Possible blown speaker in sda

Sda 2a, possible messed up driver in right channel; ocassionally I get a pop sound from just one driver and if I fade the volume to the left channel so only the sda driver is active it briefly sends my amp into protection.
I also have monitor 10a, 7b, 5b; will any of those drivers act as a replacement?
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Comments

  • I'm pretty sure it's the left speaker on the right channel. That's where I hear the popping when that channel is active but when it's not active while I have it faded to the left I still believe it's the culprit? Is that possible? Is it still part of the circuit when I have balance all the way to the left?
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,113
    edited October 13
    Do you have a voice coil rub? What are you running it with? SDA2a is a 4ohm speaker and dips very low into the 3ohm range. They are receiver killers so if that is what you are driving them with I'm not in the least bit surprised.

    The older drivers are well know to slip magnets and they can trap the voice coil completely or just have a bad rub both are very bad. The mw 6510 is one of the worst for that from my experience.

    The inside drivers are the stereo drivers. The outside drivers are the dimensional drivers in the SDA circuit. You need a pretty good amp with good current delivery for those speaker's.
  • No voice coil rub, "receiver" is a 1982 pioneer A150 aka A80
  • I can drive the left channel as hard as I can take if the sda cable is unplugged. When the right channel is active is when I hear a pop which corresponds with the brief trip
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,113
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    No voice coil rub, "receiver" is a 1982 pioneer A150 aka A80

    Have you tried it on the other side to see if by chance you have toasted an output driver on the receiver? I can't stress enough how easily those speakers will do that when you play them at rock concert levels. They will try and gobble up all the current they can get which will kill parts in receivers
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    No voice coil rub, "receiver" is a 1982 pioneer A150 aka A80

    Have you tried it on the other side to see if by chance you have toasted an output driver on the receiver? I can't stress enough how easily those speakers will do that when you play them at rock concert levels. They will try and gobble up all the current they can get which will kill parts in receivers

    I haven't even tried it with only one channel connected, it's not even heavy low bass that is doing it, it's mid bass I think. I'm personally leaning towards one of the drivers being bad. Is there a spec sheet I can compare resistance readings with?

    I'm most interested if a monitor 10 driver is the same resistance/freq response so can can just swap and test.

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,113
    Nope they are completely different.

    3 MW 6501 1.47 5.96 N 3.25 E - 3N/M 7.75 Ohms 31 Hertz
    4 MW 6502 1.97 5.16 N 1.47 E - 3N/M 3.52 Ohms 44 Hertz
    5 MW 6503 1.82 5.24 N 3.55 E - 3N/M 6.54 Ohms 29 Hertz
    6 MW 6509 2.1 4.57 N 3.54 E - 3N/M 8.97 Ohms 30 Hertz
    7 MW 6510 1.39 6.32 N 3.41 E - 3N/M 6.57 Ohms 31 Hertz
    8 MW 6511 1.405 4.34 N 3.496 E - 3N/M 3.13 Ohms 29 Hertz
    9 MW 6512 1.905 4.99 N 1.588 E - 3N/M 3.466 Ohms 40 Hertz

    Get your read on.

    Low power cooks things faster than high power. Amps/receiver clipping will cook drivers not too much power.

    You still have not answered how loud you try and play them. I'm not familiar with that Pioneer but 95% of receivers just cannot cut it with the SDA2a. Trust me man been there done that. They will eat them for breakfast lunch and dinner or you'll cook parts on the speaker from power starvation.
  • I just hooked the left speaker to the right output and there's no popping sound at insane volume. I'm aware about weak amps clipping drivers, the pioneer is no slouch and handles 4 ohm and lower loads with ease.
    This issue is only happening at pretty loud volume but my test with the opposite speaker plugged into the right output has ruled out the amp as the culprit.
  • The amp in using. xgyko3rj29cf.jpg
    No other set of speakers have ever come close to tripping it at even louder volume.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,113
    I see no rating for 4 ohm speakers in that. Let alone those speakers get down to close to 2 ohm.
    If it handled low ohm speakers there would be ratings for that.
    Do you have the treble and bass turned up or at 0 flat? Over excursions make drivers pop.
    I'm sorry i feel something here is being over driven to extreme. I'm surprised that you are not having problems with the tweeter cutting out and the polyswitch activating at lower volumes than it should.
  • The amp does handle 4 ohms, it says so on the back and even has a switch for 4 ohms which I leave on 8-16 ohms for more current.
    If it was being cause by over driving the left channel would have done the same thing, no? i have the bass slightly increased which isn't affecting any other speaker when I swapped them around.
  • Thanks for trying but I'll wait for someone else to give their feedback. I was most interested in which drivers were in the 2a vs the monitor series, I came here asking that question as a time saver
  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,236
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Nope they are completely different.

