DB840 sub in LSI15's replace the stock 8"driver!!!!!

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Comments

  • chamontchamont Posts: 22
    edited November 2009
    I'm surprised you even got it in the cabinet with that thick piece of rubber around the speaker. :) It's probably fine as-is. Personally, I'd take the rubber thing off.

    I just used the existing four screw holes in the cabinet, and left the other four on the woofer empty. Using all eight seemed total overkill.
  • TouchOfEvilTouchOfEvil Posts: 989
    edited November 2009
    PSOVLSK wrote: »
    I got mine in on Monday and hooked them up, but I must have done something wrong. I forgot about removing the rubber gasket, but it stills seems to fit just fine. I moved my hand all around each driver and I don't seem to be losing any air. Should I just leave well enough alone, or should I go back in and remove the rubber seal and make my own gasket? Also, did you guys use screw in every hole in the new driver or just use the screw you took out of the old driver?

    Haven't had a chance to break it in and really crank it up, but the bass at lower volume levels does seem to be improved. Maybe it's just that way because it's what I want to hear, but it does seem tighter and deeper.

    Thanks for your help guys. I'm hopeful that this will be one of my best and least expensive mods.

    If it's not leaking any air i'd leave it alone. I couldn't even get mine to setup with the rubber seal, guess your better at this stuff than i am lol.
    Anyway i used 8 screws simply because i had them. If your not leaking any air then i see no reason to worry about it as the 4 screws should do the job.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 3,543
    edited November 2009
    If it's not leaking any air i'd leave it alone. I couldn't even get mine to setup with the rubber seal, guess your better at this stuff than i am lol. Not a chance of that:D
    Anyway i used 8 screws simply because i had them. If your not leaking any air then i see no reason to worry about it as the 4 screws should do the job.

    With me being not very handy and two of you saying you had to take the rubber seal off, I took the rubber seal off.

    Doesn't seem to have made a difference, but I certainly feel better about it.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • TouchOfEvilTouchOfEvil Posts: 989
    edited November 2009
    PSOVLSK wrote: »
    With me being not very handy and two of you saying you had to take the rubber seal off, I took the rubber seal off.

    Doesn't seem to have made a difference, but I certainly feel better about it.

    Did you use mortite when you installed them? If so it could explain it not leaking any air even with it on. Otherwise no idea.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 3,543
    edited November 2009
    Did you use mortite when you installed them? If so it could explain it not leaking any air even with it on. Otherwise no idea.

    No, I haven't found any yet. I can't tell that I'm leaking any air, but I'm still going to get some and use it just for peace of mind.

    Thanks for the heads up on this mod and for your great write up about your experience. I think I'm going to be very happy with the end results once they're broken-in.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • chamontchamont Posts: 22
    edited November 2009
    Last night I started pulling my drivers out to install No Rez to the inside of my case.

    Earlier in this thread I mentioned that I couldn't find Mortite, so I got some generic "tape caulk" from Lowes. So last night I unscrewed my new DB840, but that sucker was glued in there so tight that I couldn't get it out!

    Holy **** (are we allowed to cuss on this forum?) I thought.

    So I let it sit face down overnight, hoping that the weight of the driver would pull it away from the cabinet. Luckily, it did come out some time during the night. But now I have a huge mess of caulk all around the rim of my cabinet. Ugh.

    In hindsight now, I think I should have used the thin rubber gasket that was on the old driver. I'm not sure about Mortite, but the stuff I used is pretty much the same as using caulk in a bottle. It's strong.

    FYI....
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,712
    edited November 2009
    Mortite wouldn't do that.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 3,543
    edited November 2009
    chamont wrote: »
    Last night I started pulling my drivers out to install No Rez to the inside of my case.

    Earlier in this thread I mentioned that I couldn't find Mortite, so I got some generic "tape caulk" from Lowes. So last night I unscrewed my new DB840, but that sucker was glued in there so tight that I couldn't get it out!

    Holy **** (are we allowed to cuss on this forum?) I thought.

    So I let it sit face down overnight, hoping that the weight of the driver would pull it away from the cabinet. Luckily, it did come out some time during the night. But now I have a huge mess of caulk all around the rim of my cabinet. Ugh.

    In hindsight now, I think I should have used the thin rubber gasket that was on the old driver. I'm not sure about Mortite, but the stuff I used is pretty much the same as using caulk in a bottle. It's strong.

    FYI....

    This might be reason enough for me to leave well enough alone:p

    But based on Face's post, maybe not.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • TouchOfEvilTouchOfEvil Posts: 989
    edited November 2009
    Mortite is very easy to work with and nothing like you mentioned in a tube.
    It's a solid but workable and does a great job.
    Of course if you don't have any air leaks you can always just go with it i guess.
    On mine i could feel and hear the leaks so i had to use the mortite on them.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 3,543
    edited December 2009
    I've had pretty much the same experience as the others who have posted about this mod. Deeper, tighter bass. Nothing earth shattering, but a very nice improvement...especially for the price I paid.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • dorokusaidorokusai Posts: 25,100
    edited December 2009
    Glad to hear you're having fun TOE. I mentioned this mod a couple years ago but nobody paid attention so I just stayed in my own little world.
  • m00npiem00npie Posts: 704
    edited December 2009
    dorokusai wrote: »
    Glad to hear you're having fun TOE. I mentioned this mod a couple years ago but nobody paid attention so I just stayed in my own little world.

