My Install - False Floor

unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
edited January 2014 in Custom Fabrication
Background: I have very little experience in car audio & wood working, etc, but I think this has come out very impressive. I used to have an mtx 5400x amplifier running my entire car, but now I decided to go with an eclipse since my mtx broke. Here is a picture of how I used to have my mtx mounted at the top of my trunk.
amp.jpg 26.5K
Post edited by unrealii on

Comments

  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    This was a fairly nice setup as the amp was out of the way, but for the life of me, I could not get those wires to hide themselves. When the mtx went out, the eclipse was too big to go there. Had to go do the drawing board.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    This was a temporary location for my amp until I could figure out where to put it. This idea of a false floor really appealed to me. I decided to make it more permanent. However, in order to install this amp here, I would need to keep these issues in mind:
    • usability of trunk, I must be able to put stuff on top of it
    • must be able to use spare tire
    • must be firmly secured to prevent theft

    With a plan in my head, I started. I made a cardboard template of my spare tire well.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    After a decent fit, I transfered that cut to wood.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    I made the cut on the wood slightly larger than the cardboard so that I could cut notches in the wood to contour the unevenness of the sides of the well.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    Next, I measured and put railings on the side to protect the amp. Drilled holes for the plexiglass. Made one hole on each side for wire to go through.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    Using the trunk carpet as a template, I cut a piece of wood to fit the trunk. I made this cut about 2" larger in all directions so that I could have them overlap. I need to keep the trunk as flat as possible to maximize use as well as protect the wiring running underneath. This also makes it look nicer :)
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    Drilled holes in plexiglass and attached to amp/base assembly. I used a jig saw and a clean cut wood blade to cut the plexiglass to my size. Used two drill bits to make the holes. One to make a large base hole so that the head of the screw is flat. Second hole for the actual screw to go through to attach to base. Unfortunatly, I ended up pressing too hard while drilling on my 3rd to last hole and cracked it :mad: :mad: :mad:
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    I started measuring distances to keep the edges of the woodboard even. Finally, I screwed in some pieces of wood so that the board could rest against the amp/base and not slide around.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    ALL DONE!!! :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

    I started this monday night, finished it wednesday afternoon. I still have to carpet all of those panels. Right now I just put the factory carpet on top of everything and covered it up. It looks very nice and clean now, so I am VERY tempted to leave it as is.

    Please note, I did fabricate a lock down to prevent theft. It is not pictured for obvious reasons.

    Any questions, post em:D
  • PolkThugPolkThug Posts: 7,526
    edited July 2005
    Cool! How much for a new piece of plexi? I'd maybe add a cold cathode light and show that puppy off.
  • audioblissaudiobliss Posts: 12,633
    edited July 2005
    Very nice looking install, man. Has a very seamless and integrated kind of look. Congrats! The only thing I'd be worried about is that it doesn't appear to be getting a lot of ventilation. However, you've probably already checked that out.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited July 2005
    I paid $30 for that sheet, but I had cut it nearly in half. The left over piece is slightly smaller than the other piece, but might work. I have a few other things I need to finish on my car before I get back to this. I am going to put a new plexiglass there, but this time, I will spend more time on it and put Eclipse, Polk & Image Dynamics etches in it. I was thinking of installing a cathode in there, but I'm feeling lazy now. I have a power distro box near the amp, so we're good to go with power.

    I thought about ventilation, but when I had it on the temporary setup with the carpet on top, it had no problems. If I run into problems, I'll make some holes in the plexiglass.

    Thanks for all the comments.
  • exalted512exalted512 Posts: 10,747
    edited July 2005
    looks good!! how do you like the sound over the mtx?
    -Cody
  • swerveswerve Posts: 1,876
    edited July 2005
    that's awesome dood.
    great jorb
  • 1996blackmax1996blackmax Posts: 2,436
    edited July 2005
    Nice job. I have been thinking about redoing my trunk.
  • Getty17331Getty17331 Posts: 26
    edited February 2006
    Nice job, How strong is the false trunk? Can you still fill up the trunk if needed? I assume that's why you made the false bottom to still be able to use the trunk.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited March 2006
    yup, I've put suitcases, etc on top of it. So far so good. I would stand on it to see how tough it is if the plexiglass wasn't cracked.
  • Getty17331Getty17331 Posts: 26
    edited March 2006
    Thanks guy, I think I'm gonna try something like that in my Scion Xb in the spring.
  • VitalVital Posts: 747
    edited March 2010
    Sorry for bumping old thread but i'm looking for ways to install PA600.1, PA200.4 and PA500.4 in addition to Polk Audio db1212 (pictured below)
    Would still like to keep my "rear seat fold" option and spare tire (but not a priority, might just get rid of the tire)