    3 MW 6501 1.47 5.96 N 3.25 E - 3N/M 7.75 Ohms 31 Hertz
    4 MW 6502 1.97 5.16 N 1.47 E - 3N/M 3.52 Ohms 44 Hertz
    5 MW 6503 1.82 5.24 N 3.55 E - 3N/M 6.54 Ohms 29 Hertz
    6 MW 6509 2.1 4.57 N 3.54 E - 3N/M 8.97 Ohms 30 Hertz
    7 MW 6510 1.39 6.32 N 3.41 E - 3N/M 6.57 Ohms 31 Hertz
    8 MW 6511 1.405 4.34 N 3.496 E - 3N/M 3.13 Ohms 29 Hertz
    9 MW 6512 1.905 4.99 N 1.588 E - 3N/M 3.466 Ohms 40 Hertz

    Already got your answer above.
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • mlistens03 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Nope they are completely different.

    3 MW 6501 1.47 5.96 N 3.25 E - 3N/M 7.75 Ohms 31 Hertz
    4 MW 6502 1.97 5.16 N 1.47 E - 3N/M 3.52 Ohms 44 Hertz
    5 MW 6503 1.82 5.24 N 3.55 E - 3N/M 6.54 Ohms 29 Hertz
    6 MW 6509 2.1 4.57 N 3.54 E - 3N/M 8.97 Ohms 30 Hertz
    7 MW 6510 1.39 6.32 N 3.41 E - 3N/M 6.57 Ohms 31 Hertz
    8 MW 6511 1.405 4.34 N 3.496 E - 3N/M 3.13 Ohms 29 Hertz
    9 MW 6512 1.905 4.99 N 1.588 E - 3N/M 3.466 Ohms 40 Hertz

    Already got your answer above.

    Does that tell me which type is in each speaker? Maybe I'm missing it.

  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,236
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Nope they are completely different.

    3 MW 6501 1.47 5.96 N 3.25 E - 3N/M 7.75 Ohms 31 Hertz
    4 MW 6502 1.97 5.16 N 1.47 E - 3N/M 3.52 Ohms 44 Hertz
    5 MW 6503 1.82 5.24 N 3.55 E - 3N/M 6.54 Ohms 29 Hertz
    6 MW 6509 2.1 4.57 N 3.54 E - 3N/M 8.97 Ohms 30 Hertz
    7 MW 6510 1.39 6.32 N 3.41 E - 3N/M 6.57 Ohms 31 Hertz
    8 MW 6511 1.405 4.34 N 3.496 E - 3N/M 3.13 Ohms 29 Hertz
    9 MW 6512 1.905 4.99 N 1.588 E - 3N/M 3.466 Ohms 40 Hertz

    Already got your answer above.

    Does that tell me which type is in each speaker? Maybe I'm missing it.

    Actually your right, I don’t see where it says which is in which. But IIRC, the SDA 2a has the MW6510, and the Monitor 10a has the MW6503 (?).
    Micah

    Main system: Technics SL3200, Shure M97xE, Lafayette LR1100 for tuner, Hagerman Audio Labs Bugle 2 phono stage, NAD C352 integrated, Boston Acoustics VR 2, Boston PV500, generic ICs, and BJC Belden speaker cables.