    I listened... I was just too lazy to do it.
  • TouchOfEvilTouchOfEvil Posts: 989
    edited December 2009
    dorokusai wrote: »
    Glad to hear you're having fun TOE. I mentioned this mod a couple years ago but nobody paid attention so I just stayed in my own little world.

    I'm glad you mentioned it again when you did. This was a nice easy mod and with a low price tag to boot. Very worthwhile IMO. Thanks for the heads up again.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
  • tcrossmatcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2010
    I've never opened up my LSi15's (or really any speaker, for that matter). What specifically is involved in changing out these drivers?
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 3,543
    edited January 2010
    Preface: This answer is coming from a guy who wants to upgrade the XO's in my 15's, but I'm afraid of messing something up. In other words, I'm no handyman, electrician, etc.

    This is an EASY mod.
    1) Lay the speaker on it's side, woofer side up.
    2) Take off the woofer grill, speaker cover, whatever you want to call it. (This was arguably the hardest part for me).
    3) Unscrew the 4 screws holding in the woofer
    4) Unhook the internal wires connected to the woofer and take the woofer out.
    5) Hook the wires you just unplugged to the dB840.
    6) Drop the dB840 in the opening. (Don't forget to take off the gasket and add mortite)
    7) Screw in the new woofer (Not too tight though or you'll break off the screw)
    8) Replace the woofer grill.
    9) Set speaker back upright and enjoy. But realize you'll be more impressed in a few weeks when they start to sound even better.

    Others who have done this, did I leave anything out?
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • mantismantis Posts: 14,628
    edited January 2010
    I'd love to hear a pair after all the upgrades. They are excellent speakers before you crack them open. The bass was always the problem on the 15's. It's not out of control for what you pay for the 15's it's an except able flaw.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • ohskigodohskigod Posts: 6,483
    edited January 2010
    hmmmm, how the hell did I miss this? I might try this, perhaps a project at Polkfest this year, I have a pair of 15's. I love how they sound so I never think of modding them, but i usually trust Doro's judgement in these audio things (though not for much else :) )
    Theater - Polk 9500 surround bar. simple elegant win
    2 Channel -
    Anthem Pre 2l, Jolida JD100 CD player, CAL Sigma DAC, Carver m4.0, Polk LSi9 w external modified Crossovers (thanks Trey!)
  • tcrossmatcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2010
    PSOVLSK wrote: »
    Preface: This answer is coming from a guy who wants to upgrade the XO's in my 15's, but I'm afraid of messing something up. In other words, I'm no handyman, electrician, etc.

    This is an EASY mod.
    1) Lay the speaker on it's side, woofer side up.
    2) Take off the woofer grill, speaker cover, whatever you want to call it. (This was arguably the hardest part for me).
    3) Unscrew the 4 screws holding in the woofer
    4) Unhook the internal wires connected to the woofer and take the woofer out.
    5) Hook the wires you just unplugged to the dB840.
    6) Drop the dB840 in the opening. (Don't forget to take off the gasket and add mortite)
    7) Screw in the new woofer (Not too tight though or you'll break off the screw)
    8) Replace the woofer grill.
    9) Set speaker back upright and enjoy. But realize you'll be more impressed in a few weeks when they start to sound even better.

    Others who have done this, did I leave anything out?

    Thanks for the directions. I'm having a heck of a time getting the grills off to even look around, but otherwise it sounds very easy to do. I might give it a shot.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 3,543
    edited January 2010
    tcrossma wrote: »
    ...I'm having a heck of a time getting the grills off to even look around...

    Honestly, it's probably the most difficult part of the whole process.

    I'd like to hear how others got the grill off. I hate to admit this, but I used an ice pick...VERY carefully. I worried about snagging the material, but I didn't. The only problem is that I got a couple of very small little scratches on the speaker. Probably only noticable to me, but it still iritates me a little.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • tcrossmatcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2010
    PSOVLSK wrote: »
    The only problem is that I got a couple of very small little scratches on the speaker. Probably only noticable to me, but it still iritates me a little.

