 | FXiA 6 | Sanus NF30B-03 | Velodyne dls-3750r | Dual 505-3 m97xe | Monster avs2000/hts5100
HTPC
Intel e5300 | Asus p5q DLX | LG ch08 BD | OCZ 4g reaper2 | WD 1TB | Sapphire 4890 VaporX 1g | Asus Xonar HDAV 1.3 | OCZ modXtreme 700w | Antec Fusion remote MAX
A fool and his money are easily parted
I don't drink Koolaid
Need some cable's? Just ask