    Desktop: Dell Precision 690 running iTunes, Yamaha RX-v665, Monitor Audio R90s, Velodyne VA-907, generic ICs and speaker cables.
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,494
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    I'm pretty sure it's the left speaker on the right channel. That's where I hear the popping when that channel is active but when it's not active while I have it faded to the left I still believe it's the culprit? Is that possible? Is it still part of the circuit when I have balance all the way to the left?

    The outside driver is the SDA driver, so if you are hearing sound from the inside driver of the right speaker when the balance is full left you have problem with the right speaker connections/wiring.

    You need to open up the speaker to see what's going on.

    Wiring key:
    Black or Blue is positive
    White or Green is negative

    Schematics are posted at the top of the Vintage Speaker section.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    I'm pretty sure it's the left speaker on the right channel. That's where I hear the popping when that channel is active but when it's not active while I have it faded to the left I still believe it's the culprit? Is that possible? Is it still part of the circuit when I have balance all the way to the left?

    The outside driver is the SDA driver, so if you are hearing sound from the inside driver of the right speaker when the balance is full left you have problem with the right speaker connections/wiring.

    You need to open up the speaker to see what's going on.

    Wiring key:
    Black or Blue is positive
    White or Green is negative

    Schematics are posted at the top of the Vintage Speaker section.

    With it faded I don't hear sound from the inner speaker, only the outer. When I have it balanced and cranking I hear a pop from the inner speaker (I think) it could be coming from the dimensional driver. In your opinion what's the worst That could happen if I temporarily use a driver from the monitor 10? They are different but seem similar enough in resistance.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,494
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    I'm pretty sure it's the left speaker on the right channel. That's where I hear the popping when that channel is active but when it's not active while I have it faded to the left I still believe it's the culprit? Is that possible? Is it still part of the circuit when I have balance all the way to the left?

    The outside driver is the SDA driver, so if you are hearing sound from the inside driver of the right speaker when the balance is full left you have problem with the right speaker connections/wiring.

    You need to open up the speaker to see what's going on.

    Wiring key:
    Black or Blue is positive
    White or Green is negative

    Schematics are posted at the top of the Vintage Speaker section.

    With it faded I don't hear sound from the inner speaker, only the outer. When I have it balanced and cranking I hear a pop from the inner speaker (I think) it could be coming from the dimensional driver. In your opinion what's the worst That could happen if I temporarily use a driver from the monitor 10? They are different but seem similar enough in resistance.

    Ok, but that's not what you stated originally.

    Anyway, let's say everything is wired correctly, the pop issue would be a weak driver suspension and that driver will need to be replaced with the correct MWxxxx driver model.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    I'm pretty sure it's the left speaker on the right channel. That's where I hear the popping when that channel is active but when it's not active while I have it faded to the left I still believe it's the culprit? Is that possible? Is it still part of the circuit when I have balance all the way to the left?

    The outside driver is the SDA driver, so if you are hearing sound from the inside driver of the right speaker when the balance is full left you have problem with the right speaker connections/wiring.

    You need to open up the speaker to see what's going on.

    Wiring key:
    Black or Blue is positive
    White or Green is negative

    Schematics are posted at the top of the Vintage Speaker section.

    With it faded I don't hear sound from the inner speaker, only the outer. When I have it balanced and cranking I hear a pop from the inner speaker (I think) it could be coming from the dimensional driver. In your opinion what's the worst That could happen if I temporarily use a driver from the monitor 10? They are different but seem similar enough in resistance.

    Ok, but that's not what you stated originally.

    Anyway, let's say everything is wired correctly, the pop issue would be a weak driver suspension and that driver will need to be replaced with the correct MWxxxx driver model.

    I probably made it confusing, I was questioning if that driver even though it wasn't being powered when balanced left was somehow still in series with the sda driver and could trip my amp.
    With it balanced left I don't hear the pop but it trips, when center balanced I hear the pop and it doesn't trip.
    Thanks for your help. :)

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,494
    edited October 13
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    I'm pretty sure it's the left speaker on the right channel. That's where I hear the popping when that channel is active but when it's not active while I have it faded to the left I still believe it's the culprit? Is that possible? Is it still part of the circuit when I have balance all the way to the left?

