And on the 7th day, the Lord made a sick battery bank, and he was pleased...

PoweredByDodge

Specs (for the 5 battery bank):
450 Amp-Hours @ C/20 rate / 875 minutes Reserve Capacity @ 25A draw

Specs (for one battery):
- Mfg. = Johnson Controls, Inc. (Whitelabel AutoCraft)
- BCI Group (size, general spec) = 27
- Chemistry = standard lead acid
- Design = wet, serviceable.
- Class = Hybrid Deep Cycle (sponge lead plates on the order of 3x standard starting battery thickness, although not solid lead like a true deep cycle, as the additional surface area of the 'sponge' landscape provides starting amperage).
- CCA = 575 (marine cranking cycle duration = 1/2 automotive cranking cycle duration... realistic CCA in automotive terms ~ 400).
- RC = 175 minutes (at 25 amp constant load)
- AH = 90 @ C/20 rate (20 hr. discharge rate, ~82 @ 5 hr., per J.C.I.)
- Part No. = 27DC2
- Vendor = Parts America (Advance Auto, Checker, Kragen, Murray's)
- Cost = Pitifully cheap at $ 55 each, although terminals and fuse holders weren't. I had a mile of 1/0 laying around, so that was 'cheap as free'. Total out of pocket for the project (includes all batteries, materials to build rack and hold down means, and everything else) was around $450 with tax and all that jazz. Including materials from previous 1 to 2 battery conversion... that was likely another $250 (not including batteries).
- List Price = $ 72 (U.S.D.) each.
- Estimated Practical Cost = $ 1,850 (if you add up all batteries, all cable, all wire terminals, all fuse holders, all fuses, all rack materials, all materials to secure BCI 27 batteries in stock OEM BCI 65 underhood racks, zip-ties, electrical tape, heat rated wire loom, and other goodies). Admittedly, some of the job was already done, as I had converted to a 2 battery setup when I bought the truck a couple years ago. Estimated Cost is to go from single to 5, in one shot. Isn't it good to know people?

MacLeod

So what are you gonna use all this for now?

exalted512

Power his house.
-Cody

dorokusai

A steering column mounted auto-suck.

dudeinaroom

Now you just need to hook up a hydraulic pump, run a few hoses to the back, hook a hydraulic motor to the hoses, run a few fan belts off that to like 5 alternator and you'll bee good.

powerlord

Hey PBD nice clean setup man,I used to run 10 Trojan 8 volt batts at 16 volts and it made ten thousand watts very nicely!Have you done this before? If you have it shows.So what are you gonna drive with the bank?:)

dohcmark8

Thats insane. But in a good way.

Nice work!

exalted512

I have 3 of these going in my truck:
http://kinetikaudio.com/hc2400.asp
1 1800 in the front as well.
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

All it's pushing is:

2 MTX 81000D's at less than full power (lowest impedance is 3 ohms with the gain cut back, so about 1000 wrms each)
1 MTX Blue Thunder 754 bridged to the front at less than full power (around 200 x 2 or so)
1 MTX Blue Thunder 502 running 2 ohm stereo at about 130 x 2

When I'm driving around, a normal 2 battery setup with 4 caps (and stock 137 A alt) are plenty to keep me bumping. I can actually run the same output power off 12.5 V rather than 14 because I've got a pissload of headroom (as all of the amps are only at about 2/3 of their potential output power).

That being said, when I go to the drive in movies, I'm screwed... 2 hours of this **** and it's dead as a doornail.

So... I am putting 2 more subs in the bed, and moving the 4 6x9's in the bed upward... each amp will have its own toggle for the remote wire, so I can turn some off. When I'm going to do is also run a 40 A dual pole toggle for the 8100D's output. That way I can switch between 3 ohm 1 kw subs in the truck to 4 ohm 700 watt subs in the bed. Turn off the 754 amp pushing the interior highs... turn on the 502 amp pushing the exterior 6x9's in the bed. Now I'm all set for the drive in.

Total load while the key is off, at full power, is around 135 amps (which accounts for amplifier efficiency as well).

Now, considering only about 2/3 of 'music' or 'movie' soundtrack requires full power, that leaves me with 356 amps drawn over a 4 hour period... add in 20% reserve for safety... and that's 427 Amp Hours that I need to play my audio like a madman at the drive in.

I've got 450, so I'm kosher.

I've done 2 battery setups before, never a 5 unit job though. Although I've been hacking at this kind of **** for about 10 years now, and I'm finallyat a point where I do 'pretty' work as opposed to work that was electrically sound but not 'pretty'.

And yay for me, I graduated Friday (unless I failed that **** machine code class).

PoweredByDodge

PS -- AGM's are nice... very nice... but I couldn't afford six Optima D31T's at 225 bucks each.

black magic

That is a lot of power. nice job!

Toxis

PoweredByDodge wrote: »

That being said, when I go to the drive in movies, I'm screwed...

What is this? 1950? Drive in movie??? Plus, if you're going to a drive in, you better be getting screwed... wasn't that the whole point?

dohcmark8

Toxis wrote: »

Plus, if you're going to a drive in, you better be getting screwed... wasn't that the whole point?

:eek:

PoweredByDodge

www.transitdrivein.com

local buffalo, ny drive in - the coolest place to be me thinx.

nothing like spiderman 3 on the HUGE-A-MUNGO screen with a kilowatt of power pumping through your body and the ability to chain smoke the entire time.

exalted512

Heres my batteries



As soon as my buss bars are made, these things are going in.
-Cody

audiobliss

What year is that StingRay? And why is the front right fender well muddy?!

exalted512

Dont know and...dont know...
-Cody