    Since PA500.4 is freaking huge looks like false floor is my best option. This thread just gave a few ideas to chew on.

    Any advise/ideas/hints u guys can give me??
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited March 2010
    I'd say test fit everything. You've got a lot you're installing and you'll need to make sure everything fits before building. I made my templates out of cardboard which made it easier to cut the wood later on. Also, if you are looking for a false floor, you will also have to manage wires if you plan to have the ability to lift the amp assembly up to retrieve the spare tire.
  • VitalVital Posts: 747
    edited March 2010
    What wood should be used?
    I went to Lowes last night just to eyeball some mdf (among other small stuff)
    I knew it was on the heavy side but damn, not THAT heavy. A small piece of 3/4'' mdf shelve was probably heavier then my sub and the box it's in. I'm don't ever plan on racing in this car but don't want it to feel like there's always 3 passengers in it either.
  • -dave--dave- Posts: 11
    edited March 2010
    Looks good man! Nice install.
  • unrealiiunrealii Posts: 267
    edited March 2010
    Thanks Dave!

    The amp is mounted on particle board (1/2" I think). The panels I made to raise the rest of the floor to match the height of the amp is 1/4" fiber wood or something.
  • AgentAgent Posts: 65
    edited March 2010
    nice
  • VitalVital Posts: 747
    edited March 2010
    unrealii wrote: »
    I'd say test fit everything. You've got a lot you're installing and you'll need to make sure everything fits before building. I made my templates out of cardboard which made it easier to cut the wood later on. Also, if you are looking for a false floor, you will also have to manage wires if you plan to have the ability to lift the amp assembly up to retrieve the spare tire.

    Well, layed down some stuff to visualize what i'll look like. Boxes are abviously bigger then amps but with support beams and air space for ventilation and wires it looks about right.

    Here's what u see in the pic left to right bottom row:
    Rockford amp - PA500.4 - PA400.1

    Rockford is the same size as PA200.4 which will be in it's place
    PA500.4 stays
    PA400.1 is just a little smaller then PA600.1 which will go in there.

    I realized there's really not much space there to do what i wanted.
    Keep in mind i'd like to keep my spare, easy access to it and fold my rear seat so i could transport 10' 2x4s.

    Any ideas on what else i can do with all these amps and sub box???
  • Installer4lifeInstaller4life Posts: 256
    edited March 2010
    You might not need 3/4" MDF for the false floor. I use 1/2" as much as possible. If you need 3/4" wood then go with Birch plywood. Its half the weight or less and easy to work with. Doesn't make anywhere the amount of dust either. Of couse its more expensive but not too much.
  • VitalVital Posts: 747
    edited March 2010
    Vital wrote: »
    Well, layed down some stuff to visualize what i'll look like. Boxes are abviously bigger then amps but with support beams and air space for ventilation and wires it looks about right.

    Here's what u see in the pic left to right bottom row:
    Rockford amp - PA500.4 - PA400.1

    Rockford is the same size as PA200.4 which will be in it's place
    PA500.4 stays
    PA400.1 is just a little smaller then PA600.1 which will go in there.

    I realized there's really not much space there to do what i wanted.
    Keep in mind i'd like to keep my spare, easy access to it and fold my rear seat so i could transport 10' 2x4s.

    Any ideas on what else i can do with all these amps and sub box???

    Well, let's try uploadin pics one more time lol
    DSCF4234.jpg
    DSCF4235.jpg
  • custopper30custopper30 Posts: 256
    edited May 2013
    Very nice false floor. Work paid off!
  • jacks2startjacks2start Posts: 103
    edited January 2014
    great work
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