    The outside driver is the SDA driver, so if you are hearing sound from the inside driver of the right speaker when the balance is full left you have problem with the right speaker connections/wiring.

    You need to open up the speaker to see what's going on.

    Wiring key:
    Black or Blue is positive
    White or Green is negative

    Schematics are posted at the top of the Vintage Speaker section.

    With it faded I don't hear sound from the inner speaker, only the outer. When I have it balanced and cranking I hear a pop from the inner speaker (I think) it could be coming from the dimensional driver. In your opinion what's the worst That could happen if I temporarily use a driver from the monitor 10? They are different but seem similar enough in resistance.

    Ok, but that's not what you stated originally.

    Anyway, let's say everything is wired correctly, the pop issue would be a weak driver suspension and that driver will need to be replaced with the correct MWxxxx driver model.

    I probably made it confusing, I was questioning if that driver even though it wasn't being powered when balanced left was somehow still in series with the sda driver and could trip my amp.
    With it balanced left I don't hear the pop but it trips, when center balanced I hear the pop and it doesn't trip.
    Thanks for your help. :)

    Gotcha. That's a weird one. Swap the left speaker drivers with the right speaker to see if the issue you're having follows the drivers or stays with the right channel speaker.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    I'm pretty sure it's the left speaker on the right channel. That's where I hear the popping when that channel is active but when it's not active while I have it faded to the left I still believe it's the culprit? Is that possible? Is it still part of the circuit when I have balance all the way to the left?

    The outside driver is the SDA driver, so if you are hearing sound from the inside driver of the right speaker when the balance is full left you have problem with the right speaker connections/wiring.

    You need to open up the speaker to see what's going on.

    Wiring key:
    Black or Blue is positive
    White or Green is negative

    Schematics are posted at the top of the Vintage Speaker section.

    With it faded I don't hear sound from the inner speaker, only the outer. When I have it balanced and cranking I hear a pop from the inner speaker (I think) it could be coming from the dimensional driver. In your opinion what's the worst That could happen if I temporarily use a driver from the monitor 10? They are different but seem similar enough in resistance.

    Ok, but that's not what you stated originally.

    Anyway, let's say everything is wired correctly, the pop issue would be a weak driver suspension and that driver will need to be replaced with the correct MWxxxx driver model.

    I probably made it confusing, I was questioning if that driver even though it wasn't being powered when balanced left was somehow still in series with the sda driver and could trip my amp.
    With it balanced left I don't hear the pop but it trips, when center balanced I hear the pop and it doesn't trip.
    Thanks for your help. :)

    Gotcha. That's a weird one. Swap the left speaker drivers with the right speaker to see if the issue you're having follows the drivers or stays with the right channel speaker.

    Interesting, I swapped outputs on amp and it followed the speaker. Will swapping the actual drivers test the wiring/crossover?


  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,494
    Is your integrated a dual mono, non-common ground amp?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • It's a common ground, I even confirmed with a meter before I plugged these in for the first time. I'm gonna swap the drivers around, and maybe even be crazy and use a monitor 10 driver just to see for sure which driver is the culprit and to see if it's even a driver issue.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 40,494
    Ok, since it is common ground and the issue followed the swapping of the amp outputs that points to some sort of issue with the amp. I found a bit of info describing the topology, which I didn't exactly follow. I think something got lost in the translation, but it talks about a low output stage and a high output stage. Perhaps it is that topology which doesn't work well with SDA speakers.

    What happens when the SDA cable is disconnected?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • It followed the speaker not the amp outputs. If I plug the left speaker into the right output it's fine. If I plug the right channel into the left output it pops the same as it did on right output.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,113
    edited October 13
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    Thanks for trying but I'll wait for someone else to give their feedback. I was most interested in which drivers were in the 2a vs the monitor series, I came here asking that question as a time saver

    I told you that and gave you most all drivers that have been used.
    Here again the SDA2a used

    MW6510 in all positions

    so switch it out with the outside driver to see if it follows the driver.