    That's what I'm afraid of doing, which is probably why I'm having a hard time with it. I just can't seem to get any grip on the grill without also touching the wood panel, which risks marking it up. But I'm going to spend some more time on it soon and be a little more patient and see if I can make some progress.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • domflanedomflane Posts: 654
    edited January 2010
    Anyone have pictures of one of these upgrades? I would love to see what the DB's look like in that beautiful LSi cabinet. Also, a friend of mine has 15's and I could encourage him to rtry this upgrade/
    Home Theater
    RTiA5 - CSiA6 - FXiA6 - PSW650 - Pioneer Elite SC-55 - Carver AV-505 - Sony 46" 120Hz - Monster HP 2400 - Xbox 360 - Playstation 3
    2 Channel
    Polk RTA 15TL - Harman Kardon HK3485 - HK DVD48 - Signal Cable IC's and speaker cables
  • xcapri79xcapri79 Posts: 5,273
    edited January 2010
    tcrossma wrote: »
    That's what I'm afraid of doing, which is probably why I'm having a hard time with it. I just can't seem to get any grip on the grill without also touching the wood panel, which risks marking it up. But I'm going to spend some more time on it soon and be a little more patient and see if I can make some progress.

    I used the pointed ends of a pair of larger plastic ty-wraps. I slipped them in on the edges and eased out the grille fairlly easily. The plastic won't mark the wood or damage the grille.

    Some of my equipment includes the following:
    Adcom: GCD CD Player, GFP Preamp, GFA Amp; Audio-Technica: Turn Tables; Denon: HD Radio Tuners;
    Emotiva: XSP, XPA, UPA; RSP, RPA, ERC, Stealth; Focal: Chorus Speakers;
    Harman Kardon: Receivers; Jolida: Integrated Tube Amp; Marantz: Tuners;
    McIntosh: C Preamps, MA Integrated Amps, MX Processors, MC Amps, MHT, MCD CD Players, MR Receivers, LS Speakers;
    Mirage: OMD Speakers; MM and S Subwoofers; Parasound PHP Preamp, HCA Amp;
    Pioneer: SC AVRs, BDP Blu Ray Players;
    Polk Audio: LSi, LSiM, RTi, RTIA, RM, Signature, Monitor Speakers, DSW, PSW Subwoofers;
    Sony: HD Radio Tuners; Technics: SL Turntables, Equalizers; Yamaha: Tuners;
  • Jason_kJason_k Posts: 110
    edited January 2010
    I just bought a set of LSI 15's for Music and got to say I love them. But as like most I find the bass a little lacking, got my hand on the trigger to do this mod, just wondering about this mortite stuff, any links for this product? pics of this installion floating around?

    Thanks
  • TouchOfEvilTouchOfEvil Posts: 989
    edited January 2010
    Not sure of any links for the mortite, i found mine a my local hardware store. As for pics of the install i did not take any but it's so easy you really do not need them.
    If i get some spare time i may take the cover off this weekend and snap a pic of the new driver in there.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
  • Jason_kJason_k Posts: 110
    edited January 2010
    That would be great TouchEvil if its not too much trouble. Going to take a look in the hardware store tonite, its used for weather stripping right?, thats all google came up with. Also if i didn't I like the mod would it be easy to change back with the mortite on it.

    Thanks

    Just order the speakers, could't resist!
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 3,543
    edited January 2010
    Jason_k wrote: »
    Also if i didn't I like the mod would it be easy to change back with the mortite on it.

    I don't think you'll have to worry about that. Give it time though. I think if the improvement I have now would have been immediate, I would have considered it significant. I'd love to hear a stock pair vs. a pair that's had the new sub for a while.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • TouchOfEvilTouchOfEvil Posts: 989
    edited January 2010
    Jason_k wrote: »
    That would be great TouchEvil if its not too much trouble. Going to take a look in the hardware store tonite, its used for weather stripping right?, thats all google came up with. Also if i didn't I like the mod would it be easy to change back with the mortite on it.

    Thanks

    Just order the speakers, could't resist!

    Yes it would be easy to go back. The woofer would have a tighter seal and a little tougher to get out but you can do. I know because i pulled one after the fact and it was no big deal.
    Just remember to give the new woofers some break in time. It makes a big difference as you get more and more hours on them.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
  • tcrossmatcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited February 2010
    xcapri79 wrote: »
    I used the pointed ends of a pair of larger plastic ty-wraps. I slipped them in on the edges and eased out the grille fairlly easily. The plastic won't mark the wood or damage the grille.

    Does anyone have any other suggestions on how to get the grills off? Honestly, I've tried just about everything. There's zero space around the edge of the grill to slide anything in there, and the grill doesn't stick up enough to pry it off. I've tried just about everything short of cutting the cloth, tearing the cover off, and ordering two new ones. These grill covers are just on too damn tight!
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • FaceFace Posts: 14,712
    edited February 2010
    istockphoto7043008squee.jpg

    :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • hoosier21hoosier21 Posts: 4,387
    edited February 2010
    Jason_k wrote: »
    I just bought a set of LSI 15's for Music and got to say I love them. But as like most I find the bass a little lacking, got my hand on the trigger to do this mod, just wondering about this mortite stuff, any links for this product? pics of this installion floating around?

    Thanks

    http://www.conservationmart.com/p-81-mortite-45-foot-gray-rope-caulk-f-4.aspx

    try a little google in your life :)
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."
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