    No your receiver DOES NOT do 4 ohm that switch is to limit current on 4ohm speakers to help keep the darned thing from going up in flames and toasting the output devices.
    I've stated more than once I'll state it again. Those SDA2a speakers START at 4 ohms but dip and stay into the low 3ohm range. So even if the receiver was rated at 4ohm it is NOT rated to deliver at 3ohm and less. That is a huge difference!

    All the information you need is on the back of the drivers in your speakers yet you have failed to pull any driver to see for yourself. As F1 stated it could be a seperated spider you need to pull drivers to see for yourself.

    The monitor 10 used mw6500 early production and later may of used mw6501 or 6503
    The 7 and 5 used mw mw6502 once again pull your drivers and see for yourself.

    Look I've had these speakers i know first had what they can do to receivers. If you want to use them in the receiver you need to keep the volume knob in check or bad things can happen. I've done it as i said been there done that.
    Also as F1 pointed out they may just not be compatible with that receiver.

    You asked for the driver information that is why i gave you the list of drivers and their respected impedance so you knew.
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    Thanks for trying but I'll wait for someone else to give their feedback. I was most interested in which drivers were in the 2a vs the monitor series, I came here asking that question as a time saver

    I told you that and gave you most all drivers that have been used.
    Here I'll spell it out for you again
    MW6510

    No your receiver DOES NOT do 4 ohm that switch is to limit current on 4ohm speakers to help keep the darned thing from going up in flames.
    I've stated more than once I'll state it again. Those SDA2a speakers START at 4 ohms but dip and stay into the low 3ohm range. So even if the receiver was rated at 4ohm it is NOT rated to deliver at 3ohm and less. That is a huge difference!

    All the information you need is on the back of the drivers in your speakers yet you have failed to pull any driver to see for yourself.

    The monitor 10 used mw6500 early production and later may of used mw6501 or 6503
    The 7 and 5 used mw mw6502 i believe ince again pull your drivers and see for yourself.

    You never told me which drivers were in the sda or in the monitor 10, I asked to save time instead of removing the drivers. You gave me a list of all the drivers Polk has used.
    All I wanted to know was which drivers were in specific speakers and you felt it necessary to tell me:

    Low power amps can clip (no ****)

    Which drivers in the speaker are sda and which are stereo. (original post I outlined that I knew which were the sda)

    I thanked you for you help and was waiting for someone else to chime in which they did.

    A nice person informed me of which drivers were in which models.

    This amp is rated for 4 ohms in Japan under the model A150, in America companies like to cover their asses which is also why that switch is even there, and it's not necessary to flip the switch to 4ohms when using 4ohm speakers.
    This amp can certainly handle intermittent dips and higher demand. It gets no warmer than any other amp I've ever used even after running the sda2a all day at high volume.
    Every 4 ohm speaker will fluctuate.





  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,113
    Polk used many different drivers in different productions of the monitor series. Between first production and last it could of been 3-4 different mw65xx numbers. You are going to need to pull drivers to see. You also never know if you bought them used someone could of put the wrong drivers in them as to most they all look the same yet can be vastly different in their frequency response.
  • pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Polk used many different drivers in different productions of the monitor series. Between first production and last it could of been 3-4 different mw65xx numbers. You are going to need to pull drivers to see. You also never know if you bought them used someone could of put the wrong drivers in them as to most they all look the same yet can be vastly different in their frequency response.

    That's a good point, you never know what someone else did. I'll pull them tonight and get eyes on them.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 11,113
    edited October 13
    dankHugzNY wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Polk used many different drivers in different productions of the monitor series. Between first production and last it could of been 3-4 different mw65xx numbers. You are going to need to pull drivers to see. You also never know if you bought them used someone could of put the wrong drivers in them as to most they all look the same yet can be vastly different in their frequency response.

    That's a good point, you never know what someone else did. I'll pull them tonight and get eyes on them.

    Thank you.
    I am not trying to be difficult here. But we can only do so much over the net the rest of the homework falls on you to help us to get the best answer for you.

    I have rebuilt and modified many polk SDA's and those SDA2a were my second set. I completely rebuilt the crossover i know them inside and out.


    Again they should be mw6510 in all positions.
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